Power pole for K3?
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I have seen a lot of talk about the power pole connectors. Am I right in assuming that I will get a new power cord with my K3? I will be using an Astron 70A supply - a bit of over kill, but I currently run 2 TS-850S on it now. I also have 4 group 29 deep cycle batteries for backup with 2 80 watt solar panels and a charger controller. Ordered in Jnauary - getting antsy! 73, Bill N4ZI Munford, TN ____________________________________________________________________________________ Be a better friend, newshound, and know-it-all with Yahoo! Mobile. Try it now. http://mobile.yahoo.com/;_ylt=Ahu06i62sR8HDtDypao8Wcj9tAcJ _______________________________________________ Elecraft mailing list Post to: [hidden email] You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com |
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Bill,
Yes, the power cord parts are included with the K3 kit. This is one item that will require your soldering iron unless you have a good (ratcheting type) crimper for the Anderson PowerPole connectors and know how to properly crimp the connectors. 73, Don W3FPR Bill Maddock wrote: > I have seen a lot of talk about the power pole connectors. Am > I right in assuming that I will get a new power cord with my K3? > I will be using an Astron 70A supply - a bit of over kill, but I > currently run 2 TS-850S on it now. I also have 4 group 29 deep cycle > batteries for backup with 2 80 watt solar panels and a charger > controller. Ordered in Jnauary - getting antsy! > > 73, > > Bill N4ZI Munford, TN > > > ____________________________________________________________________________________ > Be a better friend, newshound, and > know-it-all with Yahoo! Mobile. Try it now. http://mobile.yahoo.com/;_ylt=Ahu06i62sR8HDtDypao8Wcj9tAcJ > _______________________________________________ > Elecraft mailing list > Post to: [hidden email] > You must be a subscriber to post to the list. > Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): > http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft > > Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm > Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com > > > Elecraft mailing list Post to: [hidden email] You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com |
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Lisa tells me that if you ask, you can actually buy the ready-made cable
from Elecraft at $10. In my honest opinion you are well advised to order this with your kit. If you order the ready-built K3, this is what you get. David G3UNA > Bill, > > Yes, the power cord parts are included with the K3 kit. This is one item > that will require your soldering iron unless you have a good (ratcheting > type) crimper for the Anderson PowerPole connectors and know how to > properly crimp the connectors. > > 73, > Don W3FPR > > Bill Maddock wrote: >> I have seen a lot of talk about the power pole connectors. Am >> I right in assuming that I will get a new power cord with my K3? >> I will be using an Astron 70A supply - a bit of over kill, but I >> currently run 2 TS-850S on it now. I also have 4 group 29 deep cycle >> batteries for backup with 2 80 watt solar panels and a charger >> controller. Ordered in Jnauary - getting antsy! >> >> 73, >> >> Bill N4ZI Munford, TN >> _______________________________________________ Elecraft mailing list Post to: [hidden email] You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com |
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David Cutter wrote:
>> Yes, the power cord parts are included with the K3 kit. This is one >>item that will require your soldering iron unless you have a good >>(ratcheting type) crimper for the Anderson PowerPole connectors and >>know how to properly crimp the connectors. >> >> 73, >> Don W3FPR >> >Lisa tells me that if you ask, you can actually buy the ready-made >cable from Elecraft at $10. In my honest opinion you are well advised >to order this with your kit. If you order the ready-built K3, this is >what you get. > It needs more than just "a" ratchet crimper - it has to be a hexagon crimper of exactly the right size. Otherwise it's out with the soldering iron, or pony up your $10. -- 73 from Ian GM3SEK http://www.ifwtech.co.uk/g3sek _______________________________________________ Elecraft mailing list Post to: [hidden email] You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com |
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On Sat, 19 Apr 2008 07:06:27 +0100, you wrote:
[snip] >It needs more than just "a" ratchet crimper - it has to be a hexagon >crimper of exactly the right size. Otherwise it's out with the soldering >iron, or pony up your $10. I'm not sure what you mean by "hexagon". The crimping dies I have (purchased from West Mountain) are not hexagon shaped at all. They are round with a raised section that pushes the connector into the wire by making a dimple in the connector sleeve. Tom, N5GE - SWOT 3537 - Grid EM12jq "They that can give up essential liberty to obtain a little temporary safety deserve neither liberty nor safety." --Benjamin Franklin 1775 Support the entire Constitution, not just the parts you like. http://www.n5ge.com http://www.eQSL.cc/Member.cfm?N5GE _______________________________________________ Elecraft mailing list Post to: [hidden email] You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Amateur Radio Operator N5GE
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In reply to this post by gm3sek
Just solder them. Crimping is a bad idea unless you have EXACTLY the right tool.
