Hello, everybody.
If you care about the impressions of a first-time builder, here are my notes and questions regarding the receiver assembly part: -page 30, finding inductors: all inductors' colors match, save for L7 that is really org-vio-gold (two people pronounced it "definitely orange") instead of yel-vio-gold. Is it a packing error or a documentation error? Should I ask Elecraft for a new inductor? Mind you, I have performed a full inventory of every single part, taking care not to mix inductors and resistances and and this is the only odd bit that I have found. -page 38, installation of X5: in page 21 (X1 installation), the warning about too much solder flowing through the holes must have made quite an impression on my inexperienced mind because when the time came to install X5 I promptly had a cow upon finding that one of the pins was shorted to ground... I removed it, cleaned the pads, reinstalled it and... again shorted to ground... then I did what I should have done earlier and checked the schematics... and felt very very stupid 8-P On a related note, how much clearance is there between the crystals and the battery packs? My crystals are not as well-aligned as those of other builders and I soldered the ground wire on the side rather than on top, per instructions. -page 47, receive current drain test: text states typical receive drain is 32mA; the included errata sheet instructs the builder to correct the figure (35mA) on the specifications page, but not here. Display brightness at 2 gives 35mA and the only thing that saved me from another silly have-a-cow situation was good memory. Ok, I know: it's a trivial mistake but it also is rather easy to fix in future releases of the documentation 8-) All in all, I'm pretty satisfied with the results and even toroids were not that big deal I thought they would be: I used a short scrap to try out the three stripping methods and settled for sandpaper alone (wound toroids both had 0.3 ohms for a 13in/33cm wire). Far trickier for me was the "piggyback" installation of C56 and R32! Alignments and tests went fine. Parroting a well-known commercial: "KX1: 360 EUR; Getting it to work after one full day of assembly and many mistakes: priceless!" Pictures are available here (no fancy graphics here, sorry): http://andrea.borgia.bo.it/kx1 B73, Andrea. -- Homepage: http://andrea.borgia.bo.it / Amateur radio: IZ4FHT A: Because it messes up the order in which people normally read text. Q: Why is top-posting such a bad thing? A: Top-posting. Q: What is the most annoying thing on usenet and in e-mail? _______________________________________________ Elecraft mailing list Post to: [hidden email] You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com |
Hi Andrea!
You wrote: L7 ... is really org-vio-gold (two people pronounced it "definitely orange") instead of yel-vio-gold. Is it a packing error or a documentation error? ----------- L7 is a 4.7 uH inductor, so it is really Yellow! Orange-violet-gold would be 3.7 uH, not 4.7 uH. How does its color compare alongside L10, which is orange-orange-black (33 uH)? --------------------------------- You wrote: On a related note, how much clearance is there between the crystals and the battery packs? My crystals are not as well-aligned as those of other builders and I soldered the ground wire on the side rather than on top, per instructions. ----------------------------- page 47, receive current drain test: text states typical receive drain is 32mA; the included errata sheet instructs the builder to correct the figure (35mA) on the specifications page, but not here. Display brightness at 2 gives 35mA and the only thing that saved me from another silly have-a-cow situation was good memory. ------------------------------- In both places the spec says "about". The current will typically be a little lower at the point of the test than in normal operation because no signals are being received at that point. Sorry for the confusion. You make a good point about a better-defined spec. for the current drain test. I'll bring it up with the KX1 designer (Wayne). Ron AC7AC _______________________________________________ Elecraft mailing list Post to: [hidden email] You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com |
Ron D'Eau Claire wrote:
> L7 is a 4.7 uH inductor, so it is really Yellow! Orange-violet-gold would be > 3.7 uH, not 4.7 uH. How does its color compare alongside L10, which is > orange-orange-black (33 uH)? I don't have the KX1 here with me, so I asked my friend Nicola to check this. In the worst case, I should be able to check again myself on saturday. I do recall, though, that I compared the color bands with those on other inductors and resistors under the same lighting conditions and could tell which ones were yellow and which ones orange. If my L7's first band turns out to be indeed yellow, then it means the manufacturer got a batch of truly weird paint ;-) > Sorry for the confusion. You make a good point about a better-defined spec. > for the current drain test. I'll bring it up with the KX1 designer (Wayne). This is my first kit and first big project, so my comments should be taken with a grain of salt. However, I try to follow the instructions very very closely (I've actually read them back-to-back once before even getting the package!) and I'm pleased to hear my little contribution will further improve an already awesome manual. B73, Andrea. -- Homepage: http://andrea.borgia.bo.it / Amateur radio: IZ4FHT A: Because it messes up the order in which people normally read text. Q: Why is top-posting such a bad thing? A: Top-posting. Q: What is the most annoying thing on usenet and in e-mail? _______________________________________________ Elecraft mailing list Post to: [hidden email] You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com |
