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K3 Macro toggle

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Stewart@twinwood

K3 Macro toggle

I need some help from those experienced in K3 macros.

What I want to do is:-

First press of say PF1
Turn ON DIGOUT1
Wait n mS
Turn ON TUNE

Second press of PF1
Turn OFF TUNE
Turn OFF DIGOUT1

i.e. How can you toggle a macro from a function key ?

T.I.A.

73
Stewart G3RXQ

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Val-12

Re: K3 Macro toggle

Stewart,

You can make a toggleable macros by SWT/SWH commands that emulate
pressing/holding the switches that normally control the given function. I
don't know what is DIGOUT1 and how is it turned on and off normally, but
TUNE is toggled by SWH16.

73, Val LZ1VB

>I need some help from those experienced in K3 macros.
>
> What I want to do is:-
>
> First press of say PF1
> Turn ON DIGOUT1
> Wait n mS
> Turn ON TUNE
>
> Second press of PF1
> Turn OFF TUNE
> Turn OFF DIGOUT1
>
> i.e. How can you toggle a macro from a function key ?
>
> T.I.A.
>
> 73
> Stewart G3RXQ
>

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Stewart@twinwood

Re: K3 Macro toggle

Val,
DIGOUT1 is an open collector line that is able to be controlled by the firmware.
It is also used to switch the external 6m pre-amp option.

I know that some of the K3 commands (like TUNE) can be toggled by a macro.
My question was how to implement toggling by a function switch to include commands
that do not have inherent toggling.

I suspect (given the number of replies) that this is not possible.

There have been a number of recent posts suggesting that the use of macros can
be used to correct some of the K3's H/W or F/W anomalies.

Macros, although powerful, do have their limitations...

73
Stewart G3RXQ

On Sun, 1 Jul 2012 09:01:52 +0300, Val wrote:

> Stewart,
>
> You can make a toggleable macros by SWT/SWH commands that emulate
> pressing/holding the switches that normally control the given function. I
> don't know what is DIGOUT1 and how is it turned on and off normally, but
> TUNE is toggled by SWH16.
>
> 73, Val LZ1VB
>
>
>>I need some help from those experienced in K3 macros.
>>
>> What I want to do is:-
>>
>> First press of say PF1
>> Turn ON DIGOUT1
>> Wait n mS
>> Turn ON TUNE
>>
>> Second press of PF1
>> Turn OFF TUNE
>> Turn OFF DIGOUT1
>>
>> i.e. How can you toggle a macro from a function key ?
>>
>> T.I.A.
>>
>> 73
>> Stewart G3RXQ
>>
>
> ______________________________________________________________
> Elecraft mailing list
> Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft
> Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm
> Post: mailto:[hidden email]
>
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Don Wilhelm-4

Re: K3 Macro toggle

Stewart,

What you are asking is not possible in one macro. You could do it with
two macros - one to turn it on and the other to turn it off.

73,
Don W3FPR

On 7/1/2012 3:00 AM, Stewart wrote:

Stewart@twinwood

Re: K3 Macro toggle

That's what I thought Don.

Unfortunately allocating 2 function switches or a Tap/Hold of 1
switch on the K3 is not really practical.

So much better if the F/W did it.

