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We've located a 4-AAA cell battery holder that would fit inside the KX1
(one at each end of the bottom cover, as with the present AA holders). 8 cells would provide 10 or 12 volts, giving you significantly more power output than 6 of the same cells (as much as 4 watts). The tradeoff would be in battery life. AAA-size NiMH, alkaline and lithium cells provide around 1000 to 1250 mA-hours, or around half as much as similar high-capacity AA cells. Another option would be to use a small lithium polymer battery. 11 volts at up to 1450 mA-hours or so might be possible, although these batteries are very expensive. AAAs might be preferable in a pinch because you can buy them anywhere. In the field, you can borrow triple-As from flashlights or other portable electronic devices. The difference in weight between 8 triple As and a LiPo battery is probably only couple of ounces, so weight is not likely to be the primary criteria. You'd probably get five to eight hours of casual operation with NiMH, LiPo, or lithium cells, which are preferable to alkalines because of their flat discharge curve. Of course you could recharge NiMH or LiPo cells in the field with a small solar panel. (Has anyone tried using 8 AAA cells with the KX1?) We could (in theory) create a new bottom cover option for the KX1 that would include two 4-cell AAA holders or a LiPo battery, plus a charge controller that would run from the KX1's DC input jack. The battery holders and charge controller components could be soldered to a thin PCB module that runs the full length of the bottom cover. In the case of AAAs, we'd include a switch to select rechargeable or non-rechargeable batteries. You might be able to recharge while operating, although this would have to be tested, since some charge controller generate significant noise. Any input on such a product would be appreciated. If there were significant interest, we'd try to have it ready early next year. 73, Wayne N6KR --- http://www.elecraft.com _______________________________________________ Elecraft mailing list Post to: [hidden email] You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com |
Think about a portable battery pack which the sub-zero operator can keep in
an inside pocket. This pack supports 8 or (better) 10 x AA Ni-MH. This gives us 2800 mAH @ 12v. The case should be rugged. You could add a battery status indicator - the Elecraft junkies would then have another kit they can buy (the BAT1 kit)! Then of course there's solar inputs to run in parallel - would be very handy! Simon Brown --- www.hb9drv.ch www.laax.ch ----- Original Message ----- From: "wayne burdick" <[hidden email]> > Any input on such a product would be appreciated. If there were > significant interest, we'd try to have it ready early next year. _______________________________________________ Elecraft mailing list Post to: [hidden email] You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com |
In reply to this post by wayne burdick
i am still using NiCad's...in my KX1.
KX1 - 1/2AA NiCad Battery Modification...Rev. D. Originally i had 6 'AA' NiCad batteries in the KX1 but i needed more power for pedestrian mobile operation. i removed 4 of the 'AA' NiCad batteries and added 8 - 1/2'AA'-250's (short type AA) to boost the voltage to 14 VDC. That raises the output power to 3 Watts. The operating time is about 3 hours on a full charge (depending on your code speed and number of "Q's).. These batteries are available from Batteries Plus. (After these batteries age, they will have slightly lower terminal voltage, then you can add 2 additional 1/2 AA batteries; i started with 8 and now i am using 10 - 1/2 AA-250's and one full sized AA NiCad, still keeping the voltage at or below the KX1 maximum of 14V. So be sure to buy a few extra 1/2 AA's). The 1/2 AA's have flat contacts so they need to have a little solder blob added to the + terminal so they will touch each other when in series in the battery holder. These 1/2 AA 'short' batteries (250 mAH) are 7/8 inch long. (There is a lon ger 1/2 'AA' battery that is 1.2 inches long but it won't fit the battery holder). Note: These NiCad batteries weigh 4 oz and the Enegerizer L91's also weigh 4 oz. The capacity of the Energizer L91 non-rechargeable battery is 2.9 AH (at 1.0V discharge voltage) and the Rechargeable NiCad gives 0.25 AH, thats only about 9% of the L91 capacity, but it's still very practical. Pictures of the NiCad batteries are on the HFPack2 Yahoogroup web site. See: http://photos.groups.yahoo.com/group/hfpack2 You will have to log in to see the pictures.. Look in the 'Photos' area, Page 2, and in the 'W0RW-Paul' folder. ps: If you make any modification to your KX1 it will void the warranty... --------------- Here is a how you can charge the internal NiCad's without taking the KX1 cover off. (This is not suggested if you are going to use only the primary L91 Li batteries). i installed a small 2.5 mm mono phone jack with a NC switch to the lower corner of the battery chassis. You have to drill hole in the chassis. The jack goes right below the auxiliary DC connector J1. Note: For the J1 power switching modification to work correctly