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Yes, a 2m amp from Electraft would be desireable.
73, Brian KD0HII -----Original Message----- From: Elecraft [mailto:[hidden email]] On Behalf Of Phil Hystad Sent: Monday, September 21, 2015 16:58 To: Elecraft Reflector Subject: [Elecraft] KX3 (or, K3) 2-meter solid-state amplifier I am curious — how much interest is there in a 2-meter, solid-state, amplifier from Elecraft that could be used with either the KX3 or the K3. I own a KX3 with the 2-meter option and I have considered buying a 2-meter amplifier in the 35 to 90 watt power range (or, something close to that). But, I would rather have an Elecraft product. Do others feel the same way or am I wanting too much? 73, phil, K7PEH ______________________________________________________________ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:[hidden email] This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html Message delivered to [hidden email] ______________________________________________________________ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:[hidden email] This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html Message delivered to [hidden email] |
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My feeling is that unless an acceptable design or product could be re-branded, the total sales potential would never justify the engineering effort.
Just ask yourself, of all the K3's and K3S' sold, how many have the internal 2M option installed. Of that percentage, how many need an outboard amp. From THAT percentage, how many either already have one * or how many will buy a "pre-owned" amp? I'd bet the answer is "Not a lot". (Guessing under a hundred.) 73, Charlie k3ICH * My TE Systems amp yields about 400 watts out driven by the internal 2M board in my K3S -----Original Message----- From: Elecraft [mailto:[hidden email]] On Behalf Of Brian Linn Sent: Tuesday, September 22, 2015 7:27 AM To: 'Elecraft Reflector' <[hidden email]> Subject: Re: [Elecraft] KX3 (or, K3) 2-meter solid-state amplifier Yes, a 2m amp from Electraft would be desireable. 73, Brian KD0HII ______________________________________________________________ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:[hidden email] This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html Message delivered to [hidden email] |
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If the option had 50w I'd have it on my list to install. At 10w I'm not
confident it would be a good value. -----Original Message----- From: Elecraft [mailto:[hidden email]] On Behalf Of Charlie T, K3ICH Sent: Tuesday, September 22, 2015 8:07 AM To: [hidden email] Subject: Re: [Elecraft] KX3 (or, K3) 2-meter solid-state amplifier My feeling is that unless an acceptable design or product could be re-branded, the total sales potential would never justify the engineering effort. Just ask yourself, of all the K3's and K3S' sold, how many have the internal 2M option installed. Of that percentage, how many need an outboard amp. From THAT percentage, how many either already have one * or how many will buy a "pre-owned" amp? I'd bet the answer is "Not a lot". (Guessing under a hundred.) 73, Charlie k3ICH * My TE Systems amp yields about 400 watts out driven by the internal 2M board in my K3S -----Original Message----- From: Elecraft [mailto:[hidden email]] On Behalf Of Brian Linn Sent: Tuesday, September 22, 2015 7:27 AM To: 'Elecraft Reflector' <[hidden email]> Subject: Re: [Elecraft] KX3 (or, K3) 2-meter solid-state amplifier Yes, a 2m amp from Electraft would be desireable. 73, Brian KD0HII ______________________________________________________________ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:[hidden email] This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html Message delivered to [hidden email] ______________________________________________________________ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:[hidden email] This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html Message delivered to [hidden email] |
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My experience on VHF is 10 to 20 watts and a 10 ele yagi is OK for most
CW and SSB work when good tropo conditions exist. However, more antenna in the air will help on both receive and transmit and be to more advantage to all as opposed to 100 to 200 watts alone. 73 Bob, K4TAX K3S s/n 10,163 ______________________________________________________________ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:[hidden email] This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html Message delivered to [hidden email] |
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I'm eventually wanting to play with Sats so I'll need a full duplex 2m/70cm
anyway. -----Original Message----- From: Elecraft [mailto:[hidden email]] On Behalf Of Bob McGraw - K4TAX Sent: Tuesday, September 22, 2015 9:40 AM To: [hidden email] Subject: Re: [Elecraft] KX3 (or, K3) 2-meter solid-state amplifier My experience on VHF is 10 to 20 watts and a 10 ele yagi is OK for most CW and SSB work when good tropo conditions exist. However, more antenna in the air will help on both receive and transmit and be to more advantage to all as opposed to 100 to 200 watts alone. 73 Bob, K4TAX K3S s/n 10,163 ______________________________________________________________ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:[hidden email] This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html Message delivered to [hidden email] ______________________________________________________________ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:[hidden email] This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html Message delivered to [hidden email] |
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In reply to this post by ny9h@arrl.net
Try this: Chris at the Metalwerks. You can reach him anytime at
801-231-2658 or by email Chris at KF7P dot com. I have used him for
a number of projects and can vouch for the quality of workmanship
and timeliness of delivery. He probably still has the set of
drawings that I sent him for the enclosure.
