Problems
Locked
 
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Hi All,
My K2 project has two snags. The first is the optical encoder. When turning the encoder shaft, it appears to be battling with "Lock" to see who will control the frequency. Lock always wins, although if you turn fast enough, you can get one or two changes in the lsb. The remainder of the front panel seems to work well. Can someone shed some light on this problem? The second battle is somewhere in the PLL. I get a signal at TP1. TP2 has nothing but a lot of noise that you would expect if the loop is not locking properly. These are sticky wickets, and I sure could use help. Thanks for any help, Bill NA7Y _______________________________________________ Elecraft mailing list Post to: [hidden email] You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com |
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Hello all,
I just ordered a KX-1 lastnight and I have bought a weller wes51 solder station and cutters which are ESD safe. My question is, how do I make myself ESD safe? In the KX-1 manual it says, "Wear a conductive wrist strap with a series 1 megohm resistor." I have a wrist strap, I can get a 1 megohm resistor, but what do I connect it to? The PCB board? A wire going out my window to the ground? I really don't want to shock any components, so I want to be very careful about ESD and take the best course to prevent it. Thanks all, -Chris ____________________________________________________________________________________ The fish are biting. Get more visitors on your site using Yahoo! Search Marketing. http://searchmarketing.yahoo.com/arp/sponsoredsearch_v2.php _______________________________________________ Elecraft mailing list Post to: [hidden email] You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com |
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My wrist strap terminates in a banana plug, which I connect to the
earth ground terminal of my Heathkit lab power supply. 73! Dan KB6NU ---------------------------------------------------------- CW Geek and MI Affiliated Club Coordinator Read my ham radio blog at www.kb6nu.com LET'S GET MORE KIDS INTO HAM RADIO! On May 23, 2007, at 3:24 PM, Koaps wrote: > Hello all, > > I just ordered a KX-1 lastnight and I have bought a > weller wes51 solder station and cutters which are ESD > safe. > > My question is, how do I make myself ESD safe? > > In the KX-1 manual it says, > > "Wear a conductive wrist strap with a series 1 megohm > resistor." > > I have a wrist strap, I can get a 1 megohm resistor, > but what do I connect it to? The PCB board? A wire > going out my window to the ground? > > I really don't want to shock any components, so I want > to be very careful about ESD and take the best course > to prevent it. > > Thanks all, > -Chris _______________________________________________ Elecraft mailing list Post to: [hidden email] You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com |
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In reply to this post by Koaps
Connect it to the mains ground, just like your Weller soldering station.
Wrist straps designed for ESD protection have a 1 Meg resistor built it. It's easy to check with your DMM. The warning is there in case someone homebrews a strap. It works very well without the resistor too, too well if you should touch a live circuit with the other hand so the current passes through your body where it could kill you. That's why the resistor. It limits the current to a safe value while still draining off any static fast enough to protect sensitive components. Optionally, touching a bare, metal ground regularly just before handling a sensitive part works fine too. The advantage of the strap is you only have to remember to put it on. Be aware that squirming on your cloth seat or shuffling your feet on the carpet under your chair can produce a big static charge quickly. If using the touch-the-ground method, touch it often and sit still after doing it! Other things to be aware of: 1) Do not use any Styrofoam or other plastic containers to hold parts. They are very efficient static generators which can damage parts even though you are grounded. (The pink plastic bags many parts come in have a slightly conductive film on the surface to protect the parts inside. The important thing is that the voltage across the leads of a sensitive part never exceed a few volts - their normal range. So even if you pick up one of those bags with a huge static charge on your body, you won't do any damage as long as everything is inside the bag. The black foam some parts have their leads stuck into does the same thing. It's slightly conductive so the leads of the device are at the same voltage. They're safe as long as their leads are in the foam even if you don't have your wrist strap on.) 2) For the same reason do not use carpet on your work bench! That was very popular years ago, but most carpet a huge static electricity reservoir. A static-dissipating mat is nice, but not essential. 