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Re: Anderson Powerpoll connector

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KXBill

Re: Anderson Powerpoll connector

I guess my problem is: after reaching a certain age I have developed a bag full of skills, which have served me very well for over a half century. Installing small connectors is a piece of cake, that is until I came against the APP. Didn't think needed to read the instruction sheet. After all, I should be able to correctly install this with my bag of knowledge, right? Now that I have achieved a higher level of connector expertise, I still prefer the Molex, but that's me.
Also, something about having to buy a $30 crimper to do the right job tends to rub me in the wrong direction as well.
Thanks for the bandwidth.
BillHarris-w7kxb/7
(long live the KISS principal)

> From: [hidden email]
> Date: Thu, 24 Mar 2011 12:31:14 -0700
> To: [hidden email]
> Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Power Shut Down Resolved!
>
> When making up APP connectors, you have to be VERY sure that the little lip on the connecting pin (the part that's soldered onto the wire) extends completely into the plastic housing so that it locks itself over the metal part inside the plastic housing. Viewed from the side it looks something like this:
>
> =============\
> ------------- \
>
> where the double line (string of = signs) represents the connector that's soldered onto the wire, the diagonal slashes represent the lip at the end of that connector, and the single line of dashes represents the metal part of the plastic housing. If you can pull the wire out, it ain't locked in place.
>
> Once I realized this, I have never had a problem with APPs.
>
>
> Lew K6LMP
>

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AC7AC

Re: Anderson Powerpoll connector

CONTENTS DELETED

The author has deleted this message.

Bob K6UJ

Re: Anderson Powerpoll connector

Ron,
Maybe I'm too anal but I bought the "rather expensive" crimp tool,
and I crimp and also solder the PowerPole connectors. Maybe an overkill
but I sleep like a baby. :-)

Bob
K6UJ

On Mar 24, 2011, at 2:55 PM, Ron D'Eau Claire wrote:

> At the risk of re-energizing an old debate, I have *never* crimped a
> PowerPole connector and have *never* had a problem. All of mine are soldered
> just as Elecraft recommends if you don't have the correct crimp tool.
>
> In the APP Power Supply Cable Kit instruction sheet is a detailed cut-away
> drawing of how the APP connector contacts insert into the shell and lock for
> solid, reliable contact.
>
> Ron AC7AC
>
>
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
>
> I guess my problem is: after reaching a certain age I have developed a bag
> full of skills, which have served me very well for over a half century.
> Installing small connectors is a piece of cake, that is until I came against
> the APP. Didn't think needed to read the instruction sheet. After all, I
> should be able to correctly install this with my bag of knowledge, right?
> Now that I have achieved a higher level of connector expertise, I still
> prefer the Molex, but that's me.
> Also, something about having to buy a $30 crimper to do the right job tends
> to rub me in the wrong direction as well.
> Thanks for the bandwidth.
> BillHarris-w7kxb/7
> (long live the KISS principal)
>
>> From: [hidden email]
>> Date: Thu, 24 Mar 2011 12:31:14 -0700
>> To: [hidden email]
>> Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Power Shut Down Resolved!
>>
>> When making up APP connectors, you have to be VERY sure that the little
> lip on the connecting pin (the part that's soldered onto the wire) extends
> completely into the plastic housing so that it locks itself over the metal
> part inside the plastic housing. Viewed from the side it looks something
> like this:
>>
>> =============\
>> ------------- \
>>
>> where the double line (string of = signs) represents the connector that's
> soldered onto the wire, the diagonal slashes represent the lip at the end of
> that connector, and the single line of dashes represents the metal part of
> the plastic housing. If you can pull the wire out, it ain't locked in
> place.
>>
>> Once I realized this, I have never had a problem with APPs.
>>
>>
>> Lew K6LMP
>>
>
>
>
> ______________________________________________________________
> Elecraft mailing list
> Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft
> Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm
> Post: mailto:[hidden email]
>
> This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net
> Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
>
> ______________________________________________________________
> Elecraft mailing list
> Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft
> Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm
> Post: mailto:[hidden email]
>
> This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net
> Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html

Jeff Cochrane - VK4XA

Re: Anderson Powerpoll connector

In reply to this post by AC7AC

CONTENTS DELETED

The author has deleted this message.

