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K3 assembly photo log.

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Eric Ross

K3 assembly photo log.

I did a photo log of my assembly of the K3 (S/N 8312) this last month. I sure enjoyed the build.

https://www.flickr.com/photos/125220397@N06/sets/72157644623374769/

Eric
wb7sde

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bdenley

Re: K3 assembly photo log.

Thanks Eric. I enjoyed going through your photos!

Brian KB1VBF (jealous K2 owner)

Sent from my iPad

> On Jun 6, 2014, at 12:41 AM, Eric Ross <[hidden email]> wrote:
>
> I did a photo log of my assembly of the K3 (S/N 8312) this last month. I sure enjoyed the build.
>
> https://www.flickr.com/photos/125220397@N06/sets/72157644623374769/
>
> Eric
> wb7sde
>
> ______________________________________________________________
> Elecraft mailing list
> Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft
> Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm
> Post: mailto:[hidden email]
>
> This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net
> Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
> Message delivered to [hidden email]

W2RMS

KAT500 assembly

Hi everyone!
Finally assembled the KAT500 last night.
I never thought i would have this much difficulty with the tuner as opposed to K3/P3.
Those SO-239 lugs are tricky! Especially the XMTR one. I actually ended up using a black screw instead of the zinc one 'cause it just wouldn't fit.
Hoping that KPA500 goes together easier.
And the W2 meter, that i ordered as a kit, came in assembled :-(
I had to take it apart (not fully) and examine what's inside. For me assembling these products is about 3/4 of the fun! I like using them too, but putting them together is something i wait for and savor it :-)
I'm a geek, i guess...
__________________
Slava (Sal) B, W2RMS
[hidden email]

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W2RMS

Re: KAT500 assembly

Oh, and one question:
what do people do with all these power cables?
So K3 has one RCA 1A power outlet on the back, right? And i'm using that for the P3.
Now i need one for the KAT500 and one for the W2.
W2 came with a pre-made cable that is meant to go into the K3 (taken by the P3).
So i'm guessing i'd have to make up a new one and use power poles?
Looks like KPA500 doesn't have a power socket on the back like the K3, so i can't run anything off of it, right?
Do you guys just use whatever means of power distribution are available to you (like a power strip of some sort) and hook all these things up to that?
__________________
Slava (Sal) B, W2RMS
[hidden email]

On Jun 6, 2014, at 7:29 AM, Slava Baytalskiy <[hidden email]> wrote:

> Hi everyone!
> Finally assembled the KAT500 last night.
> I never thought i would have this much difficulty with the tuner as opposed to K3/P3.
> Those SO-239 lugs are tricky! Especially the XMTR one. I actually ended up using a black screw instead of the zinc one 'cause it just wouldn't fit.
> Hoping that KPA500 goes together easier.
> And the W2 meter, that i ordered as a kit, came in assembled :-(
> I had to take it apart (not fully) and examine what's inside. For me assembling these products is about 3/4 of the fun! I like using them too, but putting them together is something i wait for and savor it :-)
> I'm a geek, i guess...
> __________________
> Slava (Sal) B, W2RMS
> [hidden email]
>

Mike K2MK

Re: KAT500 assembly

In reply to this post by W2RMS

Hi Sal,

The KPA500 is a pretty easy kit but you have to take time to carefully inventory the screws.

Here's a tip. Look at figure 40 on page 28 of the assembly manual. I suspect it would be easier to bend the gray wire prior to mounting the connector in the chassis. Access is tight in its final position. I'm surprised they haven't put a notch in the sheet metal to eliminate the need for this alteration.

73,
Mike K2MK

W2RMS wrote

Hi everyone!
Finally assembled the KAT500 last night.
I never thought i would have this much difficulty with the tuner as opposed to K3/P3.
Those SO-239 lugs are tricky! Especially the XMTR one. I actually ended up using a black screw instead of the zinc one 'cause it just wouldn't fit.
Hoping that KPA500 goes together easier.
And the W2 meter, that i ordered as a kit, came in assembled :-(
I had to take it apart (not fully) and examine what's inside. For me assembling these products is about 3/4 of the fun! I like using them too, but putting them together is something i wait for and savor it :-)
I'm a geek, i guess...
__________________
Slava (Sal) B, W2RMS

NK7Z

Re: K3 assembly photo log.