73
Stewart G3RXQ
On Sun, 01 Jul 2012 08:18:38 -0400, Don Wilhelm wrote:

> Stewart,
>
> What you are asking is not possible in one macro. You could do it with
> two macros - one to turn it on and the other to turn it off.
>
> 73,
> Don W3FPR
>
> On 7/1/2012 3:00 AM, Stewart wrote:
>> Val,
>> DIGOUT1 is an open collector line that is able to be controlled by the firmware.
>> It is also used to switch the external 6m pre-amp option.
>>
>> I know that some of the K3 commands (like TUNE) can be toggled by a macro.
>> My question was how to implement toggling by a function switch to include commands
>> that do not have inherent toggling.
>>
>> I suspect (given the number of replies) that this is not possible.
>>
>> There have been a number of recent posts suggesting that the use of macros can
>> be used to correct some of the K3's H/W or F/W anomalies.
>>
>> Macros, although powerful, do have their limitations...
>>
>> 73
>> Stewart G3RXQ
>>
>> On Sun, 1 Jul 2012 09:01:52 +0300, Val wrote:
>>> Stewart,
>>>
>>> You can make a toggleable macros by SWT/SWH commands that emulate
>>> pressing/holding the switches that normally control the given function. I
>>> don't know what is DIGOUT1 and how is it turned on and off normally, but
>>> TUNE is toggled by SWH16.
>>>
>>> 73, Val LZ1VB
>>>
>>>
>>>> I need some help from those experienced in K3 macros.
>>>>
>>>> What I want to do is:-
>>>>
>>>> First press of say PF1
>>>> Turn ON DIGOUT1
>>>> Wait n mS
>>>> Turn ON TUNE
>>>>
>>>> Second press of PF1
>>>> Turn OFF TUNE
>>>> Turn OFF DIGOUT1
>>>>
>>>> i.e. How can you toggle a macro from a function key ?
>>>>
>>>> T.I.A.
>>>>
>>>> 73
>>>> Stewart G3RXQ

Joe Subich, W4TV-4

Re: K3 Macro toggle

In reply to this post by Stewart@twinwood

> I suspect (given the number of replies) that this is not possible.

It is certainly possible to toggle DIGOUT1 with a macro -
MN019;UP;MN255; will do it. It is also possible to toggle the TUNE
function - SWH16; will do that. However, when you combine the two
and order matters you have departed the realm of a toggle function.

73,

... Joe, W4TV

On 7/1/2012 3:00 AM, Stewart wrote:

> Val,
> DIGOUT1 is an open collector line that is able to be controlled by the firmware.
> It is also used to switch the external 6m pre-amp option.
>
> I know that some of the K3 commands (like TUNE) can be toggled by a macro.
> My question was how to implement toggling by a function switch to include commands
> that do not have inherent toggling.
>
> I suspect (given the number of replies) that this is not possible.
>
> There have been a number of recent posts suggesting that the use of macros can
> be used to correct some of the K3's H/W or F/W anomalies.
>
> Macros, although powerful, do have their limitations...
>
> 73
> Stewart G3RXQ
>
> On Sun, 1 Jul 2012 09:01:52 +0300, Val wrote:
>> Stewart,
>>
>> You can make a toggleable macros by SWT/SWH commands that emulate
>> pressing/holding the switches that normally control the given function. I
>> don't know what is DIGOUT1 and how is it turned on and off normally, but
>> TUNE is toggled by SWH16.
>>
>> 73, Val LZ1VB
>>
>>
>>> I need some help from those experienced in K3 macros.
>>>
>>> What I want to do is:-
>>>
>>> First press of say PF1
>>> Turn ON DIGOUT1
>>> Wait n mS
>>> Turn ON TUNE
>>>
>>> Second press of PF1
>>> Turn OFF TUNE
>>> Turn OFF DIGOUT1
>>>
>>> i.e. How can you toggle a macro from a function key ?
>>>
>>> T.I.A.
>>>
>>> 73
>>> Stewart G3RXQ
>>>
>>
>> ______________________________________________________________
>> Elecraft mailing list
>> Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft
>> Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm
>> Post: mailto:[hidden email]
>>
>> This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net
>> Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
>
>
> ______________________________________________________________
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> Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft
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> Post: mailto:[hidden email]
>
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> Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
>

KU4AF

Re: K3 Macro toggle

In reply to this post by Don Wilhelm-4

Two macros instead of one - that sums up what is needed, but how to call two macros with one button? I was just fiddling around and came up with this, though it may not be original. The idea is to let the macro itself reassign the PF key to a different macro. For example, say you want the PF2 key to toggle between setting VFO A to 14010 and 14020 (not useful but just an example).

