K3 eHam review after 2+ years

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Re: K3 eHam review after 2+ years

HowardZ
Julian,  I read your web page about the MFJ 1026 and I think you did an excellent job.  I'm not sure the Miracle Whip type antenna will do a good job down in the 75/80m range - but that was insightful that the noise antenna needs to be tuned to frequency to perform well.

My 320ft one wavelength loop is my daily use antenna for regional work.  But I also have a hustler 5btv vertical with 60 radials for DX work.  I've gone over 6000 miles once with PSK31 with the vertical.  I have the final whip on the vertical pruned just right for the noisy Mars frequency.  The vertical is very poor for the regional work on this frequency because everyone else is using horizontal antennas.  The vertical picks up lots of noise and maybe it will work well as the noise antenna?

I have the SGC amplifier's FAN kit on back order and when it comes in, they'll ship the fan kit along with a new MFJ 1026.  (Hey, I gotta save on the shipping!)

Since I went on-line to the internet around 15 years ago, I decided to maintain anonymity.  It prevents my home from being robbed based on personal information I might accidentally share.  And, if I make an ass of myself from time to time - something I am skilled at - well at least my real name isn't associated with it :) :)

I hold an Amateur Extra class license, and was a VE - that is until I got promoted - lost my Fri/Sat days off and afternoon shift.  We "bid" a few times each year for working hours and days off based on seniority in one's current position.  So I now start work at 4AM and get the undesirable Tue/Wed as regular days off.  (Tue/Wed means no lines in the stores when shopping) But it is not forever.  Things will eventually improve.

Maybe I've been a bit rough on the hardware mods from Elecraft.  It is a good thing to be able to keep up with improvements.

I accidentally melted some plastic inside my IC-91AD performing the MARS mod.  Fortunately only I know where the damage is.  When I Mars modded my IC2200H I came so close to clipping the wrong diodes - it wasn't funny.  But I realized it at the last second.  On other projects I've murdered components by using too much heat.  High heat is a habit from when I used to chip Volkswagen engine computers.  High heat won't usually hurt the one surface mounted chip I had to remove, reprogram, and resolder.  There was always one trace that needed far more heat than the others for a good solder connection - don't know why.  Loved to use 666 degrees F on my soldering iron.  And if perchance it might kill a chip, I always had a few new spare chips around.  I've built a few simple things like a voltage divider attenuator circuit, but I don't really trust myself with a soldering iron (except on VW engine computers - I only ruined one VW computer)

I currently own an ICOM 746Pro.  Universal Radio did the Mars mod for me.  I purchased it in early 2008. I believe I have avoided all the early production unit problems like backlights burning out and TX quitting.  I have the TX audio bass and treble adjusted so well I get unsolicited compliments on my audio.  People ask what microphone I am using and can't believe it when I say its the stock Icom microphone.  I got the COMPressor adjusted so I cut through the Mars Freq noise and often get compliments on my "good signal" - and "Howard's really improved his station - he sounds good" - though one person doesn't like the sound of the compressor-speech.  Well some of those complements might also be from extending my L-Dipole to a 1-Wavelength-loop.  It's only on EasyPal nets that I just can't seem to XMT pictures reliably - and it turns out that all the people who XMT well - they are using 500 or 600 watt amplifiers - this must be a requirement for EasyPal given our current band conditions.  Now I have an amplifier.  So the problem left is just RX noise. noise noise noise.  Maybe a better radio will solve it?  I'm not sure.  I'm going to try the MFJ 1026.

I find it rather undesirable to buy a radio that's still undergoing hardware mods/improvements.  Though I think that after a year or two there should not be any major hardware problems left.

Well, it has been fun entertaining you the past few days.  Perhaps I'll join the K3 owners' club in the near future.

Howard
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Re: K3 Turn on Pop(WAS K3 Audio)

Brett Howard
In reply to this post by Brett Howard
Looks like making C8 a little bigger (like 10uF) would help to reduce
some of the turn on pop that you see on the speakers when powering the
unit on.  There is mention of this on page 17 under "Selecting External
Components" > "Bypass Capacitor Value".  Wonder how difficult fitting
10uF in there will be...  Not sure how big the pads are...

