Need additional troubleshooting steps for inoperable KXAT1
Locked
Need additional troubleshooting steps for inoperable KXAT1
 
|
I'm having trouble with my KXAT1. More specifically, (1) I can't get
the power reading to adjust up to anywhere near the actual TX power and (2) the SWR reading with the DL1 dummy load attached is 9.9, which I assume is not a good thing. Here are the data bits: 1) There's no 30/80m module. 2) I ohm'ed out the DL1 and it reads 50.1 ohms. Close enough. 3) With the R1 pot set at ~50%, the KX1's power display is 0.7 watts in 'tun' mode. The power reading at the DL1 is 3.6 watts, which is pretty much the same reading I got after I finished the KX1's transmit section (before adding the AT). Cranked fully CW (?), the maximum displayed power reading is 2.1 watts on the KX1. 4) During calibration, nulling the voltage on the REFL test point results in a voltage of approx 1.75 volts. I've seen posts on the reflector where folks are getting nulls well below 1V. I suppose this isn't a good thing, either... 5) I ohm'ed inductors L1, L2, and L3 after installation and all three read <0.3 ohms. I'll assume that means good stripping/tinning/soldering. 6) I tried ohm'ing transformer T1 after it was installed to see if I had any shorts but I'm reading <0.3 ohms across any combination of leads. This (sorta') makes sense -- given how it's gonna' react to DC -- but doesn't tell me anything. 7) I quadruple checked my installation of T1. The picture and notes in the assembly manual are a bit confusing and unlike all other Ls and Ts I've installed so far, the footprint/silkscreen for T1 doesn't line up with how the winding is described. What looks like a clean, drop-in install results in -- as I read it -- incorrect phasing. Matching T1's wiring diagram / picture to its silkscreen forces the leads to run under the toroid in a "contorted" fashion. As ugly as it was going in, that's how I have it soldered in place. 8) When instructed to tune, the resultant SWR is always displayed as 9.9. (I can hear the relays clicking on-and-off in rapid succession during the tune...) I tried the inductor/capacitor test outlined in the KXAT1's troubleshooting guide, but regardless of the L0/1/2/3 or C0/1/2/3 setting, the SWR always displays as 9.9 So, I'm at an impasse. I don't wanna' start randomly removing components -- I haven't yet had to remove a single component from the KX1 or the AT -- but I'm at a loss as to what to do next. Are there any other troubleshooting steps?? I'll never claim to be a guru on this stuff -- in fact, I'm not 100% certain how an AT even works -- so any additional guidance would be greatly appreciated. Thanx!! Scott AC0FQ KX1 s/n 2177 ______________________________________________________________ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:[hidden email] This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html |
Re: Need additional troubleshooting steps for inoperable KXAT1
|
|
Scott,
The problem lies with #4 and #7 below. Look carefully at the diagram of T1 on page 5 of the KXAT1 instructions. If yours looks 'backwards', then it may be wound in the wrong sense. When viewed as in the diagram, the leads coming off the core closest to you are numbered 2 and 4, and the turns from that end progress clockwise around the core. If you have the sense 'backwards', the leads will cross over under the core when it is mounted - that is not what should happen. If you have it right, the leads will drop straight down from the core onto the board when it is mounted. Yes, all the T1 leads will appear to be shorted together after T1 is installed - that is not a valid check. If everything is correct, you will find a deep null when adjusting the capacitor. The voltage at the null point should be in the tens of millivolt range. If you do not find the null, then look for something wrong with T1, C9, C10, R4 or R5. Also check the orientation of D1 and D2. Do not attempt power or SWR calibration until after you can achieve a good null - all attempts to do so will lead to frustration and incorrect results. 