3) Just because a part is installed in a pc board doesn't mean it's safe. Usually the assembly procedures call for installing sensitive parts last, whenever possible, so resistors and other circuit elements serve to keep the leads from acquiring a destructive static charge. But when you have a board out of the rig, some sensitive circuits may be open where it plugs into the other boards. Unless you know for sure it's safe, treat any pcb that is out of the rig as static sensitive. Ron AC7AC -----Original Message----- From: [hidden email] [mailto:[hidden email]] On Behalf Of Koaps Sent: Wednesday, May 23, 2007 12:24 PM To: Elecraft Subject: [Elecraft] Being ESD Safe Hello all, I just ordered a KX-1 lastnight and I have bought a weller wes51 solder station and cutters which are ESD safe. My question is, how do I make myself ESD safe? In the KX-1 manual it says, "Wear a conductive wrist strap with a series 1 megohm resistor." I have a wrist strap, I can get a 1 megohm resistor, but what do I connect it to? The PCB board? A wire going out my window to the ground? I really don't want to shock any components, so I want to be very careful about ESD and take the best course to prevent it. Thanks all, -Chris ____________________________________________________________________________ ________ The fish are biting. Get more visitors on your site using Yahoo! Search Marketing. http://searchmarketing.yahoo.com/arp/sponsoredsearch_v2.php _______________________________________________ Elecraft mailing list Post to: [hidden email] You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com _______________________________________________ Elecraft mailing list Post to: [hidden email] You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com |
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Thanks for the replies.
Good info, I wasn't sure if I need to plug into my powerstrip or something to get a ground contact, living in an apartment makes grounding kinda a pain, and I have a power splitter with a power/ground lights and the ground light likes to flash a lot, leading me to believe the ground isn't the best. I'm going to be working on a wood table(particle board) and there is carpet on the floor, unfortunately there's no where else to setup. I wasn't sure if I needed to get a mat on the table or not, its not coated with any varnish or anything, just raw wood. I'm really excited about building the KX1, this will be the first hardcore circuit I have built. I have done some dead bug stuff for BEAM robots, and an easy FM transmitter kit, but nothing like the KX1. Thanks again for the replies guys, makes me feel better about ESD. -Chris ____________________________________________________________________________________Building a website is a piece of cake. Yahoo! Small Business gives you all the tools to get online. http://smallbusiness.yahoo.com/webhosting _______________________________________________ Elecraft mailing list Post to: [hidden email] You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com |
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Chris,
I would advise an anti-static mat on your workbench, especially since you are working on carpet. One of the ones that are computer keyboard size should do nicely and are available for a reasonable price. Connect both the mat and the wrist strap to the mains ground lug - each should have the 1 megohm resistor as part of the grounding cable, but you may want to check with an ohmmeter. 73, Don W3FPR Koaps wrote: > Thanks for the replies. > > Good info, I wasn't sure if I need to plug into my > powerstrip or something to get a ground contact, > living in an apartment makes grounding kinda a pain, > and I have a power splitter with a power/ground lights > and the ground light likes to flash a lot, leading me > to believe the ground isn't the best. > > I'm going to be working on a wood table(particle > board) and there is carpet on the floor, unfortunately > there's no where else to setup. > > I wasn't sure if I needed to get a mat on the table or > not, its not coated with any varnish or anything, just > raw wood. > > I'm really excited about building the KX1, this will > be the first hardcore circuit I have built. I have > done some dead bug stuff for BEAM robots, and an easy > FM transmitter kit, but nothing like the KX1. > > Thanks again for the replies guys, makes me feel > better about ESD. Elecraft mailing list Post to: [hidden email] You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com |
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In reply to this post by William M. Spaulding, SR
Bill,
Check carefully for unsoldered connections on the front panel board, and/or the connectors on the RF Board to both the front panel and the control board. Likewise check for solder bridges. On the PLL, do you hsve a signal at TP3? - that is the PLL oscillator (12,090 kHz vicinity), what is the frequency at TP1? Is it consistent with the band that the K2 is tuned to? (see the VCO table on the K2 Schematic Key page). The signal at TP2 comes from the BFO and TP2 normally will not have a signal unless in CAL FCTR mode or during transmit. 73, Don W3FPR William M. Spaulding, SR wrote: > Hi All, > > My K2 project has two snags. The first is the optical encoder. When turning the encoder shaft, it appears to be battling with "Lock" to see who will control the frequency. Lock always wins, although if you turn fast enough, you can get one or two changes in the lsb. The remainder of the front panel seems to work well. Can someone shed some light on this problem? > > The second battle is somewhere in the PLL. I get a signal at TP1. TP2 has nothing but a lot of noise that you would expect if the loop is not locking properly. These are sticky wickets, and I sure could use help. > > Thanks for any help, > > Bill > NA7Y Elecraft mailing list Post to: [hidden email] You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com |
