Thanks to all who responded, both on and off the reflector.
Tom N0SS and Don W3FPR were right - it's actually very easy to get the
inserts out. The inserts were squeezed together when I was soldering them (i
put them into a "3rd hand" which apparently was clamping down rather
tightly) which caused them not to work anymore. I just had to open up the
contact fingers a bit and no more worries!
Anyhow - problem solved.
I just finalized the testing of the KPA 100 and I'm happy to report all
works FB. Maybe I've adjusted the bias current a bit on the conservative
side, max power out is about 90 watts into a dummy load but the difference
between 90 and 110 watts will never be noticed in practice.
Thanks again for all the good advice I got while building my K2/KSB2/KPA100.
Hope I'll be able to return the favour one day and to maybe work you guys on
the air.
73 de Glenn ON4WIX
K2/100 s/n 5361
----- Original Message -----
From: "Tom Hammond" <
[hidden email]>
To: "Missouri Guy, N0TT" <
[hidden email]>; <
[hidden email]>;
<
[hidden email]>
Sent: Monday, May 29, 2006 6:18 PM
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] KPA100 Receiver Tests failed! - Problem nearlysolved
(Crimp pin removal)
> Hi Charlie:
>
> Unfortunately these ate not cylindrical-bodied connectors. So the
> thin-wall brass tubing won't work here... too bad, too... that method
> works GREAT on many MOLEX-type connectors... I usually salvage old
> telescoping transistor radio antennas for that specific use.
>
> Fortunately, all he has to do is to reach in thru the access hole for each
> pin and depress the little locking finger and pull the pin out, then bend
> the finger back up into position.
>
> 73,
>
> Tom N0SS
>
> At 10:23 AM 5/29/2006, Missouri Guy, N0TT wrote:
>>I don't know if the pins are the same type I have used
>>and removed, but I used a piece of thin-walled brass
>>tubing just small enough to clear the plastic connector.
>>I just push the tubing in over the pins and the "tangs"
>>on the connector are released.
>>
>>73,
>>Charlie, N0TT
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