73, Don W3FPR Scott Wright wrote: > I'm having trouble with my KXAT1. More specifically, (1) I can't get > the power reading to adjust up to anywhere near the actual TX power and > (2) the SWR reading with the DL1 dummy load attached is 9.9, which I > assume is not a good thing. > > Here are the data bits: > > 1) There's no 30/80m module. > > 2) I ohm'ed out the DL1 and it reads 50.1 ohms. Close enough. > > 3) With the R1 pot set at ~50%, the KX1's power display is 0.7 watts in > 'tun' mode. The power reading at the DL1 is 3.6 watts, which is pretty > much the same reading I got after I finished the KX1's transmit section > (before adding the AT). Cranked fully CW (?), the maximum displayed > power reading is 2.1 watts on the KX1. > > 4) During calibration, nulling the voltage on the REFL test point > results in a voltage of approx 1.75 volts. I've seen posts on the > reflector where folks are getting nulls well below 1V. I suppose this > isn't a good thing, either... > > 5) I ohm'ed inductors L1, L2, and L3 after installation and all three > read <0.3 ohms. I'll assume that means good stripping/tinning/soldering. > > 6) I tried ohm'ing transformer T1 after it was installed to see if I > had any shorts but I'm reading <0.3 ohms across any combination of > leads. This (sorta') makes sense -- given how it's gonna' react to DC > -- but doesn't tell me anything. > > 7) I quadruple checked my installation of T1. The picture and notes in > the assembly manual are a bit confusing and unlike all other Ls and Ts > I've installed so far, the footprint/silkscreen for T1 doesn't line up > with how the winding is described. What looks like a clean, drop-in > install results in -- as I read it -- incorrect phasing. Matching T1's > wiring diagram / picture to its silkscreen forces the leads to run under > the toroid in a "contorted" fashion. As ugly as it was going in, that's > how I have it soldered in place. > > 8) When instructed to tune, the resultant SWR is always displayed as > 9.9. (I can hear the relays clicking on-and-off in rapid succession > during the tune...) I tried the inductor/capacitor test outlined in the > KXAT1's troubleshooting guide, but regardless of the L0/1/2/3 or > C0/1/2/3 setting, the SWR always displays as 9.9 > > So, I'm at an impasse. I don't wanna' start randomly removing > components -- I haven't yet had to remove a single component from the > KX1 or the AT -- but I'm at a loss as to what to do next. > > Are there any other troubleshooting steps?? I'll never claim to be a > guru on this stuff -- in fact, I'm not 100% certain how an AT even works > -- so any additional guidance would be greatly appreciated. > > Thanx!! > > Scott > AC0FQ > KX1 s/n 2177 > ______________________________________________________________ > Elecraft mailing list > Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft > Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm > Post: mailto:[hidden email] > > This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net > Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html > ------------------------------------------------------------------------ > > > No virus found in this incoming message. > Checked by AVG - www.avg.com > Version: 8.0.237 / Virus Database: 270.11.13/2001 - Release Date: 03/14/09 06:54:00 > > Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:[hidden email] This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html |
Re: Need additional troubleshooting steps for inoperable KXAT1
|
|
Don,
Thanx for your reply! "When viewed as in the diagram, the leads coming off the core closest to you are numbered 2 and 4..." That's gotta' be the problem then. In my documentation, those two wires are labeled as 1&3. Had they been labeled as 2&4, I would have had the "clean, drop-in install" I referred to in my original e-mail. Couple that with the informational statement, "...the wires labeled (1) and (3) should originate from below the core...", it was easy to convince myself that such a bizarre lead routing alignment was necessary. Oof dah... OK, I'm off to unsolder T1 and try to get it installed correctly. I'll let you know what results. Again, thanx for the pointers! Scott AC0FQ Don Wilhelm wrote: > Scott, > > The problem lies with #4 and #7 below. > Look carefully at the diagram of T1 on page 5 of the KXAT1 > instructions. If yours looks 'backwards', then it may be wound in the > wrong sense. When viewed as in the diagram, the leads coming off the > core closest to you are numbered 2 and 4, and the turns from that end > progress clockwise around the core. > If you have the sense 'backwards', the leads will cross over under the > core when it is mounted - that is not what should happen. If you have > it right, the leads will drop straight down from the core onto the > board when it is mounted. > > Yes, all the T1 leads will appear to be shorted together after T1 