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OT: Whole House Generator - Update

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Doug Hensley

OT: Whole House Generator - Update

Someone on the list suggested we post a summary of private responses to us as an alternative, I'm guessing, to members not knowing what was said. In my case, the results don't lend themselves to a simple summary so I am sending this as a fair response to what I learned:

1. I'm quite surprised by the many respondents with homes over 2500 sq feet running satisfactorily off generators under 10 KW with several as low as 5 & 5.5 KW. One 3300 sq ft home was happy on 7 KW. Generator size ranged as you would expect from the portable Honda to the stationary GENERAC & KOHLER units. Natural gas as a fuel choice got the most recommendations. The overall lesson seems to be to "know your load" and buy what you need, not what you want.

2. I'm was pleased to hear K3, K3S & KX3 owners consistently reporting whatever hash their units were producing had no ill effects on their Elecraft radios during the period their generator was running. One engineer measured his no frills stationary generator as having about 4% THD. Most reported only the audible noise from their generator was noticeable while it was running (I suppose like a lawn mower doing the lawn outside).
3. No one reported having a GENERAC Syntergy unit.
4. The 1800 RPM Kohler was recommended the most over the more prevalent & cheaper 3600 RPM units.
5. Finally, most people were in favor of an automatic transfer switch for the whole house with installation done by a proper electrician.

Sorry I can't give any more specifics. The reports of Elecraft working nicely with or without the generator running was refreshing. Thanks to all who responded.

Doug W5JV

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Charlie T, K3ICH

Re: OT: Whole House Generator - Update

It's Generac "Synergy" not syntergy
And yes, they just came out with them as their own version of the inverter
type generator.
I've only seen it listed on a few of their dealers so far.

There's nothing magic about wiring a transfer switch. In the larger systems
of about 7 - 8 kW and higher, think of it as a remote sub-panel that might
for example, be in a garage and fed out of your main house panel through an
appropriate sized breaker, but with a two way switch for the Line In that
selects either the line from the main panel or, the generator.
This applies whether it is manually operated or fully automatic.
All the control switching logic comes from the manufacturers circuitry.

The whole idea is to NEVER permit your generator output finding its way out
to your main feeders. (You could electrocute a Lineman working on what he
thinks is a dead line. That pole-pig outside works both ways. You apply
240 V on your side and there is 7½ or higher kV on that deadly wire!)
Unless there is a massive failure in the switch itself, this can never
happen. Most of the ones I've seen are WAY overrated for just that sort of
safety margin. My panel came with a 15 kW generator, but has a 200 Amp
transfer switch. The commercial power input is completely dis-connected
from the generator much the same way as a DPDT switch's outer contacts never
touch.

In some of the smaller transfer panels, each house circuit has its own two
way switch such that you have to manually switch it from mains to generator
and back when the juice comes back on. This works fine too and isolates the
generator output.

73, Charlie k3ICH

-----Original Message-----
From: [hidden email]
[mailto:[hidden email]] On Behalf Of Doug Hensley
Sent: Saturday, September 09, 2017 1:44 PM
To: Elecraft List <[hidden email]>
Subject: [Elecraft] OT: Whole House Generator - Update

Someone on the list suggested we post a summary of private responses to us
as an alternative, I'm guessing, to members not knowing what was said. In
my case, the results don't lend themselves to a simple summary so I am
sending this as a fair response to what I learned:

1. I'm quite surprised by the many respondents with homes over 2500 sq
feet running satisfactorily off generators under 10 KW with several as low
as 5 & 5.5 KW. One 3300 sq ft home was happy on 7 KW. Generator size
ranged as you would expect from the portable Honda to the stationary GENERAC
& KOHLER units. Natural gas as a fuel choice got the most recommendations.
The overall lesson seems to be to "know your load" and buy what you need,
not what you want.

2. I'm was pleased to hear K3, K3S & KX3 owners consistently reporting
whatever hash their units were producing had no ill effects on their
Elecraft radios during the period their generator was running. One engineer
measured his no frills stationary generator as having about 4% THD. Most
reported only the audible noise from their generator was noticeable while it
was running (I suppose like a lawn mower doing the lawn outside).
3. No one reported having a GENERAC Syntergy unit.
4. The 1800 RPM Kohler was recommended the most over the more prevalent
& cheaper 3600 RPM units.
5. Finally, most people were in favor of an automatic transfer switch
for the whole house with installation done by a proper electrician.