Use the Utility to create the two macros like this:

MACRO1 FA00014010000;MN110;SWT12;SWH47;SWT14;
MACRO2 FA00014020000;MN110;SWT11;SWH47;SWT14;

Send the Macros to the K3 then, on the K3, go to CONFIG:MACRO X, tap 1 and then hold PF2. Tap MENU to get out of CONFIG. Now MACRO1 is assigned to PF2. When you Hold PF2 the macro changes the frequency and then assigns MACRO2 to PF2. The next operation of PF2 sets a different frequency and sets PF2 back to MACRO1.

Substitute whatever you want to toggle between for the FA commands. Put the two macros in whatever slots you have open and change the SWT11/12 taps to match. Change SWH47 to match the PF/M button you want to use. You could also expand on this to rotate among 3 or more macros.

I expect others can add to this and again, I claim no originality for this idea. Now, who will be the first to suggest we need more than 8 Macro slots?

John, KU4AF
Pittsboro, NC

<quote author="Don Wilhelm-4">
Stewart,

What you are asking is not possible in one macro. You could do it with
two macros - one to turn it on and the other to turn it off.

73,
Don W3FPR

Ronald Nutter

Counterpoise vs ground wire ?

I am putting together a portable QRP kit that I can fly on a plane with
me. Looking at several different antennas. With being a portable
operation, what has worked best for some of you to ground the radio ? I
am seeing references to some of the antennas that they need a
counterpoise wire. Is this in addition to a ground wire ?

Ron
KA4KYI
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k6dgw

Re: K3 Macro toggle

In reply to this post by KU4AF

On 7/1/2012 10:35 AM, KU4AF wrote:

> The idea is to let the macro itself reassign
> the PF key to a different macro. For example, say you want the PF2 key to
> toggle between setting VFO A to 14010 and 14020 (not useful but just an
> example).

Vaguely reminiscent of very early stored program computers where it was
considered a cool feature that your code could do arithmetic on itself
creating new code the next time through [like stepping an address
sequentially, or ... gasp ... changing instruction op codes into
different instructions :-)].

I have yet to figure out how to get N1MM to use both banks of the K3
DVR. The obvious way would be for the macros that use Bank 2 make the
switch and key the message and then switch back to Bank 1. The problem
is that the logger has no way of knowing when the voice message is over.
It does the bank switch OK and keys the message, then executes the
switch back to Bank 1 killing the audio immediately. I guess this is
the case for all loggers since there's no feedback from the K3 DVR that
it's done. I've never needed more than two messages on SSB, so it isn't
a problem, just a challenge.

73,

Fred K6DGW
- Northern California Contest Club
- CU in the 2012 Cal QSO Party 6-7 Oct 2012
- www.cqp.org

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Don Wilhelm-4

Re: Counterpoise vs ground wire ?

In reply to this post by Ronald Nutter

Ron (and all),

Normally grounds are installed for safety. If you are portable, you
normally do not need a ground because there is no connection to the AC
power lines.

I am fairly certain you will not be operating portable with antennas
connected when there is lightning close enough to be harmful, so no need
for a lightning ground.

That leaves an RF Ground - and contrary to amateur myth one does not
achieve an RF Ground by connecting to mother earth - an RF Ground will
be present at some point in any antenna system - just due to the
characteristics of physics. RF Ground will be that point of zero RF
voltage - in a balanced dipole, it will be present right at the middle
of the center insulator.

So the short answer is -- if the particular antenna needs a counterpoise
wire to control the impedance and balance of the antenna system, then
add it. RF does need a "return path" (different than RF Ground), and
the RF will make its own return path if one is not provided. It may be
the coax shield, the transmitter enclosure, etc. if no planned and
proper return path is provided.

73,
Don W3FPR

On 7/1/2012 2:49 PM, Ronald Nutter wrote:
> I am putting together a portable QRP kit that I can fly on a plane with
> me. Looking at several different antennas. With being a portable
> operation, what has worked best for some of you to ground the radio ? I
> am seeing references to some of the antennas that they need a
> counterpoise wire. Is this in addition to a ground wire ?
>
>

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w5tvw

Re: Counterpoise vs ground wire ?