this jack must be isolated from the chassis. That requires a few mica or thin fiber washers and a small piece of tubing, or a flanged insulating washer. This jack has a NC switch built into it so when you plug in the charging plug the internal NiCad batteries are disconnected from the radio and the charging voltage is applied to the batteries even if the radio is turned on. The battery pack wiring connection changes are: black wire to the new charging jack ground pin, red wire to the jack center pin and the normally closed switch wire goes to the red wire of J5-1. Now you can operate the KX1 from the auxiliary DC connector while simultaneously charging the internal NiCad batteries through the new charging jack. You can also monitor the battery voltage through this connector or when not charging the battery, The battery voltage can be displayed by pressing "RIT" and "Band" simultaneously, Twice. The charger can be made from any wall transformer that puts out about 18VDC open circuit. The charging current for the 1/2AA NiCad batteries should be set for 50 ma for 5 hours. You can add a switch to the charger and add an additional resistor to give 10ma for trickle charging. If you leave the KX1 NiCads on trickle charge it will always be ready to go. You will need to insert an appropriate resistor in series with the transformer to limit the charging current. (If you change the number of batteries in the unit you will have to re-adjust the charging current). --------- Here is the KX1 Battery Switching Modification: The original power distribution design "AND's" the internal battery and external battery sources together using 2 diodes. If your external battery voltage goes below the internal battery voltage, the internal batteries will start draining. i left my KX1 on for a few days and after i ran down the external battery and the internal batteries took over and became discharged. These were the expensive Lithium "AA" Primary batteries (L91's). i wanted to save the use of these Li batteries for special uses like Pedestrian Mobiling: See the w0rw/pm KX1 report on the Adventure Radio Society web site at: http://www.arsqrp.com/ars/pages/back_issues/2004_text/0204_text/W0RW.html Here are the details of the DC J1 switching Modification: The Elecraft DC Power connector has an unused (normally closed) switch. This modification will use that switch so that when an external power source is connected the internal batteries will be disconnected, and conversely when the DC power plug is removed the internal batteries will be reconnected. Open the unit on an ESD grounded work station. Separate the battery compartment by pulling the battery connector (J1) out. Cut the 2 traces that ground P1-2 "-" (getting scary now)...Top Side.. Now add an insulated jumper wire from P1-2 "-" to the side contact of J1 (J1 is the power connector), The unused switch contact is soldered to an isolated pad just the left of the marking 'Z2'... That's it.... Now you can protect those internal batteries. One other thing that you can do is to set the LED Display Control to "INF" then the LED display will act as a pilot light. 72 de w0rw Paul [hidden email] Paul Signorelli [hidden email] P.O. Box 6069 Colorado Springs, CO 80934 _______________________________________________ Elecraft mailing list Post to: [hidden email] You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com |
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In reply to this post by wayne burdick
Wayne,
I operate almost exclusively with 10 NiMH AA's and would like an alternate bottom that holds that, if it fits in your production plans. I would also like an 8 cell holder for the Lithium cells. I keep the Lithium primary cells in place but use them only for RX or for when I am using the HFPacker amp to keep from overdriving the amp. I have Lithium Poly rechargeables I got on sale at Halted and might hook them up using the Batteryspace protection board, but the 11.1v is not atractive. A 14.8v with a dropping diode might; I know Oliver KB6BA has been active in this area. Leigh / WA5ZNU On Fri, 25 Nov 2005 9:40 am, wayne burdick wrote: > We've located a 4-AAA cell battery holder that would fit inside the KX1 > (one at each end of the bottom cover, as with the present AA holders). > 8 cells would provide 10 or 12 volts, giving you significantly more > power output than 6 of the same cells (as much as 4 watts). The > tradeoff would be in battery life. AAA-size NiMH, alkaline and lithium > cells provide around 1000 to 1250 mA-hours, or around half as much as > similar high-capacity AA cells. > > Another option would be to use a small lithium polymer battery. 