K3 "REV" BUTTON
Locked
 
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I must have done something silly (again).
My normal procedure when trying to work a DX station operating split is to: 1. Tune the station in with VFO "A", then hold the "LOCK" button (keeps me from inadvertently moving off his frequency). 2. Hold the "SPLIT" button then while holding the "REV" button in I tune VFO "A" to my desired transmitting frequency (up 1, etc.). Tonight when I tried to do the same thing, after step 1 the display indications were normal, the "SPLT" indicator appears, the lock icon shows above VFO A and the TX arrow points to VFO B. However, when I press the REV button, the TX arrow points to both VFO A and VFO B, and the lock icon switches to below VFO B. Turning the VFO A knob moves both VFO. Even when neither VFO is locked and I'm not is split mode, pressing the REV button results in the TX arrow pointing to both VFO. Recycling the power doesn't help. The radio is S/N 417 and I haven't changed anything or uploaded new F/W for a couple of years. Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated. Bob, N2UU ______________________________________________________________ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:[hidden email] This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html |
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Hi Bob,
Everything is normal, you just managed to somehow link VFO A and B. Hold the SUB button until you see the word UNLINK. When the two VFOs are linked, turning VFO A also moves VFO B by the same amount even if you have the REV button pressed. I had never noticed the two arrows on at the same time while holding the REV button but it is true. However, the letters TX are not visible and sure enough if you try to transmit while holding the REV button nothing happens. So no harm, no foul. You really should upgrade your firmware to the latest. You have missed many subtle improvements. 73, Mike K2MK
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K2 S/N 7012 lives!
I just finished assembly and testing of my K2 and it is working 100%. It was a wild ride with many ups and downs. First down was at the very first checkout. The K2 refused to power up. There was a brief click the nothing. Fuse F1 got hot to the touch. I eventually tracked it down to a solder splash shorting 12v to ground on the control board. The first "up" was after I fixed that and it came to life for the first time. The next down came at the second checkout phase. I had no signal at TP3. I found that I had wound T4 incorrectly. The was found and corrected easily. The last and biggest down came at final checkout phase. I had ZERO transmitter output, no 80m recieve and weak 12m recieve. I figured I would fix the recieve first. I was doing signal injection to try to track down where 80m was failing when the clip lead slipped out of my hand, fell on the PA transistors and thus blowing them out! (Prior to this the resistance/voltage checks on them was fine.) Talk about a sinking feeling in the pit of ones stomach! I ordered replacements and while waiting for them to arrive I set myself again, much more carefully, to fix the 80 and 12m recieve. 80m turned out to be a poor solder connection and 12m turned out to be a damaged capacitor which I ordered and replaced. While waiting for the replacement PA transistors to arrive, I built and added the AF filter and the noise blanker modules without incident. After the replacement PA transistors arrived I installed them ad STILL had 0 transmitter output. Remembering the T4 issue, I rewound all the transformers in the PA circuit. Still no output. I tried tracking the problem down without success. I finally admitted defeat and got help from Elecraft support. They provided a check list to follow. Very shortly thereafter I found a solder blob shorting two leads on Q3 on the control board. After reassembly I was rewarded with power out on all bands. The best heat I ever felt was my 4W dummy load getting warm when I pressed "tune"! Lessons learned: Get a GOOD, temperature controlled soldering station BEFORE starting. I did the beginning part of the control board with a Weller 25W pencil iron but it had NO temperature control and after being on for more than 10 minutes or so was really too hot to use effectively. Remember, both my serious issues (With the exception of the OOPS!) were due to solder problems on the control board. A good soldering station is key. Be careful to wind the toroids EXACTLY as the manual states. Sand the leads until ALL you see is nice, shiney copper. Pick up a GOOD pair of diagnal cutters. Mine wer a bit dull and made things difficult until I bought new ones. A couple parts were initially installed in the wrong place. If you are getting tired, STOP. I made these mistakes when I worked too long. Take your time! Don't skim the instructions, read each word as if your life depended on it. hihi Some parts are tiny. Get a good light and a good magnifying glass. I used and LED headlamp and a jewler's loup. Towards the end I was triple-verifying components before soldering. The tiny capacitors are FRAGILE. Despite care on my part I DID damage one. Last but not least was Elecraft technical support. They are the best and I could not have done this without their guidence. Thank you guys! All-in-all it was a great experience. I look forward to many years of fun with the radio! 73 de Al, W2GZN. ______________________________________________________________ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:[hidden email] This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html |
