having recently bought an assembled K2 I shortly afterwards decided to
have some fun too and ordered the KX1 kit. To start with it got delivered from the US to Germany in only two days after I placed the order online, wow! That was my first electronic project in the last 15 years (I did some before). I assembled the kit with the 30m and ATU options in three days, while spending 5 to 6 hours a day, not more. It was fun! Everything went very smoothly thanks to the excellent assembling manual. I ran two QSOs on 40m yesterday after having finished the assembly and got 599 from YU and UR, using an endfed 20m wire! Today I used 8m of wire with two 10m radials and worked LZ with 599 on 20m band right out of my office. Later tonight at a club station I got 339 from an RA1A while running on batteries at abt 1.5W into an 2x17m duplet. One problem I have encountered is with the plug-in keyer paddle option. The paddle itself works just great, but the captive thumbscrew that is there to lock the paddle to the KX1 frontpanel appears to have been not threaded properly till the very end of its thread. As I didn't have a non-metric threading die at hand I applied some force (with plyers :) trying to get the screw through the threads in one of the aluminium bracket's holes. As a result I now have a screw that is twisted and slightly bent to a side but still doesn't go through the threads in the bracket. I've checked for an imperial threading dye in a hardware shop today... to no avail ... shall I ask Elecraft for a replacement (kind of silly to have only one screw shipped overseas)? Some other notes that maybe somebody on the list can comment on: The current drain I have measured having assembled KX1 and the 30m option with LED set to L3 was 41 mA, I guess it is OK? A little bit more than specified in the manual/errata (should be 35 mA typical, max. 40 mA with headphones and LED out). Also the power I measure on the 50 Ohm load is 5 W on 20m, 6.3 W on 30m and 5.7 W on 40m (ATU in CAL, bypassed). Too high? Dangerous for the PA transistor? I set the R1 and R2 of the ATU to 60% setting as in the errata, but didn't do the optional power calibration yet. During the tests after accomplishing of each stage of the assembly I also sometimes had results that were differing from those given in the manual: After assembly part I (control, display and audio stages): while checking AC voltage on D2 anode I measured 25.9 mV and 25.3mV on D2 cathode (should be less than 20 mV AC rms in both cases). After finishing Assembly Part II (Receiver) resistance checks measured following values that differ from those printed: U4 all other pins: my case 7k (should be more than 10k) U5 all other pins: my case 7k (should be more than 10k) U6 all other pins: my case 8k (should be more than 10k) During the Assembly Part III (Transmitter), resistance checks as outlined on Manual Page 54, those that did not match with these in the manual: Q4 Base in my case 6k (should be more than 10k) Q4 Collector in my case 5.6k (should be more than 10k) Q5 Base in my case 5.6K (should be more than 10k) I still need to calibrate the S-Meter, BFO and DDS. All in all I guess I am happy with this lttle transceiver. Assembling it has been a superb experience, I like its looks, it's powerful package that includes the memory keyer and the ATU, and just can't wait to get qrv it in the field asap Thanks for any replies/comments. 73 de Sergej, DF6MU (ex DL1ABD, UA9CTP) _______________________________________________ Elecraft mailing list Post to: [hidden email] You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com |
Wow... I guess that is not a QRP rig if you have that much power !
My external power meter said I was getting nearly 4 watt from my KX1. The test equipment at work said it was 3.1 W. It is hard to make accurate measurements at these lower power levels with typical equipment "designed" for "hams". My kx1 paddles the screw was "just barely long enough". I had used a lockwasher that was just too thick. I have put a very thin one in there. It is not the strongest attachment a person could design, but this rig was designed for portability, not combat. I guess I am getting two hole turns in there. Isn't the female threads for the paddles a pressed-in nut ? (In the U.S. they are called "PEM nuts" (the initials of a popular screw manufacturer ). You might find a capable amateur machinist and see if that one could be pressed out and a metric one installed in it's place. Perhaps you could even let us yankees know how to obtain metric versions of the pressed-in nut and the screw :-) Congratulations on your kit. You will surely use it on the air a lot ! de WB9JTK KX1 s.n. 861 >The paddle itself works just great, but the captive thumbscrew that is >there to lock the paddle to the KX1 frontpanel appears to have been not >threaded properly till the very end of its thread. As I didn't have a >non-metric threading die at hand I applied some force (with plyers Some >other notes that maybe somebody on the list can comment on: > _________________________________________________________________ Get ready for school! Find articles, homework help and more in the Back to School Guide! http://special.msn.com/network/04backtoschool.armx _______________________________________________ Elecraft mailing list Post to: [hidden email] You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com |
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