73 Palmer W7NMD Ozark Precision TIG Mountain Home, Ar On 9/21/2015 10:34 PM, Ny9h@comcastNet
[via Elecraft] wrote:
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In reply to this post by ny9h@arrl.net
Try this: Chris at the Metalwerks. You can reach him anytime at 801-231-2658 or by email Chris at KF7P dot com. I have used him for a number of projects and can vouch for the quality of workmanship and timeliness of delivery. He probably still has the set of drawings that I sent him for the enclosure. 73 Palmer W7NMD Ozark Precision TIG Mountain Home, Ar On 9/21/2015 10:34 PM, Ny9h@comcastNet
[via Elecraft] wrote:
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In reply to this post by Bob McGraw - K4TAX
On Tue,9/22/2015 6:39 AM, Bob McGraw - K4TAX wrote:
> My experience on VHF is 10 to 20 watts and a 10 ele yagi is OK for > most CW and SSB work when good tropo conditions exist. Your experience would be quite different west of the Mississippi, where population density is much less, and with much greater distances between population centers. That's why, for example, the FCC licenses 10 dB greater TX power west of the MS river. Higher TX power also helps for moonbounce and meteor scatter. 73, Jim K9YC ______________________________________________________________ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:[hidden email] This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html Message delivered to [hidden email] |
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Yes well, as to EME and MS, my viewpoint is anything less than legal
limit is considered QRP. Which brings a point to mind. I get really annoyed with stations adding a power amp and doing nothing to improve their receiving situation. Seems hams like to have folks brag on their big signal when their receiving conditions are as deaf as an anvil. 73 Bob, K4TAX K3S s/n 10,163 ______________________________________________________________ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:[hidden email] This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html Message delivered to [hidden email] |
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In reply to this post by Jim Brown-10
Are you saying I can run 15 KW PEP in West Memphis AR which is west of
the MS river and only 1.5 KW in Memphis, TN which is east of the MS river? 73 Bob, K4TAX K3S s/n 10,163 That's why, for example, the FCC licenses 10 dB greater TX power west of the MS river. Higher TX power also helps for moonbounce and meteor scatter. ______________________________________________________________ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:[hidden email] This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html Message delivered to [hidden email] |
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In reply to this post by Phil Hystad-3
Crafting a case very similar to the one pictured on the sited page is relatively easy. While I do have a brake and no problem crafting cases I will tell you how I would do it without major tools. 1. Do a drawing of the case with sizes and flanges laid out piece by piece; top, bottom, sides, ends, etc. 2. Locate the nearest Metal Supermarket. I use them as they are close and reasonable and I know them and their stock. They will cut your metal pieces to size very cheaply. Often free. 3. Contact them for a quote and order. They may mail your order, I do not know. There are other places who do the same type business; small orders with cutting. 4. Cut 2 hardwood blocks that just fits inside the lines of the front and rear panels. They should be smaller by the thickness of the metal material plus a smidgeon. 5. Carefully fit the blocks within the lines of the panel you are bending and clamp in a vice. The blocks should be aligned as well as with in the panel lines; Use double sided tape if necessary. 6. Use another hardwood block as a "push block" and gently push and hammer against the flange all along its length until it is bent 90 deg. bending only a small part of the angle at a time. 7. The blocks are also useful when drilling the holes. Some may prefer to drill first but that makes hole alignment very difficult. PJH, N7PXY ______________________________________________________________ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:[hidden email] This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html Message delivered to [hidden email] |
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In reply to this post by Bob McGraw - K4TAX
On Tue,9/22/2015 10:45 AM, Bob McGraw - K4TAX wrote:
> Are you saying I can run 15 KW PEP in West Memphis AR which is west of > the MS river and only 1.5 KW in Memphis, TN which is east of the MS > river? Sorry -- I was referencing FM broadcast and TV, and failed to say so. 73, Jim K9YC ______________________________________________________________ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:[hidden email] This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html Message delivered to [hidden email] |
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In reply to this post by cheng076
______________________________________________________________ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:[hidden email] This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html Message delivered to [hidden email] |
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In reply to this post by cheng076
I built that W6PQL 80 watt amp last year. Built the aluminum chassis, too. I did not have a sheet metal brake, but a few minutes on Google turned up quite a few home-brew brake plans. I built one of them and used it to form the chassis for my amp, and later on a couple other small boxes for shack utility projects. If you enjoy building stuff, creating your own brake is worth the effort. I think I made mine for less than $25. And it works pretty darn well!
Jim / W6JHB > On Tuesday, Sep 22, 2015, at Tuesday, 10:47 AM, P.J.Hicks <[hidden email]> wrote: > > > > Crafting a case very similar to the one pictured on the sited page is relatively easy. While I do have a brake and no problem crafting cases I will tell you how I would do it without major tools. > > 1. Do a drawing of the case with sizes and flanges laid out piece by piece; top, bottom, sides, ends, etc. > > 2. Locate the nearest Metal Supermarket. I use them as they are close and reasonable and I know them and their stock. They will cut your metal pieces to size very cheaply. Often free. > > 3. Contact them for a quote and order. They may mail your order, I do not know. There are other places who do the same type business; small orders with cutting. > > 4. Cut 2 hardwood blocks that just fits inside the lines of the front and rear panels. They should be smaller by the thickness of the metal material plus a smidgeon. > > 5. Carefully fit the blocks within the lines of the panel you are bending and clamp in a vice. The blocks should be aligned as well as with in the panel lines; Use double sided tape if necessary. > > 6. Use another hardwood block as a "push block" and gently push and hammer against the flange all along its length until it is bent 90 deg. bending only a small part of the angle at a time. > > 7. The blocks are also useful when drilling the holes. Some may prefer to drill first but that makes hole alignment very difficult. > > PJH, N7PXY > ______________________________________________________________ > Elecraft mailing list > Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft > Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm > Post: mailto:[hidden email] > > This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net > Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html > Message delivered to [hidden email] ______________________________________________________________ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:[hidden email] This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html Message delivered to [hidden email] |
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A REAL ham speaks!! One of the few!!
Congrats on your accomplishments Jim. 73, Tom - W4BQF -----Original Message----- From: Elecraft [mailto:[hidden email]] On Behalf Of James Bennett Sent: Tuesday, September 22, 2015 2:23 PM To: Elecraft Reflector Reflector Subject: Re: [Elecraft] KX3 (or, K3) 2-meter solid-state amplifier I built that W6PQL 80 watt amp last year. Built the aluminum chassis, too. I did not have a sheet metal brake, but a few minutes on Google turned up quite a few home-brew brake plans. I built one of them and used it to form the chassis for my amp, and later on a couple other small boxes for shack utility projects. If you enjoy building stuff, creating your own brake is worth the effort. I think I made mine for less than $25. And it works pretty darn well! Jim / W6JHB ______________________________________________________________ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:[hidden email] This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html Message delivered to [hidden email] |
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In reply to this post by James Bennett
Harbor Freight sells an 18” sheet metal brake for about forty bucks.