11 > volts at up to 1450 mA-hours or so might be possible, although these > batteries are very expensive. AAAs might be preferable in a pinch > because you can buy them anywhere. In the field, you can borrow > triple-As from flashlights or other portable electronic devices. The > difference in weight between 8 triple As and a LiPo battery is probably > only couple of ounces, so weight is not likely to be the primary > criteria. > > You'd probably get five to eight hours of casual operation with NiMH, > LiPo, or lithium cells, which are preferable to alkalines because of > their flat discharge curve. Of course you could recharge NiMH or LiPo > cells in the field with a small solar panel. (Has anyone tried using 8 > AAA cells with the KX1?) > > We could (in theory) create a new bottom cover option for the KX1 that > would include two 4-cell AAA holders or a LiPo battery, plus a charge > controller that would run from the KX1's DC input jack. The battery > holders and charge controller components could be soldered to a thin > PCB module that runs the full length of the bottom cover. In the case > of AAAs, we'd include a switch to select rechargeable or > non-rechargeable batteries. You might be able to recharge while > operating, although this would have to be tested, since some charge > controller generate significant noise. > > Any input on such a product would be appreciated. If there were > significant interest, we'd try to have it ready early next year. > > 73, > Wayne > N6KR Elecraft mailing list Post to: [hidden email] You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com |
In reply to this post by wayne burdick
wayne burdick wrote:
> Any input on such a product would be appreciated. If there were > significant interest, we'd try to have it ready early next year. LiPo would be nice, for me: I am already using NiMH in the standard cover and given my typical operating situation having 8 cells instead of 6 isn't worth the expense. This assuming I manage to save something to buy it, of course ;-) B73, Andrea. -- Homepage: http://andrea.borgia.bo.it / Amateur radio: IZ4FHT _______________________________________________ Elecraft mailing list Post to: [hidden email] You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com |
In reply to this post by wayne burdick
A rechargeable battery system with a built in charger would have it's appeal
especially if it can be charged from many different sources such as 110/120 VAC 60Hz, 220/240 VAC 50 Hz, 12 or 24 volt automobile cigarette lighter sockets, solar power, etc. If Braun can do it with a razor, just think how much better Elecraft could design it. While your updating the KX1 how about adding receive capability down to to 3.2 Mhz. This would allow listening to the 60, 75, and 90 meter shortwave broadcast bands as well as the 80 and 60 meter amateur bands. :-) Darrell VA7TO On November 25, 2005 09:41 am, wayne burdick wrote: > We could (in theory) create a new bottom cover option for the KX1 that > would include two 4-cell AAA holders or a LiPo battery, plus a charge > controller that would run from the KX1's DC input jack. The battery > holders and charge controller components could be soldered to a thin > PCB module that runs the full length of the bottom cover. In the case > of AAAs, we'd include a switch to select rechargeable or > non-rechargeable batteries. You might be able to recharge while > operating, although this would have to be tested, since some charge > controller generate significant noise. > > Any input on such a product would be appreciated. If there were > significant interest, we'd try to have it ready early next year. > > 73, > Wayne > N6KR > -- Darrell Bellerive Amateur Radio Stations VA7TO and VE7CLA Grand Forks, British Columbia, Canada _______________________________________________ Elecraft mailing list Post to: [hidden email] You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com |
In reply to this post by wayne burdick
I would be really interested in the 8 triple A's NiMH with a charge
controller. This with a an extra backpanel would make it easy to choose between time and power. 73 Nick PAØNCV > We've located a 4-AAA cell battery holder that would fit inside the KX1 > (one at each end of the bottom cover, as with the present AA holders). 8 > cells would provide 10 or 12 volts, giving you significantly more power > output than 6 of the same cells (as much as 4 watts). The tradeoff would > be in battery life. AAA-size NiMH, alkaline and lithium cells provide > around 1000 to 1250 mA-hours, or around half as much as similar > high-capacity AA cells. > > Another option would be to use a small lithium polymer battery. 11 volts > at up to 1450 mA-hours or so might be possible, although these batteries > are very expensive. AAAs might be preferable in a pinch because you can > buy them anywhere. In the field, you can borrow triple-As from flashlights > or other portable electronic devices. The difference in weight between 8 > triple As and a LiPo battery is probably only couple of ounces, so weight > is not likely to be the primary criteria. > > You'd probably get five to eight hours of casual operation with NiMH, > LiPo, or lithium cells, which are preferable to alkalines because of their > flat discharge curve. Of course you could recharge NiMH or LiPo cells in > the field with a small solar panel. (Has anyone tried using 8 AAA cells > with the KX1?) > > We could (in theory) create a new bottom cover option for the KX1 that > would include two 4-cell AAA holders or a LiPo battery, plus a charge > controller that would run from the KX1's DC input jack. The battery > holders and charge controller components could be soldered to a thin PCB > module that runs the full length of the bottom cover. In the case of AAAs, > we'd include a switch to select rechargeable or non-rechargeable > batteries. You might be able to recharge while operating, although this > would have to be tested, since some charge controller generate significant > noise. > > Any input on such a product would be appreciated. If there were > significant interest, we'd try to have it ready early next year. > > 73, > Wayne > N6KR > > _______________________________________________ Elecraft mailing list Post to: [hidden email] You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com |
