KIO2 troubleshooting

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KIO2 troubleshooting

Jason Marten
Sorry to interrupt anybody's field day plans!

I just built the KIO2, but couldn't establish a connection with
Hyperterminal and K2Remote software.

So, I went to the DC Voltage chart, and found the following differences (I
used a 13.8 V power supply).  (The values with *'s by them in the manual
were pretty close)

J1-2:  -11V, not -8
J1-3:  0V, not 0.1
J1-4:  0V, not 4.5
U1-2:  0V, not 0.1
U1-5:  -11.2V, not -8
U1-8:  -11.2V, not -9
U1-13:  4.96V, not 4.5
U1-15:  4.96V, not 4.5
J2-7:  0V, not 4.5

I went to the control board, U6-25 is 5V (someone else on the mailing list
had 0 here for a similar problem as mine).  P4-7 on the control board is
also 0V.

Any ideas?  Everything up to now has been working fine.  Last thing I added
on was RX160 which I haven't used.  Before that, KAT2, which worked fine
(haven't tried it since building KIO2).  I haven't noticed any soldering
problems or anything like that.

Thanks.


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Re: KIO2 troubleshooting

Matt Osborn
I had to remove the jack screws from the connectors to make a solid
connection.  They wouldn't allow the connectors to mate deep enough.

On Sat, 25 Jun 2005 05:00:41 +0000, "Jason Marten"
<[hidden email]> wrote:

>Sorry to interrupt anybody's field day plans!
>
>I just built the KIO2, but couldn't establish a connection with
>Hyperterminal and K2Remote software.
>
>So, I went to the DC Voltage chart, and found the following differences (I
>used a 13.8 V power supply).  (The values with *'s by them in the manual
>were pretty close)
>
>J1-2:  -11V, not -8
>J1-3:  0V, not 0.1
>J1-4:  0V, not 4.5
>U1-2:  0V, not 0.1
>U1-5:  -11.2V, not -8
>U1-8:  -11.2V, not -9
>U1-13:  4.96V, not 4.5
>U1-15:  4.96V, not 4.5
>J2-7:  0V, not 4.5
>
>I went to the control board, U6-25 is 5V (someone else on the mailing list
>had 0 here for a similar problem as mine).  P4-7 on the control board is
>also 0V.
>
>Any ideas?  Everything up to now has been working fine.  Last thing I added
>on was RX160 which I haven't used.  Before that, KAT2, which worked fine
>(haven't tried it since building KIO2).  I haven't noticed any soldering
>problems or anything like that.
>
>Thanks.
>
>
>_______________________________________________
>Elecraft mailing list
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> http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft   
>
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RE: KIO2 troubleshooting

Ron D'Eau Claire-2
Check the position in which you placed the screws in the DB-9 cable housing.
Many ops position the screws too far out. The shoulders on the screws go
between the stops molded into the plastic so the threaded portions cannot
extend more than 1/8" (3 mm) out of the housing.

There's a photograph showing the proper position of the screws in DB-9
housing in the XV Transverter manual. See Page 70. It's available on the
Elecraft web site (www.elecraft.com).

Ron AC7AC

 

-----Original Message-----
From: [hidden email]
[mailto:[hidden email]] On Behalf Of Matt Osborn
Sent: Friday, June 24, 2005 10:17 PM
To: [hidden email]
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] KIO2 troubleshooting


I had to remove the jack screws from the connectors to make a solid
connection.  They wouldn't allow the connectors to mate deep enough.