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In reply to this post by Koaps
Quick Answer: See This months (JUNE 2007) QST Page 28. I could add a lot to
the article from a MIL-SPEC suppliers point of view, but then it would be grossly overstated. Check the Elecraft Web Pages for more also. A good wrist strap and common sense will go a long way. Good luck with the project. Al WA6VNN ************************************** See what's free at http://www.aol.com. _______________________________________________ Elecraft mailing list Post to: [hidden email] You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com |
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In reply to this post by Koaps
",,,,,,,,,, Connect to the House Mains" (connection
thru one's 110VAC outlet) Problem, or potential problems with this "ground (thru a resistor) connection" - it assumes some electrician didn't mess up and not connect that plug's ground. It is common home electical "code" - that one should not count on having a continuous or present ground connection, at every plug in a home. Some may be mis-wired, some may be open, some may have been wired wrong, some may have opened over time. To exasterbate (sp?) the safety problem further - almost every home in the U.S. can have a different connection to earth ground - be it a 6 foot copper rod at outlet box, or they relied on the 8 foot copper-plated rod at the nearest transformer pole, or some other "ground" connection somewhere that power company's felt should be operable. Your home's ground therefore - could actually be .14 VAC, etc. Medical experts say it only takes milliamp currents, thru one's heart - to kill a person. Some so-called ground connections, can actually be several volts above or below "zero volts". Ala - old homes, and facilities. FOR THESE REASONS - It appears strongly recommend every ham, with a ham station, should install one or more local copper ground rods near their shack, and use them accordingly. "earth grounds" Electricians are only human - I took their license code course a couple years back in 2001. I'm an EE, but if there is a licensed electrician on this list - possibly they could educate us all on this one! Question really is: HOW DOES ONE ENSURE HIS HOME, and SHACK PLUGS - actually are connected to ZERO VOLT REAL GROUND, AS CODE SAYS THEY SHOULD BE? Fred, N3CSY, NY ____________________________________________________________________________________Shape Yahoo! in your own image. Join our Network Research Panel today! http://surveylink.yahoo.com/gmrs/yahoo_panel_invite.asp?a=7 _______________________________________________ Elecraft mailing list Post to: [hidden email] You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com |
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In reply to this post by Koaps
I DO NOT KNOW THE ESD-CONNECTION ANSWER: This topic
of SAFE ESD, HOUSE GROUNDS, and how to do it - needs to be answered by a licensed U.S. Electrician - versed in the electrical code now in place in the U.S. How GROUND is established, and where one is supposed to find and connect to GROUND - needs to be answered by a licensed Electrican or Electrical contractor. I am not one of these - and therefore do not know myself - other than problem cases I've read about in the technical journals. (IEEE, "Hospital Ground Problems", "Marina boating Electrical Problems") Fred, N3CSY ____________________________________________________________________________________Choose the right car based on your needs. Check out Yahoo! Autos new Car Finder tool. http://autos.yahoo.com/carfinder/ _______________________________________________ Elecraft mailing list Post to: [hidden email] You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com |
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In reply to this post by Fred (FL)
Folks,
