K3 KNOBS

In reference to the K3 knobs:
On my K3 one of the large AF/SUB split and one small RF/Sql/sub knob split. Elecraft quickly sent me a new set for each shaft.  SN 2223.
Evidently a bad batch.
Thanks,
Jerry, K4DZR
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[Tim Heasman]

Hi,

My advice is not to use the long lever end of the hex key, insert the long
end in the grub screw.

73

Tim

gm4lmh

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[WILLIS COOKE]

Posts like this are no doubt well intentioned and good advice in general.  For these knobs with built in stress cracks normal care is not adequate.  Use the short handle for leverage, just tighten barely enough that the knob does not slip on the shaft, expect the knob to fail while you are adjusting the knob at some point in the future.  If can keep spare knobs on hand.  Elecraft are taking steps to get us better knobs and I am confident they will succeed soon and do something that is appropriate, but it takes a while to accomplish these design changes.  I am sure they will let us know soon.

But don't assume that those of us who have had failures are ham-fisted klutzes who don't take normal precautions.  That could be the case sometimes, but certainly not the general situation in this case.

Willis 'Cookie' Cooke
K5EWJ


--- On Mon, 5/18/09, Tim Heasman <[hidden email]> wrote:

> From: Tim Heasman <[hidden email]>
> Subject: Re: [Elecraft] K3 KNOBS
> To: [hidden email]
> Date: Monday, May 18, 2009, 6:42 AM
> Hi,
>
> My advice is not to use the long lever end of the hex key,
> insert the long
> end in the grub screw.
>
> 73
>
> Tim
>
> gm4lmh
>
> ______________________________________________________________
> Elecraft mailing list
> Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft
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> Post: mailto:[hidden email]
>
> This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net
> Please help support this email list:
> http://www.qsl.net/donate.html

... [show rest of quote]

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[AC7AC]

CONTENTS DELETED

The author has deleted this message.

[Ken Kopp-3]

Ron, others ...

If the holes in the knobs were tapped with a "normal"
(tapered) tap, the threaded hole will be of slightly less
diameter near the "bottom" (shaft) end of the hole.  This
would tend to increase the likelihood of forcing the knob
to split.  There isn't enough room for a tapered tap to
go far enough through the set-screw hole to produce a
straight thread.  A "bottom" tap produces a straight-sided
hole even when there's not room for full travel of a tapered
tap..

Not that any of this would be useful information unless one
was installing a replacement knob and used a bottom tap
before installing.

One poster suggested using controls with shafts with flats
and push-on knobs.  Unless care is used or the depth of
the hole in the knob and the length of the control shaft is
carefully controlled, the knob is likely to end up rubbing
the panel and creating rings of worn-away paint.

73! Ken Kopp - K0PP
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