On Sat, 2009-07-04 at 20:32 -0700, Brett Howard wrote:

> A fix for this issue is in the works and I think you'll be quite happy
> with it!
>
> ~Brett
>
> On Sat, 2009-07-04 at 22:45 -0400, E. Tichansky wrote:
> > Unfortunately, there IS a problem w/ CW audio in the K3, at least with
> > both here (see concurrently running thread: K3 Audio Low Pass Filter).  
> > The sidetones generated around the 12 kHz DAC leak-through (+/- sidetone
> > frq., ie. 500Hz)are clearly audible for me and rather annoying, enough
> > so that I had to insert inline low pass audio filters on each radio to
> > knock it down to make CW operation tolerable.  I was in correspondence
> > about the issue back in Oct/Nov of last year w/ Elecraft.
> >
> > Regardless of the "60 db down" and other levels people have measured on
> > those sidetones, I can hear it, even with as low a volume setting of
> > around 9-10 o'clock.  Apparently there are others that can as well.  The
> > majority of folks who own a K3, presumably yourself included, have a
> > reduction or loss of hearing at high frequencies.  From that
> > perspective, the audio is great!  However, not hearing it doesn't
> > necessarily mean there isn't an underlying problem present, and those
> > that wish to fix it aren't doing so out of "desire to tinker and change
> > things."
> >
> > As for SSB/AM, I couldn't comment at length on the audio quality, as I
> > just don't operate or listen up the bands much.  But from limited
> > operation, I'd concur that the audio was fine.
> >
> > 73
> > Eric NO3M
> >
> > Ron D'Eau Claire wrote:
> > > I'm quite happy with the K3's audio as originally designed.
> > >
> > > Other Hams who have heard my K3 and, non Hams too, think it's great. Tuning
> > > in an AM signal and switching between SSB and AM demod has an inaudible
> > > difference in the sound (using the same effective bandwidth).
> > >
> > > As a long-time brass pounder, I am very happy with the audio for CW too.
> > >
> > > That said, I understand and support other fellows' desire to tinker and
> > > change things. I do the same with those things that interest me. But that
> > > should never be interpreted as meaning the K3 has any sort of "audio
> > > problem" in the original design.
> > >
> > > Of course, future designs from Elecraft and others will offer features or
> > > specifications that exceed the K3's specifications today, just at some of
> > > the great rigs of years ago can't match the spec.s of a K2 or K3.
> > >
> > > But that does not make those rigs any less a joy to use for a great many
> > > Hams.
> > >
> > > 73,
> > >
> > > Ron AC7AC
> > >  
> >
> > ______________________________________________________________
> > Elecraft mailing list
> > Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft
> > Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm
> > Post: mailto:[hidden email]
> >
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>

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Re: K3 Turn on Pop(WAS K3 Audio)

P.B. Christensen
> Looks like making C8 a little bigger (like 10uF) would help to reduce
> some of the turn on pop that you see on the speakers when powering the
> unit on.  There is mention of this on page 17 under "Selecting External
> Components" > "Bypass Capacitor Value".

A couple thoughts...

First, that may, or may not be the only area contributing to the pop.
Secondly, the LM4950's click/pop artifact is also a function of the Cin
value in addition to the Cb value.  National recommends a Cin value no
larger than 0.39 uF whereas the K3's Cin is 0.47 uF through 20K of series R.
With the exception of this slight Cin value difference, the K3 uses nearly
the identical input structure as shown in Figure 2 of the datasheet.  I
doubt it makes much a difference but experimenting is the only real way to
know.

>From the datasheet, the only internal workings of the chip are shown with a
block diagram where Cb controls a bias block.  I would presume that making
Cb in larger would have the effect of keeping the amp off longer until
stabilized.  Just a guess though...

In a recent firmware release, I believe the K3's power-on pop was minimized
although I still hear it on my K3.  Another possibility is to use an
outboard R/C time-delay relay (set for 1-2 sec), and powered by the rig's
rear panel aux power connector. That would mimic the manner in which the
classic '60s and '70s audiophile amplifiers and receivers accomplished the
pop muting at power-up.  Speaker audio from the K3 would then route to the
relay contacts before heading off toward the speaker.  Mission accomplished
and no internal mods to the rig.