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Congratulation, Alan. What we paid for is not just a radio but an excellent
self-learning process. K2 can be self-serviced because you built it. Elecraft support team is excellent too and you will question whether they have time to sleep for such a prompt service. cheers, Johnny VR2XMC ----- 郵件原件 ---- 寄件人﹕ Alan Davenport <[hidden email]> 收件人﹕ [hidden email] 傳送日期﹕ 2010/10/21 (四) 9:10:01 AM 主題： [Elecraft] K2 S/N 7012 lives! K2 S/N 7012 lives! I just finished assembly and testing of my K2 and it is working 100%. It was a wild ride with many ups and downs. First down was at the very first checkout. The K2 refused to power up. There was a brief click the nothing. Fuse F1 got hot to the touch. I eventually tracked it down to a solder splash shorting 12v to ground on the control board. The first "up" was after I fixed that and it came to life for the first time. The next down came at the second checkout phase. I had no signal at TP3. I found that I had wound T4 incorrectly. The was found and corrected easily. The last and biggest down came at final checkout phase. I had ZERO transmitter output, no 80m recieve and weak 12m recieve. I figured I would fix the recieve first. I was doing signal injection to try to track down where 80m was failing when the clip lead slipped out of my hand, fell on the PA transistors and thus blowing them out! (Prior to this the resistance/voltage checks on them was fine.) Talk about a sinking feeling in the pit of ones stomach! I ordered replacements and while waiting for them to arrive I set myself again, much more carefully, to fix the 80 and 12m recieve. 80m turned out to be a poor solder connection and 12m turned out to be a damaged capacitor which I ordered and replaced. While waiting for the replacement PA transistors to arrive, I built and added the AF filter and the noise blanker modules without incident. After the replacement PA transistors arrived I installed them ad STILL had 0 transmitter output. Remembering the T4 issue, I rewound all the transformers in the PA circuit. Still no output. I tried tracking the problem down without success. I finally admitted defeat and got help from Elecraft support. They provided a check list to follow. Very shortly thereafter I found a solder blob shorting two leads on Q3 on the control board. After reassembly I was rewarded with power out on all bands. The best heat I ever felt was my 4W dummy load getting warm when I pressed "tune"! Lessons learned: Get a GOOD, temperature controlled soldering station BEFORE starting. I did the beginning part of the control board with a Weller 25W pencil iron but it had NO temperature control and after being on for more than 10 minutes or so was really too hot to use effectively. Remember, both my serious issues (With the exception of the OOPS!) were due to solder problems on the control board. A good soldering station is key. Be careful to wind the toroids EXACTLY as the manual states. Sand the leads until ALL you see is nice, shiney copper. Pick up a GOOD pair of diagnal cutters. Mine wer a bit dull and made things difficult until I bought new ones. A couple parts were initially installed in the wrong place. If you are getting tired, STOP. I made these mistakes when I worked too long. Take your time! Don't skim the instructions, read each word as if your life depended on it. hihi Some parts are tiny. Get a good light and a good magnifying glass. I used and LED headlamp and a jewler's loup. Towards the end I was triple-verifying components before soldering. The tiny capacitors are FRAGILE. Despite care on my part I DID damage one. Last but not least was Elecraft technical support. They are the best and I could not have done this without their guidence. Thank you guys! All-in-all it was a great experience. I look forward to many years of fun with the radio! 73 de Al, W2GZN. ______________________________________________________________ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:[hidden email] This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html |
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In reply to this post by Alan Davenport