Mike
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In reply to this post by N5GE
Tom Childers, N5GE wrote:
>On Sat, 19 Apr 2008 07:06:27 +0100, you wrote: > >[snip] >>It needs more than just "a" ratchet crimper - it has to be a hexagon >>crimper of exactly the right size. Otherwise it's out with the soldering >>iron, or pony up your $10. > >I'm not sure what you mean by "hexagon". Like the West Mountain 04 and 05 accessory dies - a hex crimp squeezes the terminal inward onto the cable from six sides. > The crimping dies I have (purchased >from West Mountain) are not hexagon shaped at all. They are round with >a raised >section that pushes the connector into the wire by making a dimple in the >connector sleeve. The photo on the West Mountain website doesn't show this clearly, but the sketches on the Anderson website suggest four inward dimples - is that right? Sorry I was being too restrictive about the types of crimps that will work with APPs. The point I was trying to make was that many of the most common kinds of crimpers will not work, because they squeeze the terminal out sideways, and then it won't fit into the housing. -- 73 from Ian GM3SEK http://www.ifwtech.co.uk/g3sek _______________________________________________ Elecraft mailing list Post to: [hidden email] You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com |
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In reply to this post by N5GE
Tom,
You are correct - a hexagon shaped crimper die will not adequately crimp the APP barrel unless the wire size is large enough to fit *very* tightly into the barrel, and that is definitely not the normal situation (yes, I have tried it, with dismal failure). The crimping die must both hold the barrel in the proper round shape and depress a dimple into the barrel. BTW, the dimple side must be opposite the surface where the barrel is split to keep from deforming the barrel. The proper tool used improperly will produce poor results - if in doubt, solder the connectors. 73, Don W3FPR Tom Childers, N5GE wrote: > On Sat, 19 Apr 2008 07:06:27 +0100, you wrote: > > [snip] > >> It needs more than just "a" ratchet crimper - it has to be a hexagon >> crimper of exactly the right size. Otherwise it's out with the soldering >> iron, or pony up your $10. >> > > I'm not sure what you mean by "hexagon". The crimping dies I have (purchased > from West Mountain) are not hexagon shaped at all. They are round with a raised > section that pushes the connector into the wire by making a dimple in the > connector sleeve. > > Tom, N5GE - SWOT 3537 - Grid EM12jq > > Elecraft mailing list Post to: [hidden email] You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com |
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In reply to this post by N5GE
Yep, I confirm that.
