Problems aligning my K1 with ATU - help.

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Problems aligning my K1 with ATU - help.

Darwin, Keith
I tried to align my K1-4 last night.  TX output was low on the upper
bands and I suspected alignment issues.
 
I took out the ATU and put a wire jumper into filter board J2 pins 2 &
10.  I then reconnected the RF board resistor R36 (one end was lifted as
part of the ATU upgrade).  I moved the RF board P3 jumper from "KAT1" to
"K1".  Are these the right steps to allow the K1 to work without the
ATU?
 
When I did the alignment, I noticed a couple of the trimmer caps in the
middle (C1-4 & CA-D) were touchy (intermittent).  I reheated the solder
joints and was able to get all 4 bands aligned on RX and on TX where I
got full power on all bands.  Things looked good so I opened up R37,
moved the P3 jumper, removed my temporary J2 jumper, and put the ATU
back in.  Output on 40 and 30 is nil and RX is weak.  20 & 15 are fine.
It seems as though putting it back together somehow knocked it out of
alignment.
 
I'm thinking I should replace the touchy trimmer caps.  Or maybe check
for shorts between the ATU and the filter board.  When I did the
alignment the filter board was held down with only the center screw.
Should I have mounted it fully?
 
Thoughts?  Suggestions?
 
- Keith KD1E -
 
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RE: Problems aligning my K1 with ATU - help.

Darwin, Keith
Yes, that is a type.

R36 is the resistor!

- Keith -

-----Original Message-----
From: Paul Meier [mailto:[hidden email]]
Sent: Friday, March 31, 2006 10:09 AM
To: Darwin, Keith
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Problems aligning my K1 with ATU - help.

This might be a typo but in the first step you talked about R36 having a
lifted leg and at the end you reinstalled R37.  Just wondering what that
was about.

Paul K7PM

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Re: Problems aligning my K1 with ATU - help.

Ralph Tyrrell
In reply to this post by Darwin, Keith
Keith:
With in the past week I also did the re-alighment in
my K1.
I also found the following:

K1 errata F-2.pdf (in part says)

ยง A small jumper block has been added for selecting
the source voltage for the RF detector (RF
board or KAT1 antenna tuner). This will make it easier
to install or remove the KAT1 option
and align new Filter boards. Previously, R36 on the RF
board had to be desoldered whenever
the tuner was installed.

So I solderd R36 in place, and left it that way.

I did not fully mount the filter board during
alignment and had no problems.

73, Ty, W1TF, K1 # 1423


--- "Darwin, Keith" <[hidden email]> wrote:

> I tried to align my K1-4 last night.  TX output was
> low on the upper
> bands and I suspected alignment issues.
>  
> I took out the ATU and put a wire jumper into filter
> board J2 pins 2 &
> 10.  I then reconnected the RF board resistor R36
> (one end was lifted as
> part of the ATU upgrade).  I moved the RF board P3
> jumper from "KAT1" to
> "K1".  Are these the right steps to allow the K1 to
> work without the
> ATU?
>  
> When I did the alignment, I noticed a couple of the
> trimmer caps in the
> middle (C1-4 & CA-D) were touchy (intermittent).  I
> reheated the solder
> joints and was able to get all 4 bands aligned on RX
> and on TX where I
> got full power on all bands.  Things looked good so
> I opened up R37,
> moved the P3 jumper, removed my temporary J2 jumper,
> and put the ATU
> back in.  Output on 40 and 30 is nil and RX is weak.
>  20 & 15 are fine.
> It seems as though putting it back together somehow
> knocked it out of
> alignment.
>  
> I'm thinking I should replace the touchy trimmer
> caps.  Or maybe check
> for shorts between the ATU and the filter board.
> When I did the
> alignment the filter board was held down with only
> the center screw.
> Should I have mounted it fully?
>  
> Thoughts?  Suggestions?
>  
> - Keith KD1E -



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