It certainly was a challenge. I got the kit around Sept. 1st and thought I would have it done by my mid-september vacation. (Ha!) I'll admit I was a bit overwhelmed when I opented the box. I had not built a kit of any size for nearly 30 years when I built a Heathkit stereo. One of my first thoughts upon opening the box was "what have I got myself into!?" What I forgot to mention in my original post was that when the clip lead slipped and shorted out the PA transistors The radio would not power up at that point due to the shorted transistors. Studying the schematic I saw that if I removed T3 I would remove power to that section of the circuit. I did so and (whew) the K2 powered up again. That allowed me to continue de-bugging the recieve issues while waiting for hte replacement transistors. (I ordered TWO sets by the way hihi) I bought the radio for QRP backpacking. I have been using an FT-817. The thing is, the K2 is so nice I don't know if I can bring myself to take it outside on a hike! 73 de Al, W2GZN ________________________________ From: Byron Servies <[hidden email]> To: Alan Davenport <[hidden email]> Sent: Wed, October 20, 2010 10:56:31 PM Subject: Re: [Elecraft] K2 S/N 7012 lives! On Wednesday, October 20, 2010, Alan Davenport <[hidden email]> wrote: > K2 S/N 7012 lives! > > I just finished assembly and testing of my K2 and it is working 100%. Congratulations! I'm very jealous; I very much enjoy K1 2799 that I built over Christmas last year but am ready to move up to a K2. Hopefully I can complete one before Field Day next year. Just have to save up the $$ first! Enjoy your radio! 73 de Byron KI6NUL -- - Northern California Contest Club - CU in the 2011 Cal QSO Party 1-2 Oct 2011 - www.cqp.org ______________________________________________________________ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:[hidden email] This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html |
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In reply to this post by Alan Davenport
Congratulations Al! I've always wanted to build a K2 but I don't think I'll
ever have the time to complete it. Anyway, I do agree with you. Elecraft support is the best in the industry. I haven't come across another amateur radio company that supports their customers the way Elecraft does. 73 de James K2QI On Wed, Oct 20, 2010 at 9:10 PM, Alan Davenport <[hidden email]> wrote: > K2 S/N 7012 lives! > > I just finished assembly and testing of my K2 and it is working 100%. > > <snip> > > 73 de Al, W2GZN. > > > 73 de James K2QI President UNARC/4U1UN ______________________________________________________________ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:[hidden email] This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
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In reply to this post by Alan Davenport
On Thu, Oct 21, 2010 at 5:54 AM, Alan Davenport <[hidden email]> wrote: > The thing > is, the K2 is so nice I don't know if I can bring myself to take it outside on >a > hike! For some reason, I sense a KX-1 in your future. Mark AD5SS Or a K1. Thing is though 95% of my QRP portable ops are CW, I still like to come up on the HF pack freqs on occasion or on 10M SSB when the band is open. Come on sun spots! 73 de Al, W2GZN ______________________________________________________________ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:[hidden email] This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html |
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In reply to this post by Alan Davenport
>> I had not built a kit of any size
>> for nearly 30 years when I built a Heathkit stereo. One of my first thoughts >> upon opening the box was "what have I got myself into!?" >Boy, do I hear that! It had been 20 years for me, so I started out >with a DL1 just to remember how to use my nice soldering station. On >the K1 you build the 4 band filter board first, and I thought that >took forever until I started on the RF board. At one point, after >installing 60 components, I realized the board was still basically >empty! Certainly true. When I was sorting the capacitors I filled up and entire egg carrier (of the kind used for camping trips) and still had caps left over! When I reached the page where you have to install a large amount of caps I felt I would never be done. I just took it slow and steady but it felt like I had a bottomless supply of caps that kept replenishing themselves! >I would take breaks occasionally to build a mini-module so that I >could actually finish something. They have come in extremely handy in >the year since. >This contest season a club member has loaned me a full coverage radio, >which I will need. So it's time for some K1 modifications! I want to >put in the K6XX CW tuning indicator and am considering trying to >interface a Z10000 buffer to interface with a softrock for panadapter >use. I don't think I will be putting any mods in for a time. Someday I am sure but once it is done (I have ATU and SSB boards to finish) I think I will just USE it for a while before risking another calamity! >> I bought the radio for QRP backpacking. I have been using an FT-817. The >> thing is, the K2 is so nice I don't know if I can bring myself to take it >> outside on a hike! >Definitely take it on a hike! You will like it even better, I'm certain. Oh I will. I will just have to come up with a good way of protecting it when it is in my pack. 73 de Al, W2GZN ______________________________________________________________ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:[hidden email] This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html |
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