And we seem to be opening up an old thread again, all this has been cover at least twice before and it available in the archives. -- If you must play, decide on three things at the start: the rules of the game, the stakes, and the quitting time. -Chinese Proverb On 19 Apr 2008, at 12:06, Tom Childers, N5GE wrote: > I'm not sure what you mean by "hexagon". The crimping dies I have > (purchased > from West Mountain) are not hexagon shaped at all. They are round > with a raised > section that pushes the connector into the wire by making a dimple > in the > connector sleeve. _______________________________________________ Elecraft mailing list Post to: [hidden email] You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com |
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On Sat, 19 Apr 2008 13:50:32 +0100, you wrote:
>Yep, I confirm that. >And we seem to be opening up an old thread again, all this has been >cover at least twice before and it available in the archives. I agree. Let's not start that all over again... Tom, N5GE - SWOT 3537 - Grid EM12jq "They that can give up essential liberty to obtain a little temporary safety deserve neither liberty nor safety." --Benjamin Franklin 1775 Support the entire Constitution, not just the parts you like. http://www.n5ge.com http://www.eQSL.cc/Member.cfm?N5GE _______________________________________________ Elecraft mailing list Post to: [hidden email] You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Amateur Radio Operator N5GE
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The only thing not in the archive is that you can buy the ready-made cable
from Elecraft for $10. K3 $2-3000 Cable $10 Ship, tar, ha'porth. David G3UNA On Sat, 19 Apr 2008 13:50:32 +0100, you wrote: >Yep, I confirm that. >And we seem to be opening up an old thread again, all this has been >cover at least twice before and it available in the archives. I agree. Let's not start that all over again... Tom, N5GE - SWOT 3537 - Grid EM12jq _______________________________________________ Elecraft mailing list Post to: [hidden email] You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com |
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In reply to this post by Bill Maddock-2
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In reply to this post by David Cutter
> The only thing not in the archive is that you can buy the > ready-made cable from Elecraft for $10. To make matters easy ... it looks like one could order part number KPCA-F (part number from the cable from the factory assembled K3). 73, ... Joe, W4TV > -----Original Message----- > From: [hidden email] > [mailto:[hidden email]] On Behalf Of David Cutter > Sent: Saturday, April 19, 2008 10:24 AM > To: [hidden email]; Elecraft Reflector > Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Power pole for K3? > > > The only thing not in the archive is that you can buy the > ready-made cable > from Elecraft for $10. > > K3 $2-3000 > Cable $10 > > Ship, tar, ha'porth. > > David > G3UNA > > > > On Sat, 19 Apr 2008 13:50:32 +0100, you wrote: > > >Yep, I confirm that. > >And we seem to be opening up an old thread again, all this has been > >cover at least twice before and it available in the archives. > > I agree. Let's not start that all over again... > Tom, N5GE - SWOT 3537 - Grid EM12jq > > _______________________________________________ > Elecraft mailing list > Post to: [hidden email] > You must be a subscriber to post to the list. > Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): > http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft > > Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm > Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com _______________________________________________ Elecraft mailing list Post to: [hidden email] You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com |
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In reply to this post by AC7AC
Hi Ron
One other precaution I've always used is to ensure that all hot terminals are always female with no exposed metal to accidentally allow a short. I know this is stating the obvious but it may not be to those who are new to this. 73, Bob N6WG ----- Original Message ----- From: "Ron D'Eau Claire" <[hidden email]> To: <[hidden email]> Sent: Saturday, April 19, 2008 8:10 AM Subject: [Elecraft] Dangerous Low Volage (WAS: Power pole for K3?) I see you got plenty of answers about the APPs, Bill. You will need to provide your own suitable connectors for the power supply end of the cable. You mention having high-capacity batteries and a 70-amp Astron supply. It sounds like you have experience with high-current supplies and understand how dangerous they can be, but there are a lot of readers here who may not have that background. I mention it because many Hams think 13.8 VDC is safe to handle. It's *NOT*. It's not the voltage, of course, but the current. A short often produces a flash of molten metal that may continue for a while if the resistance is enough to avoid tripping a breaker or crowbar circuit. It can take off a finger or a hand, or very severely injure a person in an instant should a ring or watch band get across the supply line, immediately transformed by the current into red-hot metal burning its way through flesh. In my days working in the field as an aircraft radio/radar tech I knew some who were missing fingers because they neglected to take off a wedding band when working. It's not a nice way to lose a hand or finger. It's not always quick. It can take a while, with the ring or watch band welded solidly to the terminals by the current as the hot metal eats its way through a finger or wrist. I've seen tempered steel screwdrivers literally explode into a spray of molten metal blobs when dropped across a high-current, low-voltage supply - blobs of molten steel that splatter the face and eyes of the unwary worker not wearing protective gear. Less severe shorts can set wiring, and the shack, on fire in short order, all without opening a breaker or tripping the crowbar protective circuit in the power supply. Even a more moderate 35 Amp supply can start a fire or cause a severe burn under the right conditions. Working on shipboard and aircraft systems using 12 to 28 VDC at high currents, I've learned to treat such supplies with the same respect I do a 3KV high-voltage supply. The concerns and procedures needed to be safe are different, but either a high voltage or a low-voltage, high-current supply is dangerous in its own way. I use soldered-on ring terminals on my Astron supplies that provide large, low-resistance contact areas with the lugs and which cannot be pulled loose without physically breaking the wire, and I make very sure there are no metallic objects (cabinets, connectors, other equipment, etc.) located where they might be accidentally moved and make contact with exposed supply terminals anywhere. And then I make sure the terminals on my power supply (and anywhere else) are carefully covered and insulated from accidental contact, just in case. Ron AC7AC _______________________________________________ Elecraft mailing list Post to: [hidden email] You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com _______________________________________________ Elecraft mailing list Post to: [hidden email] You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com |
Re: Dangerous Low Volage (WAS: Power pole for K3?)
