RE: Low Antenna on Mountain Top

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RE: Low Antenna on Mountain Top

Bill W4ZV
WA3WSJ:
 >Recently I compared a 40m dipole fed with 300 ohm ladder line
up 20 feet to a ground-mounted vertical on a 100 foot cliff at Turkey
Point Lighthouse, MD. The vertical beat the dipole by around two
S-Units.

         Interesting.  I had just the opposite
experience in the recent Flight of the Bumblebees
test.  I was using an 88' doublet with 40' apex and 25'
ends fed with 300 ohm line to an Emtech ZM-2 versus
a Par End-Fed 20/40 Half Wave Vertical.  The doublet
was almost always better than the vertical although
there were a few times when the vertical was clearly
better.  This was on a mountain top about 300' above
average surrounding terrain.  I did a lot of comparing
signals on both 20m and 40m during the test.

         Over flat terrain, a dipole up ~1/2 wavelength
has 7-8 dB gain over a vertical at typical 30
degree takeoff angles.  On a mountain top, the TOA
goes down because the effective height is raised.

                                         73,  Bill  W4ZV

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RE: RE: Low Antenna on Mountain Top

Ron D'Eau Claire-2
Bill, W4ZV wrote:
         Over flat terrain, a dipole up ~1/2 wavelength
has 7-8 dB gain over a vertical at typical 30
degree takeoff angles.  On a mountain top, the TOA
goes down because the effective height is raised.

---------------------------------------------------

When people say "vertical", they usually mean a 1/4 wavelength (or less)
radiator. Such verticals are HUGELY dependent upon the ground return for
their efficiency. There's been an on-going argument about that since Marconi
hisself was tinkering with them, but that standard for comparison is that a
1/4 wave radiator should have something on the order of 50 to 100 0.2 wave
radials if it's going to be comparable of a 1/2 wave radiator. That's not to
say an vertical is always inefficient, but that one can't really assess how
efficient it is when using other ground systems and locations. The only
exception to that is a vertical over salt water, as in at sea on a ship.

Short of such a massive ground system, a decent comparison with a horizontal
1/2 wave radiator can only be made with a vertical 1/2 wave radiator (or at
least with radiators of the same physical length if both are less than 1/2
wave).

Even then there will be huge differences based on the propagation involved,
although on HF it's far less than VHF and above. On HF,
reflection/refraction of the wave in the ionosphere pretty well rotates and
mixes the polarization.  

Ron AC7AC



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Re: RE: Low Antenna on Mountain Top

Leigh L. Klotz Jr WA5ZNU
Administrator
In reply to this post by Bill W4ZV
In re the comments on Marconi antenna and ground effects, Isn't the Par
end-fed a vertically polrized Hertz antenna, not a Marconi?
Leigh / WA5ZNU

On Fri, 12 Aug 2005 9:29 am, Bill Tippett wrote:
>         Interesting.  I had just the opposite
> experience in the recent Flight of the Bumblebees
> test.  I was using an 88' doublet with 40' apex and 25'
> ends fed with 300 ohm line to an Emtech ZM-2 versus
> a Par End-Fed 20/40 Half Wave Vertical.  The doublet
> was almost always better than the vertical although
> there were a few times when the vertical was clearly
> better
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Re: RE: Low Antenna on Mountain Top

Stuart Rohre
The definition of Marconi antenna is that it is quarter wave.

A half wave antenna is called a Hertz antenna in some older literature.

Stuart
K5KVH



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Re: RE: Low Antenna on Mountain Top

Geoffrey Mackenzie-Kennedy-2
In reply to this post by Bill W4ZV
Ed, WA3WSJ wrote:

> >Recently I compared a 40m dipole fed with 300 ohm ladder line
> up 20 feet to a ground-mounted vertical on a 100 foot cliff at Turkey
> Point Lighthouse, MD. The vertical beat the dipole by around two
> S-Units.

