License Exam

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License Exam

SHEAJOHNW
I believe that it is technically possible to be first licensed as an Extra class under the current licensing system by passing all 4 elements at a single volunteer examiner session and having the volunteer examiners submit all the paperwork for the Extra class license to the FCC.  A person never having passed any FCC ham license test cannot take and pass only element 1 (code test) and element 4 (extra test) and receive the Extra license.  Perhaps a volunteer examiner could provide a definative answer.
 
de KB1IKD
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Re: License Exam

Ian Stirling, G4ICV, AB2GR
On Saturday 23 July 2005 02:01, [hidden email] wrote:
> I believe that it is technically possible to be first licensed as an Extra class under the current licensing system by passing all 4 elements at a single volunteer examiner session and having the volunteer examiners submit all the paperwork for the Extra class license to the FCC.  A person never having passed any FCC ham license test cannot take and pass only element 1 (code test) and element 4 (extra test) and receive the Extra license.  Perhaps a volunteer examiner could provide a definative answer.
>  
> de KB1IKD

  As it was in the previous system.
The VEs at my test agreed that there was nothing in the rules
that prohibited me from taking all the papers that evening
in reverse order. I told Marty, the chief VE that I wanted
Extra or nothing because I had all the CW bands operating as
W2/G4ICV. With any FCC licence less than Extra, I would have
been locked out of the bottom 25 kHz of some of the HF bands
because I would no lonfer be allowed to use my reciprocal
licence.  I took 4B, 4A, 3B, 3A, 2 and 1C in that order
getting progressively worse results to the point where I
handed in the novice paper with the words,
"This could be embarrassing". But Marty gave me a thumbs up
and said, "Just the 20 wpm to go, listen to this everyone."
  The point is that you have to have all the elements up to
the class of licence being sought at the time the application
is filed.

Ian, K2 #4962
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Re: License Exam

Larry Makoski W2LJ
In reply to this post by SHEAJOHNW
I've been a VE for over a decade now.  No, you cannot take just the
elements for a particular grade of license and become that license class.

To earn to Technician license you must pass element 2
To earn a Tech + you must pass elements 2 and 1 (5 WPM code)
To earn a General class license you must pass elements 1, 2 and 3
To earn Amateur Extra you must pass elements 1, 2, 3 and 4

If you walk into a VE session without a license; and all you do is take,
and pass, elements 1 and 3 then all you get is a very nice Certificate
of Completion, which is good for 365 days.  At some point within that
year, you must take and pass element 2 to complete the process and earn
your license.  The same goes for all the other classes, accordingly.

Hope this clears the matter up for everyone.


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RE: License Exam

Steven Pituch
Hi Larry,

True except maybe for the tech+.

Now I may be wrong..... but I thought if you pass Element 2 and Element 1,
you get a csce for the Tech license and the csce says you passed the 5 wpm.
The csce for the 5 wpm is good only for a year.  The reason is that the old
Tech+s are grandfathered and their 5 wpm is good for general, but since they
don't issue tech+s anymore you can't keep the 5 wpm credit permanently until
you pass the General written.

Steve, W2MY


-----Original Message-----
From: [hidden email]
[mailto:[hidden email]] On Behalf Of Larry Makoski W2LJ
Sent: Friday, July 22, 2005 9:20 PM
To: [hidden email]
Cc: [hidden email]
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] License Exam

I've been a VE for over a decade now.  No, you cannot take just the elements
for a particular grade of license and become that license class.

To earn to Technician license you must pass element 2 To earn a Tech + you
must pass elements 2 and 1 (5 WPM code) To earn a General class license you
must pass elements 1, 2 and 3 To earn Amateur Extra you must pass elements
1, 2, 3 and 4

If you walk into a VE session without a license; and all you do is take, and
pass, elements 1 and 3 then all you get is a very nice Certificate of
Completion, which is good for 365 days.  At some point within that year, you
must take and pass element 2 to complete the process and earn your license.
The same goes for all the other classes, accordingly.

Hope this clears the matter up for everyone.


