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More Power Pole. .

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Ken G Kopp

More Power Pole. .

I note we don't see complaints about coaxial power connectors "pulling
out". As for numbers, there are far more of these in use in our electronic
environment, and they will pull out far easier that a set of APP's.

I have ... by actual count ... almost 50 pairs of APP's in my shack. Once,
to test the validity of the complaints, I deliberately slid my K3 on the
Masonite desktop using the power cable. Have never had one "come apart".
BTW, I -do- use the roll pins that hold the pairs together.

73!

Ken - K0PP
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Phil Salas

Re: More Power Pole. .

I have to admit. I hate those 2.1mm DC connectors. Most are really not
designed for current over 1-amp, though there are expectgions. I wish
the KX3 had Powerpoles on it instead! I have Powerpoles all over my ham
shack and work bench, and have had no problems. Rather than used those
roll-pins, I use a dab of super-glue to hold the connectors together.

Phil - AD5X

"I note we don't see complaints about coaxial power connectors "pulling
out". As for numbers, there are far more of these in use in our
electronic environment, and they will pull out far easier that a set of
APP's. I have ... by actual count ... almost 50 pairs of APP's in my
shack. Once, to test the validity of the complaints, I deliberately slid
my K3 on the Masonite desktop using the power cable. Have never had one
"come apart". BTW, I -do- use the roll pins that hold the pairs
together. 73! Ken - K0PP"

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Joshua Gould, K8WXA

Re: More Power Pole. .

The only problems I've ever had with Powerpoles are the ones I've created
my self. Either by trying to use too thick of an insulation to using the
wrong amperage PP's for the wire size I'm crimping. I've never had a set
of Powerpoles disconnect on their own and that includes using them mobile...

Just my .02

72,
Joshua Gould
K8WXA
EM89pn

KX3# 7465

On Tue, Feb 17, 2015 at 11:20 AM, Phil & Debbie Salas <[hidden email]>
wrote:

> I have to admit. I hate those 2.1mm DC connectors. Most are really not
> designed for current over 1-amp, though there are expectgions. I wish the
> KX3 had Powerpoles on it instead! I have Powerpoles all over my ham shack
> and work bench, and have had no problems. Rather than used those
> roll-pins, I use a dab of super-glue to hold the connectors together.
>
> Phil - AD5X
>
>
> "I note we don't see complaints about coaxial power connectors "pulling
> out". As for numbers, there are far more of these in use in our electronic
> environment, and they will pull out far easier that a set of APP's. I have
> ... by actual count ... almost 50 pairs of APP's in my shack. Once, to test
> the validity of the complaints, I deliberately slid my K3 on the Masonite
> desktop using the power cable. Have never had one "come apart". BTW, I -do-
> use the roll pins that hold the pairs together. 73! Ken - K0PP"
>
> ______________________________________________________________
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>

N5GE

Re: More Power Pole. .

In reply to this post by Ken G Kopp

When I finish attaching them (correctly) to the wires I install the
roll pin and then add heat-shrink from one inch behind the assembly to
where just covers the roll pin.

73,

Tom - N5GE

On Tue, 17 Feb 2015 08:57:37 -0700, you wrote:

>I note we don't see complaints about coaxial power connectors "pulling
>out". As for numbers, there are far more of these in use in our electronic
>environment, and they will pull out far easier that a set of APP's.
>
>I have ... by actual count ... almost 50 pairs of APP's in my shack. Once,
>to test the validity of the complaints, I deliberately slid my K3 on the
>Masonite desktop using the power cable. Have never had one "come apart".
>BTW, I -do- use the roll pins that hold the pairs together.
>
>73!
>
>Ken - K0PP
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Amateur Radio Operator N5GE

kg7vq

Re: More Power Pole. .

I crazy glue the connector shells and use a Q-tip stem in place of the roll pin. They trim easily, seem to be the same size, are readily available and non-conductive. I can't take credit for the Q-tip, I read it somewhere.

