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K3 going mobile?

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Robert Klein-3

K3 going mobile?

I have a K3/100, no sub-receiver.

I do not find anything in the K3 manual, on the Elecraft website or that I
recall seeing on this reflector regarding mobile use of the K3. All that I
find in the manual is, ³12 VDC IN jack is an Anderson PowerPole connector
rated at 30 amps. (See Specifications, pg.8, for detailed power
requirements.)² and ³13.8 V nominal (11 V min, 15 V max). 17-22 A typical in
TX for K3/100, 3-4 A typical in TX for K3/10. 0.9A typical RX (less sub
receiver). Recommended supply: 13.8VDC @ 25A, continuous duty for K3/100;
13.8VDC @ 6A for K3/10. For best results, use the supplied 5 foot (1.53 m)
power cable.²

I take long road trips several times a month and would love to be able to
use my K3 along the way. Can I assume by the lack of information that this
is not recommended? Of course, I don¹t want to something that would damage
the unit or void the warranty.

If I were to do this, I would expect to wire directly to the battery (not
through the fuse panel) with fuses in both leads (how many amps, 25?). Will
I need some kind of choke or filter to avoid engine noise? Anything else I
should know or that you fine folks could suggest will be most appreciated?

Thanks,

Robert
KI4ZHF
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Don Wilhelm-4

Re: K3 going mobile?

Robert,

I do not believe that the lack of 'mobile specific' information in th
eK3 manual means that it is not recommended.

Just observe the normal mobile mounting safety guidelines to assure your
driving safety and that of your passengers and other drivers,
pedestrians, etc. Make good connections directly to the battery as you
have indicated. I would suggest putting 30 amp fuses in the lines (near
the battery) based on my own 'rule of thumb' that the fuse should be
about 1.5 times the highest peak current draw.

Put a good mobile antenna on it and enjoy your K3 mobile installation.

Engine noise and other related questions I cannot answer, perhaps your
vehicle dealer can provide some insight or the experience of others with
a mobile installation in the same or similar vehicle.

73,
Don W3FPR

Robert Klein wrote:

> I have a K3/100, no sub-receiver.
>
> I do not find anything in the K3 manual, on the Elecraft website or that I
> recall seeing on this reflector regarding mobile use of the K3. All that I
> find in the manual is, ³12 VDC IN jack is an Anderson PowerPole connector
> rated at 30 amps. (See Specifications, pg.8, for detailed power
> requirements.)² and ³13.8 V nominal (11 V min, 15 V max). 17-22 A typical in
> TX for K3/100, 3-4 A typical in TX for K3/10. 0.9A typical RX (less sub
> receiver). Recommended supply: 13.8VDC @ 25A, continuous duty for K3/100;
> 13.8VDC @ 6A for K3/10. For best results, use the supplied 5 foot (1.53 m)
> power cable.²
>
> I take long road trips several times a month and would love to be able to
> use my K3 along the way. Can I assume by the lack of information that this
> is not recommended? Of course, I don¹t want to something that would damage
> the unit or void the warranty.
>
> If I were to do this, I would expect to wire directly to the battery (not
> through the fuse panel) with fuses in both leads (how many amps, 25?). Will
> I need some kind of choke or filter to avoid engine noise? Anything else I
> should know or that you fine folks could suggest will be most appreciated?
>
> Thanks,
>
> Robert
> KI4ZHF
>
>

Steve Ellington

Re: K3 going mobile?

I recommend a 43' mobile antenna for that K3.
Steve Ellington
[hidden email]
----- Original Message -----
From: "Don Wilhelm" <[hidden email]>
To: "Robert Klein" <[hidden email]>
Cc: <[hidden email]>
Sent: Monday, March 16, 2009 5:16 PM
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] K3 going mobile?

Robert,

I do not believe that the lack of 'mobile specific' information in th
eK3 manual means that it is not recommended.

Just observe the normal mobile mounting safety guidelines to assure your
driving safety and that of your passengers and other drivers,
pedestrians, etc. Make good connections directly to the battery as you
have indicated. I would suggest putting 30 amp fuses in the lines (near
the battery) based on my own 'rule of thumb' that the fuse should be
about 1.5 times the highest peak current draw.

Put a good mobile antenna on it and enjoy your K3 mobile installation.

Engine noise and other related questions I cannot answer, perhaps your
vehicle dealer can provide some insight or the experience of others with
a mobile installation in the same or similar vehicle.