In reply to this post by Ronald Nutter

Counterpoise wires OR radials are a big help. They usually work better if
elevated a foot or so, but this can be a dangerous situation to passers by
AND operator of the station as well! Kids will ALWAYS get fouled up in them
unless you are somewhere that is isolated from the usual inquisitive passer
by. Length? that varies with ground you lay them on, conductivity of the
soil, many arcane factors! I used to use at least 3 laid on ground made
from "loud" striped small guage hookup wire. The MIL-SPEC stuff that is
usually white with red/yellow/black tracer stripes. If you work the "low
bands" (80/40/30 meters) placement sometimes get harder than shorter wires
that can be used for higher bands (20-10 meters). SOmetimes a 30-40 foot
long radiator will suffice for general use although I like to use an 85-90
foot "antenna" for 80/40, and the shorter 30-40 footer for the higher bands.
Vertical or an "inverted L". Have been using an MFJ 33' telescopic
fibreglass mast that is easy to transport and can be erected and lashed with
bungee to a garden type hand tiller tool that can be easily "planted" in
ground with no rocks. Trees, hedges can be used for supports of there is no
other way to suspend the wire. A small "L" section tuner can be easily
constructed with a common dual 365 pf tuning capacitor and a coil wound on
PVC pipe with make a handy antenna tuner (required in ALL instances!) You
will be surprised at what you can do with QRP and jury rig antennas!
Nothing beats having several coiled up bundles of hookup wire in various
lengths (16, 33, 45, 85, 120') for the "radials" or the radiators. Some
of the "Buddy pole" setups seem to work well sometimes not! For the most
part I've found them to be more of a bother to erect and use and work no
better than the right length radiator and counterpoise system at a fraction
of the price of a BUddypole. No two locations are the same, so it is VERY
difficult to describe what will work and what doesn't.
I have worked DX like mad on 20 meters around midnight when the band is open
with 5 watts QRP in a wood frame house with a 20' length of hookup wire
hanging from push pin tacks at the junction of ceiling and wall.
Counterpoise in this case, a wire running around the baseboard of the room.
The "key" is trying it and you will find out what does and what doesn't
work. I have had some very good results from the Elecraft T1 mini auto
tuner working with my K1. The T1 has a MUCH greater matching range than the
internal KAT1 tuner by the way!

Long and short of it is I always use "some" kind of counterpoise/radial
system, even if only one wire. Always use an "end fed" radiator that goes
right to the "hot" terminal of the tuner output. No coax, no twinlead which
is an awful liability mechanically to work with. Small light coax can have
awful losses on an untuned dipole which can be a disaster when you are
playing with 5 watts or less. Keep it light, keep it simple and EXPERIMENT.
NO two setups are the same!

73,

Sandy W5TVW
Used to use HW-7, HW-8, HW-9 portable, Ten Tec "PM" series DC rigs, Tec Tec
Argonaut, homebrewed stuff. My favorite still is the Elecraft K1!

-----Original Message-----
From: Ronald Nutter
Sent: Sunday, July 01, 2012 1:49 PM
To: [hidden email]
Subject: [Elecraft] Counterpoise vs ground wire ?

I am putting together a portable QRP kit that I can fly on a plane with
me. Looking at several different antennas. With being a portable
operation, what has worked best for some of you to ground the radio ? I
am seeing references to some of the antennas that they need a
counterpoise wire. Is this in addition to a ground wire ?

Ron
KA4KYI
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ny4g

Re: Counterpoise vs ground wire ?

In reply to this post by Ronald Nutter

We have had great success with end fed half wave dipoles made by LNR Precision without the need for counter poise wires nor even tuners. Specifically we have used the 40-20-10 multi and version which we used for field day this year. When properly tuned at first use, the SWR have been below 1.5 for the bands it was designed for. I use it all the time with KX1 without the need for an ATU. I have made plenty of contacts into eastern Europe which is better than a 1000 miles per watt on a KX1 when used as a vertical or near vertical sloper.

Google Par end fed 40-20-10 and look at the reviews on eHam.