Stephen G4SJP

Re: More Power Pole. .

Good idea, I've found that the roll pins fall out some times, in fact I've
stopped using them for that reason. Q-tips sound a far better and cheaper
idea.

Never ever had a problem with powerpoles, including their use in a Land
Rover. Just make sure you hear the click as the pin goes into the
housing. Tried crimping, went back to soldering...

Stephen G4SJP

On 17 February 2015 at 20:04, kg7vq <[hidden email]> wrote:

> I crazy glue the connector shells and use a Q-tip stem in place of the roll
> pin. They trim easily, seem to be the same size, are readily available and
> non-conductive. I can't take credit for the Q-tip, I read it somewhere.
>
>
>
>
>
> --
> View this message in context:
> http://elecraft.365791.n2.nabble.com/More-Power-Pole-tp7598694p7598728.html
> Sent from the Elecraft mailing list archive at Nabble.com.
> ______________________________________________________________
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Terry Schieler-2

Re: More Power Pole. . Roll Pin substitute

In reply to this post by Phil Salas

Similar to Phil's approach, rather than using the metal roll pin, I break off a wooden toothpick in the retention hole and put a drop of super glue on the toothpick.

Terry W0FM

-----Original Message-----
From: Phil & Debbie Salas [mailto:[hidden email]]
Sent: Tuesday, February 17, 2015 10:21 AM
To: [hidden email]
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] More Power Pole. .

I have to admit. I hate those 2.1mm DC connectors. Most are really not designed for current over 1-amp, though there are expectgions. I wish the KX3 had Powerpoles on it instead! I have Powerpoles all over my ham shack and work bench, and have had no problems. Rather than used those roll-pins, I use a dab of super-glue to hold the connectors together.

Phil - AD5X

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Don Wilhelm-4

Re: More Power Pole. . Roll Pin substitute

As was pointed out in a prior posts, there are 2 forms of "problems"
with the APP connector.
One is the retention force of the connector pair - in other words, "it
comes unplugged"
That problem is usually due to incorrect assembly where the connector
blades are not fully seated in the housings. This is the condition that
I first responded to.

The 2nd "problem" is that the red and black housings become separated,
and seems to be the condition that is currently being discussed. This
has to do with the roll-pin or toothpick or cotton swab shaft being
placed in the hole. I use Super Glue between the red and black housings
and have never had a problem. I on occasion use the roll-pin in
addition, but I put a drop of super glue on the pin itself before
sliding it 'home'. I have never had an APP connector where the 2
housings separate, and the glued roll-pins do not fall out.

73,
Don W3FPR

On 2/17/2015 5:08 PM, Terry Schieler wrote:
> Similar to Phil's approach, rather than using the metal roll pin, I break off a wooden toothpick in the retention hole and put a drop of super glue on the toothpick.
>
> Terry W0FM
>

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Elecraft mailing list

Re: More Power Pole. . Roll Pin substitute

In reply to this post by Terry Schieler-2

And therein lies the problem:
First, they may be cute but they ain't cheap
Then, you have to buy a special crimper
The assembly is tricky (up, down, right, left - did I hear it snap in
place or snap in two?)
You could try to use a roll pin - oh no, those don't work as designed so
you use a broken-off QTip
Even with the QTip/roll pin/toothpick, you have to superglue the halves
together because they won't hold as designed
Then, you have to put a zip tie or tape around them so they don't pull out
Plus, they are flimsy plastic so they are prone to breaking

The Powerpole is a Mickey Mouse solution in search of a problem. What
was wrong with the good old Molex?

To keep this on an Elecraft related topic, I just hope these things
don't show up on any more wonderful Elecraft equipment.