In reply to this post by Eric Ross

Hi Eric,
Nice log of the build, thanks for sharing!
--
Thanks and 73's,
For equipment, and software setups and reviews see:
www.nk7z.net
for MixW support see;
http://groups.yahoo.com/neo/groups/mixw/info
for Dopplergram information see:
http://groups.yahoo.com/neo/groups/dopplergram/info
for MM-SSTV see:
http://groups.yahoo.com/neo/groups/MM-SSTV/info

On Thu, 2014-06-05 at 21:41 -0700, Eric Ross wrote:

> I did a photo log of my assembly of the K3 (S/N 8312) this last month. I sure enjoyed the build.
>
> https://www.flickr.com/photos/125220397@N06/sets/72157644623374769/
>
> Eric
> wb7sde
>
> ______________________________________________________________
> Elecraft mailing list
> Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft
> Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm
> Post: mailto:[hidden email]
>
> This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net
> Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
> Message delivered to [hidden email]

Mike Reublin

Re: KAT500 assembly

In reply to this post by W2RMS

I power my P3 and PR6-10 from the RCA jack on the P3, using an RCA splitter. If the K3 can supply enough current for your needs, add one more splitter and run all three from there.

73, Mike NF4L

On Jun 6, 2014, at 7:38 AM, Slava Baytalskiy <[hidden email]> wrote:

> Oh, and one question:
> what do people do with all these power cables?
> So K3 has one RCA 1A power outlet on the back, right? And i'm using that for the P3.
> Now i need one for the KAT500 and one for the W2.
> W2 came with a pre-made cable that is meant to go into the K3 (taken by the P3).
> So i'm guessing i'd have to make up a new one and use power poles?
> Looks like KPA500 doesn't have a power socket on the back like the K3, so i can't run anything off of it, right?
> Do you guys just use whatever means of power distribution are available to you (like a power strip of some sort) and hook all these things up to that?
> __________________
> Slava (Sal) B, W2RMS
> [hidden email]
>
> On Jun 6, 2014, at 7:29 AM, Slava Baytalskiy <[hidden email]> wrote:
>
>> Hi everyone!
>> Finally assembled the KAT500 last night.
>> I never thought i would have this much difficulty with the tuner as opposed to K3/P3.
>> Those SO-239 lugs are tricky! Especially the XMTR one. I actually ended up using a black screw instead of the zinc one 'cause it just wouldn't fit.
>> Hoping that KPA500 goes together easier.
>> And the W2 meter, that i ordered as a kit, came in assembled :-(
>> I had to take it apart (not fully) and examine what's inside. For me assembling these products is about 3/4 of the fun! I like using them too, but putting them together is something i wait for and savor it :-)
>> I'm a geek, i guess...
>> __________________
>> Slava (Sal) B, W2RMS
>> [hidden email]
>>
>
> ______________________________________________________________
> Elecraft mailing list
> Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft
> Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm
> Post: mailto:[hidden email]
>
> This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net
> Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
> Message delivered to [hidden email]

Eric Ross

Re: K3 assembly photo log.

In reply to this post by NK7Z

I received the boxes on Thursday and started Friday evening. I was on
the air on Sunday. As you noticed, I had several of the upgrades
installed. The basic turn on was done on Saturday. I probably spent
about 15 hours total but I went real slow to make sure I didn't screw
something up.

Eric
wb7sde

On Fri, Jun 6, 2014, at 05:05 AM, David Cole wrote:

> Hi Eric,
> Nice log of the build, thanks for sharing!
> --
> Thanks and 73's,
> For equipment, and software setups and reviews see:
> www.nk7z.net
> for MixW support see;
> http://groups.yahoo.com/neo/groups/mixw/info
> for Dopplergram information see:
> http://groups.yahoo.com/neo/groups/dopplergram/info
> for MM-SSTV see:
> http://groups.yahoo.com/neo/groups/MM-SSTV/info
>
>
> On Thu, 2014-06-05 at 21:41 -0700, Eric Ross wrote:
> > I did a photo log of my assembly of the K3 (S/N 8312) this last month. I sure enjoyed the build.
> >
> > https://www.flickr.com/photos/125220397@N06/sets/72157644623374769/
> >
> > Eric
> > wb7sde
> >
> > ______________________________________________________________
> > Elecraft mailing list
> > Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft
> > Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm
> > Post: mailto:[hidden email]
> >
> > This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net
> > Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
> > Message delivered to [hidden email]
>
> ______________________________________________________________
> Elecraft mailing list
> Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft
> Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm
> Post: mailto:[hidden email]
>
> This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net
> Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
> Message delivered to [hidden email]

--
Eric Ross
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Brian

Re: K3 assembly photo log.