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Re: License Exam

Daniel Reynolds-2
In reply to this post by SHEAJOHNW
As an inactive VE (active up to a few years ago), I understand that in order to
be a:

Technician, you must pass the Technician written exam.
General, you must pass all the above and the General exam.
Extra, you must pass all the above, and the Extra (and 5 wpm exam).

Having a license or a CSCE (Certificate of Successful Completion of Exam) is
all the proof you need that you passed an exam [CSCE's are only good for 1
year, after which, you must retest]. A CSCE won't be good for much if they dump
the CW requirement, because often times a CSCE would be filled out if a person
passed one of two elements required for a license (e.g. in the not so distant
past, a Novice had to pass the 5 WPM code and Novice written exam - pass one
and fail the other, and you would take home a CSCE until you could later pass
the other required element). It's been a long time, but I believe any one who
passes an exam receives a CSCE just in case their paperwork gets lost in the
system. They can hang onto the CSCE until their license arrives in the mail (or
is registered in the FCC's database).

A VE testing session usually started with the lowest numbered elements (2 -
Novice, 3a- Tech, 3b- General, 4a- Advanced, 4b- Extra) along with a separate
testing area for the morse code elements (1a - 5 wpm, 1b - 13 wpm, 1c - 20
wpm).

If you were unlicensed, and managed to pass the following exams, in order, 2,
3a, 3b, 4a, 4b, 1c - then you could have walked out of that testing session
with the expectation of soon receiving the Extra Class license in the mail a
few weeks later. Nothing requires you to be licensed before you take the Extra
exam - however, I believe the VE's may require you to have passed the exams
that preceed the Extra exam before they will allow you to take the Extra exam.

My statements may, or may not, reflect the current state of VE testing exams in
the U.S., and they may, or may not, reflect your experience with testing exams
- and they are just a faint memory for me.

73,
Daniel AA0NI
--- [hidden email] wrote:

> I believe that it is technically possible to be first licensed as an Extra
> class under the current licensing system by passing all 4 elements at a
> single volunteer examiner session and having the volunteer examiners submit
> all the paperwork for the Extra class license to the FCC.  A person never
> having passed any FCC ham license test cannot take and pass only element 1
> (code test) and element 4 (extra test) and receive the Extra license.
> Perhaps a volunteer examiner could provide a definative answer.
>  
> de KB1IKD
> _______________________________________________
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> Post to: [hidden email]
> You must be a subscriber to post to the list.
> Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.):
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>
> Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm
> Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
>

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Cutting Traces

Steven Pituch
Hi all,
This is just a helpful tip for those who might need to debug an Elecraft
product.

I needed to isolate some items on my KPA100 that used the 5V line.  If I cut
a couple of traces it would be very easy to do the trouble shooting.  What I
was afraid of was that the trace repairs would be unsightly.  For the first
cut I made sure that I choose the narrowest section of the trace thinking I
would do the least amount of damage.  However, I was wrong.  Because the
trace was so thin I could not get the solder to bridge the slit in the
trace.  By the way, the cuts I made were with a straight edge razor which
were very thin.  So I had to use the nice green insulated hook up wire
contained in one of the Elecraft kits and bridge the two solder lands
nearest either side of the cut.

The next cut I made was in a much thicker section of another trace.  This
time the width was about equal to the width of a solder land for the typical
IC socket pin.  When it was time to repair the trace I gently scratched away
the green coating on the trace on either side of the cut for a width about
equal to a solder land for an IC socket pin.  When I added the solder it
bridged the cut very nicely.  In fact the repair looks just like the IC
socket pin land after it is soldered. Very neat and hardly noticeable.

So in summary, if you are going to cut a trace for diagnostic purposes and
intend to repair it later on, make sure you choose a part of the trace that
is wide enough to allow you to bridge some solder over the gap when you do
the repair.  The results will not even be noticeable.  Conversely, repairing
narrow traces are difficult to impossible, at the best unsightly, and will
require a wire jumper repair to bypass the trace.