LiPoly batteries are expensive, lightweight and very dangerous if improperly charged. When things go bad with LiPolies, things can go very bad. I have started using them on my ATS3. Here's a list of do's and don'ts regarding LiPolies and a photo of what happens when the dont's are violated. http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?t=209187 Can you imagine this happening in your KX1? ;) 73, Gil NN4CW K2 3104; KX1 53 _______________________________________________ Elecraft mailing list Post to: [hidden email] You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com |
Wow, from what I (briefly) saw at that link, why would anyone want to use
LiPos? Yes, they may provide some advantages but the disadvantages/risks would certainly (in my mind) overwhelm the advantages. Just my .02. Michael N4NMR > -----Original Message----- > From: [hidden email] > [mailto:[hidden email]] On Behalf Of Gil Stacy > Sent: Saturday, November 26, 2005 8:26 AM > To: [hidden email]; [hidden email] > Subject: Re: [Elecraft] KX1 on AAAs or Lithium Polymer? > > > > LiPoly batteries are expensive, lightweight and very > dangerous if improperly charged. When things go bad with > LiPolies, things can go very bad. I have started using them > on my ATS3. Here's a list of do's and don'ts regarding > LiPolies and a photo of what happens when the dont's are violated. > http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?t=209187 Can > you imagine this happening in your KX1? ;) > > 73, Gil NN4CW > K2 3104; KX1 53 > > > _______________________________________________ > Elecraft mailing list > Post to: [hidden email] > You must be a subscriber to post to the list. > Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): > http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft > > Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm > Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com > > -- > No virus found in this incoming message. > Checked by AVG Free Edition. > Version: 7.1.362 / Virus Database: 267.13.7/182 - Release > Date: 11/24/2005 > > -- No virus found in this outgoing message. Checked by AVG Free Edition. Version: 7.1.362 / Virus Database: 267.13.8/183 - Release Date: 11/25/2005 _______________________________________________ Elecraft mailing list Post to: [hidden email] You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com |
Wow, from what I (briefly) saw at that link, why would anyone want to use >LiPos? Yes, they may provide some advantages but the disadvantages/risks >would certainly (in my mind) overwhelm the advantages. LiPos are like gasoline, both can be very dangerous but with proper use and caution, the risk is minimized. 73, Gil NN4CW _______________________________________________ Elecraft mailing list Post to: [hidden email] You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com |
In reply to this post by wayne burdick
Hi Michael.
i do have a LiIon Hard Carbon external battery pack but i would not use Li Polymers in my pocket because of the fire hazards. i use 10 1/2 "AA" (250mAH) plus one regular "AA" NiCad in my KX1. Send me an email and i will send you the modification details. The KX1 is usually hand held so the batteries stay warm. Paul [hidden email] _______________________________________________ Elecraft mailing list Post to: [hidden email] You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com |
In reply to this post by wayne burdick
One Ham's Experience: Good News: The LiPoly I got (local RC hobby
shop) was just great! I did not deplete it on our cruise thru the Panama Canal, maybe 6 hours operating time (mostly listening and no CQ's), but I did rag chew a bit with a number of SA stns. Ran a Spartan Sprint after return without recharging just to see if I could. Voltage stayed nearly constant until full discharge, at which point it dropped quickly. As quickly, I recharged it on a MAHA 77. Bad News: It worked again very well in the next Spartan. Then I got busy, and didn't check it for perhaps 5 months. At N6A (Alpine County, CQP), I tried it our before the contest, and it was toast. They are extremely light (a factor in Spartan, but I wonder in a back pack), they seem good, but they are expensive, and I've heard they die in a year or so, regardless of how you use them. WAYNE: To your basic questions -- I wouldn't spend much (or any) time adapting the KX1 to LiPo. Mine came with tinned leads on which I put a coax plug. The expense is a real downer. The difference in power between 6 and 8 AA NiMH's seems minimal. Yes, Alkaline dry cells do have a non-flat discharge curve, but you can get an bunch of them at Costco or Sam's and they're what I generally use. I think the weight of the additional batteries is overshadowed by the weight of the solar panel and regulator for those who really do back-pack (I did but I don't anymore -- too old). I know you have to keep up with technology and the ever-increasing demand for "one more feature," but I would caution against messing around with a success, which my KX1 is right now. Besides, we're "amateurs," and you have to leave us something to mess around with! 73, Fred K6DGW Auburn CA CM98lw wayne burdick wrote: > We've located a 4-AAA cell battery holder that would fit inside the KX1 > (one at each end of the bottom cover, as with the present AA holders). 