Paul, W9AC

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Re: K3 Turn on Pop(WAS K3 Audio)

KK7P
> Looks like making C8 a little bigger (like 10uF) would help to reduce
> some of the turn on pop that you see on the speakers when powering the
> unit on...

This capacitor value also affects the behavior of the speaker amplifier
when headphones are inserted/removed.  The present value was arrived at
after a lot of testing with the Field Test group prior to product release.

Many years ago I developed the habit of always turning AF Gain to
minimum when I turn any radio off in my ham shack (or media room,
or...), and ensuring it is low before turning any radio on.  Like
wearing a seat belt, it's probably not necessary -- but then comes the
one time you're glad you did :-)

73,

Lyle KK7P

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Re: K3 Turn on Pop(WAS K3 Audio)

Brett Howard
In reply to this post by P.B. Christensen
Yea I remember having to add relays to our amps when I was working at
Phoenix Gold to kill the TINIEST of pops!  The sales guys would put the
speaker up to their ear and if they heard ANYTHING it was too loud...  I
found another really good way to pass is to accidentally have music
playing on the first test...  So then BOOM music comes out really loud
right into their ear... Then just say oh oops forgot that was on...
Then test it again once their ear drum is slightly compressed and they
tend to not be able to hear the faint ones! :)

Yea I was just thinking that that cap would effectively do the same
thing in holding the amp off until the pop was done past....  Not sure
why the head phone amp would affect that...  Usually the turning on/off
of the speaker output is so slow in relation to the headphones that
seems surprising that cap would affect that...

Hrm.  Oh well.  I do think that the audio section would benefit from a
rejiggering of quite a few of those caps for more LF.  I think even
beyond the page you wrote up that there may even be a few more that
would be helpful...  Also kinda wish I had another radio so I could
listen to the mic audio and see if I felt like the additional LF was
needed there.

Anyway thanks for your input!

~Brett

On Tue, 2009-07-07 at 08:58 -0400, Paul Christensen wrote:

> > Looks like making C8 a little bigger (like 10uF) would help to reduce
> > some of the turn on pop that you see on the speakers when powering the
> > unit on.  There is mention of this on page 17 under "Selecting External
> > Components" > "Bypass Capacitor Value".
>
> A couple thoughts...
>
> First, that may, or may not be the only area contributing to the pop.
> Secondly, the LM4950's click/pop artifact is also a function of the Cin
> value in addition to the Cb value.  National recommends a Cin value no
> larger than 0.39 uF whereas the K3's Cin is 0.47 uF through 20K of series R.
> With the exception of this slight Cin value difference, the K3 uses nearly
> the identical input structure as shown in Figure 2 of the datasheet.  I
> doubt it makes much a difference but experimenting is the only real way to
> know.
>
> From the datasheet, the only internal workings of the chip are shown with a
> block diagram where Cb controls a bias block.  I would presume that making
> Cb in larger would have the effect of keeping the amp off longer until
> stabilized.  Just a guess though...
>
> In a recent firmware release, I believe the K3's power-on pop was minimized
> although I still hear it on my K3.  Another possibility is to use an
> outboard R/C time-delay relay (set for 1-2 sec), and powered by the rig's
> rear panel aux power connector. That would mimic the manner in which the
> classic '60s and '70s audiophile amplifiers and receivers accomplished the
> pop muting at power-up.  Speaker audio from the K3 would then route to the
> relay contacts before heading off toward the speaker.  Mission accomplished
> and no internal mods to the rig.
>
> Paul, W9AC
>

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Re: K3 Turn on Pop(WAS K3 Audio)

P.B. Christensen
> Hrm.  Oh well.  I do think that the audio section would benefit from a
> rejiggering of quite a few of those caps for more LF.

On the Rx side, there's not much left to consider after the DAC --at least
what I can see on the schematic.  The circuit path is pretty darn simple.
However, the cap fix we've been discussing is really only part of the cure
toward establishing a flat low-end receive response to 100 Hz or a bit
below.  I still see the same effect as measured by Alexander in his link
below:

http://forum.cqham.ru/download.php?id=44172

There's additional low-end roll-off not attributed to the coupling C after
the DAC (again, based on what I see on the schematic).  So, the question is
"what is causing the remaining roll-off starting around 400 Hz?"  To
compensate for what Alexander and I are measuring, I need to boost the Rx EQ
Band 2 by about +10 dB to get something remotely close to flat between
100-200 Hz.  Also, I do not see where Band 1 (50Hz) changes the receive
audio response.  It's almost as if it's deactivated or something in the
analog and/or digital path is causing a sharp HP effect above 50Hz.  No
amount of cut or boost on Band 1 brings about change on my K3.