I’ve used a lot of Harbor Freight tools. Some of them require a bit of tweaking to work perfectly, but they’re generally good enough right out of the box. Dale W5OHM > On Sep 22, 2015, at 1:22 PM, James Bennett <[hidden email]> wrote: > > I built that W6PQL 80 watt amp last year. Built the aluminum chassis, too. I did not have a sheet metal brake, but a few minutes on Google turned up quite a few home-brew brake plans. I built one of them and used it to form the chassis for my amp, and later on a couple other small boxes for shack utility projects. If you enjoy building stuff, creating your own brake is worth the effort. I think I made mine for less than $25. And it works pretty darn well! > > Jim / W6JHB > > >> On Tuesday, Sep 22, 2015, at Tuesday, 10:47 AM, P.J.Hicks <[hidden email]> wrote: >> >> >> >> Crafting a case very similar to the one pictured on the sited page is relatively easy. While I do have a brake and no problem crafting cases I will tell you how I would do it without major tools. >> >> 1. Do a drawing of the case with sizes and flanges laid out piece by piece; top, bottom, sides, ends, etc. >> >> 2. Locate the nearest Metal Supermarket. I use them as they are close and reasonable and I know them and their stock. They will cut your metal pieces to size very cheaply. Often free. >> >> 3. Contact them for a quote and order. They may mail your order, I do not know. There are other places who do the same type business; small orders with cutting. >> >> 4. Cut 2 hardwood blocks that just fits inside the lines of the front and rear panels. They should be smaller by the thickness of the metal material plus a smidgeon. >> >> 5. Carefully fit the blocks within the lines of the panel you are bending and clamp in a vice. The blocks should be aligned as well as with in the panel lines; Use double sided tape if necessary. >> >> 6. Use another hardwood block as a "push block" and gently push and hammer against the flange all along its length until it is bent 90 deg. bending only a small part of the angle at a time. >> >> 7. The blocks are also useful when drilling the holes. Some may prefer to drill first but that makes hole alignment very difficult. >> >> PJH, N7PXY >> ______________________________________________________________ >> Elecraft mailing list >> Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft >> Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm >> Post: mailto:[hidden email] >> >> This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net >> Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html >> Message delivered to [hidden email] > > ______________________________________________________________ > Elecraft mailing list > Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft > Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm > Post: mailto:[hidden email] > > This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net > Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html > Message delivered to [hidden email] ______________________________________________________________ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:[hidden email] This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html Message delivered to [hidden email] |
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In reply to this post by Phil Hystad-3
I have analyzed my costs to build single units of the W6PQL 80w 2m
amplifier and the total material costs come to $254. Based on that I have posted information at: http://www.kl7uw.com/kits.htm The amplifier will use a 1.375x5.375x8 inch heat sink with a 120mm fan. Fan will be thermistor controlled. The enclosure chosen is the Hammond 1590D 4.7x7.4 inch diecast aluminum box. It will be available in natural aluminum or painted a light flat gray. A ten-segment LED RF power indicator will be included. Otherwise is as described on the W6PQL website (link from my website). It will be offered as a partial kit (all surface-mount components pre-installed but all thru-hole left to the customer). Price $284.00 + $18 flat-rate shipping & insurance Also available fully assembled and tested for $354 + $18 flat-rate shipping & insurance Optional N female connectors for additional $5.00. All prices in US funds and subject to change without notice and only apply in the USA. I will ship international but shipping will be more. NO ORDERS accepted until November, 2015. E-mail me if you want to be put on a pre-order waiting list. PayPal will be preferred method of payment. These will be built one at a time with my 30-day delivery policy. 90-day warrantee on labor and materials. Input power range 50mw to 10w which must be stated with order. 73, Ed - KL7UW http://www.kl7uw.com "Kits made by KL7UW" Dubus Mag business: [hidden email] ______________________________________________________________ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:[hidden email] This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html Message delivered to [hidden email] |
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In reply to this post by Dale LeDoux
Most metal houses will shear stuff to size for a small pittance. A
desktop drill press for drilling holes, Bob's your uncle....Case parts. Being a semi-retired production and R+D welder, and having a pretty nice Mig/Tig setup just begging to melt some metal, it wouldn't take me long to tig weld an aluminum case. Look Ma! Very few screws! I count four to hold the heat sink in the case, maybe six, and whatever the number is to attach an N style chassis connector. -- R. Kevin Stover AC0H ARRL FISTS #11993 SKCC #215 NAQCC #3441 ______________________________________________________________ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:[hidden email] This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html Message delivered to [hidden email] |
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In reply to this post by Dale LeDoux
And, there is a much better quality sheet metal brake for about $189 from Eastwood (Versa Bend Sheet Metal Brake).
