KAT2 INSTALL - VOLTAGE AT U4, PIN1
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After listening for a while and reviewing basic and advanced operation I am now beginning the install of the K2 accessories. For the KAT2 I am getting .001 V at U4/PIN 1. Is this "close enough" to zero? If not, please advise the best way to trace back the origin of this voltage. BTW, in TUNE I am at 3.8. Thanks.
Chris K7CJA K2#6442
73,
K7CJA |
Re: KAT2 INSTALL - VOLTAGE AT U4, PIN1
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Chris,
Unless you are really careful with your DMM leads and have zeroed your DMM, *any* reading of .001 volts (or even up to .003) can be considered zero under normal conditions because it is likely noise being coupled onto the DMM leads from sources unknown. So, yes, that is close enough to zero. Additional hint: if you are ever going to install the K60XV, use a 470 ohm resistor at the R6 location rather than the 47 ohm value. If you have the K60XV in hand, you will find an extra 470 ohm resistor just for that purpose packaged with the kit. 73, Don W3FPR MTcja wrote: > After listening for a while and reviewing basic and advanced operation I am > now beginning the install of the K2 accessories. For the KAT2 I am getting > .001 V at U4/PIN 1. Is this "close enough" to zero? If not, please advise > the best way to trace back the origin of this voltage. BTW, in TUNE I am at > 3.8. Thanks. > > _______________________________________________ Elecraft mailing list Post to: [hidden email] You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com |
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Don:
Thanks again. Good news. And thanks for the hint I do have the k60xv to install so this is a big help. I am kind of going by guess and by golly on what order I install things. I have started with the KAT2 and had planned to move to the SSB2, but I may do the 160m accessory first. Suggestions always appreciated. 73's Chris
73,
K7CJA |
Re: KAT2 INSTALL - VOLTAGE AT U4, PIN1
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Chris,
If you have not already done so, when you take the heat sink off to add the AUX RF connector for the KAT2, while you have it off, add the RF Board capacitors and the header for the K160RX option. These can be done without any further changes. Hold the K60XV installation until last. Install the K160RX and the KSB2 and then you can do all the SSB filter setup and the bandpass filter alignment for 160 and 80 meters (there is only one adjustment for both bands, so you may have to use a compromise setting). The other options may be installed in any order you desire. You will have to remove the heat sink once more to add the K60XV option. Hint for removing the heat sink - the biggest danger is that the screws come out and the PA mounting hardware scatters all over the bench. To prevent that, take 2 pieces of electrical tape and push them down over the screw heads, sticking the edges to the RF board and T4. The screws will stay in place when you remove the heat sink, but put nuts on them if you will be doing any extensive work. 73, Don W3FPR MTcja wrote: > Don: > > Thanks again. Good news. And thanks for the hint I do have the k60xv to > install so this is a big help. I am kind of going by guess and by golly on > what order I install things. I have started with the KAT2 and had planned > to move to the SSB2, but I may do the 160m accessory first. Suggestions > always appreciated. > > 73's > Chris > > Don Wilhelm wrote: > >> Chris, >> >> Unless you are really careful with your DMM leads and have zeroed your >> DMM, *any* reading of .001 volts (or even up to .003) can be considered >> zero under normal conditions because it is likely noise being coupled >> onto the DMM leads from sources unknown. >> >> So, yes, that is close enough to zero. >> >> Additional hint: if you are ever going to install the K60XV, use a 470 >> ohm resistor at the R6 location rather than the 47 ohm value. If you >> have the K60XV in hand, you will find an extra 470 ohm resistor just for >> that purpose packaged with the kit. >> >> 73, >> Don W3FPR >> >> MTcja wrote: >> >>> After listening for a while and reviewing basic and advanced operation I >>> am >>> now beginning the install of the K2 accessories. For the KAT2 I am >>> getting >>> .001 V at U4/PIN 1. Is this "close enough" to zero? If not, please >>> advise >>> the best way to trace back the origin of this voltage. BTW, in TUNE I am >>> at >>> 3.8. Thanks. >>> >>> >>> >> _______________________________________________ >> Elecraft mailing list >> Post to: [hidden email] >> You must be a subscriber to post to the list. >> Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): >> http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft >> >> Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm >> Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com >> >> >> > > > ------------------------------------------------------------------------ > > > No virus found in this incoming message. > Checked by AVG. > Version: 8.0.100 / Virus Database: 269.23.9/1419 - Release Date: 5/7/2008 7:46 AM > _______________________________________________ Elecraft mailing list Post to: [hidden email] You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com |
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In reply to this post by CJA
Make sure that when you build the 60M board that the diodes are in the right position. I had reversed D1 and it cost me about $200 in parts and repair work! The 2SC1969 finals are very explosive BTW...
Damon
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