Bill, W4ZV wrote:

>         Interesting.  I had just the opposite
> experience in the recent Flight of the Bumblebees
> test.  I was using an 88' doublet with 40' apex and 25'
> ends fed with 300 ohm line to an Emtech ZM-2 versus
> a Par End-Fed 20/40 Half Wave Vertical.  The doublet
> was almost always better than the vertical although
> there were a few times when the vertical was clearly
> better.  This was on a mountain top about 300' above
> average surrounding terrain.  I did a lot of comparing
> signals on both 20m and 40m during the test.

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

It is my understanding that the vertical pattern of a half wave vertical
splits up into several narrow lobes when it is installed on top of a
'narrow' mountain top, with the dominant lobe being at the lowest TOA.
Because of the nulls, the incoming signal has to be arriving at just the
right angle plus and minus not very much for the vertical to be seen as
better than a doublet at the same location. The doublet has the broad
vertical lobe.This might explain Bill's experience.

When the vertical is placed on a cliff edge, I would suspect that some null
filling could take place, especially if the vertical is a ground mounted
quarter wave. However I think that it would be very difficult to model such
a situation with any accuracy - what is the pattern of ground currents for
starters? This antenna no doubt benefits from zero obstructions and little
ground loss over the cliff's edge.

If propagation is via the E layer, the angles of arrival are low - about 14
degrees for a 500 mile hop and 4 degrees for a 1000 mile hop. So a 'DX'
antenna is also a good antenna for short haul - if the E layer is involved.

73,
Geoff
GM4ESD

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Re: RE: Low Antenna on Mountain Top

Paul Gates
In reply to this post by Ron D'Eau Claire-2
Hi Ron, I have played and fooled around with verticals for many years and as
my friend K3RA, Rol Anders says... "A vertical radiates poorly in all
directions!!" LOL! At present I do have a vertical dipole... Gap Challenger
Vertical and it does perform acceptably! But, I also have a dipole up about
35 feet up.

I think it was the HyGain 14AVQ or the 18AVQ up on the house roof with
radials/guide wires for all bands and had it all grounded to a 1/2 pipe that
ran down along outside  of the water well for 200 feet. Now maybe that setup
was not suppose to work but it worked like gang busters. At sundown when the
bands started going out the beams lost it but I stayed right in there with
the DX! That was many years ago when I lived in Tenn. at the Sequachie
Valley. Our Parsonage was up on a hill and I was in the clear. That was in
the mid 60s. I have tried some unique grounding devices through the years
and they worked out pretty good.

Mercy, I even tried the old Gotham vertical from Miami Beach... The 23 foot
vertical I was using a Gonset G66B Receiver and a Elmac AF 67 Transmitter in
Cedartown, Georgia. I was not sure I was getting RF to the vertical so I put
the transmitter in Key Down and went outside and touched the vertical with
the palm of my hand.... It took weeks for the burn to heal on my hand. I was
a novice then and knew very little. My radio teacher who was preparing me
for the General class license took pity on me and built me a 75/40 dipole
with one coax. I had the 40 running east and west and the 75 running north
and south. Come to think of it It must have been a NVIS antenna!! <g>

I had a Gap Eagle Vertical back in 1993 and it performed well with the
ground plane it uses. Had it up a few feet above the roof.

I have some information I want to share about NVIS antennas but will leave
that for another email.
Paul
Paul Gates
K1  #0231
KX1 #1186
XG1
[hidden email]


----- Original Message -----
From: "Ron D'Eau Claire" <[hidden email]>
To: <[hidden email]>
Sent: Friday, August 12, 2005 12:44 PM
Subject: RE: [Elecraft] RE: Low Antenna on Mountain Top


Bill, W4ZV wrote:
         Over flat terrain, a dipole up ~1/2 wavelength
has 7-8 dB gain over a vertical at typical 30
degree takeoff angles.  On a mountain top, the TOA
goes down because the effective height is raised.

---------------------------------------------------

When people say "vertical", they usually mean a 1/4 wavelength (or less)
radiator. Such verticals are HUGELY dependent upon the ground return for
their efficiency. There's been an on-going argument about that since Marconi
hisself was tinkering with them, but that standard for comparison is that a
1/4 wave radiator should have something on the order of 50 to 100 0.2 wave
radials if it's going to be comparable of a 1/2 wave radiator. That's not to
say an vertical is always inefficient, but that one can't really assess how
efficient it is when using other ground systems and locations. The only
exception to that is a vertical over salt water, as in at sea on a ship.