72,
Steve, W2MY

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RE: Cutting Traces

Don Wilhelm-3
Steve,

That method works, but beware that if the board flexes, the solder only
repair will have a tendency to fracture (solder is not as ductile as the
copper traces).  I highly recommend scraping off a small bit of the green
solder mask stuff at the cut location and lay a strand or two of bare wire
across the cut - solder the wire in place and you have a permanent repair.
And it doesn't look unsightly at all IMHO, YMMV.

73,
Don W3FPR

> -----Original Message-----
>
> Hi all,
> This is just a helpful tip for those who might need to debug an Elecraft
> product.
>
> I needed to isolate some items on my KPA100 that used the 5V
> line.  If I cut
> a couple of traces it would be very easy to do the trouble
> shooting.  What I
> was afraid of was that the trace repairs would be unsightly.  For
> the first
> cut I made sure that I choose the narrowest section of the trace
> thinking I
> would do the least amount of damage.  However, I was wrong.  Because the
> trace was so thin I could not get the solder to bridge the slit in the
> trace.  By the way, the cuts I made were with a straight edge razor which
> were very thin.  So I had to use the nice green insulated hook up wire
> contained in one of the Elecraft kits and bridge the two solder lands
> nearest either side of the cut.
>
> The next cut I made was in a much thicker section of another trace.  This
> time the width was about equal to the width of a solder land for
> the typical
> IC socket pin.  When it was time to repair the trace I gently
> scratched away
> the green coating on the trace on either side of the cut for a width about
> equal to a solder land for an IC socket pin.  When I added the solder it
> bridged the cut very nicely.  In fact the repair looks just like the IC
> socket pin land after it is soldered. Very neat and hardly noticeable.
>
> So in summary, if you are going to cut a trace for diagnostic purposes and
> intend to repair it later on, make sure you choose a part of the
> trace that
> is wide enough to allow you to bridge some solder over the gap when you do
> the repair.  The results will not even be noticeable.
> Conversely, repairing
> narrow traces are difficult to impossible, at the best unsightly, and will
> require a wire jumper repair to bypass the trace.
>
>
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Checked by AVG Anti-Virus.
Version: 7.0.338 / Virus Database: 267.9.4/57 - Release Date: 7/22/2005

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Re: Cutting Traces

Stewart Baker
In reply to this post by Steven Pituch
Steve,

A very useful tip.

I purchased a small reel of tinned copper wire about 22SWG (don't know the AWG)
and use that when bridging across cut tracks etc.

73
Stewart G3RXQ

On Sat, 23 Jul 2005 14:01:25 -0500, Steven Pituch wrote:

> Hi all,
>
> This is just a helpful tip for those who might need to debug an Elecraft
> product.
>
> I needed to isolate some items on my KPA100 that used the 5V line.  If I cut
> a couple of traces it would be very easy to do the trouble shooting.  What I
> was afraid of was that the trace repairs would be unsightly.  For the first
> cut I made sure that I choose the narrowest section of the trace thinking I
> would do the least amount of damage.  However, I was wrong.  Because the
> trace was so thin I could not get the solder to bridge the slit in the
> trace.  By the way, the cuts I made were with a straight edge razor which
> were very thin.  So I had to use the nice green insulated hook up wire
> contained in one of the Elecraft kits and bridge the two solder lands
> nearest either side of the cut.
>
> The next cut I made was in a much thicker section of another trace.  This
> time the width was about equal to the width of a solder land for the typical
> IC socket pin.  When it was time to repair the trace I gently scratched away
> the green coating on the trace on either side of the cut for a width about
> equal to a solder land for an IC socket pin.  When I added the solder it
> bridged the cut very nicely.  In fact the repair looks just like the IC
> socket pin land after it is soldered. Very neat and hardly noticeable.
>
> So in summary, if you are going to cut a trace for diagnostic purposes and
> intend to repair it later on, make sure you choose a part of the trace that
> is wide enough to allow you to bridge some solder over the gap when you do
> the repair.  The results will not even be noticeable.  Conversely, repairing
> narrow traces are difficult to impossible, at the best unsightly, and will
> require a wire jumper repair to bypass the trace.
>
> 72,
> Steve, W2MY



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