73,
Don W3FPR

Robert Klein wrote:

> I have a K3/100, no sub-receiver.
>
> I do not find anything in the K3 manual, on the Elecraft website or that I
> recall seeing on this reflector regarding mobile use of the K3. All that
> I
> find in the manual is, ³12 VDC IN jack is an Anderson PowerPole connector
> rated at 30 amps. (See Specifications, pg.8, for detailed power
> requirements.)² and ³13.8 V nominal (11 V min, 15 V max). 17-22 A typical
> in
> TX for K3/100, 3-4 A typical in TX for K3/10. 0.9A typical RX (less sub
> receiver). Recommended supply: 13.8VDC @ 25A, continuous duty for K3/100;
> 13.8VDC @ 6A for K3/10. For best results, use the supplied 5 foot (1.53 m)
> power cable.²
>
> I take long road trips several times a month and would love to be able to
> use my K3 along the way. Can I assume by the lack of information that
> this
> is not recommended? Of course, I don¹t want to something that would
> damage
> the unit or void the warranty.
>
> If I were to do this, I would expect to wire directly to the battery (not
> through the fuse panel) with fuses in both leads (how many amps, 25?).
> Will
> I need some kind of choke or filter to avoid engine noise? Anything else
> I
> should know or that you fine folks could suggest will be most appreciated?
>
> Thanks,
>
> Robert
> KI4ZHF
>
>

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J. Heide

Re: K3 going mobile?

In reply to this post by Robert Klein-3

Robert,

I have used my K3 mobile a few times. Be sure you have a good, heavy power lead that goes directly to the battery with the proper fuse near the battery. If you are going to run mobile for the long term, maybe install some Jack Nuts (like Molly bolts in drywall, but for metal) and fabricate a bracket. See if there is a tech bulletin from your car's maker on mobile radio installations. They might have some warnings on where to run antenna cable. Be sure you use a high quality double shielded antenna cable. I oversee radio installations in patrol cars, and keeping he RF where you want it is important. I can't tell you how the K3 noise blanker works on ignition noise...My car is Diesel.

Josh K6ZRX

Robert Klein wrote:

> > I have a K3/100, no sub-receiver.
> >
> > I do not find anything in the K3 manual, on the Elecraft website or that I
> > recall seeing on this reflector regarding mobile use of the K3. All that I
> > find in the manual is, ³12 VDC IN jack is an Anderson PowerPole connector
> > rated at 30 amps. (See Specifications, pg.8, for detailed power
> > requirements.)² and ³13.8 V nominal (11 V min, 15 V max). 17-22 A typical in
> > TX for K3/100, 3-4 A typical in TX for K3/10. 0.9A typical RX (less sub
> > receiver). Recommended supply: 13.8VDC @ 25A, continuous duty for K3/100;
> > 13.8VDC @ 6A for K3/10. For best results, use the supplied 5 foot (1.53 m)
> > power cable.²
> >
> > I take long road trips several times a month and would love to be able to
> > use my K3 along the way. Can I assume by the lack of information that this
> > is not recommended? Of course, I don¹t want to something that would damage
> > the unit or void the warranty.
> >
> > If I were to do this, I would expect to wire directly to the battery (not
> > through the fuse panel) with fuses in both leads (how many amps, 25?). Will
> > I need some kind of choke or filter to avoid engine noise? Anything else I
> > should know or that you fine folks could suggest will be most appreciated?
> >
> > Thanks,
> >
> > Robert
> > KI4ZHF

WILLIS COOKE

Re: K3 going mobile?

In reply to this post by Robert Klein-3

I am a bit worried about the package for mobile mounting. With the side panels attached with six very small screws there is a limited amount of stress they will handle. Also, there are voltage regulators attached to one of the side panels which limit the attachment possibilities. Elecraft have not offered a mobile mount, probably for good reason and as far as I have seen they have not shared the reason. I am thinking that something involving a band around the case might be appropriate, but difficult to fabricate without good bending tools and expensive to mass fabricate. It may be that Mobile use is not all that easy with the K3.