Don Wilhelm-4

Re: Anderson Powerpoll connector

Jeff,

Something is wrong - the specification on the contact resistance of the
APP connectors is 600 microohms.
At a 20 amp current load, that should only result in a 0.012 volt drop
across the connector. Are you certain you are measuring correctly
(directly across the connector)? Or are you relying on the K2/K3
display voltage to determine the drop. Both have a series diode
in-line, and the displayed voltage will be less than the power supply
voltage - not due to the APP connector, but to the series diode.

73,
Don W3FPR

On 3/24/2011 6:08 PM, Jeff Cochrane - VK4BOF wrote:

> I have to admit that I am not a fan of APP's either.
> I just cannot relate to the voltage drop across the connectors when drawing 20+A.
> On my rig (with its factory built cable) it approaches 1.2 Volt. (And yes, the connectors do get warm!)
> Even with decent cables that I have made using 4mm wire and 45Amp PP connectors I still see .6 to .8V drop.
> That to my mind is not acceptable.
> So, once the warranty expires on my K3 (in May) I am going to ditch the APP's and solder a fly lead of 4mm twin lead wire directly to where the APP's were or look at some (better) alternatives.
>
>
> Jeff Cochrane - VK4BOF
> Elecraft K3 # 4257
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: Ron D'Eau Claire
> To: [hidden email]
> Sent: Friday, March 25, 2011 7:55 AM
> Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Anderson Powerpoll connector
>
>
> At the risk of re-energizing an old debate, I have *never* crimped a
> PowerPole connector and have *never* had a problem. All of mine are soldered
> just as Elecraft recommends if you don't have the correct crimp tool.
>
> In the APP Power Supply Cable Kit instruction sheet is a detailed cut-away
> drawing of how the APP connector contacts insert into the shell and lock for
> solid, reliable contact.
>
> Ron AC7AC
>
>
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
>
> I guess my problem is: after reaching a certain age I have developed a bag
> full of skills, which have served me very well for over a half century.
> Installing small connectors is a piece of cake, that is until I came against
> the APP. Didn't think needed to read the instruction sheet. After all, I
> should be able to correctly install this with my bag of knowledge, right?
> Now that I have achieved a higher level of connector expertise, I still
> prefer the Molex, but that's me.
> Also, something about having to buy a $30 crimper to do the right job tends
> to rub me in the wrong direction as well.
> Thanks for the bandwidth.
> BillHarris-w7kxb/7
> (long live the KISS principal)
>
> > From: [hidden email]
> > Date: Thu, 24 Mar 2011 12:31:14 -0700
> > To: [hidden email]
> > Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Power Shut Down Resolved!
> >
> > When making up APP connectors, you have to be VERY sure that the little
> lip on the connecting pin (the part that's soldered onto the wire) extends
> completely into the plastic housing so that it locks itself over the metal
> part inside the plastic housing. Viewed from the side it looks something
> like this:
> >
> > =============\
> > ------------- \
> >
> > where the double line (string of = signs) represents the connector that's
> soldered onto the wire, the diagonal slashes represent the lip at the end of
> that connector, and the single line of dashes represents the metal part of
> the plastic housing. If you can pull the wire out, it ain't locked in
> place.
> >
> > Once I realized this, I have never had a problem with APPs.
> >
> >
> > Lew K6LMP
> >
>
>
>
> ______________________________________________________________
> Elecraft mailing list
> Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft
> Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm
> Post: mailto:[hidden email]
>
> This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net
> Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
>
> ______________________________________________________________
> Elecraft mailing list
> Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft
> Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm
> Post: mailto:[hidden email]
>
> This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net
> Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
> ______________________________________________________________
> Elecraft mailing list
> Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft
> Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm
> Post: mailto:[hidden email]
>
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>

hf4me

Re: Anderson Powerpoll connector

"> Something is wrong - "No KIDDING !!!! Be very careful in blaming
something that your "test" procedure is accurate and not faulty. Sometimes
the eggs you get in your face are large enough to hurt.