In reply to this post by Eric Ross

This was so helpful, mere words can't describe!

Thanks Eric.

'73. Brian.

Sent from my iPad

> On 6 Jun 2014, at 05:41, Eric Ross <[hidden email]> wrote:
>
> I did a photo log of my assembly of the K3 (S/N 8312) this last month. I sure enjoyed the build.
>
> https://www.flickr.com/photos/125220397@N06/sets/72157644623374769/
>
> Eric
> wb7sde
>
> ______________________________________________________________
> Elecraft mailing list
> Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft
> Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm
> Post: mailto:[hidden email]
>
> This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net
> Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
> Message delivered to [hidden email]

George Danner

Re: KAT500 assembly

In reply to this post by Mike Reublin

My understanding is the KAT500 will overcurrent the K3 Aux DC output.
The KAT500 specification is 1.5A max (200 mA typ) from my IB (page 2 Rev B3
Nov 20, 2012. The 200 mA should be ok but the 1.5A is greater than the K3 1
amp mod is rated for.

I power my KAT500 from my station power supply. Therefore it comes on prior
to the K3; as required by the KAT500 IB (page 3 item 2 under Elecraft K3
Transceiver and KPA500...).
Also see !IMPORTANT: note on the top of page 10 - "If you are using the
KAT500 with an Elecraft K3 transceiver connected using the DB15 cables as
shown I Figure 1 or Figure 2, you must apply power to the KAT500 before
turning the K3 on.
73
George
AI4VZ

-----Original Message-----
From: Mike Reublin
Sent: Friday, June 6, 2014 11:28 AM
To: Slava Baytalskiy
Cc: Elecraft List
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] KAT500 assembly

I power my P3 and PR6-10 from the RCA jack on the P3, using an RCA splitter.
If the K3 can supply enough current for your needs, add one more splitter
and run all three from there.

73, Mike NF4L

On Jun 6, 2014, at 7:38 AM, Slava Baytalskiy <[hidden email]> wrote:

> Oh, and one question:
> what do people do with all these power cables?

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Don Wilhelm-4

Re: KAT500 assembly

George,

Yes, the current from the K3 12V output is limited to 500 ma. for older
K3s and 1 amp in later K3s. Older K3s can be upgraded with the Elecraft
kit to provide 1 Amp capability.

The KAT500 spec maximum draw is determined by how many relays are being
activated by any particular antenna solution, so I would use the maximum
value for the design point because you do not know which L/C
combinations will be necessary for any particular antenna, and yes that
maximum is greater than what the K2 12V output can supply (even with the
upgrade).

I would suggest that you power your KAT500 directly from your power
supply rather than trying to use the K2 12 volt output.

If you wish to use the K3 12 volt output so the power to the KAT100 (and
other accessories) would be powered on when the K3 is turned on, I would
suggest that you use the K3 12V output to drive a relay, whose contacts
in turn provide power to those accessories (KAT500 included).

Safety note - install fuses in each power cord (near the power source)
with the fuse rated at 1.5 to 3 times the maximum expected current draw
by that device. In-line fuseholders can be obtained an auto parts
store. I prefer the ATC-3 blade type fuses, but YMMV.

73,
Don W3FPR
On 6/6/2014 4:07 PM, GDanner wrote:

> My understanding is the KAT500 will overcurrent the K3 Aux DC output.
> The KAT500 specification is 1.5A max (200 mA typ) from my IB (page 2
> Rev B3 Nov 20, 2012. The 200 mA should be ok but the 1.5A is greater
> than the K3 1 amp mod is rated for.
>
> I power my KAT500 from my station power supply. Therefore it comes on
> prior to the K3; as required by the KAT500 IB (page 3 item 2 under
> Elecraft K3 Transceiver and KPA500...).
> Also see !IMPORTANT: note on the top of page 10 - "If you are using
> the KAT500 with an Elecraft K3 transceiver connected using the DB15
> cables as shown I Figure 1 or Figure 2, you must apply power to the
> KAT500 before turning the K3 on.
> 73
> George
> AI4VZ

Cady, Fred

Re: KAT500 assembly

Don's suggestion of a 12 v relay is a good one but if you don't want to go that route, the rigrunner power pole distribution box with auto outlet turn on (http://www.westmountainradio.com/rigrunner.php) works well. When you turn on the K3 it can turn on 10 other items. I use it to turn on the KAT500, the P3, a KRC2, a W2 and probably other stuff I can't remember.
Cheers,
Fred KE7X

-----Original Message-----
From: Elecraft [mailto:[hidden email]] On Behalf Of Don Wilhelm
Sent: Friday, June 06, 2014 4:50 PM
To: GDanner; Mike Reublin; Slava Baytalskiy
Cc: Elecraft List
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] KAT500 assembly

George,

Yes, the current from the K3 12V output is limited to 500 ma. for older K3s and 1 amp in later K3s. Older K3s can be upgraded with the Elecraft kit to provide 1 Amp capability.