Remember that the basic requirement for ESD protection at the workbench is that everything in the work area should be at the *same* potential. That potential does not have to be at absolute zero reference volts, and the grounding leads do not have to carry more than a few microamps - the mats and straps are to be grounded through 1 megohm resistors (usually built-in) so the currents are limited. Of course, you should check to be certain that the ground lead on your electrical plugs in the work area (and the rest of your house too) are actually connected. Get one of those little outlet testers that plug into the receptacle and indicate its state with LEDs. As long as the outlets are grounded, you can use that ground as an adequate grounding terminal for ESD protection in your work area, with standard receptacles in the US, the duplex receptacle plate mounting screw provides a good ground connection point. There is no need to drive rounding rods and run separate grounds for this purpose. In the shack where you have antennas coming in, a different situation exists, and proper lightning protection is prudent, but that is different than ESD protection in the work area. 73, Don W3FPR Fred (FL) wrote: > ",,,,,,,,,, Connect to the House Mains" (connection > thru one's 110VAC outlet) > > Problem, or potential problems with this "ground (thru > a resistor) connection" - it assumes some electrician > didn't mess up and not connect that plug's ground. > It is common home electical "code" - that one should > not count on having a continuous or present ground > connection, at every plug in a home. Some may be > mis-wired, some may be open, some may have been > wired wrong, some may have opened over time. > > To exasterbate (sp?) the safety problem further - > almost every home in the U.S. can have a different > connection to earth ground - be it a 6 foot copper rod > at outlet box, or they relied on the 8 foot > copper-plated rod at the nearest transformer pole, or > some other "ground" connection somewhere that power > company's felt should be operable. Your home's ground > therefore - could actually be .14 VAC, etc. > > Medical experts say it only takes milliamp currents, > thru one's heart - to kill a person. > > Some so-called ground connections, can actually be > several volts above or below "zero volts". Ala - > old homes, and facilities. > > FOR THESE REASONS - It appears strongly recommend > every ham, with a ham station, should install one or > more local copper ground rods near their shack, and > use them accordingly. "earth grounds" > > Electricians are only human - I took their license > code course a couple years back in 2001. I'm an EE, > but if there is a licensed electrician on this list - > possibly they could educate us all on this one! > > Question really is: HOW DOES ONE ENSURE HIS HOME, and > SHACK PLUGS - actually are connected to ZERO > VOLT REAL GROUND, AS CODE SAYS THEY SHOULD BE? > > Fred, N3CSY, NY > Elecraft mailing list Post to: [hidden email] You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com |
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In reply to this post by Fred (FL)
Almost any hardware store will provide you, for a very small price, a
reliable outlet tester that checks for a valid mains safety ground AND to see if the wires to the spade terminals are connected correctly. Your test equipment that plugs in, especially the ESD-safe soldering iron, is connected to the mains "safety ground". Many such tools have a ground stud on them for attaching a wrist strap or anti-static pad. At least one company sells a special plug that goes into a mains outlet and provides a connection stud for a wrist strap or mat that attaches it to the ground wire. There's nothing you can do at the test bench to compensate for a badly wired mains circuit. If the tester shows something amiss -- no ground, reversed mains leads to the outlet, etc. -- it should be corrected. A licensed electrician is best equipped to do that right. That's something I do on every outlet in every place I live, and fix any outlets that aren't wired correctly. According to the electricians I've spoken with, the worst thing a person can do is to arrange a ground wire to the bench separate from the mains ground. There have been cases where the mains ground has failed - been broken accidentally, subject to corrosion because the wires were connected improperly, etc. It's rare, but it has happened. When that happens, it is possible for a dangerous, even a lethal, voltage to exist between the "safety ground" at the round hole in the mains outlet (in the USA) and true earth ground. If your bench is grounded to its own rod driven into the earth, that could present a serious safety hazard should you touch both a piece of equipment whose case is attached to the mains ground and something connected to your separate ground. The safest ground is the mains ground. That's why it's there. Ron AC7AC -----Original Message----- ",,,,,,,,,, Connect to the House Mains" (connection thru one's 110VAC outlet) Problem, or potential problems with this "ground (thru a resistor) connection" - it assumes some electrician didn't mess up and not connect that plug's ground. It is common home electical "code" - that one should not count on having a continuous or present ground connection, at every plug in a home. Some may be mis-wired, some may be open, some may have been wired wrong, some may have opened over time. ... Question really is: HOW DOES ONE ENSURE HIS HOME, and SHACK PLUGS - actually are connected to ZERO VOLT REAL GROUND, AS CODE SAYS THEY SHOULD BE? Fred, N3CSY, NY _______________________________________________ Elecraft mailing list Post to: [hidden email] You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com |
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