KDSP2 Capacitor Installation

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KDSP2 Capacitor Installation

Chuck Gehring
I need some recommendations.  The KDSP2 instructions state to install C5,
C8,C3, and C4 with the capacitor flush to tje PCB with the exposed leads not
more than 1/32" (1mm) above the PCB.  Could someone please tell me how they
accomplished this task.  The best I can mamage without cracking the ceramic
around the leads is 2/32" Pictures would be great.

73, KI4DGH

Chuck Gehring

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Re: KDSP2 Capacitor Installation

KK7P
Chuck Gehring wrote:
> I need some recommendations.  The KDSP2 instructions state to install C5,
> C8,C3, and C4 with the capacitor flush to tje PCB with the exposed leads not
> more than 1/32" (1mm) above the PCB.  Could someone please tell me how they
> accomplished this task.  The best I can mamage without cracking the ceramic
> around the leads is 2/32" Pictures would be great.

The kits sometimes contain capacitors whose leads are 0.2" spacing
rather than 0.1" spacing.  The capacitor manufacturer then bends the
leads inward with a little "jog" and they come out as 0.1".

I just checked the clearances on the KDSP2 PCB and 1/16" of an on the
capacitor leads should be OK.

73,

Lyle KK7P

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Re: KDSP2 Capacitor Installation

Tom Hammond-3
In reply to this post by Chuck Gehring
Chuck:

>I need some recommendations.  The KDSP2 instructions state to install C5,
>C8,C3, and C4 with the capacitor flush to tje PCB with the exposed leads not
>more than 1/32" (1mm) above the PCB.  Could someone please tell me how they
>accomplished this task.  The best I can mamage without cracking the ceramic
>around the leads is 2/32" Pictures would be great.

Fresh out of pics, but here's how I've done it for a long time (read
"decades").

Use the TIP of a pair of small-tipped needle-nosed pliers and CRUSH just
the over-dip epoxy which extends down onto the wire leads. Rotate the
capacitor and crush again.

Carefully use your fingers to pick off the crushed over-dip.

Use the tip end of the pliers to individually straighten each of the
pre-bent bends in the component lead and then re-bend ONLY if needed.

When you are straightening the bends hold the lead by its END, rather than
by the component body, so the body does not absorb any of the stress
imparted by the pliers. It's pretty difficult to not hold the component
body if you are RE-bending the leads, but as I noted previously, re-bend
only if absolutely necessary.

73,

Tom Hammond   N0SS


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