OT: Installing PL-259's

[Hank Garretson]

On Tue, Nov 12, 2013 at 12:45 PM, Vic K2VCO <[hidden email]> wrote:

Not if it's removed carefully and tinned. I've done it hundreds of times.
>

Care helps. But for me usually isn't good enough. After tinning, I use a
small flat file to smooth the tinned braid. Then I apply a thin layer of
flux on the tinned braid.

Works like a champ every time.
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[Don Wilhelm-4]

I would think that "removing carefully could be helped by first removing
about a half inch of the outer jacket and tinning that - then remove the
remainder of the jacket.  That way the braid will not expand when it is
uncovered.

73,
Don W3FPR
On 11/12/2013 3:45 PM, Vic K2VCO wrote:

> Not if it's removed carefully and tinned. I've done it hundreds of times.
>
> On 11/12/2013 12:27 PM, AG0N-3055 wrote:
>> On Tue, 12 Nov 2013 09:00:41 -0800, Vic K2VCO wrote:
>>
>>> The trick is to remove the outer insulation carefully without
>>> damaging the braid and then
>>> tin it BEFORE trying to cut it. A large soldering iron (not a gun)
>>> makes it easy to tin
>>> without disturbing the braid or melting the insulation. Then cut the
>>> tinned braid with a
>>> tubing cutter.
>>
>> But just removing the insulating sheath allows the braid to expand to
>> larger diameter, causing it to catch on the inside of the connector in
>> many/most cases.
>>

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[daleputnam]

A very sharp knife, steady hands, and the method of cut, remedies that problem.FIrst, cut around the coax and the measured length from the end... being exactly how much TOTALvinyl needed off (full length of PL259 with tip included). Then, measure from the cut, using the PL-259 to just past the holes, mark the vinyl. Drop the PL259, then cut through the copper braid and vinyl,NOT the center insulator, yet, after making the full circle around the coax, peel off the vinyl and braid, of the outer end... leave the last cutof vinyl still on... inspect Closely that there isn't any left over braid... Then cut just a 1/16 of an inch towards the end but through the entire center insulator, but DO NOT nick the center conductor. Now, you have only the braid that will be showing under the holes, left covered with vinyl.but it is slit lengthwise already. And the center is sticking out bare.   Two options.. tin the braid.. or not. Either way will work.. the key to tinning .. is DO NOT use m
 uch solder.. and be careful with the heat to not melt the center insulator. OR after peeling the vinyl off.. screw the coax into the pl259, snugged up so the center insulator is tight against thePL259. Then.. with either method.. using high heat for a short amount of time.. flow solder through the holes.. this can NOT be done aceptable withthe small Weller gun. It can with the 550. AFTER the solder is flowed on the braid... inspect the center conductor, that the center insulation has notmelted a flowed out of the center pin.. knowing that care of the heating was done, flow solder into the center pin, and solder the center conductor to the pin. Screw on the shell.. OH CRAP.. no WAIT.. slide shell on from far end.. twice.. cause it went on backwards the first time.. and because it is a 200 foot run, take a break for coffee... then, go do the other end.. but remember.. shell first.. because you just finished the first end.
Have a great day,
 
 
--...   ...--
Dale - WC7S in Wy
 
 

> But just removing the insulating sheath allows the braid to expand to
> larger diameter, causing it to catch on the inside of the connector in
> many/most cases.
>

     
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[Charlie T, K3ICH]

>
> It makes an extremely rugged and reliable connection.  You could literally
> support your entire body weight from the cable without pulling it out of
> the connector.
>
> Alan N1AL
>
>
I agree,  try THAT with an "N" connector.

I have never concerned my self with the fact that the center insulation
might melt.  I simply make sure that the cable and connector are held
motionless during the soldering AND cooling process to follow.   So what if
it softens a bit, it'll solidify again as it cools. Like most hams, I have
installed many hundreds of UHF connectors over the years on RG-58, -8x
& -213.   Every failure has been due to my not catching a single strand from
the shield.

I like the idea of cutting the tinned braid with a tubing cutter.  That's
probably a LOT better than my flush-cutters which tend to cause the "hairs".

Admittedly, I DO use N connectors on anything above 2 meters.

73, Chas

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[tomb18]

Or you can buy the stripper from DX engineering and two twists gives a perfectly stripped cable (no affiliation here)





-------- Original message --------
From: Dale Putnam <[hidden email]>
Date: 12/11/2013  16:11  (GMT-05:00)
To: [hidden email],[hidden email]
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] OT: Installing PL-259's
 
A very sharp knife, steady hands, and the method of cut, remedies that problem.FIrst, cut around the coax and the measured length from the end... being exactly how much TOTALvinyl needed off (full length of PL259 with tip included). Then, measure from the cut, using the PL-259 to just past the holes, mark the vinyl. Drop the PL259, then cut through the copper braid and vinyl,NOT the center insulator, yet, after making the full circle around the coax, peel off the vinyl and braid, of the outer end... leave the last cutof vinyl still on... inspect Closely that there isn't any left over braid... Then cut just a 1/16 of an inch towards the end but through the entire center insulator, but DO NOT nick the center conductor. Now, you have only the braid that will be showing under the holes, left covered with vinyl.but it is slit lengthwise already. And the center is sticking out bare.   Two options.. tin the braid.. or not. Either way will work.. the key to tinning .. is DO NOT use m
uch solder.. and be careful with the heat to not melt the center insulator. OR after peeling the vinyl off.. screw the coax into the pl259, snugged up so the center insulator is tight against thePL259. Then.. with either method.. using high heat for a short amount of time.. flow solder through the holes.. this can NOT be done aceptable withthe small Weller gun. It can with the 550. AFTER the solder is flowed on the braid... inspect the center conductor, that the center insulation has notmelted a flowed out of the center pin.. knowing that care of the heating was done, flow solder into the center pin, and solder the center conductor to the pin. Screw on the shell.. OH CRAP.. no WAIT.. slide shell on from far end.. twice.. cause it went on backwards the first time.. and because it is a 200 foot run, take a break for coffee... then, go do the other end.. but remember.. shell first.. because you just finished the first end.
Have a great day,


--...   ...--
Dale - WC7S in Wy



> But just removing the insulating sheath allows the
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