Proud new owner of K1 #292
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I am officially the proud new owner of K1-2 Serial #292 with KAT1 and
40/20 meters purchased from K5MO. Very smooth transaction with John, very reputable guy to deal with. I also have parts on order from Elecraft to add a couple more band modules. The K1 was designed as a 2-band rig and I plan on keeping it that way. I'm positive the 4-band filter board works fine as designed by Wayne and Co. but I'm not partial to all the component sharing. I'm probably going to build an 80/40 board, a 20/15 board, and a 30/17 board. I may then rebuild my board and see if I can get 160M and/or 10M to work as some others have. As this is a pretty low serial number, I'm off to crack open the K1 and see if the updates and latest firmwares have been applied. 72 de JT, W6FO _______________________________________________ Elecraft mailing list Post to: [hidden email] You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com |
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You might be better off building a 160/80 and then a 30/17, or
30/15 board. The 10 meter band is still in some limbo stages I think. Just be aware that it's not "wise" to have two boards with the same band (like an 80/40 and 40/20 board as the CPU can only remember one corrective offset per band.) I've been tickled pink with my K1. Have 160/80 then the 4 band 40/30/20/15. Thinking of a 17/10 meter board in future once the bugs outta the 10 meter modification. 73, Sandy W5TVW K1 #1178 ----- Original Message ----- From: "JT Croteau" <[hidden email]> To: <[hidden email]> Sent: Wednesday, May 24, 2006 3:30 PM Subject: [Elecraft] Proud new owner of K1 #292 | I am officially the proud new owner of K1-2 Serial #292 with KAT1 and | 40/20 meters purchased from K5MO. Very smooth transaction with John, | very reputable guy to deal with. | | I also have parts on order from Elecraft to add a couple more band | modules. The K1 was designed as a 2-band rig and I plan on keeping it | that way. I'm positive the 4-band filter board works fine as designed | by Wayne and Co. but I'm not partial to all the component sharing. | I'm probably going to build an 80/40 board, a 20/15 board, and a 30/17 | board. I may then rebuild my board and see if I can get 160M and/or | 10M to work as some others have. | | As this is a pretty low serial number, I'm off to crack open the K1 | and see if the updates and latest firmwares have been applied. | | 72 de JT, W6FO | _______________________________________________ | Elecraft mailing list | Post to: [hidden email] | You must be a subscriber to post to the list. | Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): | http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft | | Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm | Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com | | | | -- | No virus found in this incoming message. | Checked by AVG Free Edition. | Version: 7.1.394 / Virus Database: 268.7.1/347 - Release Date: 5/24/2006 | | _______________________________________________ Elecraft mailing list Post to: [hidden email] You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com |
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On 5/24/06, Sandy W5TVW <[hidden email]> wrote:
> You might be better off building a 160/80 and then a 30/17, or > 30/15 board. The 10 meter band is still in some limbo stages I think. I wanted 80/40 on the same board as this will be the combo I use at home the most. I have a dual band 33' tall vertical in the center of the yard that works real well on 80 and 40. > Just be aware that it's not "wise" to have two boards with the same band > (like an 80/40 and 40/20 board as the CPU can only remember one > corrective offset per band.) Yup, I knew of this. This is why I came up with the combos I did. 80/40 because of the antenna above. 20/15 when I head to the woods as antennas for these bands are much easier to carry and deploy. 30/17 for when there's a major contest with all the kilowatts hogging up the other bands. > I've been tickled pink with my K1. Have 160/80 then the 4 band Are there any gotchas with the 160 configuration as it stands now? Thanks 72 de JT, W6FO _______________________________________________ Elecraft mailing list Post to: [hidden email] You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com |
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In reply to this post by JT Croteau-2
JT wrote:
>The K1 was designed as a 2-band rig and I plan on keeping it >that way. I'm positive the 4-band filter board works fine as designed The K1 was not compromised in any way by the introduction of the four-band filter board. I have K1 #175, and I originally built 40/20 and 30/15 boards in late 2000. The later availability of the four-band board MORE than DOUBLED the utility of my K1. It's highly highly recommended. I re-built one of my old two-band boards for 80/17. The K1 is NOT really designed to support very frequent filter board swaps. You won't really be wanting to do this often. >...but I'm not partial to all the component sharing. There are no real technical issues here. The four-band board design provides as good or BETTER performance on any band as was provided by a two-band board with the same band on it. >MCU Firmware is 1.09E and I'm now trying to determine if K1UPKT >has been applied to the rig That's still the latest version of FW. >KAT1 firmware is 1.10 and I'm guessing is a bit outdated. How big of >a deal is the latest firmware? The last KAT1 firmware is version 1.30, I think. I upgraded mine, but I can't tell much difference. >Also, how important is it to apply K1UPKT? Is it a necessary upgrade? In my opinion, the most important upgrades from that kit are: 1. VFO linearization. Just requires one 100k resistor (R19) on the front panel circuit. 2. Attenuator pop reduction. Just requires one 15 uH RF choke on the bottom of the RF board. I did NOT find it desirable to do the "RF Detector Switch" nor the "Transmit Offset Test Switch" mods. There is another mod to reduce QSK thump, if that is a problem, that is described at: http://www.elecraft.com/Apps/K1_qsk_app_note.htm This mod is NOT part of the K1UPKT. Also, the K1UPKT does not mention or install two components that are to be installed on Rev. E K1 RF boards to support 80m operation: C78 (22 uF) and RFC8 (100 uH). But these should be added to the Rev. D boards too. If you have the KNB1 noise blanker installed, it is important that it has been modified to add a .01 uF bypass cap from U1 pin 1 to ground, otherwise the KNB1 will sometimes generate the most gosh-awful noise in the receiver during QSK, at certain frequencies in the 20m band. I also think that the RF board AGC capacitor C31 results in much much better AGC performance when lowered from 2.2 uF to 1 uF (or even lower). The Rev. E boards can easily be configured so that the front panel phone connection can be used for MONO phones without the mono phone plug shorting out the audio. I had to figure out which traces to cut and bridge on my Rev. D RF board to do the same thing, and believe me, after the K1 is assembled, it is NOT obvious which traces should be cut and bridged to do this. 73, Mike / KK5F _______________________________________________ Elecraft mailing list Post to: [hidden email] You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com |
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