Buck
k4ia

On 2/17/2015 5:08 PM, Terry Schieler wrote:

> Similar to Phil's approach, rather than using the metal roll pin, I break off a wooden toothpick in the retention hole and put a drop of super glue on the toothpick.
>
> Terry W0FM
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Phil & Debbie Salas [mailto:[hidden email]]
> Sent: Tuesday, February 17, 2015 10:21 AM
> To: [hidden email]
> Subject: Re: [Elecraft] More Power Pole. .
>
> I have to admit. I hate those 2.1mm DC connectors. Most are really not designed for current over 1-amp, though there are expectgions. I wish the KX3 had Powerpoles on it instead! I have Powerpoles all over my ham shack and work bench, and have had no problems. Rather than used those roll-pins, I use a dab of super-glue to hold the connectors together.
>
> Phil - AD5X
>
>
> ______________________________________________________________
> Elecraft mailing list
> Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft
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>
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Wes (N7WS)

Re: More Power Pole. . Roll Pin substitute

Can we get an AMEN?

On 2/17/2015 3:44 PM, K4ia via Elecraft wrote:

> And therein lies the problem:
> First, they may be cute but they ain't cheap
> Then, you have to buy a special crimper
> The assembly is tricky (up, down, right, left - did I hear it snap in place or
> snap in two?)
> You could try to use a roll pin - oh no, those don't work as designed so you
> use a broken-off QTip
> Even with the QTip/roll pin/toothpick, you have to superglue the halves
> together because they won't hold as designed
> Then, you have to put a zip tie or tape around them so they don't pull out
> Plus, they are flimsy plastic so they are prone to breaking
>
> The Powerpole is a Mickey Mouse solution in search of a problem. What was
> wrong with the good old Molex?
>
> To keep this on an Elecraft related topic, I just hope these things don't show
> up on any more wonderful Elecraft equipment.
>
> Buck
>

Lewis Phelps

Re: More Power Pole. . Roll Pin substitute

In reply to this post by Don Wilhelm-4

There is a third potential problem with APP connectors; they aren’t completely “reverse polarity” protected. Several years ago, I stupidly plugged the APP cable into the back of my K3 “by feel” rather than by looking. I offset the alignment, and plugged the red plug from the cable (hot) into the black APP connector on the rig. Since I had grounded the K3 like a good boy. that created a reverse-polarity power situation that fried several components and resulted in a trip to Aptos for my K3.

There are two ways to resolve this problem. One is to never, ever plug an APP set into a piece of equipment without visually checking to make sure you are aligned “red to red, black to black.” It’s also possible to mate the APP connectors so that you can’t plug red into black (by rotating the red plug 90° on both the rig and the power cable. I’ve come to rely on the former solution, but have seriously contemplated equipment modifications to do the latter.

All that said, I am a steadfast supporter of APP connector technology. For all the reasons cited in other posts, I think it’s superior to every other power connector on the market. And contrary to some posts, it doesn’t require an “expensive special tool” to crimp the pins. onto wires. There are several low-cost “pliers-like” crimpers on the market, including the Gardner-Bender GS-88 ($10) that do a good job at a modest price.

And speaking of crimping tools, for those who prefer crimped lugs to solder, Harbor Freight’s hydraulic crimping tool (Item 66150) is a real gem for crimping lugs onto large wires (AWG 8 and bigger.) It isn’t cheap, but it makes a perfectly formed (and very secure) crimp in copper and other lugs typically used on large-gauge wires. It does a good job on smaller sizes, too, although it’s somewhat cumbersome to use compared with other crimpers that work well on AWG 12 and smaller wire sizes.