Sorry I can't give any more specifics. The reports of Elecraft working
nicely with or without the generator running was refreshing. Thanks to all
who responded.

Doug W5JV

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Dr. William J. Schmidt, II

Re: OT: Whole House Generator - Update

Well there can be a little more to it. With the larger systems there is phasing circuitry (in the generator or the transfer switch: i have both) to detect and switch at zero cross-over point for "bumpless" transfer of power. Causes the least amount of surge and damage.

Dr. William J. Schmidt - K9HZ J68HZ 8P6HK ZF2HZ PJ4/K9HZ VP5/K9HZ PJ2/K9HZ

Owner - Operator
Big Signal Ranch – K9ZC
Staunton, Illinois

Owner – Operator
Villa Grand Piton - J68HZ
Soufriere, St. Lucia W.I.
Rent it: www.VillaGrandPiton.com

email: [hidden email]

> On Sep 9, 2017, at 2:36 PM, Charlie T, K3ICH <[hidden email]> wrote:
>
> It's Generac "Synergy" not syntergy
> And yes, they just came out with them as their own version of the inverter
> type generator.
> I've only seen it listed on a few of their dealers so far.
>
> There's nothing magic about wiring a transfer switch. In the larger systems
> of about 7 - 8 kW and higher, think of it as a remote sub-panel that might
> for example, be in a garage and fed out of your main house panel through an
> appropriate sized breaker, but with a two way switch for the Line In that
> selects either the line from the main panel or, the generator.
> This applies whether it is manually operated or fully automatic.
> All the control switching logic comes from the manufacturers circuitry.
>
> The whole idea is to NEVER permit your generator output finding its way out
> to your main feeders. (You could electrocute a Lineman working on what he
> thinks is a dead line. That pole-pig outside works both ways. You apply
> 240 V on your side and there is 7½ or higher kV on that deadly wire!)
> Unless there is a massive failure in the switch itself, this can never
> happen. Most of the ones I've seen are WAY overrated for just that sort of
> safety margin. My panel came with a 15 kW generator, but has a 200 Amp
> transfer switch. The commercial power input is completely dis-connected
> from the generator much the same way as a DPDT switch's outer contacts never
> touch.
>
> In some of the smaller transfer panels, each house circuit has its own two
> way switch such that you have to manually switch it from mains to generator
> and back when the juice comes back on. This works fine too and isolates the
> generator output.
>
> 73, Charlie k3ICH
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: [hidden email]
> [mailto:[hidden email]] On Behalf Of Doug Hensley
> Sent: Saturday, September 09, 2017 1:44 PM
> To: Elecraft List <[hidden email]>
> Subject: [Elecraft] OT: Whole House Generator - Update
>
> Someone on the list suggested we post a summary of private responses to us
> as an alternative, I'm guessing, to members not knowing what was said. In

NK7Z

Re: OT: Whole House Generator - Update

In reply to this post by Charlie T, K3ICH

I solved this issue by changing out the power feeds to both my gas
heater, and gas hot water heater with AC line pigtails.

I just unplug the two devices from the AC mains, and plug them into the
generator output lines. I changed my stove to gas, so when there is a
power fail, I run everything from a Honda UE2000i... Heat, showers, and
food... We had a 6 day power fail last winter, and we were the only
ones in the area with power... Ran the EU2000i for 6 days straight.

Changed oil, etc., and we are ready again...

I built a full kit for the generator with an extended gas tank.

73s and thanks,
Dave
NK7Z
http://www.nk7z.net

On 09/09/2017 11:36 AM, Charlie T, K3ICH wrote:

> It's Generac "Synergy" not syntergy
> And yes, they just came out with them as their own version of the inverter
> type generator.
> I've only seen it listed on a few of their dealers so far.
>
> There's nothing magic about wiring a transfer switch. In the larger systems
> of about 7 - 8 kW and higher, think of it as a remote sub-panel that might
> for example, be in a garage and fed out of your main house panel through an
> appropriate sized breaker, but with a two way switch for the Line In that
> selects either the line from the main panel or, the generator.
> This applies whether it is manually operated or fully automatic.
> All the control switching logic comes from the manufacturers circuitry.
>
> The whole idea is to NEVER permit your generator output finding its way out
> to your main feeders. (You could electrocute a Lineman working on what he
> thinks is a dead line. That pole-pig outside works both ways. You apply
> 240 V on your side and there is 7½ or higher kV on that deadly wire!)
> Unless there is a massive failure in the switch itself, this can never
> happen. Most of the ones I've seen are WAY overrated for just that sort of
> safety margin. My panel came with a 15 kW generator, but has a 200 Amp
> transfer switch. The commercial power input is completely dis-connected
> from the generator much the same way as a DPDT switch's outer contacts never
> touch.
>
> In some of the smaller transfer panels, each house circuit has its own two
> way switch such that you have to manually switch it from mains to generator
> and back when the juice comes back on. This works fine too and isolates the
> generator output.
>
> 73, Charlie k3ICH
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: [hidden email]
> [mailto:[hidden email]] On Behalf Of Doug Hensley
> Sent: Saturday, September 09, 2017 1:44 PM
> To: Elecraft List <[hidden email]>
> Subject: [Elecraft] OT: Whole House Generator - Update
>
> Someone on the list suggested we post a summary of private responses to us
> as an alternative, I'm guessing, to members not knowing what was said. In
> my case, the results don't lend themselves to a simple summary so I am
> sending this as a fair response to what I learned:
>
>
> 1. I'm quite surprised by the many respondents with homes over 2500 sq
> feet running satisfactorily off generators under 10 KW with several as low
> as 5 & 5.5 KW. One 3300 sq ft home was happy on 7 KW. Generator size
> ranged as you would expect from the portable Honda to the stationary GENERAC
> & KOHLER units. Natural gas as a fuel choice got the most recommendations.
> The overall lesson seems to be to "know your load" and buy what you need,
> not what you want.
>
> 2. I'm was pleased to hear K3, K3S & KX3 owners consistently reporting
> whatever hash their units were producing had no ill effects on their
> Elecraft radios during the period their generator was running. One engineer
> measured his no frills stationary generator as having about 4% THD. Most
> reported only the audible noise from their generator was noticeable while it
> was running (I suppose like a lawn mower doing the lawn outside).
> 3. No one reported having a GENERAC Syntergy unit.
> 4. The 1800 RPM Kohler was recommended the most over the more prevalent
> & cheaper 3600 RPM units.
> 5. Finally, most people were in favor of an automatic transfer switch
> for the whole house with installation done by a proper electrician.
>
>
> Sorry I can't give any more specifics. The reports of Elecraft working
> nicely with or without the generator running was refreshing. Thanks to all
> who responded.
>
>
> Doug W5JV
>
>
>
>
>
>
> ______________________________________________________________
> Elecraft mailing list
> Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft
> Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm
> Post: mailto:[hidden email]
>
> This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net
> Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html Message
> delivered to [hidden email]
>
> ______________________________________________________________
> Elecraft mailing list
> Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft
> Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm
> Post: mailto:[hidden email]
>
> This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net
> Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
> Message delivered to [hidden email]
>

Mark Stennett

Re: OT: Whole House Generator - Update

In reply to this post by Dr. William J. Schmidt, II

Don’t forget break before make transfer switches. These provide for complete disconnect from one feed for a brief period before connecting to the other.

73 de na6m

On 9/9/17, 2:02 PM, "Dr. William J. Schmidt" <[hidden email] on behalf of [hidden email]> wrote:

Well there can be a little more to it. With the larger systems there is phasing circuitry (in the generator or the transfer switch: i have both) to detect and switch at zero cross-over point for "bumpless" transfer of power. Causes the least amount of surge and damage.

Dr. William J. Schmidt - K9HZ J68HZ 8P6HK ZF2HZ PJ4/K9HZ VP5/K9HZ PJ2/K9HZ

Owner - Operator
Big Signal Ranch – K9ZC
Staunton, Illinois

Owner – Operator
Villa Grand Piton - J68HZ
Soufriere, St. Lucia W.I.
Rent it: www.VillaGrandPiton.com

email: [hidden email]

