Apparently there is variability in the amount of "flex" you might
experience when tapping the VFO A/B button. If you are concerned
about the degree of flex you experience, then here are two easy
"fixes" I threw together tonight. Both are very, well, ham-ish in
nature.
Please the links below.
This one shows the flex. Your flex may be less than seen here.
Notice how the "other" top row buttons move when I tap the VFO A/B
button. Make sure you have your speakers turned on. This is a video
of less than spectacular quality, but you'll get the idea.
http://picasaweb.google.com/dougzzz/K3FPFlexAnd here are the fixes. The first one uses the insulator from an
alligator clip I had in my junk box. Cheap and dirty...but it works
great.
The 2nd one uses some ordinary RG8A (PE not foam). It's kinda neat
because most of us have this around the shack already. The 4-40
hardware goes though the hole (already there) in the FP shield,
directly behind the REV button, and into the hole in the center of PE,
formerly occupied by the center conductor.
Here is the link. All still photos. I'm a better contester than
photographer. :-)
http://picasaweb.google.com/dougzzz/FPFlexFixesThe 3rd option is to use a "long" nylon screw going the hole in the FP
shield. I didn't have one around the house tonight, so I used what I
had.
So far, none of these are officially Elecraft-approved or sanctioned,
so YMMV. Be careful with the placement. The area right behind the
REV button has no exposed parts/circuitry that could be damaged.
Don't use metallic spacers! :-)
de Doug KR2Q
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