: KRX3 live

[Raymond METZGER]

Hi Mike and Elecrafters,

I started assembling the KRX3 yesterday at 2 p.m. and switched the K3 on at
9 p.m. after having also installed additional crystal filters
(Better to do it at the same time rather than disassembling the rig once
again).

I'm impressed by those who got it in less than three hours !

Although my K3 is # 615, I had to solder the additional resistor in parallel
with R91 (My RF board is Rev A). W4 was a soldered jumper, not easily
accessible, even after taking the KBPF3 board away. But the most unfriendly
step was the last one, plugging the KRX3 module into the sub-in and sub-out
connectors and managing the TMP coax. Plugging the Front panel into the main
board was for me much easier than when assembling the K3 (experience curve
impact, probably)

When you switch your rig on and nothing works, don't panic and take a breath
: if the main receiver is dumb, it's because the RF gain pot has been
inadvertently turned fully counterclockwise during the surgery, if the
sub-receiver is dumb, it's because some parameters have not been properly
set (crystal filter in my case), and if you get an ERR PL2 message, it's
because you need first to upgrade the software and secondly to make a
synthesizer calibration !  Finally my KRX3 is working FB and there was no
problem with the assembling !

Raymond, F4FNT
K3/100 # 615, K2/100 # 5,636






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[Joe Subich, W4TV-3]

All very true ...

> But the most unfriendly step was the
> last one, plugging the KRX3 module into the sub-in and
> sub-out connectors and managing the TMP coax. Plugging the
> Front panel into the main board was for me much easier than
> when assembling the K3 (experience curve impact, probably)

Partly because some of the TMP cables - particularly those
from the reference boards to the synthesizers - are longer
than necessary and loop into the connector area.  20 mm long
cables would be better than the current 30 mm cables.

> if the sub-receiver is dumb, it's because some parameters
> have not been properly set (crystal filter in my case),

Yes!  What is the proper way to set the filter parameters?
I resorted to the K3 Utility and had to set the gain for
the CW filter blind since I could not use the S-meter.  

73,

   ... Joe, W4TV
 

> -----Original Message-----
> From: [hidden email]
> [mailto:[hidden email]] On Behalf Of Raymond METZGER
> Sent: Thursday, September 18, 2008 6:27 AM
> To: 'AD6XY'
> Cc: [hidden email]; 'f8crh'
> Subject: [Elecraft] [K3] : KRX3 live
>
>
> Hi Mike and Elecrafters,
>
> I started assembling the KRX3 yesterday at 2 p.m. and
> switched the K3 on at 9 p.m. after having also installed
> additional crystal filters (Better to do it at the same time
> rather than disassembling the rig once again).
>
> I'm impressed by those who got it in less than three hours !
>
> Although my K3 is # 615, I had to solder the additional
> resistor in parallel with R91 (My RF board is Rev A). W4 was
> a soldered jumper, not easily accessible, even after taking
> the KBPF3 board away. But the most unfriendly step was the
> last one, plugging the KRX3 module into the sub-in and
> sub-out connectors and managing the TMP coax. Plugging the
> Front panel into the main board was for me much easier than
> when assembling the K3 (experience curve impact, probably)
>
> When you switch your rig on and nothing works, don't panic
> and take a breath
> : if the main receiver is dumb, it's because the RF gain pot
> has been inadvertently turned fully counterclockwise during
> the surgery, if the sub-receiver is dumb, it's because some
> parameters have not been properly set (crystal filter in my
> case), and if you get an ERR PL2 message, it's because you
> need first to upgrade the software and secondly to make a
> synthesizer calibration !  Finally my KRX3 is working FB and
> there was no problem with the assembling !
>
> Raymond, F4FNT
> K3/100 # 615, K2/100 # 5,636
>
>
>
>
>
>
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> You must be a subscriber to post to the list.
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>
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