Short of such a massive ground system, a decent comparison with a horizontal
1/2 wave radiator can only be made with a vertical 1/2 wave radiator (or at
least with radiators of the same physical length if both are less than 1/2
wave).

Even then there will be huge differences based on the propagation involved,
although on HF it's far less than VHF and above. On HF,
reflection/refraction of the wave in the ionosphere pretty well rotates and
mixes the polarization.

Ron AC7AC



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Re: RE: Low Antenna on Mountain Top

Bill W4ZV
In reply to this post by Bill W4ZV
AC7AC  wrote:
 >a decent comparison with a horizontal
1/2 wave radiator can only be made with a
vertical 1/2 wave radiator

         The Par EF-20/40 ***IS*** a vertical 1/2 wave.

                                 73,  Bill  W4ZV

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RE: RE: Low Antenna on Mountain Top

Ron D'Eau Claire-2
         The Par EF-20/40 ***IS*** a vertical 1/2 wave.

                                 73,  Bill  W4ZV

------------------------------------------

Then it should be a good basis for comparison, at least on 20 meters.

Even the PAR EF-20/40 may not be comparable on 40 since it's physically only
a 1/4 wave long on 40 meters. Being electrically 1/2 wave long and
physically 1/2 wave long are two different things in terms of impedances and
efficiency.

Ron AC7AC



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routine question

David Morley W8IXY
In reply to this post by Bill W4ZV
when it come to RP3 on the main board instead of using the green hookup
wire, is it ok to use cut leads? they are easier to work with


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Re: routine question

Jim Younce
Dave wrote:
when it come to RP3 on the main board instead of using the green hookup
wire, is it ok to use cut leads? they are easier to work with

Dave:

Yes that is fine to use.  I usually use the hook up wire and install them
one at a time before removing the insulation. I just remove a 1/4" of
insulation and make a 90 degree bend and solder it in then trim it to the
1/2 length and pull the insulation off with my thumb and finger and then do
the next one until all 8 are done. This is an easy way to do it and you
still have something to hold on to if you don't cut the wires into eight
small pieces. There is nothing sacred about the length either.  You just
need enough to get it soldered to the RF Board.

73
Jim Younce K4ZM
K2  SN: 18


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RE: routine question

Don Wilhelm-3
In reply to this post by David Morley W8IXY
I routinely use cut off component leads on the thermistor board - simply
because they are laying there in the bench.  If you stick them into a black
foam block, you can get 3 or 4 aligned at one time before soldering (it is
just faster that way.

Another hint is to cut the 8 leads at an angle (so one end is full length
and the others are progressively shorter) and it is easier to insert the
leads into the holes.

73,
Don W3FPR

> -----Original Message-----
>
> when it come to RP3 on the main board instead of using the green hookup
> wire, is it ok to use cut leads? they are easier to work with
>
>
--
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Re: routine question

David Morley W8IXY
In reply to this post by David Morley W8IXY
it works for me. so far I am in the process of soldering the billion or so
caps in the main board and going on my 3rd tube of solder :)
all of the preliminary test are good I have issues with my DVM measuring to
1M ohm. but when the first assembly of the unit all resistance checks
perfect


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Re: routine question

Jack Brindle

On Aug 15, 2005, at 2:36 AM, David Morley W8IXY wrote:

> it works for me. so far I am in the process of soldering the  
> billion or so
> caps in the main board and going on my 3rd tube of solder :)

Tube of solder? What kind of solder are you using?

I guess I've never looked at anything but rolls. A one pound roll  
usually lasts me five or ten years...

- Jack Brindle, W6FB
------------------------------------------------------------------------
---------------------


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Re: routine question

Stuart Rohre
How about a roll of 1 lb. solder lasting 40 years?

If you do not use much solder on joints, it will last that long thru a dozen
kits and projects.

Stuart
K5KVH



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