> On Sep 9, 2017, at 2:36 PM, Charlie T, K3ICH <[hidden email]> wrote:
>
> It's Generac "Synergy" not syntergy
> And yes, they just came out with them as their own version of the inverter
> type generator.
> I've only seen it listed on a few of their dealers so far.
>
> There's nothing magic about wiring a transfer switch. In the larger systems
> of about 7 - 8 kW and higher, think of it as a remote sub-panel that might
> for example, be in a garage and fed out of your main house panel through an
> appropriate sized breaker, but with a two way switch for the Line In that
> selects either the line from the main panel or, the generator.
> This applies whether it is manually operated or fully automatic.
> All the control switching logic comes from the manufacturers circuitry.
>
> The whole idea is to NEVER permit your generator output finding its way out
> to your main feeders. (You could electrocute a Lineman working on what he
> thinks is a dead line. That pole-pig outside works both ways. You apply
> 240 V on your side and there is 7½ or higher kV on that deadly wire!)
> Unless there is a massive failure in the switch itself, this can never
> happen. Most of the ones I've seen are WAY overrated for just that sort of
> safety margin. My panel came with a 15 kW generator, but has a 200 Amp
> transfer switch. The commercial power input is completely dis-connected
> from the generator much the same way as a DPDT switch's outer contacts never
> touch.
>
> In some of the smaller transfer panels, each house circuit has its own two
> way switch such that you have to manually switch it from mains to generator
> and back when the juice comes back on. This works fine too and isolates the
> generator output.
>
> 73, Charlie k3ICH
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: [hidden email]
> [mailto:[hidden email]] On Behalf Of Doug Hensley
> Sent: Saturday, September 09, 2017 1:44 PM
> To: Elecraft List <[hidden email]>
> Subject: [Elecraft] OT: Whole House Generator - Update
>
> Someone on the list suggested we post a summary of private responses to us
> as an alternative, I'm guessing, to members not knowing what was said. In
______________________________________________________________
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Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm
Post: mailto:[hidden email]

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Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Message delivered to [hidden email]

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Post: mailto:[hidden email]

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Ed Pflueger

Re: OT: Whole House Generator - Update

In reply to this post by NK7Z

I have a 20KW Generac here at the house and a 22KW Generac at the farm both with AUTO-transfer switches. The 20KW here at the house is Natural Gas and the one at the farm is Propane. I have noticed no issues at either location concerning radio gear.

Ed.. AB4IQ

-----Original Message-----
From: [hidden email] [mailto:[hidden email]] On Behalf Of Dave Cole
Sent: Saturday, September 09, 2017 2:12 PM
To: [hidden email]
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] OT: Whole House Generator - Update

I solved this issue by changing out the power feeds to both my gas heater, and gas hot water heater with AC line pigtails.

I just unplug the two devices from the AC mains, and plug them into the generator output lines. I changed my stove to gas, so when there is a power fail, I run everything from a Honda UE2000i... Heat, showers, and food... We had a 6 day power fail last winter, and we were the only ones in the area with power... Ran the EU2000i for 6 days straight.

Changed oil, etc., and we are ready again...

I built a full kit for the generator with an extended gas tank.

73s and thanks,
Dave
NK7Z
http://www.nk7z.net

On 09/09/2017 11:36 AM, Charlie T, K3ICH wrote:

> It's Generac "Synergy" not syntergy
> And yes, they just came out with them as their own version of the
> inverter type generator.
> I've only seen it listed on a few of their dealers so far.
>
> There's nothing magic about wiring a transfer switch. In the larger
> systems of about 7 - 8 kW and higher, think of it as a remote
> sub-panel that might for example, be in a garage and fed out of your
> main house panel through an appropriate sized breaker, but with a two
> way switch for the Line In that selects either the line from the main panel or, the generator.
> This applies whether it is manually operated or fully automatic.
> All the control switching logic comes from the manufacturers circuitry.
>
> The whole idea is to NEVER permit your generator output finding its
> way out to your main feeders. (You could electrocute a Lineman working
> on what he thinks is a dead line. That pole-pig outside works both
> ways. You apply
> 240 V on your side and there is 7½ or higher kV on that deadly wire!)
> Unless there is a massive failure in the switch itself, this can never
> happen. Most of the ones I've seen are WAY overrated for just that
> sort of safety margin. My panel came with a 15 kW generator, but has
> a 200 Amp transfer switch. The commercial power input is completely
> dis-connected from the generator much the same way as a DPDT switch's
> outer contacts never touch.
>
> In some of the smaller transfer panels, each house circuit has its own
> two way switch such that you have to manually switch it from mains to
> generator and back when the juice comes back on. This works fine too
> and isolates the generator output.
>
> 73, Charlie k3ICH
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: [hidden email]
> [mailto:[hidden email]] On Behalf Of Doug Hensley
> Sent: Saturday, September 09, 2017 1:44 PM
> To: Elecraft List <[hidden email]>
> Subject: [Elecraft] OT: Whole House Generator - Update
>
> Someone on the list suggested we post a summary of private responses to us
> as an alternative, I'm guessing, to members not knowing what was said. In
> my case, the results don't lend themselves to a simple summary so I am
> sending this as a fair response to what I learned:
>
>
> 1. I'm quite surprised by the many respondents with homes over 2500 sq
> feet running satisfactorily off generators under 10 KW with several as low
> as 5 & 5.5 KW. One 3300 sq ft home was happy on 7 KW. Generator size
> ranged as you would expect from the portable Honda to the stationary
> GENERAC & KOHLER units. Natural gas as a fuel choice got the most recommendations.
> The overall lesson seems to be to "know your load" and buy what you
> need, not what you want.
>
> 2. I'm was pleased to hear K3, K3S & KX3 owners consistently reporting
> whatever hash their units were producing had no ill effects on their
> Elecraft radios during the period their generator was running. One engineer
> measured his no frills stationary generator as having about 4% THD. Most
> reported only the audible noise from their generator was noticeable
> while it was running (I suppose like a lawn mower doing the lawn outside).
> 3. No one reported having a GENERAC Syntergy unit.
> 4. The 1800 RPM Kohler was recommended the most over the more prevalent
> & cheaper 3600 RPM units.
> 5. Finally, most people were in favor of an automatic transfer switch
> for the whole house with installation done by a proper electrician.
>
>
> Sorry I can't give any more specifics. The reports of Elecraft
> working nicely with or without the generator running was refreshing.
> Thanks to all who responded.
>
>
> Doug W5JV
>
>
>
>
>
>
> ______________________________________________________________
> Elecraft mailing list
> Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft
> Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm
> Post: mailto:[hidden email]
>
> This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email
> list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html Message delivered to
> [hidden email]
>
> ______________________________________________________________
> Elecraft mailing list
> Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft
> Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm
> Post: mailto:[hidden email]
>
> This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email
> list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html Message delivered to
> [hidden email]
>

______________________________________________________________
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Jim Brown-10

Re: OT: Whole House Generator - Update

In reply to this post by Doug Hensley

On 9/9/2017 10:43 AM, Doug Hensley wrote:
> I'm was pleased to hear K3, K3S & KX3 owners consistently reporting whatever hash their units were producing had no ill effects on their Elecraft radios during the period their generator was running.

It is quite common for generators to produce RF noise that radiates on
power wiring and is received by nearby antennas. The solutions are 1)
bonding the frame of the generator to the house ground with short, fat
copper and/or 2) a serious multi-turn ferrite common mode choke on the
cable from the generator output, as close to the generator as possible.
Obviously, proper bonding of all grounds is critical to #1 working.

Square footage of a home affects the electrical load ONLY if the
generator must run HVAC an system, and the load of that system is likely
to be MUCH greater than everything else put together, except a well
motor. A larger generator is likely to put out more RFI and be more
difficult to suppress.

73, Jim K9YC

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Richard Fjeld-2

Re: OT: Whole House Generator - Update

In reply to this post by Charlie T, K3ICH

Charlie,
The bottom paragraph of your post caught my eye.

Transfer switch type can depend upon a generator’s locale. I have seen outdoor generators hard packed with snow internally. I feel better about examining things before start-up. So for home use, I favor manual control.

With a manual switch, it is nice not to have the whole AC panel transferred to generator so that it can be known when the commercial power is restored.

On the lighter side, I have a 350 watt peak AC Honda generator with a 12 volt 6 amp DC output. I won’t part with it. It is the size of a large lunch bucket. There isn’t room enough to tell how handy it has been.

Rich, n0ce

From: Charlie T, K3ICH<mailto:[hidden email]>
Sent: Saturday, September 9, 2017 1:37 PM
To: [hidden email]<mailto:[hidden email]>
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] OT: Whole House Generator - Update

(snipped some)

In some of the smaller transfer panels, each house circuit has its own two
way switch such that you have to manually switch it from mains to generator
and back when the juice comes back on. This works fine too and isolates the
generator output.

