> My J-38 is about a portable as one can get, since it survived combat
> conditions in WWII!
>
> The important thing is to protect the bearings that allow the lever to move
> up and down, especially on any key that uses "pins" like the J-38. By pins I
> mean the sharpened ends of the metal shafts that sit in a concave cut in the
> ends of the adjustment screws. They can be damaged by hitting the finger pad
> end of the key too hard with a side force.
>
> Still, the J-38's used to be all thrown in large barrels of maybe 100 or so
> keys just tossed in with no protection in the War Surplus stores and darn
> few were injured by the rough handling.
>
> I'd not be afraid to grab my J-38 and throw it in a box of stuff to go to
> the field. If I wanted to be *real* fussy, I might wrap it in a small towel
> first. But, hey, my J-38 is at least 70 years old! It deserves a little
> "senior care"...
>
> BTW, for portability I have my J-38 mounted on a thin piece of hardwood,
> long enough to extend under the finger grip. That way, it sits still and
> firm on most surfaces with no further anchors. It won't tip no matter how
> "heavy" the fist.
>
> Some "modern" straight keys have roller or ball bearings instead of the
> "pins". They're quite robust but pricy (I consider $20 about top dollar for
> a straight key ;-)
>
> 73,
>
> Ron AC7AC
>
>
> On Jul 27, 2009, at 9:44 PM, Frank MacDonell wrote:
>
>
>> Thanks to all in advance. This reflector is fabulous. Can someone
>> recommend a portable straight key for use in the field. Thanks.
>>
>> --
>> Frank KD8FIP
>>
>
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portable key. I've used them in a moving jeeps and duce and a half's
Locked
