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Mike Maloney

Re: K3 Powerpole Replacement

I can vouch for the Tricrimp tool sold by West Mountain Radio. It appears the same as PowerWerx in photos.
Does NOT add to diameter of barrel when crimped as soldering might. Good point made by Don below; fill connector barrel with wire before crimping smaller than #12.
I think cost new less than $50?
73, Mike/ac5p

________________________________
From: Don Wilhelm <[hidden email]>
To: "Charlie T, K3ICH" <[hidden email]>; [hidden email]
Sent: Wednesday, December 11, 2013 8:00 AM
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] K3 Powerpole Replacement

Charlie,

The PowerWerx crimper is good. Just be certain to fill the cavity with wire - for instance the 30 amp connectors are sized for #12 wire - if the wire is smaller, it may be loose, so in addition to filling the barrel with as many wire strands as I can, I add some solder for extra security.

73,
Don W3FPR

On 12/11/2013 7:33 AM, Charlie T, K3ICH wrote:

> OK, I see APP crimpers available from $10 to over $500. How much would you expect to pay for a "really good" crimp tool?
>
> Not trying to be snarky, I just need an honest answer. Some people say regular pliers will work, but I would think this isn't the best solution.
>
> Any suggestion for a good price on a good crimper and where to buy it?. Hint: I am NOT going to spend more on the crimper than the radio is worth to use these things.
>
> Also, do you need a different crimper for different size APP's?
>
> Feel free to reply off-list to hold down the bandwidth. (pincon at erols dot com)
>
> 73, Charlie k3ICH
>
>
> ----- Original Message ----- From: "Jim Brown" <[hidden email]>
> To: <[hidden email]>
> Sent: Tuesday, December 10, 2013 11:45 PM
> Subject: Re: [Elecraft] K3 Powerpole Replacement
>
>
>> On 12/9/2013 1:36 AM, David Ferrington, M0XDF wrote:
>>> I have been using APPs for ALL my 12v gear for > 6 years now, with no problems at all
>>
>> Same here -- I've built at least a hundred pairs of Power Poles. I use them not only for ham gear, but for all sorts of equipment that gets powered from low voltage DC.
>>
>>> - all contacts are crimped, not soldered (once you've decided to go the APP route, buy a really good crimp tool)
>>
>> All of my Power Poles are soldered (and only soldered). I buy the red, black, and green shells and all three sizes of inserts in quantity. I use the green ones for chassis bonding.
>>
>> 73, Jim K9YC
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Jim AB3CV

Re: K3 Powerpole Replacement

I prefer to have an assortment of pins: 15a, 30a, 45a. They're cheap so why
take shortcuts?

jim ab3cv

fill connector barrel with wire before crimping smaller than #12.
>
>
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Bill Frantz

Re: K3 Powerpole Replacement

In reply to this post by Jeff Cochrane - VK4XA

The problem comes with very small wire. I just acquired a YS-60
watt meter in a trade and it has wires that are too small for
the 15A pins. My solution was solder.

For high power connections, over 30A if I remember correctly,
the National Electric Code frowns on solder because they are
concerned that a bad joint will have high resistance, heat up,
and melt the solder. I keep this item in mind when I do high
power connections.

Also, don't hesitate to use a magnifier to check that the
connector is completely over the spring. I had a APP connector
that exhibited the "doesn't stay connected" and "high
resistance" behaviors. I wasn't until I used a magnifier that I
could see it wasn't assembled correctly. A strong push with a
small screwdriver fixed it.

As a note for RigRunner users, DXEngineering has low value ATC
fuses in 1A, 2A, and 3A. Mine are on a slow freight coming to California.

Cheers - Bill, AE6JV

On 12/11/13 at 9:52 AM, [hidden email] (Jim Miller) wrote:

>I prefer to have an assortment of pins: 15a, 30a, 45a. They're cheap so why
>take shortcuts?

-------------------------------------------------------------------------
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CA 95032

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Jim Brown-10

Soldering Power Poles

In reply to this post by Mike Maloney

> I think cost new less than $50?

Why would I want to spend $50 (plus shipping, of course) for a crimper
when the soldering iron I already own works really well? Some of my
techniques:

1) The biggest inserts are the most difficult to use, so I use them only
for the #10 wire for which they are designed. I first carefully strip
and tin the wire long enough so that the stripped conductor will just
fit inside the shell once the pin is inserted. That's because the
insulation of a larger cable often does not fit inside the shell. I find
that liquid flux applied to the wire before tinning keeps the solder
layer thin enough to fit in the insert. I then use the pliers to fold
the "wings" over the wire so that, when soldered, it will fit in the
shell. I also use a drop of flux when soldering.

2) The middle-size insert will handle #12 if carefully stripped and
tinned, as above. Again, I use flux for the tinning, and also for
soldering to the pin.

3) I use a lot of the smallest inserts for small diameter cables, like
those from small accessories. I strip the conductors long enough that I
can fold the stripped part over itself with the folded length just
enough to fit in the pin. Again, a drop of flux helps the soldering
process.

4) I use a nice bench vise to hold the cable to which I am soldering,
orienting the cable upward so that the pin sits on it, and oriented so
that the V+ cable is on the right with the lip facing away from me.

Once the pins are installed, I mate a red and black shell, put the two
shells in the vise, then carefully orient the pins and push them in one
at a time until the lip latches to the blade in the shell. For smaller
cable, I use a little green Xcelite screwdriver to push the pin over the
blade.