8 > cells would provide 10 or 12 volts, giving you significantly more power > output than 6 of the same cells (as much as 4 watts). The tradeoff would > be in battery life. AAA-size NiMH, alkaline and lithium cells provide > around 1000 to 1250 mA-hours, or around half as much as similar > high-capacity AA cells. > > Another option would be to use a small lithium polymer battery. 11 volts > at up to 1450 mA-hours or so might be possible, although these batteries > are very expensive. AAAs might be preferable in a pinch because you can > buy them anywhere. In the field, you can borrow triple-As from > flashlights or other portable electronic devices. The difference in > weight between 8 triple As and a LiPo battery is probably only couple of > ounces, so weight is not likely to be the primary criteria. > > You'd probably get five to eight hours of casual operation with NiMH, > LiPo, or lithium cells, which are preferable to alkalines because of > their flat discharge curve. Of course you could recharge NiMH or LiPo > cells in the field with a small solar panel. (Has anyone tried using 8 > AAA cells with the KX1?) > > We could (in theory) create a new bottom cover option for the KX1 that > would include two 4-cell AAA holders or a LiPo battery, plus a charge > controller that would run from the KX1's DC input jack. The battery > holders and charge controller components could be soldered to a thin PCB > module that runs the full length of the bottom cover. In the case of > AAAs, we'd include a switch to select rechargeable or non-rechargeable > batteries. You might be able to recharge while operating, although this > would have to be tested, since some charge controller generate > significant noise. > > Any input on such a product would be appreciated. If there were > significant interest, we'd try to have it ready early next year. > > 73, > Wayne > N6KR Elecraft mailing list Post to: [hidden email] You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com |
Another's experience.
I haven't tried the LiPoly batteries yet, but I did find a fairly decent bargain on NiMH batteries & charger at one place. They are made in China, but the quality seems okay. Got 20 (count 'em) 20 2300 MaH AA batteries and a charger that holds 10 at a time for about 50 bucks. The charger is unique in that it works off a 12 volt wall wart @ 800 ma, and the charger contains microprocessor controllers for each slot so it will charge the cells in multiples of one. That's right you can charge 1 or 2 or 3 or any number up to 10 at a time, and the negative contact is spring loaded with a lot of travel so it will charge either AA or AAA type batteries, and the charge controller is smart enough (according to the very sketchy book) to handle either type and either NiCD or NiMH batteries. Each slot has an LED indicator that is red when charging and goes green when the cell is fully charged. I bought a flat 10 AA cell pack from Mouser for a couple of bucks and added a coax power plug on a short lead to it. Gives me 12 volts @ 2.3AH in a reasonably light package, not to mention it was pretty cheap as these things go. I think the name of the place I got the batteries/charger was batteryspot.com or some such. I don't remember, for sure. The verdict is still out on battery/charge life, but I'll report any further positive/negative info when it happens here. Jim - W0EB KX1 #1268 > -----Original Message----- > From: [hidden email] > [mailto:[hidden email]] On Behalf Of Fred Jensen > Sent: Saturday, November 26, 2005 9:06 PM > To: Elecraft Reflector > Subject: Re: [Elecraft] KX1 on AAAs or Lithium Polymer? > > > One Ham's Experience: Good News: The LiPoly I got (local RC hobby > shop) was just great! I did not deplete it on our cruise thru the > Panama Canal, maybe 6 hours operating time (mostly listening and no > CQ's), but I did rag chew a bit with a number of SA stns. > Ran a Spartan > Sprint after return without recharging just to see if I > could. Voltage > stayed nearly constant until full discharge, at which point > it dropped > quickly. As quickly, I recharged it on a MAHA 77. > > Bad News: It worked again very well in the next Spartan. Then I got > busy, and didn't check it for perhaps 5 months. At N6A > (Alpine County, > CQP), I tried it our before the contest, and it was toast. They are > extremely light (a factor in Spartan, but I wonder in a back > pack), they > seem good, but they are expensive, and I've heard they die in > a year or > so, regardless of how you