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On Apr 19, 2008, at 10:06 AM, Robert Tellefsen wrote:
> Hi Ron > One other precaution I've always used is to ensure > that all hot terminals are always female with no > exposed metal to accidentally allow a short. I know > this is stating the obvious but it may not be to those > who are new to this. > 73, Bob N6WG > > > > > supply. I made the mistake of attaching the power cable to my Astron 35 supply, first. I didn't lose any body parts but did cause the supply to relay out when I made accidental contact with the aluminum chassis. Not a good idea on TenTecs part, even though I didn't use good sense in not attaching the cable to the rig first. For QRP, I should have used a small inline fuse in the positive cable lead. I do now. I also have changed the jack to K2 style. 73 Rick Dettinger K7MW _______________________________________________ Elecraft mailing list Post to: [hidden email] You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com |
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In reply to this post by Bill Maddock-2
OK, I'm late in throwing in my two cents. I have the Anderson Power Pole
crimper and have used another also that is the correct size and has the proper jaws but it is not a ratcheting type. It is usable but is not as foolproof as the ratcheting type. The Anderson is the "correct" one and applies the proper force, and fits the sleeve and the wire size you are using. If you do not use this type, the wire will be loose or the connector deformed and will not fit or make a secure connection. What I am trying to say is that even IF you buy the Anderson crimper, you are likely to screw up a few of the first ones you try to crimp. Now you have to solder anyway or order some more connectors, not what you want when you are hot to get on the air. My suggestion, unless you have the proper tool and therefore are likely proficient at crimping, is to ORDER the wired set from Elecraft and save yourself the possible problems with first time crimps (OR SOLDER them in the first place). I will be making my own as I already have plenty stock of the all the parts and the proper tool and have made more than 100 connections so I do not feel intimidated by the process and the crimps that I get are very good electrically and physically. I still can't be sloppy about it as it is not hard to mess one up. 73, Jim ----- Original Message ----- From: "Bill Maddock" <[hidden email]> To: <[hidden email]> Sent: Friday, April 18, 2008 10:08 PM Subject: [Elecraft] Power pole for K3? > > I have seen a lot of talk about the power pole connectors. Am > I right in assuming that I will get a new power cord with my K3? > I will be using an Astron 70A supply - a bit of over kill, but I > currently run 2 TS-850S on it now. I also have 4 group 29 deep cycle > batteries for backup with 2 80 watt solar panels and a charger > controller. Ordered in Jnauary - getting antsy! > > 73, > > Bill N4ZI Munford, TN > > > ________ > Be a better friend, newshound, and > know-it-all with Yahoo! Mobile. Try it now. http://mobile.yahoo.com/;_ylt=Ahu06i62sR8HDtDypao8Wcj9tAcJ > _______________________________________________ > Elecraft mailing list > Post to: [hidden email] > You must be a subscriber to post to the list. > Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): > http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft > > Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm > Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com > _______________________________________________ Elecraft mailing list Post to: [hidden email] You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com |
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In reply to this post by Bill Maddock-2
Notice to hams.... I have introduced a new DC power plug and socket for ham use.... It requires three special tools to strip the wire, twist it, and then crimp it into the connector (each tool is discounted at abt $100 each). The result requires soldering with silver solder, utilizing the "Norcroft" wicking tool (sold in 220VAC only), and the mating of the two halves with the preferred method of hay bailing wire (obtained from your neighbor farmer). Please note that it is possible to mate the two halves conviently so that reverse polarity is possible, as needed. These new connectors have the adoption of the National Amateur Radio Group and many manufacturers. It is recommended all hams immediately equip themselves with the proper tools for this great new fixture (not available outside of Utah). 