is > installed - that is not a valid check. > > If everything is correct, you will find a deep null when adjusting the > capacitor. The voltage at the null point should be in the tens of > millivolt range. If you do not find the null, then look for something > wrong with T1, C9, C10, R4 or R5. Also check the orientation of D1 > and D2. > > Do not attempt power or SWR calibration until after you can achieve a > good null - all attempts to do so will lead to frustration and > incorrect results. > > 73, > Don W3FPR > > > Scott Wright wrote: >> I'm having trouble with my KXAT1. More specifically, (1) I can't get >> the power reading to adjust up to anywhere near the actual TX power and >> (2) the SWR reading with the DL1 dummy load attached is 9.9, which I >> assume is not a good thing. >> >> Here are the data bits: >> >> 1) There's no 30/80m module. >> >> 2) I ohm'ed out the DL1 and it reads 50.1 ohms. Close enough. >> >> 3) With the R1 pot set at ~50%, the KX1's power display is 0.7 watts in >> 'tun' mode. The power reading at the DL1 is 3.6 watts, which is pretty >> much the same reading I got after I finished the KX1's transmit section >> (before adding the AT). Cranked fully CW (?), the maximum displayed >> power reading is 2.1 watts on the KX1. >> >> 4) During calibration, nulling the voltage on the REFL test point >> results in a voltage of approx 1.75 volts. I've seen posts on the >> reflector where folks are getting nulls well below 1V. I suppose this >> isn't a good thing, either... >> >> 5) I ohm'ed inductors L1, L2, and L3 after installation and all three >> read <0.3 ohms. I'll assume that means good >> stripping/tinning/soldering. >> >> 6) I tried ohm'ing transformer T1 after it was installed to see if I >> had any shorts but I'm reading <0.3 ohms across any combination of >> leads. This (sorta') makes sense -- given how it's gonna' react to DC >> -- but doesn't tell me anything. >> >> 7) I quadruple checked my installation of T1. The picture and notes in >> the assembly manual are a bit confusing and unlike all other Ls and Ts >> I've installed so far, the footprint/silkscreen for T1 doesn't line up >> with how the winding is described. What looks like a clean, drop-in >> install results in -- as I read it -- incorrect phasing. Matching T1's >> wiring diagram / picture to its silkscreen forces the leads to run under >> the toroid in a "contorted" fashion. As ugly as it was going in, that's >> how I have it soldered in place. >> >> 8) When instructed to tune, the resultant SWR is always displayed as >> 9.9. (I can hear the relays clicking on-and-off in rapid succession >> during the tune...) I tried the inductor/capacitor test outlined in the >> KXAT1's troubleshooting guide, but regardless of the L0/1/2/3 or >> C0/1/2/3 setting, the SWR always displays as 9.9 >> >> So, I'm at an impasse. I don't wanna' start randomly removing >> components -- I haven't yet had to remove a single component from the >> KX1 or the AT -- but I'm at a loss as to what to do next. >> >> Are there any other troubleshooting steps?? I'll never claim to be a >> guru on this stuff -- in fact, I'm not 100% certain how an AT even works >> -- so any additional guidance would be greatly appreciated. >> >> Thanx!! >> >> Scott >> AC0FQ >> KX1 s/n 2177 >> ______________________________________________________________ >> Elecraft mailing list >> Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft >> Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm >> Post: mailto:[hidden email] >> >> This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net >> Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html >> ------------------------------------------------------------------------ >> >> >> No virus found in this incoming message. >> Checked by AVG - www.avg.com Version: 8.0.237 / Virus Database: >> 270.11.13/2001 - Release Date: 03/14/09 06:54:00 >> >> > Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:[hidden email] This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html |
Re: Need additional troubleshooting steps for inoperable KXAT1
|
|
Don,
