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I will be putting my K3S on the bench this weekend to try to trace an
intermittent bug. Elecraft support has suggested removing the front panel and checking the seating of the multi-pin connectors. Are there any tips to make the replacement easier? As I recall that was the single most nerve-wracking part of the kit. Thanks es 73 de Chuck, WS1L -- =================== Chuck Chandler [hidden email] =================== ______________________________________________________________ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:[hidden email] This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html Message delivered to [hidden email] |
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Chuck,
Removing the front panel is easy. It is separating the front panel and DSP board which is more involved. All you have to do is remove the screws and pull the front panel board off. There are rectangular cutouts on the bottom which can be used to pry the front panel off with a screwdriver. The many pins provide a good grip, so you have to pry it off a bit. With the K3 (not K3S) you had to remove the left side panel to allow you to remove one screw from the RF Board to 2-D connector which interfered with the removal of the Front Panel assembly, but the K3S has a notch in the board and that step is not necessary. 73, Don W3FPR On 3/16/2017 10:01 AM, Chuck Chandler wrote: > I will be putting my K3S on the bench this weekend to try to trace an > intermittent bug. Elecraft support has suggested removing the front panel > and checking the seating of the multi-pin connectors. > > Are there any tips to make the replacement easier? As I recall that was > the single most nerve-wracking part of the kit. > > Thanks es 73 de Chuck, WS1L > ______________________________________________________________ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:[hidden email] This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html Message delivered to [hidden email] |
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... and remove the exterior nut on the head-fone jack
73 Dwight NS9I On 3/16/2017 10:09 AM, Don Wilhelm wrote: > Chuck, > > Removing the front panel is easy. It is separating the front panel > and DSP board which is more involved. > > All you have to do is remove the screws and pull the front panel board > off. There are rectangular cutouts on the bottom which can be used to > pry the front panel off with a screwdriver. The many pins provide a > good grip, so you have to pry it off a bit. > > With the K3 (not K3S) you had to remove the left side panel to allow > you to remove one screw from the RF Board to 2-D connector which > interfered with the removal of the Front Panel assembly, but the K3S > has a notch in the board and that step is not necessary. > > 73, > Don W3FPR > > On 3/16/2017 10:01 AM, Chuck Chandler wrote: >> I will be putting my K3S on the bench this weekend to try to trace an >> intermittent bug. Elecraft support has suggested removing the front >> panel >> and checking the seating of the multi-pin connectors. >> >> Are there any tips to make the replacement easier? As I recall that was >> the single most nerve-wracking part of the kit. >> >> Thanks es 73 de Chuck, WS1L >> > ______________________________________________________________ > Elecraft mailing list > Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft > Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm > Post: mailto:[hidden email] > > This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net > Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html > Message delivered to [hidden email] > > ______________________________________________________________ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:[hidden email] This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html Message delivered to [hidden email] |
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Dwight,
That is not necessary when removing the front panel assembly. It *is* necessary if you separate the DSP board from the Front Panel board. 73, Don W3FPR On 3/16/2017 2:51 PM, 'DGB' wrote: > ... and remove the exterior nut on the head-fone jack > > > 73 Dwight NS9I > > > On 3/16/2017 10:09 AM, Don Wilhelm wrote: >> Chuck, >> >> Removing the front panel is easy. It is separating the front panel >> and DSP board which is more involved. Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:[hidden email] This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html Message delivered to [hidden email] |
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In reply to this post by Chuck Chandler
Go slow and carefully.