use them. > > WAYNE: To your basic questions -- I wouldn't spend much (or > any) time > adapting the KX1 to LiPo. Mine came with tinned leads on > which I put a > coax plug. The expense is a real downer. The difference in power > between 6 and 8 AA NiMH's seems minimal. Yes, Alkaline dry cells do > have a non-flat discharge curve, but you can get an bunch of them at > Costco or Sam's and they're what I generally use. I think > the weight of > the additional batteries is overshadowed by the weight of the solar > panel and regulator for those who really do back-pack (I did > but I don't > anymore -- too old). > > I know you have to keep up with technology and the ever-increasing > demand for "one more feature," but I would caution against messing > around with a success, which my KX1 is right now. Besides, we're > "amateurs," and you have to leave us something to mess around with! > > 73, > > Fred K6DGW > Auburn CA CM98lw > > > wayne burdick wrote: > > We've located a 4-AAA cell battery holder that would fit inside the > > KX1 > > (one at each end of the bottom cover, as with the present > AA holders). 8 > > cells would provide 10 or 12 volts, giving you > significantly more power > > output than 6 of the same cells (as much as 4 watts). The > tradeoff would > > be in battery life. AAA-size NiMH, alkaline and lithium > cells provide > > around 1000 to 1250 mA-hours, or around half as much as similar > > high-capacity AA cells. > > > > Another option would be to use a small lithium polymer battery. 11 > > volts > > at up to 1450 mA-hours or so might be possible, although > these batteries > > are very expensive. AAAs might be preferable in a pinch > because you can > > buy them anywhere. In the field, you can borrow triple-As from > > flashlights or other portable electronic devices. The difference in > > weight between 8 triple As and a LiPo battery is probably > only couple of > > ounces, so weight is not likely to be the primary criteria. > > > > You'd probably get five to eight hours of casual operation > with NiMH, > > LiPo, or lithium cells, which are preferable to alkalines > because of > > their flat discharge curve. Of course you could recharge > NiMH or LiPo > > cells in the field with a small solar panel. (Has anyone > tried using 8 > > AAA cells with the KX1?) > > > > We could (in theory) create a new bottom cover option for > the KX1 that > > would include two 4-cell AAA holders or a LiPo battery, > plus a charge > > controller that would run from the KX1's DC input jack. The battery > > holders and charge controller components could be soldered > to a thin PCB > > module that runs the full length of the bottom cover. In > the case of > > AAAs, we'd include a switch to select rechargeable or > non-rechargeable > > batteries. You might be able to recharge while operating, > although this > > would have to be tested, since some charge controller generate > > significant noise. > > > > Any input on such a product would be appreciated. If there were > > significant interest, we'd try to have it ready early next year. > > > > 73, > > Wayne > > N6KR > _______________________________________________ > Elecraft mailing list > Post to: [hidden email] > You must be a subscriber to post to the list. > Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): > http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft > > Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm > Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com > _______________________________________________ Elecraft mailing list Post to: [hidden email] You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com |
In reply to this post by k6dgw
Addition -- I had the battery vendor wrong - batteryspace.com not
batteryspot -- usual disclaimer, not connected to them in any way, just reasonably satisified with their product. They have a bunch of different battery/charger combo's. W0EB Another's experience. I haven't tried the LiPoly batteries yet, but I did find a fairly decent bargain on NiMH batteries & charger at one place. They are made in China, but the quality seems okay. Got 20 (count 'em) 20 2300 MaH AA batteries and a charger that holds 10 at a time for about 50 bucks. The charger is unique in that it works off a 12 volt wall wart @ 800 ma, and the charger contains microprocessor controllers for each slot so it will charge the cells in multiples of one. That's right you can charge 1 or 2 or 3 or any number up to 10 at a time, and the negative contact is spring loaded with a lot of travel so it will charge either AA or AAA type batteries, and the charge controller is smart enough (according to the very sketchy book) to handle either type and either NiCD or NiMH batteries. Each slot has an LED indicator that is red when charging and goes green when the cell is fully charged. I bought a flat 10 AA cell pack from Mouser for a couple of bucks and added a coax power plug on a short lead to it. Gives me 12 volts @ 2.3AH in a reasonably light package, not to mention it was pretty cheap as these things go. I think the name of the place I got the batteries/charger was batteryspot.com or some such. I don't remember, for sure. The verdict is still out on