KX1 Problem More Info
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Should have added that the problem continues even with no key installed.. I have since reseated the MCU but it still continues to transmit "dahs" when I turn on the power with no key installed.
Read in the archives that another ham had the same problem with his back in June and have sent him an email. Any suggestions are appreciated. 72, Bob WA4MQW "Bob C." <[hidden email]> wrote: Has worked fine since building earlier this year but after returning from a trip via airline it starts transmitting as soon as I turn it on. Sending 'dahs" with a key plugged in. When I plug in a key I hear its side tone as I normally would under the continuous series of "dahs" being transmitted. When first turned on I see the band is 14mhz then the display only shows led bars when it is sending. I will take it out of the case later in the week and see what I can find but wanted to see if anyone else had experienced the same problem and what was the fix? 73, Bob WA4MQW __________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? Tired of spam? Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around http://mail.yahoo.com _______________________________________________ Elecraft mailing list Post to: [hidden email] You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com |
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Don and Jim thanks for your help.
I may have discovered my problem. On page 18 of the KX1 manual it says "DO NOT TRIM the 28-pin socket pins before or after soldering. These pins are hollow and form the lower part of the socket for the IC pins." When building, I was so used to trimming pins after soldering that I made the error of trimming the hollow pins after soldering the IC socket. When I first completed the KX1 I remember that U1 the MCU never seemed to seat fully but the radio worked fine so I never thought about it anymore. Since having the problem I asked help on, I looked closely at the poor seating and re-read the manual (p18) and realize my major mistake. In the process of trying to seat U1 today one of the pins broke off but I may be able to solder a small wire to the remaining base. Question for Don, Jim or anyone with experience in this. If I completely removed the ruined 28pin socket and am able to solder a little wire onto the broken pin of U1, would it work to carefully solder U1 directly to the circuit board without using the low profile 28 pin socket? I suspect that all my problems stem from this error I made early on and was just lucky that it has worked for almost 6 mos. Thanks for all your help again, Bob WA4MQW "Bob C." <[hidden email]> wrote: Should have added that the problem continues even with no key installed.. I have since reseated the MCU but it still continues to transmit "dahs" when I turn on the power with no key installed. Read in the archives that another ham had the same problem with his back in June and have sent him an email. Any suggestions are appreciated. 72, Bob WA4MQW "Bob C." wrote: Has worked fine since building earlier this year but after returning from a trip via airline it starts transmitting as soon as I turn it on. Sending 'dahs" with a key plugged in. When I plug in a key I hear its side tone as I normally would under the continuous series of "dahs" being transmitted. When first turned on I see the band is 14mhz then the display only shows led bars when it is sending. I will take it out of the case later in the week and see what I can find but wanted to see if anyone else had experienced the same problem and what was the fix? 73, Bob WA4MQW __________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? Tired of spam? Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around http://mail.yahoo.com _______________________________________________ Elecraft mailing list Post to: [hidden email] You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com __________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? Tired of spam? Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around http://mail.yahoo.com _______________________________________________ Elecraft mailing list Post to: [hidden email] You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com |
RE: KX1 Problem Found problem maybe
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Bob,
The correct way to fix it is to obtain a new firmware chip and socket from Elecraft. You certainly can remove the socket and solder the firmware directly into the PC board, and yes you can use a wire to repair the broken pin. That is the least expense and for this instance, it would be expedient. HOWEVER, if you ever want to change the firmware, you will have to remove the old firmware IC at that time (and perhaps install a socket). The choice is yours to make - electrically it will make no difference, socket or no socket. 73, Don W3FPR > -----Original Message----- > Question for Don, Jim or anyone with experience in this. > > If I completely removed the ruined 28pin socket and am able to > solder a little wire onto the broken pin of U1, would it work to > carefully solder U1 directly to the circuit board without using > the low profile 28 pin socket? > > I suspect that all my problems stem from this error I made early > on and was just lucky that it has worked for almost 6 mos. > > Thanks for all your help again, > > Bob > > No virus found in this outgoing message. Checked by AVG Free Edition. Version: 7.5.432 / Virus Database: 268.15.27/602 - Release Date: 12/25/2006 10:19 AM _______________________________________________ Elecraft mailing list Post to: [hidden email] You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com |
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At 12/25/2006 11:27 AM, Don Wilhelm wrote:
>Bob, > >The correct way to fix it is to obtain a new firmware chip and socket from >Elecraft. >You certainly can remove the socket and solder the firmware directly into >the PC board, and yes you can use a wire to repair the broken pin. That is >the least expense and for this instance, it would be expedient. HOWEVER, if >you ever want to change the firmware, you will have to remove the old >firmware IC at that time (and perhaps install a socket). > >The choice is yours to make - electrically it will make no difference, >socket or no socket. You may want to use two low profile sockets if you have a couple in your junk box. Put the firmware chip in one and solder the broken lead to the socket. Then solder the second socket to the PCB and install the first. This allows you to replace the firmware chip if necessary. >73, >Don W3FPR > >> -----Original Message----- >> Question for Don, Jim or anyone with experience in this. >> >> If I completely removed the ruined 28pin socket and am able to >> solder a little wire onto the broken pin of U1, would it work to >> carefully solder U1 directly to the circuit board without using >> the low profile 28 pin socket? >> >> I suspect that all my problems stem from this error I made early >> on and was just lucky that it has worked for almost 6 mos. >> >> Thanks for all your help again, >> >> Bob >> >> >-- >No virus found in this outgoing message. >Checked by AVG Free Edition. >Version: 7.5.432 / Virus Database: 268.15.27/602 - Release Date: 12/25/2006 >10:19 AM > >_______________________________________________ >Elecraft mailing list >Post to: [hidden email] >You must be a subscriber to post to the list. >Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): > http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft > >Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm >Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com _______________________________________________ Elecraft mailing list Post to: [hidden email] You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com |
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In reply to this post by Bob C.
Jim, Glad to know that I was not the only one to make this mistake. We have been trained well to cut pins after soldering. Thanks for you offer of the chip. Mine is the very latest since I also have the uninstalled 30/80 kit I ordered at the same time this summer. The number label on the chip is KX1 1.02. I appreciate your kind offer but I'll just order a new chip and socket from Elecraft and not rush this job.
Glen, I appreciate your advice about breaking up the old socket to help save the circuit board in the de-soldering process. Don't have a vaccum pump just the cheap hand (RS) spring loaded type so hope it works. This is why I love the Elecraft Group always a great bunch of people ready to help when needed and when not I enjoy and learn from all the posts well most of them. 73 to all Bob WA4MQW k4zm <[hidden email]> wrote: Bob: I did the same thing on the first KX1 I built. I ordered a new socket from Elecraft and replaced it. If you decide to remove the socket, be sure and cut up the socket on the top of the board so that you can remove the pins one at a time. That way you will not damage the circuit board. What is the version on the firmware? I have several chips that I have removed from KX1s when I upgraded them with the 30 Meter board and the 80/30 meter mod. I may have one I can send you for free. The one I have is KX1 Ver 1.01 and I also found a new socket in my parts box. You are welcome to both. 73 Jim Younce K4ZM _______________________________________________ Elecraft mailing list Post to: [hidden email] You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com |
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