KFL1-2 vs KFL1-4

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KFL1-2 vs KFL1-4

lonnie.m.juli
Hello experts!

I own a 4 band K1 with 40m, 30m, 20m and 15m installed. I have just ordered a KFL1-2 for 80m and 40m to take advantage of the current propagation conditions. In reading the Instruction Sheet for the 80m band, I came across the reference to C78 (10 uf) installed on the bottom of the RF board. What is the impact of C78 when I switch back to my KFL1-4? Will it have any impact on the four band board?

Thanks and 73,

Lonnie NY2LJ

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Re: KFL1-2 vs KFL1-4

Mike Morrow-3
Lonnie wrote:

>I own a 4 band K1 with 40m, 30m, 20m and 15m installed.
>I have just ordered a KFL1-2 for 80m and 40m...

If you have two different filter boards each with 40m on them, you'll be able to store a 40m LCD operating frequency display calibration constant for only one of the filter boards.  These cal constants are stored one for each band in the front panel CPU system, and not on the filter board itself.  This will likely mean there will be a small display inaccuracy on 40m when the filter board is in place that was NOT installed at the time of display calibration.

>... I came across the reference to C78 (10 uf) installed on the
>bottom of the RF board. What is the impact of C78 when I switch
>back to my KFL1-4? Will it have any impact on the four band board?

It won't hurt a bit.  In fact, it might be helpful even on other bands.

The same is true for RF choke RFC8 that's provided only with the 80m kit.  You have to remove a jumper on the RF board and replace it with this RFC.

I'd prefer that RFC8 and C78 were standard parts to be installed when the basic K1 is being built.  Then the K1 would be immediately ready for an 80m board at some future date.

I have an older K1, with a 40/30/20/15m board and a 80/17m board.  Older K1's do not have pads on which to solder C78, and C78 wasn't included in older 80m parts kits.  I installed C78 anyway.  Oddly, no Elecraft bulletin mentions C78 nor states that C78 should be installed on the older K1s also for 80m operation.  I believe it should be.

73,
Mike / KK5F
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Re: KFL1-2 vs KFL1-4

Sandy W5TVW
In reply to this post by lonnie.m.juli
None!  There is also a choke that needs to be installed if you use the KAT1
antenna tuner on 80 meters.
BE ADVISED if you have 40 meters on TWO boards, besides reassigning the band
one and two after you change from one board to another, you will have to
also redo the calibration procedure for 40 meters each time.
I just finished building a 2 band board for 160 and 80 meters.  (160 is a "non
standard" band..i.e.: Elecraft doesn't offer 160 as a band option)  They have all
the necessary parts to do this EXCEPT the band crystal.  This must be ordered from
ICM or another crystal manufacturer.
When I switch boards, I just have to reassign band assignments and I'm off!
Rig works great on 160 and 80!

73,
Sandy W5TVW
----- Original Message -----
From: <[hidden email]>
To: <[hidden email]>
Sent: Tuesday, January 25, 2005 3:30 PM
Subject: [Elecraft] KFL1-2 vs KFL1-4


| Hello experts!
|
| I own a 4 band K1 with 40m, 30m, 20m and 15m installed. I have just ordered a
KFL1-2 for 80m and 40m to take advantage of the current propagation conditions. In
reading the Instruction Sheet for the 80m band, I came across the reference to C78
(10 uf) installed on the bottom of the RF board. What is the impact of C78 when I
switch back to my KFL1-4? Will it have any impact on the four band board?
|
| Thanks and 73,
|
| Lonnie NY2LJ
|
| _______________________________________________
| Elecraft mailing list
| Post to: [hidden email]
| You must be a subscriber to post to the list.
| Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.):
|  http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft
|
| Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm
| Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
|
|

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RE: KFL1-2 vs KFL1-4

lonnie.m.juli
In reply to this post by lonnie.m.juli
Don,

Yes, yes, please, please. I'd love to put the K1 on 160! Please send the
info.

73,

Lonnie

-----Original Message-----
From: W3FPR - Don Wilhelm [mailto:[hidden email]]
Sent: Tuesday, January 25, 2005 9:35 PM
To: [hidden email]
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] KFL1-2 vs KFL1-4

Lonnie,

I see yo already have a good answer, but I thought I might point out that I
have added 160 meters to a 2 band K1 board for another ham - I can send you
the instructions and parts list if you would like to do something like that.

BTW, if you have the ATU in your K1, you will have to have an extra set of
ATU headers for the additional board.