battery/charge life, but I'll report any further positive/negative info when it happens here. Jim - W0EB KX1 #1268 > -----Original Message----- > From: [hidden email] > [mailto:[hidden email]] On Behalf Of Fred Jensen > Sent: Saturday, November 26, 2005 9:06 PM > To: Elecraft Reflector > Subject: Re: [Elecraft] KX1 on AAAs or Lithium Polymer? > > > One Ham's Experience: Good News: The LiPoly I got (local RC hobby > shop) was just great! I did not deplete it on our cruise thru the > Panama Canal, maybe 6 hours operating time (mostly listening and no > CQ's), but I did rag chew a bit with a number of SA stns. > Ran a Spartan > Sprint after return without recharging just to see if I > could. Voltage > stayed nearly constant until full discharge, at which point > it dropped > quickly. As quickly, I recharged it on a MAHA 77. > > Bad News: It worked again very well in the next Spartan. Then I got > busy, and didn't check it for perhaps 5 months. At N6A > (Alpine County, > CQP), I tried it our before the contest, and it was toast. They are > extremely light (a factor in Spartan, but I wonder in a back > pack), they > seem good, but they are expensive, and I've heard they die in > a year or > so, regardless of how you use them. > > WAYNE: To your basic questions -- I wouldn't spend much (or > any) time > adapting the KX1 to LiPo. Mine came with tinned leads on > which I put a > coax plug. The expense is a real downer. The difference in power > between 6 and 8 AA NiMH's seems minimal. Yes, Alkaline dry cells do > have a non-flat discharge curve, but you can get an bunch of them at > Costco or Sam's and they're what I generally use. I think > the weight of > the additional batteries is overshadowed by the weight of the solar > panel and regulator for those who really do back-pack (I did > but I don't > anymore -- too old). > > I know you have to keep up with technology and the ever-increasing > demand for "one more feature," but I would caution against messing > around with a success, which my KX1 is right now. Besides, we're > "amateurs," and you have to leave us something to mess around with! > > 73, > > Fred K6DGW > Auburn CA CM98lw > > > wayne burdick wrote: > > We've located a 4-AAA cell battery holder that would fit inside the > > KX1 > > (one at each end of the bottom cover, as with the present > AA holders). 8 > > cells would provide 10 or 12 volts, giving you > significantly more power > > output than 6 of the same cells (as much as 4 watts). The > tradeoff would > > be in battery life. AAA-size NiMH, alkaline and lithium > cells provide > > around 1000 to 1250 mA-hours, or around half as much as similar > > high-capacity AA cells. > > > > Another option would be to use a small lithium polymer battery. 11 > > volts > > at up to 1450 mA-hours or so might be possible, although > these batteries > > are very expensive. AAAs might be preferable in a pinch > because you can > > buy them anywhere. In the field, you can borrow triple-As from > > flashlights or other portable electronic devices. The difference in > > weight between 8 triple As and a LiPo battery is probably > only couple of > > ounces, so weight is not likely to be the primary criteria. > > > > You'd probably get five to eight hours of casual operation > with NiMH, > > LiPo, or lithium cells, which are preferable to alkalines > because of > > their flat discharge curve. Of course you could recharge > NiMH or LiPo > > cells in the field with a small solar panel. (Has anyone > tried using 8 > > AAA cells with the KX1?) > > > > We could (in theory) create a new bottom cover option for > the KX1 that > > would include two 4-cell AAA holders or a LiPo battery, > plus a charge > > controller that would run from the KX1's DC input jack. The battery > > holders and charge controller components could be soldered > to a thin PCB > > module that runs the full length of the bottom cover. In > the case of > > AAAs, we'd include a switch to select rechargeable or > non-rechargeable > > batteries. You might be able to recharge while operating, > although this > > would have to be tested, since some charge controller generate > > significant noise. > > > > Any input on such a product would be appreciated. If there were > > significant interest, we'd try to have it ready early next year. > > > > 73, > > Wayne > > N6KR > _______________________________________________ > Elecraft mailing list > Post to: [hidden email] > You must be a subscriber to post to the list. > Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): > http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft > > Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm > Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com > _______________________________________________ Elecraft mailing list Post to: [hidden email] You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. 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In reply to this post by wayne burdick
Lithium Polymer and Lithium Ion batteries are used in many millions of