Sent from my iPhone ...nr4c. bill > On Mar 16, 2017, at 10:01 AM, Chuck Chandler <[hidden email]> wrote: > > I will be putting my K3S on the bench this weekend to try to trace an > intermittent bug. Elecraft support has suggested removing the front panel > and checking the seating of the multi-pin connectors. > > Are there any tips to make the replacement easier? As I recall that was > the single most nerve-wracking part of the kit. > > Thanks es 73 de Chuck, WS1L > > -- > > > =================== > Chuck Chandler > [hidden email] > =================== > ______________________________________________________________ > Elecraft mailing list > Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft > Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm > Post: mailto:[hidden email] > > This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net > Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html > Message delivered to [hidden email] Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:[hidden email] This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html Message delivered to [hidden email] |
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In reply to this post by Don Wilhelm
Related question: My K3 [S/N 642] which I built from the kit has
developed an "intermittent front panel problem," where tapping a switch doesn't always yield the action it should. For example, tapping MODE UP might yield the same result as tapping AGC. There is no guarantee that the next MODE UP will result in AGC however, and in fact, it may actually result in MODE UP or something else. I have found that if I tap a switch strongly, requiring me to hold the K3 itself, it will usually result in the proper action. Some switches seem to be better than others, and those that I use the most seem to be better than those I rarely use. I began to notice this several years ago, occurring rarely. Frequency of occurrence has increased slowly since then. I know there is a mod to the FP connectors that involves gold pins, but I don't know if that would correct this problem. The radio works just fine otherwise. Maybe I'm just wearing out the switches? 73, Fred ("Skip") K6DGW Sparks NV USA Washoe County DM09dn On 3/16/2017 12:17 PM, Don Wilhelm wrote: > Dwight, > > That is not necessary when removing the front panel assembly. > It *is* necessary if you separate the DSP board from the Front Panel > board. > > 73, > Don W3FPR ______________________________________________________________ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:[hidden email] This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html Message delivered to [hidden email] |
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Having just completed the gold pin modification, I can confirm that it is associated with the KPA3, not the main power input or the front panel. AFAIK there are no other gold pin mods for the K3. I suggest removing the front panel and connectors and carefully re-seating them. You might also want to consider the use of De-Oxit, but do ask Elecraft first, as they may advise against it. Bear in mind that this is a computer issue where signals from switches are multiplexed. If one connection gets disturbed, it will affect the action of several switches and give weird intermittent results, with some being seemingly unrelated. 73, Alan. G4GNX -----Original Message----- From: Fred Jensen Sent: Thursday, March 16, 2017 7:58 PM To: [hidden email] Subject: [Elecraft] K3 - Intermittent FP switches Related question: My K3 [S/N 642] which I built from the kit has developed an "intermittent front panel problem," where tapping a switch doesn't always yield the action it should. For example, tapping MODE UP might yield the same result as tapping AGC. There is no guarantee that the next MODE UP will result in AGC however, and in fact, it may actually result in MODE UP or something else. I have found that if I tap a switch strongly, requiring me to hold the K3 itself, it will usually result in the proper action. Some switches seem to be better than others, and those that I use the most seem to be better than those I rarely use. I began to notice this several years ago, occurring rarely. Frequency of occurrence has increased slowly since then. I know there is a mod to the FP connectors that involves gold pins, but I don't know if that would correct this problem. The radio works just fine otherwise. Maybe I'm just wearing out the switches? 73, Fred ("Skip") K6DGW Sparks NV USA Washoe County DM09dn ______________________________________________________________ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:[hidden email] This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html Message delivered to [hidden email] |
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In reply to this post by Don Wilhelm
Thank you Don, I stand corrected, as that is what I had to do.
