K3 power cable

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K3 power cable

CX7TT
Does the K3 come with the Anderson power poles already installed or at
least in the kit?
Tnx
Tom
CX7TT
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RE: K3 power cable

Don Brown-4
Hi
 
The K3 has a PowerPole connector on the back of the radio and includes a kit to build up a 5 ft cable to plug into the radio. The power supply end is not supplied so you will need to connect the bare wires to your power supply or supply your own connector for your power supply. The cable kit includes 5 ft of #12 red/black zip cord, a set of red and black PowerPole connectors with terminal pins and instructions. The instructions recommend soldering the pins.
 
Don Brown
KD5NDB



> Date: Mon, 17 Mar 2008 19:37:47 +0400> From: [hidden email]> To: [hidden email]> Subject: [Elecraft] K3 power cable> > Does the K3 come with the Anderson power poles already installed or at > least in the kit?> Tnx> Tom> CX7TT> _______________________________________________> Elecraft mailing list> Post to: [hidden email]> You must be a subscriber to post to the list.> Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.):> http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft > > Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm> Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com_______________________________________________
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Re: K3 power cable

k0wa@swbell.net
In reply to this post by CX7TT
Tom,

You will have to heat up the soldering iron for this one.  They give you the connectors and cable...no fuses or fuse holders.  You will have to crimp and solder.

Lee
K0WA

 

In our day and age it seems that Common Sense is in short supply.  If you don't have any Common Sense - get some Common Sense and use it.  If you can't find any Common Sense, ask for help from somebody who has some Common Sense.  Is Common Sense divine?
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Re: K3 power cable

Ken Wagner K3IU
In reply to this post by CX7TT
The connector was *not* installed on the cable in my K3 kit.
73, Ken K3IU

[hidden email] wrote:

> Does the K3 come with the Anderson power poles already installed or at
> least in the kit?
> Tnx
> Tom
> CX7TT
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Re: K3 power cable

Mike B-12
In reply to this post by CX7TT
Others have given you the answer you were searching for, but I'll just chime in
to say that during my K3 wait (June till February), I made a cable of 10 ga.
zip, with an in-line fuse holder and PowerPoles on each end.  I have a West
Mountain Radio crimper available, so I crimped then soldered each terminal.  The
Elecraft power cable kit is still in its bag, waiting for another project.

[hidden email] wrote:
> Does the K3 come with the Anderson power poles already installed or at
> least in the kit?

73,

Mike
KW1ND
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Re: K3 power cable

M0XDF
In reply to this post by k0wa@swbell.net
You either crimp or Solder - not both
73 de M0XDF, K3 #174
--  
Sometimes I think we're alone in the universe, and sometimes I think
we're not. In either case, the idea is quite staggering.
-Arthur C Clarke, science fiction writer (1917- )

On 17 Mar 2008, at 15:50, Lee Buller wrote:

> Tom,
>
> You will have to heat up the soldering iron for this one.  They give  
> you the connectors and cable...no fuses or fuse holders.  You will  
> have to crimp and solder.
>
> Lee
> K0WA
>
>
>
> In our day and age it seems that Common Sense is in short supply.  
> If you don't have any Common Sense - get some Common Sense and use  
> it.  If you can't find any Common Sense, ask for help from somebody  
> who has some Common Sense.  Is Common Sense divine?
> _______________________________________________
> Elecraft mailing list
> Post to: [hidden email]
> You must be a subscriber to post to the list.
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>
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Re: K3 power cable

Mike B-12
> You either crimp or Solder - not both

While it may be easy to prove that doing both is redundant, I see no reason why
one *can't* do both, provided you crimp before soldering.  I find it rather odd
to make such a firm distinction.

If I'm planning ahead and remember to bring the crimpers home from work, I'll
typically just crimp.  Otherwise, I just solder.  Sometimes, though, I'll get
picky and do both, such as on lines that will be carrying a fair bit of power.

73,

Mike
KW1ND

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Re: K3 power cable

M0XDF
You are welcome to do both - as long as you don't compromise the  
contact fit inside the housing.

As to whether its worst or even advisable to do both...
I've had people tell me that soldering hardens the point where the  
wire joins the contact and effectively weakens it, because strands can  
break at that point.

I have to say, I would have thought defence contractors would solder  
as well as crimp, if that was considered worthwhile.

FWIW - I havn't soldered any of my crimped APPs.

--
Study without desire spoils the memory, and it retains nothing that it  
takes in.  -- Leonardo da Vinci

On 17 Mar 2008, at 17:33, Mike B wrote:

>> You either crimp or Solder - not both
>
> While it may be easy to prove that doing both is redundant, I see no  
> reason why one *can't* do both, provided you crimp before  
> soldering.  I find it rather odd to make such a firm distinction.
>
> If I'm planning ahead and remember to bring the crimpers home from  
> work, I'll typically just crimp.  Otherwise, I just solder.  
> Sometimes, though, I'll get picky and do both, such as on lines that  
> will be carrying a fair bit of power.
>
> 73,
>
> Mike
> KW1ND
>
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Re: K3 power cable

P.B. Christensen
In reply to this post by Mike B-12
> You either crimp or Solder - not both

I crimp and solder.  But an explanation is in order:

I begin by crimping the PowerPole connector to the stranded wire.  When the
crimp is complete, I then apply silver bearing solder ONLY to the very tip
of the stranded wire where it butts up against the connector.  The wire in
the area of the crimp has NO solder and this is important to ensure that
wire stresses due to cable movement do not break the wire as if it was a
solid-conductor.  So, it's the best of two worlds as flexibility at the
crimp is maintained and I can be sure that long-term resistive loss is
minimized by the small application of solder.  When using this method, it's
critical that the stranded wire does not "wick" the solder up to the crimp
point and that's another reason why I use silver bearing solder as it
tendency to flow along the wire is impeded more so than with standard
lead/tin solder.