Ariel NY4G

Sent from my iPad

On Jul 1, 2012, at 2:50 PM, "Ronald Nutter" <[hidden email]> wrote:

> I am putting together a portable QRP kit that I can fly on a plane with
> me. Looking at several different antennas. With being a portable
> operation, what has worked best for some of you to ground the radio ? I
> am seeing references to some of the antennas that they need a
> counterpoise wire. Is this in addition to a ground wire ?
>
> Ron
> KA4KYI
> ______________________________________________________________
> Elecraft mailing list
> Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft
> Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm
> Post: mailto:[hidden email]
>
> This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net
> Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html

Don Wilhelm-4

Re: Counterpoise vs ground wire ?

I agree that the PAR EndFedz antennas are good and easy to put up.
The reason the PAR EndFedz can use no counterpoise wire has to do with
the return connection for the tuning network - it is connected to the
coax shield. That means the coax shield is doing double duty - the
outside is acting as the counterpoise while the inside is carrying the
RF current.
For End Fed Halfwave Antennas that do not have a connection like that,
the use of a short (0.05 wavelength) counterpoise is required to make it
work. For more informationm check out the information by AA5TB at
http://www.aa5tb.com/efha.html.

73,
Don W3FPR

On 7/1/2012 4:36 PM, Ariel Jacala wrote:
> We have had great success with end fed half wave dipoles made by LNR Precision without the need for counter poise wires nor even tuners. Specifically we have used the 40-20-10 multi and version which we used for field day this year. When properly tuned at first use, the SWR have been below 1.5 for the bands it was designed for. I use it all the time with KX1 without the need for an ATU. I have made plenty of contacts into eastern Europe which is better than a 1000 miles per watt on a KX1 when used as a vertical or near vertical sloper.
>
> Google Par end fed 40-20-10 and look at the reviews on eHam.
>
> Ariel NY4G
>
>

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Don Wilhelm-4

Re: Counterpoise vs ground wire ?

In reply to this post by ny4g

The "classic zepp" antenna lives on in VHF circles, and is known as a
J-Pole. Turn the Zepp vertically and you have a J-pole. The major
difference is the J-pole feed - the 1/4 wave transmission line section
is shorted at the bottom and teh 50 ohm feedline is connected up a bit
where the impedance is 50 ohms.

73,
Don W3FPR

On 7/1/2012 5:40 PM, Ron D'Eau Claire wrote:

> That was the beauty of the Zeppelin antenna (the true "Zepp") A half wave
> radiator is end fed through 1/4 wavelength of open wire line. One side of
> the line connected to the radiator and the other side connected to nothing
> - just an insulator. Since very little current flows at the feed point, the
> balance in the line is still good. The 1/4 wavelength of line converted the
> high impedance at the radiator to a low impedance at the rig. Of course
> that's only true at one frequency for a given length of radiator and feed
> line.
>
>

Don Wilhelm-4

Re: Counterpoise vs ground wire ?

In reply to this post by Don Wilhelm-4

Actually Ron, the pure form of "dipole" is an antenna with two ends, but
typical usage refers to the half wavelength.
Yes, I did mean a 1/2 wavelength dipole - sorry for not being specific.

73,
Don W3FPR

On 7/1/2012 5:40 PM, Ron D'Eau Claire wrote:

> Note that Don said " RF Ground will be that point of zero RF voltage - in a
> balanced dipole, it will be present right at the middle of the center
> insulator."
>
> "Dipole" is the important word, meaning a radiator 1/2 wavelength long. A
> full wave center fed antenna (two half waves in phase) will have a voltage
> loop - high impedance point - at the center of the center insulator.
>
> As the center fed antenna is made shorter than a 1/2 wave, the impedance at
> the center also rises. Think of it as "stuffing part of the antenna down the
> feed line" to make up a 1/2 wave.
>
> 73, Ron AC7AC
>
>
>
> ______________________________________________________________
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k6dgw

Re: Counterpoise vs ground wire ?