Willis 'Cookie' Cooke
K5EWJ

--- On Mon, 3/16/09, Robert Klein <[hidden email]> wrote:

> From: Robert Klein <[hidden email]>
> Subject: Re: [Elecraft] K3 going mobile?
> To: [hidden email]
> Date: Monday, March 16, 2009, 5:45 PM
> Thank you. Excellent advice. If find a good mounting unit,
> please share.
>
> 73,
> Robert
>
>
> On 3/16/09 6:50 PM, "WILLIS COOKE"
> <[hidden email]> wrote:
>
> >
> > The first problem is to figure out a mount for the
> radio. It is pretty hard
> > to mobile with the radio not firmly mounted. I have
> looked around for a
> > suitable commercial mount, but I have not found one
> yet. The TS-440 mount is
> > close, but is at least 1/8 inch too narrow. I was
> looking for a mount when I
> > found the TS-440 at a good price and decided to mount
> it in the mobile. Less
> > value for theives!
> >
> > I would hook up the radio and try it before I looked
> for noise. You might be
> > lucky and what you need to do depends on your choice
> of vehicle. Usually the
> > first thing to try is bonding the tailpipe to the
> chassis near the back of the
> > vehicle. The exhaust system is a good radiator for
> whatever noise the engine
> > produces. I have not needed any alternator filter on
> the mobiles that I have
> > built. Often grounding the tailpipe is enough.
> >
> > I am using an MFJ 1620 knockoff of a ham stick for an
> antenna on a radio shack
> > ball mount that I pulled off my 1970 truck. I see a
> lot of the $500
> > screwdriver antennas, but I hate to pay more for the
> antenna than I paid for
> > the radio. So far, I have worked East Coast and West
> Coast as well as Alaska
> > with my $20 antenna.
> >
> > You are right on with your power hookup. Use at least
> 25 amp fuses, but I
> > would not argue much with the 30 amp suggestion, but
> be sure to fuse both
> > leads as near the battery as you can manage.
> >
> > Willis 'Cookie' Cooke
> > K5EWJ
> >
> >
> > --- On Mon, 3/16/09, Robert Klein
> <[hidden email]> wrote:
> >
> >> From: Robert Klein <[hidden email]>
> >> Subject: [Elecraft] K3 going mobile?
> >> To: [hidden email]
> >> Date: Monday, March 16, 2009, 2:04 PM
> >> I have a K3/100, no sub-receiver.
> >>
> >> I do not find anything in the K3 manual, on the
> Elecraft
> >> website or that I
> >> recall seeing on this reflector regarding mobile
> use of the
> >> K3. All that I
> >> find in the manual is, ³12 VDC IN jack is an
> Anderson
> >> PowerPole connector
> >> rated at 30 amps. (See Specifications, pg.8, for
> detailed
> >> power
> >> requirements.)² and ³13.8 V nominal (11 V min,
> 15 V max).
> >> 17-22 A typical in
> >> TX for K3/100, 3-4 A typical in TX for K3/10. 0.9A
> typical
> >> RX (less sub
> >> receiver). Recommended supply: 13.8VDC @ 25A,
> continuous
> >> duty for K3/100;
> >> 13.8VDC @ 6A for K3/10. For best results, use the
> supplied
> >> 5 foot (1.53 m)
> >> power cable.²
> >>
> >> I take long road trips several times a month and
> would love
> >> to be able to
> >> use my K3 along the way. Can I assume by the lack
> of
> >> information that this
> >> is not recommended? Of course, I don¹t want to
> something
> >> that would damage
> >> the unit or void the warranty.
> >>
> >> If I were to do this, I would expect to wire
> directly to
> >> the battery (not
> >> through the fuse panel) with fuses in both leads
> (how many
> >> amps, 25?). Will
> >> I need some kind of choke or filter to avoid
> engine noise?
> >> Anything else I
> >> should know or that you fine folks could suggest
> will be
> >> most appreciated?
> >>
> >> Thanks,
> >>
> >> Robert
> >> KI4ZHF
> >>
> ______________________________________________________________
> >> Elecraft mailing list
> >> Home:
> http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft
> >> Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm
> >> Post: mailto:[hidden email]
> >>
> >> This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net
> >> Please help support this email list:
> >> http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
> >

Jim Brown-10

Re: K3 going mobile?

In reply to this post by J. Heide

On Mon, 16 Mar 2009 14:54:59 -0700 (PDT), J. Heide wrote:

>I oversee radio installations in patrol cars, and keeping he RF
>where you want it is important.

Achieving That can be a VERY different matter at HF than at VHF,
thanks to the wavelengths involved. The body of the vehicle is the
other half of the antenna, so it carries a lot of RF current. Thanks
to the excessive use of pain, the body of some (many?) modern
vehicles has LOUSY electrical integrity, so at HF, that current
establishes some rather substantial potential differences from one
point on the body to another, which in turn can cause some very
"interesting" results. At 100 watts on 20M, the computer in my
Toyota Sequoia (big SUV) locked up thanks to that antenna current.