Paul, W9AC

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RE: K3 power cable

Ed Muns, W0YK
In reply to this post by M0XDF
> You either crimp or Solder - not both

Why not?  I've done both on all my crimped connections for years.  Crimping
breaks through any oxidation in the wire and terminal as well as providing
mechanical strength.  Soldering adds to both of these as well as reducing
the potential for further oxidation (and increased resistance) between the
wire and terminal because they are no longer exposed to the environment.

Now, if one doesn't have the proper crimping tool and risks distorting the
terminal and its fit in the housing or interconnection with its mating
terminal, then only soldering may be best.  Or, if soldering is not
practical for some reason, then crimping is fine.  In that case, some
dielectric grease on the parts before crimping will help minimize future
oxidation and resistance build up.

Most of our radio environments are limited enough so lessen the effects of
oxidation and mechanical rigidity.  But crimping and soldering is so easy to
do, why not quickly provide the added margin?

73,
Ed - W0YK

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Re: K3 power cable

alsopb
Ed Muns wrote:

>>You either crimp or Solder - not both
>>    
>>
>
>Why not?  I've done both on all my crimped connections for years.  Crimping
>breaks through any oxidation in the wire and terminal as well as providing
>mechanical strength.  Soldering adds to both of these as well as reducing
>the potential for further oxidation (and increased resistance) between the
>wire and terminal because they are no longer exposed to the environment.
>
>Now, if one doesn't have the proper crimping tool and risks distorting the
>terminal and its fit in the housing or interconnection with its mating
>terminal, then only soldering may be best.  Or, if soldering is not
>practical for some reason, then crimping is fine.  In that case, some
>dielectric grease on the parts before crimping will help minimize future
>oxidation and resistance build up.
>
>Most of our radio environments are limited enough so lessen the effects of
>oxidation and mechanical rigidity.  But crimping and soldering is so easy to
>do, why not quickly provide the added margin?
>
>73,
>Ed - W0YK
>  
>
Crimping is only easy to do if you have the tool and are proficient in
its use.
Some of us need soldering only advice-like where not to get the solder.
Power pole connectors are "new technology" to many of us.  
Given the problems I've had with past crimping tools, the first couple
crimps with a new tool/connector are bad.  That shoots down the two
connectors supplied.   So I guess if I had to buy a tool,  I'd also get
a bunch of "spare" connectors too.  Not the scenerio I like for a $2K rig.
Not an big deal though.
73 de Brian/K3KO.

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RE: K3 power cable

Darwin, Keith
OK, we've established that the kit rigs require you to assemble the APPs
on the wire to make the power cable.

Same deal for the factory assembled rigs or do they come with finished
power cables?

- Keith N1AS -
- K2 5411.ssb.100 -
- K3 Wave 3 (soon) -

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Re: K3 power cable

Jeff Kinzli N6GQ
The assembled K3's come with an assembled power cable, you just need
to finish the battery/power supply side.

Jeff

On Mon, Mar 17, 2008 at 12:55 PM, Darwin, Keith
<[hidden email]> wrote:

> OK, we've established that the kit rigs require you to assemble the APPs
>  on the wire to make the power cable.
>
>  Same deal for the factory assembled rigs or do they come with finished
>  power cables?
>
>  - Keith N1AS -
>  - K2 5411.ssb.100 -
>  - K3 Wave 3 (soon) -
>
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Re: Re: K3 power cable

David Cutter
In reply to this post by CX7TT

I would far prefer a factory pre-assembled power cable, given the expense of the correct crimp tool and I far prefer crimping to soldering to a cable with no strain relief.

ps I've probably crimped and soldered 100s of thousands of wires.  But this is not a crimp tool in my armoury.

David
G3UNA

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Re: K3 power cable

Buck - k4ia
In reply to this post by CX7TT
Don't over complicate it.  I just used a  plain old wire crimper and solder.

If you want some more strain relief,  put some heat shrink tubing over the
connector and for about 6 inches up the  wire. Use big tubing at the connector
and overlap it over smaller tubing up the  wire.  You might have to overlap a
couple of different sizes to get it to  be snug but it will be very strong.  A
drop of hot glue on the end of the  power pole would also help.

If you could see the Mickey Mouse job Yaesu  did on the $4000 Quadra control
cables or the pathetic and wimpy connector  TenTec used for the Orion, you
wouldn't feel so bad about the power  poles.

k4ia
"Buck" K3 #101
Fredericksburg, VA  




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RE: K3 power cable

Brett Howard
In reply to this post by Mike B-12
Don't worry about doing both...  It leaves you that much more sure that you
won't lose connection and trust me... The electrons will forgive your soul
for doing both! :)

-----Original Message-----
From: [hidden email]
[mailto:[hidden email]] On Behalf Of Mike B
Sent: Monday, March 17, 2008 10:34 AM
To: Elecraft Reflector
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] K3 power cable

> You either crimp or Solder - not both

While it may be easy to prove that doing both is redundant, I see no reason
why
one *can't* do both, provided you crimp before soldering.  I find it rather
odd
to make such a firm distinction.

If I'm planning ahead and remember to bring the crimpers home from work,
I'll
typically just crimp.  Otherwise, I just solder.  Sometimes, though, I'll
get
picky and do both, such as on lines that will be carrying a fair bit of
power.

73,

Mike
KW1ND

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