In reply to this post by Ronald Nutter

On 7/1/2012 11:49 AM, Ronald Nutter wrote:
> I am putting together a portable QRP kit that I can fly on a plane with
> me. Looking at several different antennas. With being a portable
> operation, what has worked best for some of you to ground the radio ? I
> am seeing references to some of the antennas that they need a
> counterpoise wire. Is this in addition to a ground wire ?

You might want to subscribe to the NA SOTA Yahoo Group Ron. SOTA is
"Summits On The Air," analogous to IOTA. www.sota.org.uk is the main
site. www.sotawatch.org is the site where alerts and posts are made.
Light, efficient portable antennas are a big subject among the
Summiteers and there are people there who can probably point you in
useful directions.

There are several folks in the NA SOTA crowd who use end-fed half-wave
antennas on summits very successfully [Fred, KT5X is one]. You're
feeding a very high impedance, so you need a matching network such as
the one that Stu, KI6J, designs. EFHW's have the advantage that they're
just wire [mine is on a little reel, I just pull out to the mark for
that band] so they're very light and simple. Theoretically, they
shouldn't need a return path, however mine is much easier to cram power
into with about 8 inches of wire hanging off the shield of the coax at
the radio on 20m. Oddly, EZNEC confirms it, YMMV.

Another SOTA ham is Mike, KD9KC, in El Paso. He's been using the
AlexLoop magnetic loop antenna and has very good things to say about it.
It is a little pricy compared to a half wavelength of wire, but Mike
carries his to some fairly high summits and on long hikes. It shouldn't
be that hard to build one from scratch.

If you're outside and worried about grounding for lightning, you
shouldn't be outside. :-) If your radio is battery powered, AC mains
safety grounding isn't really an issue. It's always a good idea to make
sure the antenna connector has a high value resistor [~100K] across it
to bleed precip and wind/dust static.

73,

Fred K6DGW
- Northern California Contest Club
- CU in the 2012 Cal QSO Party 6-7 Oct 2012
- www.cqp.org

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Guy, K2AV

Re: Counterpoise vs ground wire ?

On Sun, Jul 1, 2012 at 7:01 PM, Fred Jensen <[hidden email]> wrote:

> Theoretically, they
> shouldn't need a return path, however mine is much easier to cram power
> into with about 8 inches of wire hanging off the shield of the coax at
> the radio on 20m. Oddly, EZNEC confirms it, YMMV.
>

Not sure whose theory you are quoting. Some genre of portable tuning
networks require just a tiny bit of wire so there is actually someplace to
stuff electrons. Higher power levels will need more wire to stop arcing. I
always tell people to hang a yard or meter of wire there if the network has
the the input from the transmitter isolated from the high impedance side.
EZNEC correctly calculates the "capacity to the cosmos" of the wire in the
model and knows whether it can be used as a counterpoise, which is what
that eight inches actually is if there is no path from the high Z side to
the transmitter side. The easiest thing is to use as a counterpoise for an
EFHW is to solder a little flexible wire to a six inch nail, and stick it
into the ground.

73, Guy.
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Nick Kennedy

Re: K3 Macro toggle

In reply to this post by KU4AF

Whoa, I like this. Must have missed it the first time around. I now
tap M3 to toggle between
5W (label: QRP) and 100W (label: QRO) with these macros:

MACRO1 PC005;MN110;SWT12;SWT35;SWT14;
MACRO2 PC100;MN110;SWT11;SWT35;SWT14;

That freed up (hold) M3 for another macro.

TU / 73-

Nick, WA5BDU

On 7/1/2012 12:35 PM, KU4AF wrote:

> Two macros instead of one - that sums up what is needed, but how to call two
> macros with one button? I was just fiddling around and came up with this,
> though it may not be original. The idea is to let the macro itself reassign
> the PF key to a different macro. For example, say you want the PF2 key to
> toggle between setting VFO A to 14010 and 14020 (not useful but just an
> example).
>
> Use the Utility to create the two macros like this:
>
> MACRO1 FA00014010000;MN110;SWT12;SWH47;SWT14;
> MACRO2 FA00014020000;MN110;SWT11;SWH47;SWT14;
>
> Send the Macros to the K3 then, on the K3, go to CONFIG:MACRO X, tap 1 and
> then hold PF2. Tap MENU to get out of CONFIG. Now MACRO1 is assigned to PF2.
> When you Hold PF2 the macro changes the frequency and then assigns MACRO2 to
> PF2. The next operation of PF2 sets a different frequency and sets PF2 back
> to MACRO1.
>
> Substitute whatever you want to toggle between for the FA commands. Put the
> two macros in whatever slots you have open and change the SWT11/12 taps to
> match. Change SWH47 to match the PF/M button you want to use. You could also
> expand on this to rotate among 3 or more macros.
>
> I expect others can add to this and again, I claim no originality for this
> idea. Now, who will be the first to suggest we need more than 8 Macro slots?
>
> John, KU4AF
> Pittsboro, NC
>
>

Pierfrancesco Caci

Re: K3 Macro toggle

Many thanks for this nice example. Now, I would like to free up M4-HOLD,
but I can't find anywhere in the manuals how to delete a macro
assignment from one of the programmable keys. Is it possible at all, or
should I just wait for when I come up with my next macro and just
replace it?

Pf

>>>>> "Nick-WA5BDU" == Nick-WA5BDU <[hidden email]> writes:

Nick-WA5BDU> Whoa, I like this. Must have missed it the first time around. I now
Nick-WA5BDU> tap M3 to toggle between
Nick-WA5BDU> 5W (label: QRP) and 100W (label: QRO) with these macros:

Nick-WA5BDU> MACRO1 PC005;MN110;SWT12;SWT35;SWT14;
Nick-WA5BDU> MACRO2 PC100;MN110;SWT11;SWT35;SWT14;

Nick-WA5BDU> That freed up (hold) M3 for another macro.

Nick-WA5BDU> TU / 73-

Nick-WA5BDU> Nick, WA5BDU

Nick-WA5BDU> On 7/1/2012 12:35 PM, KU4AF wrote:
>> Two macros instead of one - that sums up what is needed, but how to call two
>> macros with one button? I was just fiddling around and came up with this,
>> though it may not be original. The idea is to let the macro itself reassign
>> the PF key to a different macro. For example, say you want the PF2 key to
>> toggle between setting VFO A to 14010 and 14020 (not useful but just an
>> example).
>>
>> Use the Utility to create the two macros like this:
>>
>> MACRO1 FA00014010000;MN110;SWT12;SWH47;SWT14;
>> MACRO2 FA00014020000;MN110;SWT11;SWH47;SWT14;
>>
>> Send the Macros to the K3 then, on the K3, go to CONFIG:MACRO X, tap 1 and
>> then hold PF2. Tap MENU to get out of CONFIG. Now MACRO1 is assigned to PF2.
>> When you Hold PF2 the macro changes the frequency and then assigns MACRO2 to
>> PF2. The next operation of PF2 sets a different frequency and sets PF2 back
>> to MACRO1.
>>
>> Substitute whatever you want to toggle between for the FA commands. Put the
>> two macros in whatever slots you have open and change the SWT11/12 taps to
>> match. Change SWH47 to match the PF/M button you want to use. You could also
>> expand on this to rotate among 3 or more macros.
>>
>> I expect others can add to this and again, I claim no originality for this
>> idea. Now, who will be the first to suggest we need more than 8 Macro slots?
>>
>> John, KU4AF
>> Pittsboro, NC
>>
>>

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--
Pierfrancesco Caci, ik5pvx
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KU4AF

Re: K3 Macro toggle

Pf,

You can clear the macro from the M1-M4 keys by storing a CW or voice message there. Just tap the REC key, then the M key, record the message and tap the REC key again. If you don't want a message there, just tap the REC key without recording anything.

John, KU4AF
Pittsboro, NC

<quote author="Pierfrancesco Caci">
Many thanks for this nice example. Now, I would like to free up M4-HOLD,
but I can't find anywhere in the manuals how to delete a macro
assignment from one of the programmable keys. Is it possible at all, or
should I just wait for when I come up with my next macro and just
replace it?

Pf