cellphones, cameras, PDAs, laptops, etc., etc. every day. These batteries MUST NOT be OVERCHARGED or OVERDISCHARGED. The proper charger will solve this problem, and protection circuits also can even prevent overdischarge by disconnecting the load. These circuits are common in industry with these batteries. Laptop, PDA, camera and cellphone batteries last a lot more than one year, as an example. Life expectancy is more like 3 years or better. It depends on many factors including the number of charge/discharge cycles. Lithium chemistry batteries have very low self-discharge. If disconnected from any loads they typically maintain most of their charge over many years. For this reason they are far superior to other rechargeable technologies when it comes to 'readiness' after sitting in storage. They can also be maintained in standby charging mode, which often tends to kill other battery technologies. I put a set of LiPo batteries into my K2 over a year ago and they are still charged and operating even though I've ignored them for almost a year. I have not used them a great deal, but they do hold their charge very well if disconnected. I always make sure I turn off the battery disconnect switch at the rear of the K2 when shutting it down. Details of my installation follow at the link below. http://www.qsl.net/wb6zqz/k2/lipo_batteries.html One day I had a discussion with Wayne (of Elecraft) regarding LiPo batteries, and I don't expect to see anything like that from Elecraft anytime soon. The safest way to deal with Lithium Polymer batteries is to have a protection circuit packaged with the battery pack. This circuit prevents over and undercharging. These circuits are commercially available. They use low-loss FETs rather than diodes. Make sure they allow the high current drain required for your application. -- Alan wb6zqz At 07:06 PM 11/26/2005, Fred Jensen wrote: >One Ham's Experience: Good News: The LiPoly I got (local RC hobby shop) >was just great! I did not deplete it on our cruise thru the Panama Canal, >maybe 6 hours operating time (mostly listening and no CQ's), but I did rag >chew a bit with a number of SA stns. Ran a Spartan Sprint after return >without recharging just to see if I could. Voltage stayed nearly constant >until full discharge, at which point it dropped quickly. As quickly, I >recharged it on a MAHA 77. > >Bad News: It worked again very well in the next Spartan. Then I got busy, >and didn't check it for perhaps 5 months. At N6A (Alpine County, CQP), I >tried it our before the contest, and it was toast. They are extremely >light (a factor in Spartan, but I wonder in a back pack), they seem good, >but they are expensive, and I've heard they die in a year or so, >regardless of how you use them. > >WAYNE: To your basic questions -- I wouldn't spend much (or any) time >adapting the KX1 to LiPo. Mine came with tinned leads on which I put a >coax plug. The expense is a real downer. The difference in power between >6 and 8 AA NiMH's seems minimal. Yes, Alkaline dry cells do have a >non-flat discharge curve, but you can get an bunch of them at Costco or >Sam's and they're what I generally use. I think the weight of the >additional batteries is overshadowed by the weight of the solar panel and >regulator for those who really do back-pack (I did but I don't anymore -- >too old). _______________________________________________ Elecraft mailing list Post to: [hidden email] You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com |
In reply to this post by wayne burdick
My experiences are with K1, not KX1 but may generalize if I can manage to keep the form factor in mind. Also I use 18650 Li-Ion cells but use figures for 14500 cells below, as 18650s are too big for this application. As others have mentioned, these cells require a specialized charge-discharge regime. For that reason I don't put Li-Ion cells inside radios, but I might if Wayne designed the charge controller. :) For the KX-1, 14500 series (AA-size) cylindrical Li-Ion cells should work nicely in 3S2P configuration with a protection IC/PCB for each of the two AA-size 3-packs to prevent overcharge/overdischarge and non-uniform charge distribution across cells. (As others have mentioned, the latter is a problem with Li-Ion cells that can lead to catastrophic failure). 3S2P configuration gives 11.1 volt nominal at 1500 mAh. Peak voltage is 12.3-12.6 volts depending on how they're charged, and it stays above 11.1 volts for a good long time ... 3 hours, say, with casual operating. The IC/PCB sheds the load when per-cell voltage drops to 2V, insuring long life and long-term rechargeability. Weight is around 4.8 oz and the new pack wouldn't require more and hence smaller cells (e.g. AAA-size) than the original design, presumably reducing the cost of a redesign. Cost is about 1/2 of equivalent Li-poly. Li-poly saves a little over 2 oz in weight, but some of the saving will be offset by the need for additional packaging to protect the fragile poly flat-pack. I fuse my pack at 2A and keep it in a plastic project box with a panel-mount PowerPole connector. I get this stuff from batteryspace.com - usual disclaimer applies. 73 Ken K3VV _______________________________________________ Elecraft mailing list Post to: [hidden email] You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com |
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