On the TX side, there are additional C values (or if you prefer, R values),
that can be scaled to your liking.  I've discussed some of those component
size changes on the N1EU website.  Also, I believe the newer main K3 DSP
Boards may now have re-scaled R values along parts of the affected Tx path.

Paul, W9AC

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Value of a K2?

KM6XZ
Hello Kx'ers
I have a K2 I built as a kit here on a kitchen table with the ATU, SSB
module, 160/RX module, 10 w version. I return to the US for a few weeks in
early September. If I could sell it, I would love to get the basic K3. My K2
has an early 1900s serial number if I remember( I got it as an older
un-built kit in trade from my pristine TenTec Paragon).
It has most of the mods to date and works fine. It has actually been used
very little, mostly just to listen since I have a poor wire antenna in the
city center of large electrically noisy city. Even with the poor ant.  

What is the going price nowadays?

Another question. How large is the un-built kit's box? I would probably want
to assemble it here when I return in come back in mid September.

Thanks
Stan R2\KM6XZ
St Petersburg Russia


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Re: K3 Turn on Pop(WAS K3 Audio)

Brett Howard
In reply to this post by P.B. Christensen
I was hoping that there was a bit more in the line out and what not.  I've
also noticed that the bottom EQ band does absolutely nothing but I'd kinda
hoped that was part of the 470uF caps in the speaker out lines...

I also noticed that there were 10uF caps on the line out but being that most
of whats going to be plugged in there is going to be relatively high
impedance that's probably ok...

Yes actually I was just hearing about almost 30 discrete value changes on
the main DSP board...  I've also been told that Elecraft can exchange your
older boards out... You pay 50 bucks and they ship a new board to you.  Then
if you ship back your old one you don't get charged full price for the new
board.

~Brett

-----Original Message-----
From: Paul Christensen [mailto:[hidden email]]
Sent: Tuesday, July 07, 2009 9:40 AM
To: Brett Howard
Cc: [hidden email]
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] K3 Turn on Pop(WAS K3 Audio)

> Hrm.  Oh well.  I do think that the audio section would benefit from a
> rejiggering of quite a few of those caps for more LF.

On the Rx side, there's not much left to consider after the DAC --at least
what I can see on the schematic.  The circuit path is pretty darn simple.
However, the cap fix we've been discussing is really only part of the cure
toward establishing a flat low-end receive response to 100 Hz or a bit
below.  I still see the same effect as measured by Alexander in his link
below:

http://forum.cqham.ru/download.php?id=44172

There's additional low-end roll-off not attributed to the coupling C after
the DAC (again, based on what I see on the schematic).  So, the question is
"what is causing the remaining roll-off starting around 400 Hz?"  To
compensate for what Alexander and I are measuring, I need to boost the Rx EQ

Band 2 by about +10 dB to get something remotely close to flat between
100-200 Hz.  Also, I do not see where Band 1 (50Hz) changes the receive
audio response.  It's almost as if it's deactivated or something in the
analog and/or digital path is causing a sharp HP effect above 50Hz.  No
amount of cut or boost on Band 1 brings about change on my K3.

On the TX side, there are additional C values (or if you prefer, R values),
that can be scaled to your liking.  I've discussed some of those component
size changes on the N1EU website.  Also, I believe the newer main K3 DSP
Boards may now have re-scaled R values along parts of the affected Tx path.

Paul, W9AC


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Re: K3 Turn on Pop(WAS K3 Audio)

pd0psb
Brett,

Is this an exchange/upgrade to the current DSP board?
Or did I miss something?

73'
Paul
PD0PSB




Yes actually I was just hearing about almost 30 discrete value changes on
the main DSP board...  I've also been told that Elecraft can exchange your
older boards out... You pay 50 bucks and they ship a new board to you.  Then
if you ship back your old one you don't get charged full price for the new
board.
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Re: K3 Turn on Pop(WAS K3 Audio)

Brett Howard
Well let's put it this way... I tried to order 100uF caps for my headphone
circuit and they told me that they can't send me those but they would allow
me to replace my mainDSP board (and exchange) for $50 USD.  This was of
course providing that I was certain to get my current board back to them.