On Sat, 25 Jun 2005 05:00:41 +0000, "Jason Marten" <[hidden email]>
wrote:

>Sorry to interrupt anybody's field day plans!
>
>I just built the KIO2, but couldn't establish a connection with
>Hyperterminal and K2Remote software.
>
>So, I went to the DC Voltage chart, and found the following differences
>(I
>used a 13.8 V power supply).  (The values with *'s by them in the manual
>were pretty close)
>
>J1-2:  -11V, not -8
>J1-3:  0V, not 0.1
>J1-4:  0V, not 4.5
>U1-2:  0V, not 0.1
>U1-5:  -11.2V, not -8
>U1-8:  -11.2V, not -9
>U1-13:  4.96V, not 4.5
>U1-15:  4.96V, not 4.5
>J2-7:  0V, not 4.5
>
>I went to the control board, U6-25 is 5V (someone else on the mailing
>list
>had 0 here for a similar problem as mine).  P4-7 on the control board is
>also 0V.
>
>Any ideas?  Everything up to now has been working fine.  Last thing I
>added
>on was RX160 which I haven't used.  Before that, KAT2, which worked fine
>(haven't tried it since building KIO2).  I haven't noticed any soldering
>problems or anything like that.
>
>Thanks.
>
>
>_______________________________________________
>Elecraft mailing list
>Post to: [hidden email]
>You must be a subscriber to post to the list.
>Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.):
> http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft   
>
>Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm
>Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com

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Re: KIO2 troubleshooting

Jason Marten
In reply to this post by Jason Marten
I don't think it's a problem with the jack screws, as they back out
completely into the housing, and I can plug in the cable all the way to my
computer and KIO2 board.

My biggest concern is that P4-7 on the control board is putting out 0 V.  
>From the troubleshooting section of the KIO2 manual, it says that J2-7 (and
also P1 and J1, because they are connected in parallel except for pin 8)
should have 4.5 V, and J2-7 mates with P4-7 on the control board.

If I do hook up the KIO2 to my serial port with the computer on, J2-7 drops
down to -4 V or so.  The manual says to unplug it from the computer when you
do the reading, however.

Any ideas?  The only thing I did on the control board besides clipping the
leads on P5 was tighten U4 because the bolt was a little loose.


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RE: KIO2 troubleshooting

Don Wilhelm-3
Jason,

The voltage at P4-7 has nothing to do with a failure to communicate with the
computer - that pin carries the ALC signal which has its source on the KSB2
board.  If the KSB2 is installed (as it apparently was for the creation of
the chart in the KIO2 manual), P4-7 will be 4.5 to 5 volts, but if the KSB2
is not installed, there is nothing to drive the line and it will simply
float.  Your meter may be reading a bit of noise pickup on this line when
the computer is plugged in, but I would bet that if you grounded it through
a resistor of about 10k ohms (large enough to draw only a small bit of
current), I think you would see this -4 volts go to zero.

The only lines that are concerned with computer communication are the RxD
and the TxD lines (assuming signal ground is intact).

Do you have the menu set for PORT ON?

73,
Don W3FPR


> -----Original Message-----
>
>
> I don't think it's a problem with the jack screws, as they back out
> completely into the housing, and I can plug in the cable all the
> way to my
> computer and KIO2 board.
>
> My biggest concern is that P4-7 on the control board is putting out 0 V.
> >From the troubleshooting section of the KIO2 manual, it says
> that J2-7 (and
> also P1 and J1, because they are connected in parallel except for pin 8)
> should have 4.5 V, and J2-7 mates with P4-7 on the control board.
>
> If I do hook up the KIO2 to my serial port with the computer on,
> J2-7 drops
> down to -4 V or so.  The manual says to unplug it from the
> computer when you
> do the reading, however.
>
> Any ideas?  The only thing I did on the control board besides
> clipping the
> leads on P5 was tighten U4 because the bolt was a little loose.
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> Elecraft mailing list
> Post to: [hidden email]
> You must be a subscriber to post to the list.
> Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.):
>  http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft
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> Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
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>
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Re: KIO2 troubleshooting

Jason Marten
In reply to this post by Jason Marten
Ok, I checked out the voltages on the control board to see if that might
shed some light on anything.  (See page 15, Appendix E, Troubleshooting in
K2 manual)

Q12-E:  4V (not 6)
Q12-B:  4.5V (not 7)
U2-1, 2, 3:  4.07V (not 6.9)
U2-5, 6, 7:  4.5V (not 7.3)
U6-24:  0V (not 5)
U6-25:  5V (not 0)
U6-33:  Fluctated around 0.1V (not 5)
U7-5:  0V (not 5)
U7-6:  5V (not 0)
U8-10:  5V (not 0)
U8-11:  0V (not 5)
U10-3:  0V (not 5*)


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RE: KIO2 troubleshooting

Don Wilhelm-3
Jason,

Nothing in that list is truely abnormal, and they are certainly not
associated with anything that flows through the KIO2.  You should be looking
elsewhere for the source of your problem.