The KAT500 spec maximum draw is determined by how many relays are being activated by any particular antenna solution, so I would use the maximum value for the design point because you do not know which L/C combinations will be necessary for any particular antenna, and yes that maximum is greater than what the K2 12V output can supply (even with the upgrade).

I would suggest that you power your KAT500 directly from your power supply rather than trying to use the K2 12 volt output.

If you wish to use the K3 12 volt output so the power to the KAT100 (and other accessories) would be powered on when the K3 is turned on, I would suggest that you use the K3 12V output to drive a relay, whose contacts in turn provide power to those accessories (KAT500 included).

Safety note - install fuses in each power cord (near the power source) with the fuse rated at 1.5 to 3 times the maximum expected current draw by that device. In-line fuseholders can be obtained an auto parts store. I prefer the ATC-3 blade type fuses, but YMMV.

73,
Don W3FPR
On 6/6/2014 4:07 PM, GDanner wrote:

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Phil Wheeler-2

Re: KAT500 assembly

Hmm .. I thought I read that the KAT500 must be
turned on before the K3. Is that old info?

Phil W7OX

On 6/6/14, 4:05 PM, Cady, Fred wrote:

> Don's suggestion of a 12 v relay is a good one but if you don't want to go that route, the rigrunner power pole distribution box with auto outlet turn on (http://www.westmountainradio.com/rigrunner.php) works well. When you turn on the K3 it can turn on 10 other items. I use it to turn on the KAT500, the P3, a KRC2, a W2 and probably other stuff I can't remember.
> Cheers,
> Fred KE7X
>
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Elecraft [mailto:[hidden email]] On Behalf Of Don Wilhelm
> Sent: Friday, June 06, 2014 4:50 PM
> To: GDanner; Mike Reublin; Slava Baytalskiy
> Cc: Elecraft List
> Subject: Re: [Elecraft] KAT500 assembly
>
> George,
>
> Yes, the current from the K3 12V output is limited to 500 ma. for older K3s and 1 amp in later K3s. Older K3s can be upgraded with the Elecraft kit to provide 1 Amp capability.
>
> The KAT500 spec maximum draw is determined by how many relays are being activated by any particular antenna solution, so I would use the maximum value for the design point because you do not know which L/C combinations will be necessary for any particular antenna, and yes that maximum is greater than what the K2 12V output can supply (even with the upgrade).
>
> I would suggest that you power your KAT500 directly from your power supply rather than trying to use the K2 12 volt output.
>
> If you wish to use the K3 12 volt output so the power to the KAT100 (and other accessories) would be powered on when the K3 is turned on, I would suggest that you use the K3 12V output to drive a relay, whose contacts in turn provide power to those accessories (KAT500 included).
>
> Safety note - install fuses in each power cord (near the power source) with the fuse rated at 1.5 to 3 times the maximum expected current draw by that device. In-line fuseholders can be obtained an auto parts store. I prefer the ATC-3 blade type fuses, but YMMV.
>
> 73,
> Don W3FPR
> On 6/6/2014 4:07 PM, GDanner wrote:
>> My understanding is the KAT500 will overcurrent the K3 Aux DC output.
>> The KAT500 specification is 1.5A max (200 mA typ) from my IB (page 2
>> Rev B3 Nov 20, 2012. The 200 mA should be ok but the 1.5A is greater
>> than the K3 1 amp mod is rated for.
>>
>> I power my KAT500 from my station power supply. Therefore it comes on
>> prior to the K3; as required by the KAT500 IB (page 3 item 2 under
>> Elecraft K3 Transceiver and KPA500...).
>> Also see !IMPORTANT: note on the top of page 10 - "If you are using
>> the KAT500 with an Elecraft K3 transceiver connected using the DB15
>> cables as shown I Figure 1 or Figure 2, you must apply power to the
>> KAT500 before turning the K3 on.
>> 73
>> George
>> AI4VZ

Cady, Fred

Re: KAT500 assembly

That still may be the case, and it sure is for the KRC2, but there seems to be enough delay in the K3 reading the AUXBUS line that turning them on at the same time works OK for me.