Lew Phelps N6LEW
Pasadena, CA DM04wd
Elecraft K3-10 / KXV144 / XV432
Yaesu FT-7800
[hidden email]
www.n6lew.us

Sent from my Mac Pro 256-Array Supercomputer (9.42 teraflops)

> On Feb 17, 2015, at 2:28 PM, Don Wilhelm <[hidden email]> wrote:
>
> As was pointed out in a prior posts, there are 2 forms of "problems" with the APP connector.
> One is the retention force of the connector pair - in other words, "it comes unplugged"
> That problem is usually due to incorrect assembly where the connector blades are not fully seated in the housings. This is the condition that I first responded to.
>
> The 2nd "problem" is that the red and black housings become separated, and seems to be the condition that is currently being discussed. This has to do with the roll-pin or toothpick or cotton swab shaft being placed in the hole. I use Super Glue between the red and black housings and have never had a problem. I on occasion use the roll-pin in addition, but I put a drop of super glue on the pin itself before sliding it 'home'. I have never had an APP connector where the 2 housings separate, and the glued roll-pins do not fall out.
>
> 73,
> Don W3FPR
>
> On 2/17/2015 5:08 PM, Terry Schieler wrote:
>> Similar to Phil's approach, rather than using the metal roll pin, I break off a wooden toothpick in the retention hole and put a drop of super glue on the toothpick.
>>
>> Terry W0FM
>>
>
> ______________________________________________________________
> Elecraft mailing list
> Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft
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> Post: mailto:[hidden email]
>
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> Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
> Message delivered to [hidden email]
>

Elecraft mailing list

Re: More Power Pole. . Roll Pin substitute

Actually what I do on the power distribution boxes I build is to recess the power poles.
It makes it nearly impossible to insert the connector wrong.
I have a small rectangle with a hole in the center for the power pole that I plan tomount on the back of my K3 to prevent the possibility of the plug being inserted wrong.
a 5 cent piece of plastic could save a whole lot of trouble
From: Lewis Phelps <[hidden email]>
To: Elecraft Reflector <[hidden email]>
Sent: Tuesday, February 17, 2015 6:33 PM
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] More Power Pole. . Roll Pin substitute

There is a third potential problem with APP connectors; they aren’t completely “reverse polarity” protected. Several years ago, I stupidly plugged the APP cable into the back of my K3 “by feel” rather than by looking. I offset the alignment, and plugged the red plug from the cable (hot) into the black APP connector on the rig. Since I had grounded the K3 like a good boy. that created a reverse-polarity power situation that fried several components and resulted in a trip to Aptos for my K3.

There are two ways to resolve this problem. One is to never, ever plug an APP set into a piece of equipment without visually checking to make sure you are aligned “red to red, black to black.” It’s also possible to mate the APP connectors so that you can’t plug red into black (by rotating the red plug 90° on both the rig and the power cable. I’ve come to rely on the former solution, but have seriously contemplated equipment modifications to do the latter.

All that said, I am a steadfast supporter of APP connector technology. For all the reasons cited in other posts, I think it’s superior to every other power connector on the market. And contrary to some posts, it doesn’t require an “expensive special tool” to crimp the pins. onto wires. There are several low-cost “pliers-like” crimpers on the market, including the Gardner-Bender GS-88 ($10) that do a good job at a modest price.

And speaking of crimping tools, for those who prefer crimped lugs to solder, Harbor Freight’s hydraulic crimping tool (Item 66150) is a real gem for crimping lugs onto large wires (AWG 8 and bigger.) It isn’t cheap, but it makes a perfectly formed (and very secure) crimp in copper and other lugs typically used on large-gauge wires. It does a good job on smaller sizes, too, although it’s somewhat cumbersome to use compared with other crimpers that work well on AWG 12 and smaller wire sizes.

Lew Phelps N6LEW
Pasadena, CA DM04wd
Elecraft K3-10 / KXV144 / XV432
Yaesu FT-7800
[hidden email]
www.n6lew.us

Sent from my Mac Pro 256-Array Supercomputer (9.42 teraflops)

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Paul Gordon N6LL

Re: More Power Pole. . Roll Pin substitute

In reply to this post by Lewis Phelps

Amen.