OK, I got the KXAT1 working! Turns out the documentation was right -- the wires *are* numbered correctly. My bad. (Shame on me -- no more late night soldering for Scott...) I got a rock solid 0.000V calibration null and the power readings are within 0.1 watt of what I'm getting from the DL1. Now it looks like all I need to do is build an antenna and wire the stereo plug to my J-38 key. Then it's play time! So, thanx again, Don! Scott AC0FQ Scott Wright wrote: > Don, > > Thanx for your reply! > > "When viewed as in the diagram, the leads coming off the core closest to > you are numbered 2 and 4..." > > That's gotta' be the problem then. In my documentation, those two wires > are labeled as 1&3. Had they been labeled as 2&4, I would have had the > "clean, drop-in install" I referred to in my original e-mail. Couple > that with the informational statement, "...the wires labeled (1) and (3) > should originate from below the core...", it was easy to convince myself > that such a bizarre lead routing alignment was necessary. > > Oof dah... > > OK, I'm off to unsolder T1 and try to get it installed correctly. I'll > let you know what results. > > Again, thanx for the pointers! > > Scott > AC0FQ > > > Don Wilhelm wrote: > >> Scott, >> >> The problem lies with #4 and #7 below. >> Look carefully at the diagram of T1 on page 5 of the KXAT1 >> instructions. If yours looks 'backwards', then it may be wound in the >> wrong sense. When viewed as in the diagram, the leads coming off the >> core closest to you are numbered 2 and 4, and the turns from that end >> progress clockwise around the core. >> If you have the sense 'backwards', the leads will cross over under the >> core when it is mounted - that is not what should happen. If you have >> it right, the leads will drop straight down from the core onto the >> board when it is mounted. >> >> Yes, all the T1 leads will appear to be shorted together after T1 is >> installed - that is not a valid check. >> >> If everything is correct, you will find a deep null when adjusting the >> capacitor. The voltage at the null point should be in the tens of >> millivolt range. If you do not find the null, then look for something >> wrong with T1, C9, C10, R4 or R5. Also check the orientation of D1 >> and D2. >> >> Do not attempt power or SWR calibration until after you can achieve a >> good null - all attempts to do so will lead to frustration and >> incorrect results. >> >> 73, >> Don W3FPR >> >> >> Scott Wright wrote: >> >>> I'm having trouble with my KXAT1. More specifically, (1) I can't get >>> the power reading to adjust up to anywhere near the actual TX power and >>> (2) the SWR reading with the DL1 dummy load attached is 9.9, which I >>> assume is not a good thing. >>> >>> Here are the data bits: >>> >>> 1) There's no 30/80m module. >>> >>> 2) I ohm'ed out the DL1 and it reads 50.1 ohms. Close enough. >>> >>> 3) With the R1 pot set at ~50%, the KX1's power display is 0.7 watts in >>> 'tun' mode. The power reading at the DL1 is 3.6 watts, which is pretty >>> much the same reading I got after I finished the KX1's transmit section >>> (before adding the AT). Cranked fully CW (?), the maximum displayed >>> power reading is 2.1 watts on the KX1. >>> >>> 4) During calibration, nulling the voltage on the REFL test point >>> results in a voltage of approx 1.75 volts. I've seen posts on the >>> reflector where folks are getting nulls well below 1V. I suppose this >>> isn't a good thing, either... >>> >>> 5) I ohm'ed inductors L1, L2, and L3 after installation and all three >>> read <0.3 ohms. I'll assume that means good >>> stripping/tinning/soldering. >>> >>> 6) I tried ohm'ing transformer T1 after it was installed to see if I >>> had any shorts but I'm reading <0.3 ohms across any combination of >>> leads. This (sorta') makes sense -- given how it's gonna' react to DC >>> -- but doesn't tell me anything. >>> >>> 7) I quadruple checked my installation of T1. The picture and notes in >>> the assembly manual are a bit confusing and unlike all other Ls and Ts >>> I've installed so far, the footprint/silkscreen for T1 doesn't line up >>> with how the winding is described. What looks like a clean, drop-in >>> install results in -- as I read it -- incorrect phasing. Matching T1's >>> wiring diagram / picture to its silkscreen forces the leads to run under >>> the toroid in a "contorted" fashion. As ugly as it was going in, that's >>> how I have it soldered in place. >>> >>> 8) When instructed to tune, the resultant SWR is always displayed as >>> 9.9. (I can hear the relays clicking on-and-off in rapid succession >>> during the tune...) I tried the inductor/capacitor test outlined in the >>> KXAT1's troubleshooting guide, but regardless of the L0/1/2/3 or >>> C0/1/2/3 setting, the SWR always displays as 9.9 >>> >>> So, I'm at an impasse. I don't wanna' start randomly removing >>> components -- I haven't yet had to remove a single component from the >>> KX1 or the AT -- but I'm at a loss as to what to do next. >>> >>> Are there any other troubleshooting steps?? I'll never claim to be a >>> guru on this stuff -- in fact, I'm not 100% certain how an AT even works >>> -- so any additional guidance would be greatly appreciated. >>> >>> Thanx!! >>> >>> Scott >>> AC0FQ >>> KX1 s/n 2177 >>> ______________________________________________________________ >>> Elecraft mailing list >>> Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft >>> Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm >>> Post: mailto:[hidden email] >>> >>> This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net >>> Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html >>> ------------------------------------------------------------------------ >>> >>> >>> No virus found in this incoming message. >>> Checked by AVG - www.avg.com Version: 8.0.237 / Virus Database: >>> 270.11.13/2001 - Release Date: 03/14/09 06:54:00 >>> >>> >>> > ______________________________________________________________ > Elecraft mailing list > Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft > Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm > Post: mailto:[hidden email] > > This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net > Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html > > Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:[hidden email] This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html |
Re: Need additional troubleshooting steps for inoperable KXAT1
|
|
Congratulations Scott - now have a good time with that KX1.
73, Don W3FPR Scott Wright wrote: > Don, > > OK, I got the KXAT1 working! Turns out the documentation was right -- > the wires *are* numbered correctly. My bad. (Shame on me -- no more late > night soldering for Scott...) I got a rock solid 0.000V calibration null > and the power readings are within 0.1 watt of what I'm getting from the > DL1. Now it looks like all I need to do is build an antenna and wire the > stereo plug to my J-38 key. Then it's play time! > > So, thanx again, Don! > > Scott > AC0FQ > > > Scott Wright wrote: > >> Don, >> >> Thanx for your reply! >> >> "When viewed as in the diagram, the leads coming off the core closest to >> you are numbered 2 and 4..." >> >> That's gotta' be the problem then. In my documentation, those two wires >> are labeled as 1&3. Had they been labeled as 2&4, I would have had the >> "clean, drop-in install" I referred to in my original e-mail. Couple >> that with the informational statement, "...the wires labeled (1) and (3) >> should originate from below the core...", it was easy to convince myself >> that such a bizarre lead routing alignment was necessary. >> >> Oof dah... >> >> OK, I'm off to unsolder T1 and try to get it installed correctly. I'll >> let you know what results. >> >> Again, thanx for the pointers! >> >> Scott >> AC0FQ >> >> >> Don Wilhelm wrote: >> >> >>> Scott, >>> >>> The problem lies with #4 and #7 below. >>> Look carefully at the diagram of T1 on page 5 of the KXAT1 >>> instructions. If yours looks 'backwards', then it may be wound in the >>> wrong sense. When viewed as in the diagram, the leads coming off the >>> core closest to you are numbered 2 and 4, and the turns from that end >>> progress clockwise around the core. >>> If you have the sense 'backwards', the leads will cross over under the >>> core when it is mounted - that is not what should happen. If you have >>> it right, the leads will drop straight down from the core onto the >>> board when it is mounted. >>> >>> Yes, all the T1 leads will appear to be shorted together after T1 is >>> installed - that is not a valid check. >>> >>> If everything is correct, you will find a deep null when adjusting the >>> capacitor. The voltage at the null point should be in the tens of >>> millivolt range. If you do not find the null, then look for something >>> wrong with T1, C9, C10, R4 or R5. Also check the orientation of D1 >>> and D2. >>> >>> Do not attempt power or SWR calibration until after you can achieve a >>> good null - all attempts to do so will lead to frustration and >>> incorrect results. >>> >>> 73, >>> Don W3FPR >>> >>> >>> Scott Wright wrote: >>> >>> >>>> I'm having trouble with my KXAT1. More specifically, (1) I can't get >>>> the power reading to adjust up to anywhere near the actual TX power and >>>> (2) the SWR reading with the DL1 dummy load