-----Original Message-----
From: Phil Wheeler [mailto:[hidden email]]
Sent: Friday, June 06, 2014 5:16 PM
To: Cady, Fred; Elecraft Reflector
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] KAT500 assembly

Hmm .. I thought I read that the KAT500 must be turned on before the K3. Is that old info?

Phil W7OX

On 6/6/14, 4:05 PM, Cady, Fred wrote:

> Don's suggestion of a 12 v relay is a good one but if you don't want to go that route, the rigrunner power pole distribution box with auto outlet turn on (http://www.westmountainradio.com/rigrunner.php) works well. When you turn on the K3 it can turn on 10 other items. I use it to turn on the KAT500, the P3, a KRC2, a W2 and probably other stuff I can't remember.
> Cheers,
> Fred KE7X
>
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Elecraft [mailto:[hidden email]] On Behalf Of
> Don Wilhelm
> Sent: Friday, June 06, 2014 4:50 PM
> To: GDanner; Mike Reublin; Slava Baytalskiy
> Cc: Elecraft List
> Subject: Re: [Elecraft] KAT500 assembly
>
> George,
>
> Yes, the current from the K3 12V output is limited to 500 ma. for older K3s and 1 amp in later K3s. Older K3s can be upgraded with the Elecraft kit to provide 1 Amp capability.
>
> The KAT500 spec maximum draw is determined by how many relays are being activated by any particular antenna solution, so I would use the maximum value for the design point because you do not know which L/C combinations will be necessary for any particular antenna, and yes that maximum is greater than what the K2 12V output can supply (even with the upgrade).
>
> I would suggest that you power your KAT500 directly from your power supply rather than trying to use the K2 12 volt output.
>
> If you wish to use the K3 12 volt output so the power to the KAT100 (and other accessories) would be powered on when the K3 is turned on, I would suggest that you use the K3 12V output to drive a relay, whose contacts in turn provide power to those accessories (KAT500 included).
>
> Safety note - install fuses in each power cord (near the power source) with the fuse rated at 1.5 to 3 times the maximum expected current draw by that device. In-line fuseholders can be obtained an auto parts store. I prefer the ATC-3 blade type fuses, but YMMV.
>
> 73,
> Don W3FPR
> On 6/6/2014 4:07 PM, GDanner wrote:
>> My understanding is the KAT500 will overcurrent the K3 Aux DC output.
>> The KAT500 specification is 1.5A max (200 mA typ) from my IB (page 2
>> Rev B3 Nov 20, 2012. The 200 mA should be ok but the 1.5A is greater
>> than the K3 1 amp mod is rated for.
>>
>> I power my KAT500 from my station power supply. Therefore it comes on
>> prior to the K3; as required by the KAT500 IB (page 3 item 2 under
>> Elecraft K3 Transceiver and KPA500...).
>> Also see !IMPORTANT: note on the top of page 10 - "If you are using
>> the KAT500 with an Elecraft K3 transceiver connected using the DB15
>> cables as shown I Figure 1 or Figure 2, you must apply power to the
>> KAT500 before turning the K3 on.
>> 73
>> George
>> AI4VZ

Phil Wheeler-2

Re: KAT500 assembly

Thanks, Fred. Good to know. I just leave my KAT500 on.

Phil

On 6/6/14, 4:18 PM, Cady, Fred wrote:

> That still may be the case, and it sure is for the KRC2, but there seems to be enough delay in the K3 reading the AUXBUS line that turning them on at the same time works OK for me.
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Phil Wheeler [mailto:[hidden email]]
> Sent: Friday, June 06, 2014 5:16 PM
> To: Cady, Fred; Elecraft Reflector
> Subject: Re: [Elecraft] KAT500 assembly
>
> Hmm .. I thought I read that the KAT500 must be turned on before the K3. Is that old info?
>
> Phil W7OX
>
> On 6/6/14, 4:05 PM, Cady, Fred wrote:
>> Don's suggestion of a 12 v relay is a good one but if you don't want to go that route, the rigrunner power pole distribution box with auto outlet turn on (http://www.westmountainradio.com/rigrunner.php) works well. When you turn on the K3 it can turn on 10 other items. I use it to turn on the KAT500, the P3, a KRC2, a W2 and probably other stuff I can't remember.
>> Cheers,
>> Fred KE7X
>>
>>
>>
>> -----Original Message-----
>> From: Elecraft [mailto:[hidden email]] On Behalf Of
>> Don Wilhelm
>> Sent: Friday, June 06, 2014 4:50 PM
>> To: GDanner; Mike Reublin; Slava Baytalskiy
>> Cc: Elecraft List
>> Subject: Re: [Elecraft] KAT500 assembly
>>
>> George,
>>
>> Yes, the current from the K3 12V output is limited to 500 ma. for older K3s and 1 amp in later K3s. Older K3s can be upgraded with the Elecraft kit to provide 1 Amp capability.
>>
>> The KAT500 spec maximum draw is determined by how many relays are being activated by any particular antenna solution, so I would use the maximum value for the design point because you do not know which L/C combinations will be necessary for any particular antenna, and yes that maximum is greater than what the K2 12V output can supply (even with the upgrade).
>>
>> I would suggest that you power your KAT500 directly from your power supply rather than trying to use the K2 12 volt output.
>>
>> If you wish to use the K3 12 volt output so the power to the KAT100 (and other accessories) would be powered on when the K3 is turned on, I would suggest that you use the K3 12V output to drive a relay, whose contacts in turn provide power to those accessories (KAT500 included).
>>
>> Safety note - install fuses in each power cord (near the power source) with the fuse rated at 1.5 to 3 times the maximum expected current draw by that device. In-line fuseholders can be obtained an auto parts store. I prefer the ATC-3 blade type fuses, but YMMV.
>>
>> 73,
>> Don W3FPR
>> On 6/6/2014 4:07 PM, GDanner wrote:
>>> My understanding is the KAT500 will overcurrent the K3 Aux DC output.
>>> The KAT500 specification is 1.5A max (200 mA typ) from my IB (page 2
>>> Rev B3 Nov 20, 2012. The 200 mA should be ok but the 1.5A is greater
>>> than the K3 1 amp mod is rated for.
>>>
>>> I power my KAT500 from my station power supply. Therefore it comes on
>>> prior to the K3; as required by the KAT500 IB (page 3 item 2 under
>>> Elecraft K3 Transceiver and KPA500...).
>>> Also see !IMPORTANT: note on the top of page 10 - "If you are using
>>> the KAT500 with an Elecraft K3 transceiver connected using the DB15
>>> cables as shown I Figure 1 or Figure 2, you must apply power to the
>>> KAT500 before turning the K3 on.
>>> 73
>>> George
>>> AI4VZ
>

Bill-3

Re: KAT500 assembly

Some place back in time I was told to turn the KAT500 on first, followed
by the KAT500, and then the K3. I still do it this way and have never
had any problems getting things to play well together after initial
turn-on. Unlikely that I would want to change from something that works.

Bill W2BLC K-Line
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Phil Hystad-3

Re: KAT500 assembly

My KAT500 is always on. It is forever on. It is on, and on, and on. Almost never is it off. The only time it is off is when I am out for some extended time period (more than 24 hours) and I throw the master switch that turns everything off. Other than that, the KAT500 with its cute little green LED lights is on. In my shack, when all the other equipment is off, the KAT500 is on. Actually other than the master switch, I am not sure if I have ever turned off the KAT500. I may not know how to turn off the KAT500.

The K3, the KX3, the KX1 are not like the KAT500. They are turned off each night just prior to me climbing up the stairs to the main floor of the house to bed down for the night. I turn off the K3 and KX3. I never turn off the KAT500. I turn off (front panel off) the KPA500. I turn off the lamps in the shack. I put my two Mac computers to sleep (sometimes). I make sure everything is off except for the KAT500s that remain on with their little green LED lights shining thru the night.

Green, green, the lights they shine, those LED lights at night. Green, green, the KAT500 stays on, it stays on thru the night.

73, phil, K7PEH

P.S. you know, each morning when I go to turn on the K3, I find that the KAT500 is already on and ready to do its deed for the day.

On Jun 6, 2014, at 6:26 PM, Bill W2BLC <[hidden email]> wrote:

> Some place back in time I was told to turn the KAT500 on first, followed by the KAT500, and then the K3. I still do it this way and have never had any problems getting things to play well together after initial turn-on. Unlikely that I would want to change from something that works.
>
> Bill W2BLC K-Line
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>
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