( you stole my thunder, Harry. :-)

Another way to resolve the offset alignment problem is to have a
mechanical stop which keeps the connector from mating when it is offset.
The panel can be the stop if the connector is recessed to be flush with
the panel, and the hole is the right size. Alternatively, a bolt or
standoff on either end of the panel connector pair can act as a stop and
a guide. This solution does not address cable-to-cable connections.

I suspect the APP solution would be to use three housings on cables, red
in the middle, black on one end, and a dummy blocking pin glued into the
other. They sell long spacers which could be used for the blocking pin.

73, Paul N6LL
Still recovering from the 2-pin Jones which the local club wired
backwards...

On 2/17/2015 3:33 PM, Lewis Phelps wrote:

> There is a third potential problem with APP connectors; they aren’t completely “reverse polarity” protected. Several years ago, I stupidly plugged the APP cable into the back of my K3 “by feel” rather than by looking. I offset the alignment, and plugged the red plug from the cable (hot) into the black APP connector on the rig. Since I had grounded the K3 like a good boy. that created a reverse-polarity power situation that fried several components and resulted in a trip to Aptos for my K3.
>
> There are two ways to resolve this problem. One is to never, ever plug an APP set into a piece of equipment without visually checking to make sure you are aligned “red to red, black to black.” It’s also possible to mate the APP connectors so that you can’t plug red into black (by rotating the red plug 90° on both the rig and the power cable. I’ve come to rely on the former solution, but have seriously contemplated equipment modifications to do the latter.
>
> All that said, I am a steadfast supporter of APP connector technology. For all the reasons cited in other posts, I think it’s superior to every other power connector on the market. And contrary to some posts, it doesn’t require an “expensive special tool” to crimp the pins. onto wires. There are several low-cost “pliers-like” crimpers on the market, including the Gardner-Bender GS-88 ($10) that do a good job at a modest price.
>
> And speaking of crimping tools, for those who prefer crimped lugs to solder, Harbor Freight’s hydraulic crimping tool (Item 66150) is a real gem for crimping lugs onto large wires (AWG 8 and bigger.) It isn’t cheap, but it makes a perfectly formed (and very secure) crimp in copper and other lugs typically used on large-gauge wires. It does a good job on smaller sizes, too, although it’s somewhat cumbersome to use compared with other crimpers that work well on AWG 12 and smaller wire sizes.
>
>
> Lew Phelps N6LEW
> Pasadena, CA DM04wd
> Elecraft K3-10 / KXV144 / XV432
> Yaesu FT-7800
> [hidden email]
> www.n6lew.us
>
> Sent from my Mac Pro 256-Array Supercomputer (9.42 teraflops)
>
>
>
>
>
>> On Feb 17, 2015, at 2:28 PM, Don Wilhelm <[hidden email]> wrote:
>>
>> As was pointed out in a prior posts, there are 2 forms of "problems" with the APP connector.
>> One is the retention force of the connector pair - in other words, "it comes unplugged"
>> That problem is usually due to incorrect assembly where the connector blades are not fully seated in the housings. This is the condition that I first responded to.
>>
>> The 2nd "problem" is that the red and black housings become separated, and seems to be the condition that is currently being discussed. This has to do with the roll-pin or toothpick or cotton swab shaft being placed in the hole. I use Super Glue between the red and black housings and have never had a problem. I on occasion use the roll-pin in addition, but I put a drop of super glue on the pin itself before sliding it 'home'. I have never had an APP connector where the 2 housings separate, and the glued roll-pins do not fall out.
>>
>> 73,
>> Don W3FPR
>>
>> On 2/17/2015 5:08 PM, Terry Schieler wrote:
>>> Similar to Phil's approach, rather than using the metal roll pin, I break off a wooden toothpick in the retention hole and put a drop of super glue on the toothpick.
>>>
>>> Terry W0FM
>>>
>> ______________________________________________________________
>> Elecraft mailing list
>> Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft
>> Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm
>> Post: mailto:[hidden email]
>>
>> This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net
>> Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
>> Message delivered to [hidden email]
>>
> ______________________________________________________________
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