-----Original Message-----
From: [hidden email]
[mailto:[hidden email]] On Behalf Of pd0psb
Sent: Tuesday, July 07, 2009 12:24 PM
To: [hidden email]
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] K3 Turn on Pop(WAS K3 Audio)


Brett,

Is this an exchange/upgrade to the current DSP board?
Or did I miss something?

73'
Paul
PD0PSB




Yes actually I was just hearing about almost 30 discrete value changes on
the main DSP board...  I've also been told that Elecraft can exchange your
older boards out... You pay 50 bucks and they ship a new board to you.  Then
if you ship back your old one you don't get charged full price for the new
board.

--
View this message in context:
http://n2.nabble.com/K3-eHam-review-after-2%2B-years-tp3202931p3221379.html
Sent from the Elecraft mailing list archive at Nabble.com.
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Re: K3 Turn on Pop(WAS K3 Audio)

Brett Howard
I just took a closer look at the email that I received and it said if I was
interested to call the factory for this special order.  I'm not sure if that
means that it's special because it's not normal or if it was special to me.
But it's at least worth mentioning not to push if it isn't a common thing
that Elecraft does then it isn't a common thing that they do and they were
consistent in their stating things in that manner.

-----Original Message-----
From: Brett Howard [mailto:[hidden email]]
Sent: Tuesday, July 07, 2009 12:40 PM
To: 'pd0psb'; [hidden email]
Subject: RE: [Elecraft] K3 Turn on Pop(WAS K3 Audio)

Well let's put it this way... I tried to order 100uF caps for my headphone
circuit and they told me that they can't send me those but they would allow
me to replace my mainDSP board (and exchange) for $50 USD.  This was of
course providing that I was certain to get my current board back to them.

-----Original Message-----
From: [hidden email]
[mailto:[hidden email]] On Behalf Of pd0psb
Sent: Tuesday, July 07, 2009 12:24 PM
To: [hidden email]
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] K3 Turn on Pop(WAS K3 Audio)


Brett,

Is this an exchange/upgrade to the current DSP board?
Or did I miss something?

73'
Paul
PD0PSB




Yes actually I was just hearing about almost 30 discrete value changes on
the main DSP board...  I've also been told that Elecraft can exchange your
older boards out... You pay 50 bucks and they ship a new board to you.  Then
if you ship back your old one you don't get charged full price for the new
board.

--
View this message in context:
http://n2.nabble.com/K3-eHam-review-after-2%2B-years-tp3202931p3221379.html
Sent from the Elecraft mailing list archive at Nabble.com.
______________________________________________________________
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Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html


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Re: K3 Turn on Pop(WAS K3 Audio)

Steve Ellington
er huh?
Steve
N4LQ
[hidden email]
----- Original Message -----
From: "Brett Howard" <[hidden email]>
To: "'Brett Howard'" <[hidden email]>; "'pd0psb'"
<[hidden email]>; <[hidden email]>
Sent: Tuesday, July 07, 2009 4:01 PM
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] K3 Turn on Pop(WAS K3 Audio)


>I just took a closer look at the email that I received and it said if I was
> interested to call the factory for this special order.  I'm not sure if
> that
> means that it's special because it's not normal or if it was special to
> me.
> But it's at least worth mentioning not to push if it isn't a common thing
> that Elecraft does then it isn't a common thing that they do and they were
> consistent in their stating things in that manner.
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Brett Howard [mailto:[hidden email]]
> Sent: Tuesday, July 07, 2009 12:40 PM
> To: 'pd0psb'; [hidden email]
> Subject: RE: [Elecraft] K3 Turn on Pop(WAS K3 Audio)
>
> Well let's put it this way... I tried to order 100uF caps for my headphone
> circuit and they told me that they can't send me those but they would
> allow
> me to replace my mainDSP board (and exchange) for $50 USD.  This was of
> course providing that I was certain to get my current board back to them.
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: [hidden email]
> [mailto:[hidden email]] On Behalf Of pd0psb
> Sent: Tuesday, July 07, 2009 12:24 PM
> To: [hidden email]
> Subject: Re: [Elecraft] K3 Turn on Pop(WAS K3 Audio)
>
>
> Brett,
>
> Is this an exchange/upgrade to the current DSP board?
> Or did I miss something?
>
> 73'
> Paul
> PD0PSB
>
>
>
>
> Yes actually I was just hearing about almost 30 discrete value changes on
> the main DSP board...  I've also been told that Elecraft can exchange your
> older boards out... You pay 50 bucks and they ship a new board to you.
> Then
> if you ship back your old one you don't get charged full price for the new
> board.
>
> --
> View this message in context:
> http://n2.nabble.com/K3-eHam-review-after-2%2B-years-tp3202931p3221379.html
> Sent from the Elecraft mailing list archive at Nabble.com.
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Re: K3 Turn on Pop(WAS K3 Audio)

