Although I'm not very good with antenna theory, I've enjoyed reading the
discussions of where what type balun should go, or not go, etc. in the KAT500 discussions. I still don't know how I would go about connecting my current antenna to a KPA500, so I thought perhaps some of you would have some input. Here's my situation/configuration: - Due to convenant restrictions, I am limited to a long wire (about 170') in an inverted "L" configuration (stealth situation) - Antenna feed point and ground/radial system feed point are together and about 50' from my K3/P3 location - Currently using an SGC-230 remote antenna coupler at the antenna feed point, with good quality 50 ohm coax coming into the house This configuration is working admirably on 160 through 10 meters. My original thinking on this configuration was having the tuner/coupler at the antenna feed point would help 1) keep stray RF away from the shack, and 2) minimize any feedline loss. However, with the 230, I'm limited to about 60 watts cw, and 200 watts ssb. Obviously, no KPA500 under my Christmas tree. I initially was thinking there would be two versions of the KAT500, one model for indoor use, then another for remote/outdoor use. I could then replace the 230 with the remote KPA500 and then be free to purchase my KPA500. However, it appears a remote version of the tuner may be awhile coming. The question I keep asking myself is: Could I use the "shack" version of the KAT500 with my current antenna, and, if so, how would one hook everything together? Balun (1:1, 4:1, choke), or no balun? Coax, I assume would still be OK, but obviously would be higher voltages and a little power loss (but still probably OK at HF frequencies). Or, given the inverted "L"has to remain my antenna, is there still significant advantage to having the tuner at the antenna feedpoint - and I should simply wait awhile longer and see if there will be a "remote" version of the tuner? I love this reflector and Elecraft. Oscar, WB5GCX ______________________________________________________________ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:[hidden email] This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html |
I moved my inverted "L", a 176 foot long, 55 foot high wire in the
trees, from my shack to a post with an SGC 230 tuner about 100 feet away from the shack. The noise level on receive went down about 3 S units. I live in a quiet, rural location, and, as a side benefit, the antenna is no longer visible. Its located just into a wooded area and the neighbors and XYL are happy, too. Only problem is, with a total of 140 feet of coax, it requires more than QRP power to tune, on some bands. The SGC 230 requires 3 watts, but the loses on an untuned line are great enough that I can't use my K1 on 15 meters. The KX3 should have enough power to tune on all bands. Another possibility would be to use a remotely tuned network for each band to get the SWR close, and do the final tuning in the shack. 73, Rick Dettinger K7MW > I have an inverted L myself, and have often thought of adding the > SGC230 to > allow me to have a feed point farther from the 'shack'. > > > 73, > > Ron AC7AC > ______________________________________________________________ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:[hidden email] This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html |
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