I saw that Harbor Freight one for $39 but I wouldn’t buy it without looking at it (physically touching it) closely. phil, K7PEH > On Sep 22, 2015, at 1:56 PM, Dale LeDoux <[hidden email]> wrote: > > Harbor Freight sells an 18” sheet metal brake for about forty bucks. > > I’ve used a lot of Harbor Freight tools. Some of them require a bit of tweaking to work perfectly, but they’re generally good enough right out of the box. > > Dale > W5OHM > >> On Sep 22, 2015, at 1:22 PM, James Bennett <[hidden email]> wrote: >> >> I built that W6PQL 80 watt amp last year. Built the aluminum chassis, too. I did not have a sheet metal brake, but a few minutes on Google turned up quite a few home-brew brake plans. I built one of them and used it to form the chassis for my amp, and later on a couple other small boxes for shack utility projects. If you enjoy building stuff, creating your own brake is worth the effort. I think I made mine for less than $25. And it works pretty darn well! >> >> Jim / W6JHB >> >> >>> On Tuesday, Sep 22, 2015, at Tuesday, 10:47 AM, P.J.Hicks <[hidden email]> wrote: >>> >>> >>> >>> Crafting a case very similar to the one pictured on the sited page is relatively easy. While I do have a brake and no problem crafting cases I will tell you how I would do it without major tools. >>> >>> 1. Do a drawing of the case with sizes and flanges laid out piece by piece; top, bottom, sides, ends, etc. >>> >>> 2. Locate the nearest Metal Supermarket. I use them as they are close and reasonable and I know them and their stock. They will cut your metal pieces to size very cheaply. Often free. >>> >>> 3. Contact them for a quote and order. They may mail your order, I do not know. There are other places who do the same type business; small orders with cutting. >>> >>> 4. Cut 2 hardwood blocks that just fits inside the lines of the front and rear panels. They should be smaller by the thickness of the metal material plus a smidgeon. >>> >>> 5. Carefully fit the blocks within the lines of the panel you are bending and clamp in a vice. The blocks should be aligned as well as with in the panel lines; Use double sided tape if necessary. >>> >>> 6. Use another hardwood block as a "push block" and gently push and hammer against the flange all along its length until it is bent 90 deg. bending only a small part of the angle at a time. >>> >>> 7. The blocks are also useful when drilling the holes. Some may prefer to drill first but that makes hole alignment very difficult. >>> >>> PJH, N7PXY >>> ______________________________________________________________ >>> Elecraft mailing list >>> Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft >>> Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm >>> Post: mailto:[hidden email] >>> >>> This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net >>> Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html >>> Message delivered to [hidden email] >> >> ______________________________________________________________ >> Elecraft mailing list >> Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft >> Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm >> Post: mailto:[hidden email] >> >> This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net >> Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html >> Message delivered to [hidden email] > > > ______________________________________________________________ > Elecraft mailing list > Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft > Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm > Post: mailto:[hidden email] > > This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net > Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html > Message delivered to [hidden email] ______________________________________________________________ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:[hidden email] This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html Message delivered to [hidden email] |
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Bending sheet metal to make a box ... really ...
