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Solder wick? Dick, K6KR From:
[hidden email] [mailto:[hidden email]] On
Behalf Of Lee Buller
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In reply to this post by k0wa@swbell.net
Hi Lee,
Man I hate when that happens... solder wick works well, but can you find that when you need it? A drill might, but that has so really poor happenings, and opens the door real wide for our good friend(?) Murphy, with the least problem to be a loosened hole through, the worst being a messed up board. How about air? heated the hole, blowing a can of compressed air through? Another thought would be, stripping the braid out of the smallest coax you have handy, two or three inches to start with, wiping flux on the stripped out shield, and use that for solder wick...? Or.. simply heating the hole, then sliding in a stranded wire, through the hole... a "fur piece" then either cutting the wire off, and pulling it out... or continue to heat the hole and draw the wire through until it is clean. Obviously this requires a proper sized wire.. but then you have a few other holes to size the wire with. Good Luck, and remember... it isn't the speed that accomplishes the task.... it is the lack of returning to fix it again that makes it a good repair. --... ...-- Dale - WC7S in Wy Date: Mon, 29 Dec 2008 19:07:12 -0800 From: [hidden email] To: [hidden email] Subject: [Elecraft] OT Slightly: PC Board Recovery -Plated Through Holes
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In reply to this post by k0wa@swbell.net
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In reply to this post by k0wa@swbell.net
Lee:
Besides using solder wick (available at Radio Shack, I think), you can use a needle to clear out the hole. Solder doesn't seem to stick to needles very well. Just heat the needle near the point while trying to push it into the hole. Usually works like a charm. 73's, John AA0VE Lee Buller wrote: > > > I was putting together a kit this evening (non Elecraft) and > discovered I was using the wrong instruction sheet version to the > parts and board I was using. (Always check your parts before > beginning - which I did not) I had to putt about 10 resistors of the > board. They are plated through holes. I did not have a vacuum > desoldering station...so I have to think of somethingto get the solder > out of the holes. A small drill? Anyone has some comments? > > Lee Buller - K0WA > "Embarrased to say the least" > > Elecraft mailing list Post to: [hidden email] You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com |
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In reply to this post by AC7AC
I first use a bit of solder wick to clean up the excess solder on both
sides. This usually leaves a bit of recessed solder in the plated through hole. I then use a stainless steel T-pin heated with a soldering iron and held with a pair of needle nose pliers to press through the hole. Once it is through I remove the iron and after it cools a bit I give the Tpin a twist and gently remove it while twisting back and forth. It's always worked so far on too many holes to count. 73 jim ab3cv _______________________________________________ Elecraft mailing list Post to: [hidden email] You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com |
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In reply to this post by k0wa@swbell.net
----- Original Message ----- From: "Lee Buller" <[hidden email]> To: "Elecraft Reflector" <[hidden email]> Sent: Monday, December 29, 2008 10:07 PM Subject: [Elecraft] OT Slightly: PC Board Recovery -Plated Through Holes I was putting together a kit this evening (non Elecraft) and discovered I was using the wrong instruction sheet version to the parts and board I was using. (Always check your parts before beginning - which I did not) I had to putt about 10 resistors of the board. They are plated through holes. I did not have a vacuum desoldering station...so I have to think of somethingto get the solder out of the holes. A small drill? Anyone has some comments? Lee Buller - K0WA "Embarrased to say the least" Howdy Lee: If you don't have good solder wick then try using a stainless steel sewing needle. I've used a sewing needle many times and it works great...heat the pad and stick the needle down thru the hole while the solder is melting. The needle will push the solder out the other side where you can clip off the excess and clean the remainder up with solder wick....the needle, being stainless steel, won't adhere to the solder so it will just pull right back out of the hole. Best of luck in getting your board cleaned up. 73, Joe W2KJ I QRP, therefore I am _______________________________________________ Elecraft mailing list Post to: [hidden email] You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com |
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In reply to this post by k0wa@swbell.net
When all I have available is a hot soldering iron I have had
good luck removing solder from plated through holes by heating the solder and
then lightly banging the PCB on the bench to “accelerate” the
molten solder from the hole. Of course, the PCB has to be able to withstand
the shock and that’s a call you have to make. It works best with
small PCBs. Solder wick works best if you add a bit of flux to the wick
(or to the solder on the pad) prior to wicking the molten solder from the PCB. It
helps the solder migrate into the wick. If you do not have solder wick
available, you can use the copper shield braid from coax! Solder wick is
denser and generally superior to coax braid but the braid works in a pinch. There are pneumatic devices of all kinds that will pull
molten solder from PCBs but their tips often clog and slow the process. The
spring-loaded versions “jump” when you pull the trigger and often sprinkle
the PCB with tiny balls of solder. The tiny spheres are the cooled result of
previous solder extractions. You have to empty the device frequently to limit
the mess it causes. It has been my experience that solder wick is the most convenient
for small solder joints. When more heat is needed then a spring-loaded pneumatic
device is preferred followed by a solder wick (and flux) cleanup. And
have liquid of past flux available to assist solder flow. Cleaning the finished area with isopropyl alcohol and a
small brush is a good way to remove leftover flux. I found a handy
plastic bottle with a flip top and small dish area that fills with
alcohol when you press the dish several times to pump alcohol from the bottle
into the dish. I found it at DigiKey. It is made by “Techni-Tool”.
I am not affiliated with either of these companies. Rick KC0OV K3 125 _______________________________________________ Elecraft mailing list Post to: [hidden email] You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com |
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