Locktite

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Locktite

Dave KD1NA
One of the members of this e=mail forum made the following statment:


"If the radio is going to be used in a high vibration environment, like a
car, sealing the screws with Loctite might be a good idea."

Although he is correct, you must be very careful on which type of Locktite
you use. Locktite comes in colors and you want to stay away from the red
color Locktite as it is perment. Using it will make it very difficult, if
not impossible to remove.

73
Dave KD1na
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Re: Locktite

Elecraft mailing list
Purple is Low
Blue is medium (I use this one mostly)
Red is High (Permanent) heat it with a torch to remove

      From: David Robertson <[hidden email]>
 To: Elecraft <[hidden email]>
 Sent: Thursday, June 18, 2015 8:59 AM
 Subject: [Elecraft] Locktite
   
One of the members of this e=mail forum made the following statment:


"If the radio is going to be used in a high vibration environment, like a
car, sealing the screws with Loctite might be a good idea."

Although he is correct, you must be very careful on which type of Locktite
you use. Locktite comes in colors and you want to stay away from the red
color Locktite as it is perment. Using it will make it very difficult, if
not impossible to remove.

73
Dave KD1na
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Re: Loctite

Dennis Griffin-2
In reply to this post by Dave KD1NA
A small drop of Loctite® 222, which is purple in color, would be appropriate for these small screws in this application. However, I don’t consider most cars to be a high vibration environment. If one were to regularly drive on cobblestone or washboard surfaces, then a thread locker might be warranted, but that would be more of a low frequency vibration, very unlike a high frequency vibration, such as might be generated by a high RPM 4 cylinder motorcycle engine.

Even though the screws may be of a stainless steel material, there is still a slight potential for galvanic corrosion. I’d think that use of a heavy bodied anti-seize compound on these screws would be all the “thread locker” most OM’s would need.

73 de Dennis KD7CAC
Scottsdale, AZ

> On Jun 18, 2015, at 5:59 AM, David Robertson <[hidden email] <mailto:[hidden email]>> wrote:
>
> One of the members of this e=mail forum made the following statment:
>
>
> "If the radio is going to be used in a high vibration environment, like a
> car, sealing the screws with Loctite might be a good idea."
>
> Although he is correct, you must be very careful on which type of Locktite
> you use. Locktite comes in colors and you want to stay away from the red
> color Locktite as it is perment. Using it will make it very difficult, if
> not impossible to remove.
>
> 73
> Dave KD1na
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Re: Locktite

Dennis Griffin-2
In reply to this post by Elecraft mailing list
> On Jun 18, 2015, at 6:12 AM, Harry Yingst via Elecraft <[hidden email] <mailto:[hidden email]>> wrote:
>
> Purple is Low

and is intended for fasteners 1/4” dia. and below (Loctite® 222)

> Blue is medium (I use this one mostly)

and is intended for fasteners in the 1/4 - 3/4” dia. range (Loctite® 242)

> Red is High (Permanent) heat it with a torch to remove

or a good heat gun (Loctite® 262)


72 de Dennis KD7CAC
>
>      From: David Robertson <[hidden email] <mailto:[hidden email]>>
> To: Elecraft <[hidden email] <mailto:[hidden email]>>
> Sent: Thursday, June 18, 2015 8:59 AM
> Subject: [Elecraft] Locktite
>
> One of the members of this e=mail forum made the following statment:
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Re: Loctite

Elecraft mailing list
In reply to this post by Dennis Griffin-2
On this subject I would tend to believe some of it's due to thermal expansion and contraction


      From: Dennis Griffin <[hidden email]>
 To: "[hidden email] Mailer" <[hidden email]>
 Sent: Thursday, June 18, 2015 9:24 AM
 Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Loctite
   
A small drop of Loctite® 222, which is purple in color, would be appropriate for these small screws in this application. However, I don’t consider most cars to be a high vibration environment. If one were to regularly drive on cobblestone or washboard surfaces, then a thread locker might be warranted, but that would be more of a low frequency vibration, very unlike a high frequency vibration, such as might be generated by a high RPM 4 cylinder motorcycle engine.

Even though the screws may be of a stainless steel material, there is still a slight potential for galvanic corrosion. I’d think that use of a heavy bodied anti-seize compound on these screws would be all the “thread locker” most OM’s would need.