In general, these techniques work well for almost any connector I need
to install, all the way up to PL259s and multipins of various sorts

73, Jim K9YC
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EricJ-2

Re: Soldering Power Poles

Why? Simple. While you were doing all that, a guy with a proper crimper
would have completed the job, and be sipping his coffee waiting for you
to complete yours. If you had been in the field at the time, he might
have finished his coffee, and decided to loan you his crimper.

RC aircraft guys have this argument all the time between soldered Deans
connectors and APPs. Strip, crimp, insert, done, anywhere,
professionally. That's my reason.

Eric

On 12/11/2013 12:11 PM, Jim Brown wrote:

>
>> I think cost new less than $50?
>
> Why would I want to spend $50 (plus shipping, of course) for a crimper
> when the soldering iron I already own works really well? Some of my
> techniques:
>
> 1) The biggest inserts are the most difficult to use, so I use them
> only for the #10 wire for which they are designed. I first carefully
> strip and tin the wire long enough so that the stripped conductor will
> just fit inside the shell once the pin is inserted. That's because the
> insulation of a larger cable often does not fit inside the shell. I
> find that liquid flux applied to the wire before tinning keeps the
> solder layer thin enough to fit in the insert. I then use the pliers
> to fold the "wings" over the wire so that, when soldered, it will fit
> in the shell. I also use a drop of flux when soldering.
>
> 2) The middle-size insert will handle #12 if carefully stripped and
> tinned, as above. Again, I use flux for the tinning, and also for
> soldering to the pin.
>
> 3) I use a lot of the smallest inserts for small diameter cables, like
> those from small accessories. I strip the conductors long enough that
> I can fold the stripped part over itself with the folded length just
> enough to fit in the pin. Again, a drop of flux helps the soldering
> process.
>
> 4) I use a nice bench vise to hold the cable to which I am soldering,
> orienting the cable upward so that the pin sits on it, and oriented so
> that the V+ cable is on the right with the lip facing away from me.
>
> Once the pins are installed, I mate a red and black shell, put the two
> shells in the vise, then carefully orient the pins and push them in
> one at a time until the lip latches to the blade in the shell. For
> smaller cable, I use a little green Xcelite screwdriver to push the
> pin over the blade.
>
> In general, these techniques work well for almost any connector I need
> to install, all the way up to PL259s and multipins of various sorts
>
> 73, Jim K9YC
> ______________________________________________________________
> Elecraft mailing list
> Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft
> Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm
> Post: mailto:[hidden email]
>
> This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net
> Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
>
>

Bill-3

Re: Soldering Power Poles

I have all kinds of "proper" crimpers. They do a good job in many cases.
I have never been a fan of crimped RF connectors for VHF/UHF, however,
most commercial installers use them with great success. Remember, those
connections usually only need lives of a couple of years. In hamdom I
build things to last for many years, so I do not have to revisit
anything down the road.

Hence, I crimp when I have the proper tool - then solder that same
connector. Only takes a few seconds and guarantees it will last as long
as I will. Do I like PowerX for DC connections in the shack? Not at all.
I much prefer crimped and soldered spade clips with screw terminal power
strips. May take a little longer to hook things up, but it is sure solid.
Won't come apart with a slight tug either.

I also still measure power supply quality by weight.

Bill W2BLC K-Line
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mcduffie

Re: Soldering Power Poles

On Wed, 11 Dec 2013 17:15:45 -0500, Bill W2BLC wrote:

> I have all kinds of "proper" crimpers. They do a good job in many cases.
> I have never been a fan of crimped RF connectors for VHF/UHF, however,
> most commercial installers use them with great success. Remember, those
> connections usually only need lives of a couple of years. In hamdom I
> build things to last for many years, so I do not have to revisit
> anything down the road.
>
> Hence, I crimp when I have the proper tool - then solder that same
> connector. Only takes a few seconds and guarantees it will last as long
> as I will. Do I like PowerX for DC connections in the shack? Not at all.
> I much prefer crimped and soldered spade clips with screw terminal power
> strips. May take a little longer to hook things up, but it is sure solid.
> Won't come apart with a slight tug either.
>
> I also still measure power supply quality by weight.

Amen! In some cases, I'm using coax with connectors that I installed in
the 60s! You bet they are soldered, center AND shield. Power supply
leads the same.

Gary
--
http://ag0n.net
3055: http://ag0n.net/irlp/3055
NodeOp Help Page: http://ag0n.net/irlp
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Kurt Pawlikowski

Re: Soldering Power Poles

In reply to this post by Jim Brown-10

Jim, Et Al,

Just a note about what I heard regarding the crimp/solder debate:
When you solder stranded wire, you loose strain relief. That is, under
any flexing, individual strands tend to break. Granted, our application
doesn't usually involve a lot of any type of strain, but it's a good
thing to keep in mind.

Regards,

kurtt

Kurt Pawlikowski, AKA WB9FMC
The Pinrod Corporation
[hidden email]
(773) 284-9500
http://pinrod.com
On 12/11/2013 14:11, Jim Brown wrote:

Jim Brown-10

Re: Soldering Power Poles

On 12/13/2013 2:24 AM, Kurt Pawlikowski wrote:
> When you solder stranded wire, you loose strain relief. That is, under
> any flexing, individual strands tend to break.

That's true, and it's why connectors on cables that subject to flexing
need good strain relief.

73, Jim K9YC
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