BTW thank you for all your contributions to this group and ham radio. 73 Dwight NS9I On 3/16/2017 2:17 PM, Don Wilhelm wrote: > Dwight, > > That is not necessary when removing the front panel assembly. > It *is* necessary if you separate the DSP board from the Front Panel > board. > > 73, > Don W3FPR > > On 3/16/2017 2:51 PM, 'DGB' wrote: >> ... and remove the exterior nut on the head-fone jack >> >> >> 73 Dwight NS9I >> >> >> On 3/16/2017 10:09 AM, Don Wilhelm wrote: >>> Chuck, >>> >>> Removing the front panel is easy. It is separating the front panel >>> and DSP board which is more involved. > > ______________________________________________________________ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:[hidden email] This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html Message delivered to [hidden email] |
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In reply to this post by k6dgw
Skip,
I suggest you remove the Front Panel assembly and check to see if the connector pins on the long connector are tin or gold. If they are tin, then they should be replaced (only the male pins, the mating female is already gold). Elecraft will supply a "kit", I believe at no cost. Often just removing and replacing the connectors will solve 'strange happenings' because the process wipes away oxidation. If the pins are gold and the behavior continues, contact Elecraft support for further action. 73, Don W3FPR On 3/16/2017 3:58 PM, Fred Jensen wrote: > Related question: My K3 [S/N 642] which I built from the kit has > developed an "intermittent front panel problem," where tapping a switch > doesn't always yield the action it should. For example, tapping MODE UP > might yield the same result as tapping AGC. There is no guarantee that > the next MODE UP will result in AGC however, and in fact, it may > actually result in MODE UP or something else. I have found that if I > tap a switch strongly, requiring me to hold the K3 itself, it will > usually result in the proper action. ______________________________________________________________ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:[hidden email] This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html Message delivered to [hidden email] |
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In reply to this post by Don Wilhelm
This is why I believe it's best to assemble the radio yourself That way you know how to take it apart if need be ----- Original Message ----- From: Ron D'Eau Claire <[hidden email]> To: [hidden email]; 'Chuck Chandler' <[hidden email]>; [hidden email] Sent: Thursday, March 16, 2017 5:26 PM Subject: Re: [Elecraft] K3S front panel remove/replace tips? There is a manual on the Elecraft web site with an illustrate procedure for R/R the DSP board, including removing and replacing the Front Panel Assembly, of course. It is here http://www.elecraft.com/K3/mods/K3_Remove_Replace_DSP_Board_Rev_B.pdf 73, Ron AC7AC -----Original Message----- From: Elecraft [mailto:[hidden email]] On Behalf Of Don Wilhelm Sent: Thursday, March 16, 2017 8:09 AM To: Chuck Chandler; [hidden email] Subject: Re: [Elecraft] K3S front panel remove/replace tips? Chuck, Removing the front panel is easy. It is separating the front panel and DSP board which is more involved. All you have to do is remove the screws and pull the front panel board off. There are rectangular cutouts on the bottom which can be used to pry the front panel off with a screwdriver. The many pins provide a good grip, so you have to pry it off a bit. With the K3 (not K3S) you had to remove the left side panel to allow you to remove one screw from the RF Board to 2-D connector which interfered with the removal of the Front Panel assembly, but the K3S has a notch in the board and that step is not necessary. 73, Don W3FPR On 3/16/2017 10:01 AM, Chuck Chandler wrote: > I will be putting my K3S on the bench this weekend to try to trace an > intermittent bug. Elecraft support has suggested removing the front > panel and checking the seating of the multi-pin connectors. > > Are there any tips to make the replacement easier? As I recall that > was the single most nerve-wracking part of the kit. > > Thanks es 73 de Chuck, WS1L > ______________________________________________________________ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:[hidden email] This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html Message delivered to [hidden email] ______________________________________________________________ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:[hidden email] This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html Message delivered to [hidden email] ______________________________________________________________ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:[hidden email] This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html Message delivered to [hidden email] |
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In reply to this post by Chuck Chandler
When separating the front panel assembly, place the K3(S) upside-down on
a smooth anti-static mat [1]. This ensures that the front panel cannot drop away when the two units come apart, and avoids bending any connector pins. Likewise when reassembling: place the two units upside-down on the mat, accurately line up the panel assembly with the main body of the K3(S) and then simply *slide* the two parts together on the mat. The more you remove and replace the front panel assembly, the easier the whole operation becomes because you are 'training' all the connector pins to line up more accurately with their matching sockets. [1] Please say that you always use an anti-static mat for these operations? 73 from Ian GM3SEK >-----Original Message----- >From: Elecraft [mailto:[hidden email]] On Behalf Of >Chuck Chandler >Sent: 16 March 2017 14:01 >To: [hidden email] >Subject: [Elecraft] K3S front panel remove/replace tips? > >I will be putting my K3S on the bench this weekend to try to trace an >intermittent bug. Elecraft support has suggested removing the front panel >and checking the seating of the multi-pin connectors. > >Are there any tips to make the replacement easier? As I recall that was >the single most nerve-wracking part of the kit. > >Thanks es 73 de Chuck, WS1L > >-- > > >=================== >Chuck Chandler >[hidden email] >=================== >______________________________________________________________ >Elecraft mailing list >Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft >Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm >Post: mailto:[hidden email] > >This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net >Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html >Message delivered to [hidden email] ______________________________________________________________ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:[hidden email] This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html Message delivered to [hidden email] |
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