On the other hand, once I bonded the license plate mount to the
trunk lid of my Volvo S80 and bonded around the trunk hinges, I had
no serious issues with that vehicle.

I would expect a K3 to be a very good mobile rig once you work out a
way to mount it. I've happily used a TS850, IC746, and Ten Tec Omni
in various vehicles. I also used an FT100D, but the RX was so lousy
I hated it.

73,

Jim K9YC

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Lennart Michaëlsson

K3 going mobile?

I have used my K3 a number of times operating mobile but not on the run.
That means I let the rig stand on the floor and bring it up when my car is
holding. The performance is very good with a direct connection to the car
battery, fuses in both + and - for obvious reasons.
No interference to or from the car (a Volvo XC70) with the battery hidden
below "deck in the aft cabin".
Len SM7BIC

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Ignacy

Re: K3 going mobile?

The only minus of K2 IMHO in mobile environments is size. Otherwise it seems be less immune to RF and with excellent speech processor it should offer average power 2-4 times higher than mobile radios. Also if you have AT, it may help with fast adjustments within the band.

Instead of using heavy wires it may be sufficient to the cigarette plug with the MFJ conditioner, which contains supercapacitors. Much less hassle.

Ignacy

Terry Schieler

Re: K3 going mobile?

In reply to this post by J. Heide

Perhaps Elecraft or a machinist would consider offering optional left and
right side panels for the K3 that are drilled and tapped to accept a mobile
mounting bracket. Painted to match, of course.

73 de Terry, W0FM

Robert Klein wrote:
> > I have a K3/100, no sub-receiver.
> >
> > I do not find anything in the K3 manual, on the Elecraft website or that
I
> > recall seeing on this reflector regarding mobile use of the K3. All
that I
> > find in the manual is, ³12 VDC IN jack is an Anderson PowerPole
connector
> > rated at 30 amps. (See Specifications, pg.8, for detailed power
> > requirements.)² and ³13.8 V nominal (11 V min, 15 V max). 17-22 A
typical in
> > TX for K3/100, 3-4 A typical in TX for K3/10. 0.9A typical RX (less sub
> > receiver). Recommended supply: 13.8VDC @ 25A, continuous duty for
K3/100;
> > 13.8VDC @ 6A for K3/10. For best results, use the supplied 5 foot (1.53
m)
> > power cable.²
> >
> > I take long road trips several times a month and would love to be able
to
> > use my K3 along the way. Can I assume by the lack of information that
this
> > is not recommended? Of course, I don¹t want to something that would
damage
> > the unit or void the warranty.
> >
> > If I were to do this, I would expect to wire directly to the battery
(not
> > through the fuse panel) with fuses in both leads (how many amps, 25?).
Will
> > I need some kind of choke or filter to avoid engine noise? Anything
else I
> > should know or that you fine folks could suggest will be most
appreciated?
> >
> > Thanks,
> >
> > Robert
> > KI4ZHF

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Jim Brown-10

Re: K3 going mobile?

In reply to this post by Ignacy

On Tue, 17 Mar 2009 05:35:54 -0700 (PDT), Ignacy wrote:

>Instead of using heavy wires it may be sufficient to the cigarette plug with
>the MFJ conditioner, which contains supercapacitors. Much less hassle.

This is a really bad idea. Going straight to the battery with a pair of big,
short, wires is the right way to do it. Anything else is asking for big
trouble. TWISTING the pairs is even better!

73,

Jim Brown K9YC

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Ignacy

Re: K3 going mobile?

With the conditioner the radio draws only an average power while the conditioner delivers the peak power. Same concept as with HPS-1A power supply, which weights just 1 lb and has an excellent rating on eham.net.

Ignacy

Jim Brown-10 wrote

On Tue, 17 Mar 2009 05:35:54 -0700 (PDT), Ignacy wrote:

>Instead of using heavy wires it may be sufficient to the cigarette plug with
>the MFJ conditioner, which contains supercapacitors. Much less hassle.

This is a really bad idea. Going straight to the battery with a pair of big,
short, wires is the right way to do it. Anything else is asking for big
trouble. TWISTING the pairs is even better!

73,

Jim Brown K9YC

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