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I apologize if this ends up as a duplicate posting ----- Original Message ----- From: Ken Kopp To: [hidden email] Sent: Saturday, 09 February, 2008 19:52 Subject: OT - Battery ratings The "real" AH ratings for batteries ... the kind we're referring to in this topic ... are difficult to learn. Most automotive-related ratings are specified in"cranking amperes", and this is -not- the rating that of interest here. It's consumer hype. I'm retired from an electric utility's communications department where we used various typed of LARGE battery banks. Our microwave stations all had "large" battery banks. Few realize that substation's relays and/or switching is done with 120 VDC. (They gotta function when the power's off.) Ditto for telephone systems at 48 VDC. A source of battery info ... in general ... can be found on the Trojan Battery site. I have an RV with 440 AH of Trojan batteries, a wind generator and 12A of solar panels on the roof, BTW. 73! Ken Kopp - K0PP [hidden email] or [hidden email] _______________________________________________ Elecraft mailing list Post to: [hidden email] You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com |
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In a message dated 2/9/08 3:24:59 PM Eastern Standard Time, [hidden email]
writes: > The "real" AH ratings for batteries ... the kind we're referring to > in this topic ... are difficult to learn. Most automotive-related > ratings are specified in"cranking amperes", and this is -not- the > rating that of interest here. Agreed. That's because amp-hour rating doesn't mean much by itself in auto applications. It's consumer hype. Not at all. A modern car battery really has only two jobs: 1) To deliver the enormous currents required to start the engine, in all temperatures and after having sat idle for long periods of time. 2) To power the electrical system for short periods when the engine isn't running or the charging system fails. 1) is the main job, 2) is secondary. Modern alternator/charging systems are designed to power everything on the car with the engine at idle. What we hams want for backup (small currents for long periods of time) is the opposite of what an engine-cranking battery is built to do. > > I'm retired from an electric utility's communications department > where we used various typed of LARGE battery banks. Our > microwave stations all had "large" battery banks. I work in railroad signalling, with similar requirements. The battery banks can get quite impressive, such as sixty 420 AH lead-acid cells for the switch machines - and that's one bank in one medium-size location. For standby service, some RRs use wet-cell NiCads, made by SAFT and other companies. They have better regulation, longer life, and tolerate things like being discharged down to almost nothing. They also stand extreme temperatures better. But they are only 1.25 volts per cell and cost more than lead-acid. Two other factors: Car batteries have to tolerate not only heat and cold but shock and vibration. Stationary batteries usually have much better conditions. Amp-hour ratings are dependent on discharge rate and final voltage - the higher the rate and/or final voltage, the lower the apparent amp-hours. A typical rating is 8 hours and 1.75 volts per cell such as "40 AH at the 8 hour rate, to 1.75 volts per cell", which means that a fully-charged new battery can deliver 5 amps for 8 hours before its voltage falls to the specified 1.75 volts per cell. (Note that 1.75 volts per cell in a six-cell battery is only 10.5 volts) At higher rates, the same battery will appear to have fewer AH - at a discharge rate of 10 A, it may only last 2 hours before reaching 1.75 volts per cell. OTOH, at low rates the cell may deliver much more than the 8 hour rating. Similar results from accepting higher or lower final volts-per-cell. 73 de Jim N2EY ************** Biggest Grammy Award surprises of all time on AOL Music. (http://music.aol.com/grammys/pictures/never-won-a-grammy?NCID=aolcmp00300000002548) _______________________________________________ Elecraft mailing list Post to: [hidden email] You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com |
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