If I needed something that looked like the letter "Z" to mount stuff Then maybe. But for a project box there are just too many sizes and variations to Waste my time and money to make a box. Just one mans opinion. 73, Dick, W1KSZ -----Original Message----- From: Elecraft [mailto:[hidden email]] On Behalf Of Phil Hystad Sent: Tuesday, September 22, 2015 5:41 PM To: Dale LeDoux Cc: Elecraft Reflector Reflector Subject: Re: [Elecraft] KX3 (or, K3) 2-meter solid-state amplifier And, there is a much better quality sheet metal brake for about $189 from Eastwood (Versa Bend Sheet Metal Brake). I saw that Harbor Freight one for $39 but I wouldn’t buy it without looking at it (physically touching it) closely. phil, K7PEH > On Sep 22, 2015, at 1:56 PM, Dale LeDoux <[hidden email]> wrote: > > Harbor Freight sells an 18” sheet metal brake for about forty bucks. > > I’ve used a lot of Harbor Freight tools. Some of them require a bit of tweaking to work perfectly, but they’re generally good enough right out of the box. > > Dale > W5OHM > >> On Sep 22, 2015, at 1:22 PM, James Bennett <[hidden email]> wrote: >> >> I built that W6PQL 80 watt amp last year. Built the aluminum chassis, too. I did not have a sheet metal brake, but a few minutes on Google turned up quite a few home-brew brake plans. I built one of them and used it to form the chassis for my amp, and later on a couple other small boxes for shack utility projects. If you enjoy building stuff, creating your own brake is worth the effort. I think I made mine for less than $25. And it works pretty darn well! >> >> Jim / W6JHB >> >> >>> On Tuesday, Sep 22, 2015, at Tuesday, 10:47 AM, P.J.Hicks <[hidden email]> wrote: >>> >>> >>> >>> Crafting a case very similar to the one pictured on the sited page is relatively easy. While I do have a brake and no problem crafting cases I will tell you how I would do it without major tools. >>> >>> 1. Do a drawing of the case with sizes and flanges laid out piece by piece; top, bottom, sides, ends, etc. >>> >>> 2. Locate the nearest Metal Supermarket. I use them as they are close and reasonable and I know them and their stock. They will cut your metal pieces to size very cheaply. Often free. >>> >>> 3. Contact them for a quote and order. They may mail your order, I do not know. There are other places who do the same type business; small orders with cutting. >>> >>> 4. Cut 2 hardwood blocks that just fits inside the lines of the front and rear panels. They should be smaller by the thickness of the metal material plus a smidgeon. >>> >>> 5. Carefully fit the blocks within the lines of the panel you are bending and clamp in a vice. The blocks should be aligned as well as with in the panel lines; Use double sided tape if necessary. >>> >>> 6. Use another hardwood block as a "push block" and gently push and hammer against the flange all along its length until it is bent 90 deg. bending only a small part of the angle at a time. >>> >>> 7. The blocks are also useful when drilling the holes. Some may prefer to drill first but that makes hole alignment very difficult. >>> >>> PJH, N7PXY >>> ______________________________________________________________ >>> Elecraft mailing list >>> Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft >>> Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm >>> Post: mailto:[hidden email] >>> >>> This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this >>> email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html Message delivered to >>> [hidden email] >> >> ______________________________________________________________ >> Elecraft mailing list >> Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft >> Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm >> Post: mailto:[hidden email] >> >> This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this >> email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html Message delivered to >> [hidden email] > > > ______________________________________________________________ > Elecraft mailing list > Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft > Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm > Post: mailto:[hidden email] > > This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email > list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html Message delivered to > [hidden email] ______________________________________________________________ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:[hidden email] This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html Message delivered to [hidden email] ______________________________________________________________ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:[hidden email] This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html Message delivered to [hidden email] |
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