K2QI
In reply to this post by Brett Howard

Hello all,

Sorry if I missed the context of the original discussion, but I came across
this email as my K3 also exhibits a loud pop noise when turning on.  Is it
to my understanding that there's something amiss with the current DSP design
or audio section that causes this to happen?  I'm assuming then that my rig
isn't the only one doing this?

Could someone please recap this for me?  I've been having some issues with
email, and I can't seem to locate the original posting regarding this
problem.

73 de James K2QI

-----Original Message-----
From: [hidden email]
[mailto:[hidden email]] On Behalf Of Brett Howard
Sent: Tuesday, July 07, 2009 4:02 PM
To: 'Brett Howard'; 'pd0psb'; [hidden email]
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] K3 Turn on Pop(WAS K3 Audio)

I just took a closer look at the email that I received and it said if I was
interested to call the factory for this special order.  I'm not sure if that
means that it's special because it's not normal or if it was special to me.
But it's at least worth mentioning not to push if it isn't a common thing
that Elecraft does then it isn't a common thing that they do and they were
consistent in their stating things in that manner.

-----Original Message-----
From: Brett Howard [mailto:[hidden email]]
Sent: Tuesday, July 07, 2009 12:40 PM
To: 'pd0psb'; [hidden email]
Subject: RE: [Elecraft] K3 Turn on Pop(WAS K3 Audio)

Well let's put it this way... I tried to order 100uF caps for my headphone
circuit and they told me that they can't send me those but they would allow
me to replace my mainDSP board (and exchange) for $50 USD.  This was of
course providing that I was certain to get my current board back to them.

-----Original Message-----
From: [hidden email]
[mailto:[hidden email]] On Behalf Of pd0psb
Sent: Tuesday, July 07, 2009 12:24 PM
To: [hidden email]
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] K3 Turn on Pop(WAS K3 Audio)


Brett,

Is this an exchange/upgrade to the current DSP board?
Or did I miss something?

73'
Paul
PD0PSB



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Re: K3 Turn on Pop(WAS K3 Audio)

KK7P
> Sorry if I missed the context of the original discussion, but I came across
> this email as my K3 also exhibits a loud pop noise when turning on...

The K3 audio amplifier has a characteristic that results in a "pop" when
  power is cycled.  This is normal; it has been present from the first
units.

73,

Lyle KK7P

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Re: K3 Turn on Pop(WAS K3 Audio)

K2QI
FB Lyle, thanks for the reply.  I saw something about Aptos offering to
replace DSP boards for a nominal cost plus return of the old board, and
started wondering if there was some sort of defect I wasn't aware of.

73 de James K2QI

-----Original Message-----
From: [hidden email]
[mailto:[hidden email]] On Behalf Of Lyle Johnson
Sent: Tuesday, July 07, 2009 8:36 PM
To: [hidden email]
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] K3 Turn on Pop(WAS K3 Audio)

> Sorry if I missed the context of the original discussion, but I came
across
> this email as my K3 also exhibits a loud pop noise when turning on...

The K3 audio amplifier has a characteristic that results in a "pop" when
  power is cycled.  This is normal; it has been present from the first
units.

73,

Lyle KK7P

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Re: K3 Turn on Pop(WAS K3 Audio)

AC7AC
In reply to this post by KK7P
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Re: K3 Turn on Pop(WAS K3 Audio)

Bob Nielsen-2
Maybe that's why the old AM radios had the power switch linked to the  
volume control :)

Bob, N7XY
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