Andrea wrote:
This is my first kit and first big project, so my comments should be taken with a grain of salt. However, I try to follow the instructions very very closely (I've actually read them back-to-back once before even getting the package!) and I'm pleased to hear my little contribution will further improve an already awesome manual. ----------- As a writer I never object to comments about stumbling points in the instructions. The one you tripped over was something I should have brought it to Wayne's attention. Our objective with the Elecraft kits is that they be buildable by anyone who can solder, follow instructions and do basic electrical measurements such as resistance and voltage. An instruction for something to be "...about x mA..." is never good and the worst place to put it is in a manual that will be used by someone who doesn't have a lot of experience with the circuits used in the radio. So I really appreciate your pointing it out. About the yellow vs. orange color coding, I don't know if Elecraft even stocks a 3.7 uH inductor in that size. If they do, I guess it's possible there was a switch. And, yes, I know that some of the colors being used today are not the best. Don mentioned that earlier in a post here. We used to see big stripes or round dots of bright unmistakable colors, but lately I get the feeling that those choosing color-coding paints for some companies are trying to make a fashion statement, not communicate a parts value! I'd say you have a 99% chance of having the right part already. You might drop a question about whether it could be an error to either "[hidden email]" (Gary) or "[hidden email]". The latter e-mail address is strictly for ordering parts, but they might be able to clarify whether it is even possible that you got the wrong part based on what they carry in stock. Ron AC7AC _______________________________________________ Elecraft mailing list Post to: [hidden email] You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com |
Andrea,
Not to dimish anything Ron said, I should point out that a value of 3.7 is a rarity. The standard 5% values have significant digits of 33, 36, 39, 43, 47 and 51 for the value range in question. Expect a standard value unless you know it is a precision or 1% value part (and that fact is usually stated in the parts list) and you will seldom be incorrect. All that said, you very likely have the correct 4.7 uH choke. 73, Don W3FPR ----- Original Message ----- From: "Ron D'Eau Claire" <[hidden email]> > > About the yellow vs. orange color coding, I don't know if Elecraft even > stocks a 3.7 uH inductor in that size. If they do, I guess it's possible > there was a switch. > _______________________________________________ Elecraft mailing list Post to: [hidden email] You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com |
In reply to this post by Ron D'Eau Claire-2
[CC'ing to Service(Gary) per Ron's suggestion]
Ron D'Eau Claire wrote: > About the yellow vs. orange color coding, I don't know if Elecraft even > stocks a 3.7 uH inductor in that size. If they do, I guess it's possible > there was a switch. At last, I have compared L7 with L10 as you suggested in an earlier post and... the color of the first band is the same shade of orange under all lighting conditions I could try, including natural sunlight. My friend Nicola also took some better pictures (soon to go online) with his digital reflex camera and they're so detailed you can read the bands yourself, just drop me a line if you'd care to 8-) So, either the manufacturer misprinted the first band as orange instead of yellow or my KX1 has got a 3.7uH inductor instead of a 4.7uH. Funny thing is, apparently it doesn't make much difference! Now crossing "live" to Gary... does Elecraft carry 3.7uH inductors in stock in the same size as the KX1 L7? And, more importantly, does it matter if the value is not correct, in the shorty/long run? B73, Andrea. -- Homepage: http://andrea.borgia.bo.it / Amateur radio: IZ4FHT A: Because it messes up the order in which people normally read text. Q: Why is top-posting such a bad thing? A: Top-posting. Q: What is the most annoying thing on usenet and in e-mail? _______________________________________________ Elecraft mailing list Post to: [hidden email] You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com |
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