attached is 9.9, which I >>>> assume is not a good thing. >>>> >>>> Here are the data bits: >>>> >>>> 1) There's no 30/80m module. >>>> >>>> 2) I ohm'ed out the DL1 and it reads 50.1 ohms. Close enough. >>>> >>>> 3) With the R1 pot set at ~50%, the KX1's power display is 0.7 watts in >>>> 'tun' mode. The power reading at the DL1 is 3.6 watts, which is pretty >>>> much the same reading I got after I finished the KX1's transmit section >>>> (before adding the AT). Cranked fully CW (?), the maximum displayed >>>> power reading is 2.1 watts on the KX1. >>>> >>>> 4) During calibration, nulling the voltage on the REFL test point >>>> results in a voltage of approx 1.75 volts. I've seen posts on the >>>> reflector where folks are getting nulls well below 1V. I suppose this >>>> isn't a good thing, either... >>>> >>>> 5) I ohm'ed inductors L1, L2, and L3 after installation and all three >>>> read <0.3 ohms. I'll assume that means good >>>> stripping/tinning/soldering. >>>> >>>> 6) I tried ohm'ing transformer T1 after it was installed to see if I >>>> had any shorts but I'm reading <0.3 ohms across any combination of >>>> leads. This (sorta') makes sense -- given how it's gonna' react to DC >>>> -- but doesn't tell me anything. >>>> >>>> 7) I quadruple checked my installation of T1. The picture and notes in >>>> the assembly manual are a bit confusing and unlike all other Ls and Ts >>>> I've installed so far, the footprint/silkscreen for T1 doesn't line up >>>> with how the winding is described. What looks like a clean, drop-in >>>> install results in -- as I read it -- incorrect phasing. Matching T1's >>>> wiring diagram / picture to its silkscreen forces the leads to run under >>>> the toroid in a "contorted" fashion. As ugly as it was going in, that's >>>> how I have it soldered in place. >>>> >>>> 8) When instructed to tune, the resultant SWR is always displayed as >>>> 9.9. (I can hear the relays clicking on-and-off in rapid succession >>>> during the tune...) I tried the inductor/capacitor test outlined in the >>>> KXAT1's troubleshooting guide, but regardless of the L0/1/2/3 or >>>> C0/1/2/3 setting, the SWR always displays as 9.9 >>>> >>>> So, I'm at an impasse. I don't wanna' start randomly removing >>>> components -- I haven't yet had to remove a single component from the >>>> KX1 or the AT -- but I'm at a loss as to what to do next. >>>> >>>> Are there any other troubleshooting steps?? I'll never claim to be a >>>> guru on this stuff -- in fact, I'm not 100% certain how an AT even works >>>> -- so any additional guidance would be greatly appreciated. >>>> >>>> Thanx!! >>>> >>>> Scott >>>> AC0FQ >>>> KX1 s/n 2177 >>>> ______________________________________________________________ >>>> Elecraft mailing list >>>> Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft >>>> Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm >>>> Post: mailto:[hidden email] >>>> >>>> This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net >>>> Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html >>>> ------------------------------------------------------------------------ >>>> >>>> >>>> No virus found in this incoming message. >>>> Checked by AVG - www.avg.com Version: 8.0.237 / Virus Database: >>>> 270.11.13/2001 - Release Date: 03/14/09 06:54:00 >>>> >>>> >>>> >>>> >> ______________________________________________________________ >> Elecraft mailing list >> Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft >> Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm >> Post: mailto:[hidden email] >> >> This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net >> Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html >> >> >> > ______________________________________________________________ > Elecraft mailing list > Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft > Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm > Post: mailto:[hidden email] > > This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net > Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html > ------------------------------------------------------------------------ > > > No virus found in this incoming message. > Checked by AVG - www.avg.com > Version: 8.0.237 / Virus Database: 270.11.13/2001 - Release Date: 03/14/09 06:54:00 > > Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:[hidden email] This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html |
«
Return to [KX1]
|
1 view|%1 views
| Free forum by Nabble | Edit this page |