Are you certain that the PORT parameter in the menu is set to ON.

73,
Don W3FPR

> -----Original Message-----
>
> Ok, I checked out the voltages on the control board to see if that might
> shed some light on anything.  (See page 15, Appendix E,
> Troubleshooting in
> K2 manual)
>
> Q12-E:  4V (not 6)
> Q12-B:  4.5V (not 7)
> U2-1, 2, 3:  4.07V (not 6.9)
> U2-5, 6, 7:  4.5V (not 7.3)
> U6-24:  0V (not 5)
> U6-25:  5V (not 0)
> U6-33:  Fluctated around 0.1V (not 5)
> U7-5:  0V (not 5)
> U7-6:  5V (not 0)
> U8-10:  5V (not 0)
> U8-11:  0V (not 5)
> U10-3:  0V (not 5*)
>
>
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RE: KIO2 troubleshooting

Jason Marten
In reply to this post by Jason Marten
Thanks for the time looking at this everyone.  I was just worried about P4-7
because the manual says there should be 4.5 V there.  I do not have KSB2,
tho.

Yes, the port menu item is on.

I'll look at the KIO2 and AUX boards a little more closely.  My computer
hasn't got any serial ports, so I'm using a USB to Serial converter (set to
the specs listed in the manual).  It's worked on other hardware, like my
GPS.  It has some LEDs on it showing traffic back and forth.  My computer is
trying to send commands to the KIO2, but nothing is coming back based on the
LED status.  I did try the Port menu test option, and the K2 shows "test" on
its display, but nothing lights up on the USB/Serial converter.

-----Original Message-----

Jason,

Nothing in that list is truely abnormal, and they are certainly not
associated with anything that flows through the KIO2.  You should be looking
elsewhere for the source of your problem.

Are you certain that the PORT parameter in the menu is set to ON.

73,
Don W3FPR


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RE: KIO2 troubleshooting

Don Wilhelm-3
Jason,

Do you have the computer port set correctly?  4800 baud, 8 data bits, no
parity, 1 or 2 stop bits, handshaking set off (none).

Some USB to serial port adapters have caused problems with some pieces of
control software.  Can you use a different computer with a real serial port
(or a different adapter) for a test?

73,
Don W3FPR

> -----Original Message-----
>
> Thanks for the time looking at this everyone.  I was just worried
> about P4-7
> because the manual says there should be 4.5 V there.  I do not have KSB2,
> tho.
>
> Yes, the port menu item is on.
>
> I'll look at the KIO2 and AUX boards a little more closely.  My computer
> hasn't got any serial ports, so I'm using a USB to Serial
> converter (set to
> the specs listed in the manual).  It's worked on other hardware, like my
> GPS.  It has some LEDs on it showing traffic back and forth.  My
> computer is
> trying to send commands to the KIO2, but nothing is coming back
> based on the
> LED status.  I did try the Port menu test option, and the K2
> shows "test" on
> its display, but nothing lights up on the USB/Serial converter.
>
>
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RE: KIO2 troubleshooting

Jason Marten
In reply to this post by Jason Marten
I have the port settings set up exactly as you said.  I thought about taking
it to work next week where my computer has a real serial port, I'll report
back then on how it goes.

-----Original Message-----
Jason,

Do you have the computer port set correctly?  4800 baud, 8 data bits, no
parity, 1 or 2 stop bits, handshaking set off (none).

Some USB to serial port adapters have caused problems with some pieces of
control software.  Can you use a different computer with a real serial port
(or a different adapter) for a test?

73,
Don W3FPR


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