73 de Dennis KD7CAC
Scottsdale, AZ



> On Jun 18, 2015, at 5:59 AM, David Robertson <[hidden email] <mailto:[hidden email]>> wrote:
>
> One of the members of this e=mail forum made the following statment:
>
>
> "If the radio is going to be used in a high vibration environment, like a
> car, sealing the screws with Loctite might be a good idea."
>
> Although he is correct, you must be very careful on which type of Locktite
> you use. Locktite comes in colors and you want to stay away from the red
> color Locktite as it is perment. Using it will make it very difficult, if
> not impossible to remove.
>
> 73
> Dave KD1na
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Re: Loctite

Don Wilhelm-4
In reply to this post by Dennis Griffin-2
Mainly for kit builders --
Because the screws are stainless steel but are threaded into aluminum,
there is a small chance of a slight galling of the threads, making it
impossible to fully tighten the screw.  A bit of light oil the first
time a screw is inserted would my choice rather than a thread locking
compound.  If the oil drips, you have too much on - wipe the threads
with a cloth, there will be enough remaining to do the job.

The black screws are *supposed* to be an aid in tightening, but a little
bit of extra gives that last bit of assurance.

I will repeat my caution to use a good #1 Phillips screwdriver to keep
from rounding out the screw heads.  If you can see shiny spots on the
screwdriver tip, replace it with a new one.

73,
Don W3FPR

On 6/18/2015 9:24 AM, Dennis Griffin wrote:
>
> Even though the screws may be of a stainless steel material, there is still a slight potential for galvanic corrosion. I’d think that use of a heavy bodied anti-seize compound on these screws would be all the “thread locker” most OM’s would need.
>
>

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Re: Loctite

N5GE
On Thu, 18 Jun 2015 10:05:56 -0400, you wrote:

>I will repeat my caution to use a good #1 Phillips screwdriver to keep
>from rounding out the screw heads.  If you can see shiny spots on the
>screwdriver tip, replace it with a new one.

And make sure you are not using a Reed and Prince screw driver.  A
Reed and Prince screw driver has has a sharp point on the business end
which will keep it from seating properly in the head of a Phillips
screw, which will usually ruine the screw head by stripping the head,
making it very hard to remove.

Amateur Radio Operator
N5GE

>
>73,
>Don W3FPR
>
>On 6/18/2015 9:24 AM, Dennis Griffin wrote:
>>
>> Even though the screws may be of a stainless steel material, there is still a slight potential for galvanic corrosion. I’d think that use of a heavy bodied anti-seize compound on these screws would be all the “thread locker” most OM’s would need.
>>
>>
>
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>
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Amateur Radio Operator N5GE
HP
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Re: Loctite

HP
In reply to this post by Don Wilhelm-4
One more point about "loose" screws or nuts  and Loctite.  Any place the
hardware is going thru a PC board (or any material that will cold flow at
the pressures we get) , after a period of time there will be some "cold
flow" of the board and Loctite will not fix that. Hopefully the split lock
washers will minimize the effect  .  I had two  transceivers from another
American manufacturer even with split locks and the tx ALC  would get
unstable about once a year or two and just tightening all the grounding
screws around the boards  would tame it down for another year. I suspect if
I kept them for long enough the clod flow would finally stop.

Hank K7HP


From: Don Wilhelm
Sent: Thursday, June 18, 2015 7:05 AM
To: [hidden email]
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Loctite

Mainly for kit builders --
Because the screws are stainless steel but are threaded into aluminum,
there is a small chance of a slight galling of the threads, making it
impossible to fully tighten the screw.  A bit of light oil the first
time a screw is inserted would my choice rather than a thread locking
compound.  If the oil drips, you have too much on - wipe the threads
with a cloth, there will be enough remaining to do the job.

The black screws are *supposed* to be an aid in tightening, but a little
bit of extra gives that last bit of assurance.

I will repeat my caution to use a good #1 Phillips screwdriver to keep
from rounding out the screw heads.  If you can see shiny spots on the
screwdriver tip, replace it with a new one.

73,
Don W3FPR


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Re: Locktite

Edward R Cole
In reply to this post by Dave KD1NA
First off my K3 (SN-4043) probably does not have stainless hdwr and
no evidence of rusting living 2mi from saltwater.

I used blue locktite on 8-32 ss hardware assembling my 6m beam and
has survived well normal wind vibrations.  I guess those living in
the highly urbanized world do not drive on unpaved roads so would not
see abnormal vibration.

The worst mobile radio install I encountered was putting a 100w
GE-Mastr-II into a D8 Cat on the Alaska North Slope.  It survived
less than 24 hours.  I drilled and tapped 1/4-20 holes for mounting
and the internal hardware all loosened and the whole insides fell apart.

I was new to mobile radio at the time (1982) and was not aware that
they made anti-vibration platforms for this kind of service.  The had
spring-mount with small shock absorbers between a metal subchassis
plate and the vehicle.  Not my fault as my employer just showed me
the work list and left me in charge of the shop.  After an hour on
the job: "Here's the keys, here's the work list, don't shutoff the
suburban, see you in three weeks".  High temp was -15F outside.

I worked 18-hour days x 21 and hauled some cash home...never went
back up there, again.

73, Ed - KL7UW
http://www.kl7uw.com
     "Kits made by KL7UW"
Dubus Mag business:
     [hidden email]

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