73, Charles Harpole [hidden email] > From: [hidden email] > To: [hidden email]; [hidden email] > Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Power pole for K3? > Date: Sun, 20 Apr 2008 13:31:00 -0500 > CC: > > OK, I'm late in throwing in my two cents. I have the Anderson Power Pole > crimper and have used another also that is the correct size and has the > proper jaws but it is not a ratcheting type. It is usable but is not as > foolproof as the ratcheting type. The Anderson is the "correct" one and > applies the proper force, and fits the sleeve and the wire size you are > using. If you do not use this type, the wire will be loose or the connector > deformed and will not fit or make a secure connection. > > What I am trying to say is that even IF you buy the Anderson crimper, you > are likely to screw up a few of the first ones you try to crimp. Now you > have to solder anyway or order some more connectors, not what you want when > you are hot to get on the air. > > My suggestion, unless you have the proper tool and therefore are likely > proficient at crimping, is to ORDER the wired set from Elecraft and save > yourself the possible problems with first time crimps (OR SOLDER them in the > first place). > > I will be making my own as I already have plenty stock of the all the parts > and the proper tool and have made more than 100 connections so I do not feel > intimidated by the process and the crimps that I get are very good > electrically and physically. I still can't be sloppy about it as it is not > hard to mess one up. > > 73, Jim > > ----- Original Message ----- > From: "Bill Maddock" <[hidden email]> > To: <[hidden email]> > Sent: Friday, April 18, 2008 10:08 PM > Subject: [Elecraft] Power pole for K3? > > > > > > I have seen a lot of talk about the power pole connectors. Am > > I right in assuming that I will get a new power cord with my K3? > > I will be using an Astron 70A supply - a bit of over kill, but I > > currently run 2 TS-850S on it now. I also have 4 group 29 deep cycle > > batteries for backup with 2 80 watt solar panels and a charger > > controller. Ordered in Jnauary - getting antsy! > > > > 73, > > > > Bill N4ZI Munford, TN > > > > > > > ____________________________________________________________________________ > ________ > > Be a better friend, newshound, and > > know-it-all with Yahoo! Mobile. Try it now. > http://mobile.yahoo.com/;_ylt=Ahu06i62sR8HDtDypao8Wcj9tAcJ > > _______________________________________________ > > Elecraft mailing list > > Post to: [hidden email] > > You must be a subscriber to post to the list. > > Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): > > http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft > > > > Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm > > Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com > > > > _______________________________________________ > Elecraft mailing list > Post to: [hidden email] > You must be a subscriber to post to the list. > Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): > http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft > > Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm > Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com Elecraft mailing list Post to: [hidden email] You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com |
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Do you have a picture of this new connector - perhaps a web site with
examples of usage? -- Don't say you don't have enough time. You have exactly the same number of hours per day that were given to Helen Keller, Pasteur, Michaelangelo, Mother Teresa, Leonardo da Vinci, Thomas Jefferson, and Albert Einstein. -H. Jackson Brown, Jr., writer On 21 Apr 2008, at 16:11, Charles Harpole wrote: > > > Notice to hams.... I have introduced a new DC power plug and socket > for ham use.... > > It requires three special tools to strip the wire, twist it, and > then crimp it into the > > connector (each tool is discounted at abt $100 each). The result > requires soldering with silver solder, > > utilizing the "Norcroft" wicking tool (sold in 220VAC only), and the > mating of the two halves with > > the preferred method of hay bailing wire (obtained from your > neighbor farmer). Please note that it > > is possible to mate the two halves conviently so that reverse > polarity is possible, as needed. > > These new connectors have the adoption of the National Amateur Radio > Group and many manufacturers. > > It is recommended all hams immediately equip themselves with the > proper tools for this great new > > fixture (not available outside of Utah). 73, _______________________________________________ Elecraft mailing list Post to: [hidden email] You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com |
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