73,
Don W3FPR
----- Original Message -----
From: <[hidden email]>
To: <[hidden email]>
Sent: Tuesday, January 25, 2005 4:30 PM
Subject: [Elecraft] KFL1-2 vs KFL1-4


> Hello experts!
>
> I own a 4 band K1 with 40m, 30m, 20m and 15m installed. I have just
> ordered a KFL1-2 for 80m and 40m to take advantage of the current
> propagation conditions. In reading the Instruction Sheet for the 80m band,

> I came across the reference to C78 (10 uf) installed on the bottom of the
> RF board. What is the impact of C78 when I switch back to my KFL1-4? Will
> it have any impact on the four band board?
>
> Thanks and 73,
>
> Lonnie NY2LJ
>
> _______________________________________________
> Elecraft mailing list
> Post to: [hidden email]
> You must be a subscriber to post to the list.
> Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.):
> http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft
>
> Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm
> Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
>




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Re: KFL1-2 on 160 meters

Don Wilhelm-3
OK Lonnie, the following is a copy of my post a long time ago that described
how to put a K1 2 band board on 160 meters.  Unfortunately, Elecraft has not
included this as a band kit, so you will have to look elsewhere for the
crystal (Elecraft has all the other parts).
73,
Don W3FPR

------------------------------------------------------------------
Hi Folks,

I have been successful in putting a K1 on 160 meters with full 7 watts
output - well I peaked things at the low end of the band and got 7.4 watts,
but it sagged to 6.8 watts at the high end - not really shabby - I conclude
that the bandwidth is quite adequate.

I borrowed the bandpass and low-pass filter values from the K2 and used the
pre-mixer values that Steve K1HJ had used successfully, so I can claim no
original design.

This is not my K1, but one I had built for Curt W3HQ about 2 years ago.  He
sent me the K1 with a 2 band board - originally for 80 and 15 meters - but I
did not even open the package with the 15 meter components.

I ordered the following from Elecraft:

Capacitors:
2 - E530002  1500 pf capacitor
3 - E530003  2700 pf capacitor
2 - E530005  1200 pf capacitor
2 - E530035  1800 pf capacitor
2 - E530052   560 pf capacitor
2 - E530053   680 pf capacitor
1 - E530058    12 pf capacitor

Inductors:
1 - E690007   33 uh inductor
2 - E690001  4.7 uh variable inductor (wide tuning slot)

Toroid cores:
2 - E680001  T44-1 or T50-1 toroid cores (blue color)

I also ordered a 9.800 mHz crystal (HC-49 case 20 pf load capacitance) from
International Crystal Manufacturing www.icmfg.com.

Also, I pulled a 820 ohm  1/4 watt resistor from my junkbox.

If you are planning to use the K1 ATU with this board, you should also order
the P1 (3 pin) and P2 (10 pin - 5 x 2) headers from Elecraft.

The parts from Elecraft (without the headers) were less than $15 and the
crystal was priced at $17.95 - not an unreasonable price IMHO.

I assembled the 2 band board with the 80 meter components in the band 2
locations as indicated in the instructions - except for L5 and L6 were left
empty at this time.

Next, the low- pass toroids were wound with 21 turns (20 inches of wire) on
the T50-1 (blue) cores, and soldered into the L9 and L10 positions.

The 4.7 uH variable inductors were soldered in the positions for L5 and L6.
On the bottom of the board, 1200 pf capacitors were soldered across L5 and
L6 (the outer pins on the side of the can with 3 pins).  in addition, the
820 ohm resistor was soldered across L6.

The 33 uH inductor goes into the position marked for C13.  Form the leads
under the inductor body so that the leads fit into the holes - my inductor
is parallel with the board and tucked between the bandpass filter cans.

Mount the 9.8 mHz crystal at the X1 position and solder the grounding wire
to the side of the can (or top if you prefer).

The remaining capacitors are fitted into the following positions:
C1 & C5 - 680 pf
C2 & C4 - 2700 pf
C3           - 12 pf

C11 & C15 - 1800 pf
C12 & C14 - 560 pf
C21 & C23 - 1500 pf
C22            - 2700 pf

You should now have all the holes filled, and can proceed to align the 2
band board following the instructions in the K1 manual.  Mine came up with
no trouble at all.

Perhaps Wayne and Eric would consider putting together a package of parts as
an option for the 2 band board is there are enough requests for it.  All the
parts are stock items for Elecraft except for the crystal.

Have fun with it, and let me know your results if you duplicate my efforts.
In the next few weeks (well, maybe after Christmas) I will put together an
article with a couple of photos for my webpage - I'll let you know when I
have it complete.

73,
Don W3FPR


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Re: Re: KFL1-2 on 160 meters

Mike Morrow-3
Don wrote:

>...the following is a copy of my post a long time ago that described
>how to put a K1 2 band board on 160 meters.  Unfortunately,
>Elecraft has not included this as a band kit....

Great post.  I'd missed it somehow, but I've got it on file now.  Thanks!

I'm personally not all that interested in 160m QRP just right now, but it certainly seems as though this should be a standard K1 option, officially supported by Elecraft.  I wonder why it isn't?

73,
Mike / KK5F
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