73, Charlie k3ICH

______________________________________________________________
Elecraft mailing list
Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft
Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm
Post: mailto:[hidden email]

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Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Message delivered to [hidden email]

Elecraft mailing list

Re: OT: Whole House Generator - Update

Yes, Mine is a manual transfer at the mains, I have a night lite on the commercial side to tell me their power is back on.....
Mel, K6KBE

From: Richard Fjeld <[hidden email]>
To: "Charlie T, K3ICH" <[hidden email]>; "[hidden email]" <[hidden email]>
Sent: Saturday, September 9, 2017 2:53 PM
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] OT: Whole House Generator - Update

Charlie,
The bottom paragraph of your post caught my eye.

Transfer switch type can depend upon a generator’s locale. I have seen outdoor generators hard packed with snow internally. I feel better about examining things before start-up. So for home use, I favor manual control.

With a manual switch, it is nice not to have the whole AC panel transferred to generator so that it can be known when the commercial power is restored.

On the lighter side, I have a 350 watt peak AC Honda generator with a 12 volt 6 amp DC output. I won’t part with it. It is the size of a large lunch bucket. There isn’t room enough to tell how handy it has been.

Rich, n0ce

From: Charlie T, K3ICH<mailto:[hidden email]>
Sent: Saturday, September 9, 2017 1:37 PM
To: [hidden email]<mailto:[hidden email]>
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] OT: Whole House Generator - Update

(snipped some)

In some of the smaller transfer panels, each house circuit has its own two
way switch such that you have to manually switch it from mains to generator
and back when the juice comes back on. This works fine too and isolates the
generator output.

73, Charlie k3ICH

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KEN-3

Re: OT: Whole House Generator - Update

In reply to this post by Doug Hensley

Here I am running the house with a 3000 watt Honda. We use wood heat
primarily so the furnace is no issue. I don't worry about the water
heater or kitchen stove. The microwave is on the transfer switch. The
transfer switch is a manually operated with a dozen circuits.

Ken WA8JXM

On 9/9/17 1:43 PM, Doug Hensley wrote:
> I'm quite surprised by the many respondents with homes over 2500 sq feet running satisfactorily off generators under 10 KW with several as low as 5 & 5.5 KW. One 3300 sq ft home was happy on 7 KW. Generator size ranged as you would expect from the portable Honda to the stationary GENERAC & KOHLER units.

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NK7Z

Re: OT: Whole House Generator - Update

In reply to this post by Jim Brown-10

I switched to gas, and mu bill went from around 200 bucks a month for
electric to about 80 in winter... Also my Honda eu2000i now runs the
heater.

73s and thanks,
Dave
NK7Z
http://www.nk7z.net

On 09/09/2017 03:00 PM, Ron D'Eau Claire wrote:

> Perhaps it is saying the obvious, but when considering the power
> requirements of a home determine how it is heated. Here in Oregon, in the
> land served by the Bonneville Hydroelectric dam, a great many homes like
> mine are heated electrically. We have a forced air system that employs 3
> electric "burners" each drawing 60 amps at 240 vac - more than 43 kW for the
> furnace alone. Of course, on startup they draw far more than that for the
> first minute until the coils get hot, so a sequencer brings each "burner" on
> line one at a time over a period of a few minutes. On cold winter mornings
> it's not unusual to see the mains voltage sag from 125 to 118 or less even
> if we don't have the furnace running, thanks to all the other electric
> furnaces in the neighborhood.
>
> 73, Ron AC7AC
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: [hidden email]
> [mailto:[hidden email]] On Behalf Of Jim Brown
> Sent: Saturday, September 9, 2017 2:16 PM
> To: [hidden email]
> Subject: Re: [Elecraft] OT: Whole House Generator - Update
>
> On 9/9/2017 10:43 AM, Doug Hensley wrote:
>> I'm was pleased to hear K3, K3S & KX3 owners consistently reporting
> whatever hash their units were producing had no ill effects on their
> Elecraft radios during the period their generator was running.
>
> It is quite common for generators to produce RF noise that radiates on power
> wiring and is received by nearby antennas. The solutions are 1) bonding the
> frame of the generator to the house ground with short, fat copper and/or 2)
> a serious multi-turn ferrite common mode choke on the cable from the
> generator output, as close to the generator as possible.
> Obviously, proper bonding of all grounds is critical to #1 working.
>
> Square footage of a home affects the electrical load ONLY if the generator
> must run HVAC an system, and the load of that system is likely to be MUCH
> greater than everything else put together, except a well motor. A larger
> generator is likely to put out more RFI and be more difficult to suppress.
>
> 73, Jim K9YC
>
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