73, de Jim KG0KP

----- Original Message -----
From: "Don Wilhelm" <[hidden email]>
To: "Jeff Cochrane - VK4BOF" <[hidden email]>
Cc: <[hidden email]>
Sent: Thursday, March 24, 2011 4:26 PM
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Anderson Powerpoll connector

> Jeff,
>
> Something is wrong - the specification on the contact resistance of the
> APP connectors is 600 microohms.
> At a 20 amp current load, that should only result in a 0.012 volt drop
> across the connector. Are you certain you are measuring correctly
> (directly across the connector)? Or are you relying on the K2/K3
> display voltage to determine the drop. Both have a series diode
> in-line, and the displayed voltage will be less than the power supply
> voltage - not due to the APP connector, but to the series diode.
>
> 73,
> Don W3FPR
>
> On 3/24/2011 6:08 PM, Jeff Cochrane - VK4BOF wrote:
>> I have to admit that I am not a fan of APP's either.
>> I just cannot relate to the voltage drop across the connectors when
>> drawing 20+A.
>> On my rig (with its factory built cable) it approaches 1.2 Volt. (And
>> yes, the connectors do get warm!)
>> Even with decent cables that I have made using 4mm wire and 45Amp PP
>> connectors I still see .6 to .8V drop.
>> That to my mind is not acceptable.
>> So, once the warranty expires on my K3 (in May) I am going to ditch the
>> APP's and solder a fly lead of 4mm twin lead wire directly to where the
>> APP's were or look at some (better) alternatives.
>>
>>
>> Jeff Cochrane - VK4BOF
>> Elecraft K3 # 4257
>> ----- Original Message -----
>> From: Ron D'Eau Claire
>> To: [hidden email]
>> Sent: Friday, March 25, 2011 7:55 AM
>> Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Anderson Powerpoll connector
>>
>>
>> At the risk of re-energizing an old debate, I have *never* crimped a
>> PowerPole connector and have *never* had a problem. All of mine are
>> soldered
>> just as Elecraft recommends if you don't have the correct crimp tool.
>>
>> In the APP Power Supply Cable Kit instruction sheet is a detailed
>> cut-away
>> drawing of how the APP connector contacts insert into the shell and
>> lock for
>> solid, reliable contact.
>>
>> Ron AC7AC
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> -----Original Message-----
>>
>> I guess my problem is: after reaching a certain age I have developed a
>> bag
>> full of skills, which have served me very well for over a half
>> century.
>> Installing small connectors is a piece of cake, that is until I came
>> against
>> the APP. Didn't think needed to read the instruction sheet. After
>> all, I
>> should be able to correctly install this with my bag of knowledge,
>> right?
>> Now that I have achieved a higher level of connector expertise, I
>> still
>> prefer the Molex, but that's me.
>> Also, something about having to buy a $30 crimper to do the right job
>> tends
>> to rub me in the wrong direction as well.
>> Thanks for the bandwidth.
>> BillHarris-w7kxb/7
>> (long live the KISS principal)
>>
>> > From: [hidden email]
>> > Date: Thu, 24 Mar 2011 12:31:14 -0700
>> > To: [hidden email]
>> > Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Power Shut Down Resolved!
>> >
>> > When making up APP connectors, you have to be VERY sure that the
>> little
>> lip on the connecting pin (the part that's soldered onto the wire)
>> extends
>> completely into the plastic housing so that it locks itself over the
>> metal
>> part inside the plastic housing. Viewed from the side it looks
>> something
>> like this:
>> >
>> > =============\
>> > ------------- \
>> >
>> > where the double line (string of = signs) represents the connector
>> that's
>> soldered onto the wire, the diagonal slashes represent the lip at the
>> end of
>> that connector, and the single line of dashes represents the metal
>> part of
>> the plastic housing. If you can pull the wire out, it ain't locked in
>> place.
>> >
>> > Once I realized this, I have never had a problem with APPs.
>> >
>> >
>> > Lew K6LMP
>> >
>>
>>
>>
>> ______________________________________________________________
>> Elecraft mailing list
>> Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft
>> Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm
>> Post: mailto:[hidden email]
>>
>> This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net
>> Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
>>
>> ______________________________________________________________
>> Elecraft mailing list
>> Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft
>> Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm
>> Post: mailto:[hidden email]
>>
>> This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net
>> Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
>> ______________________________________________________________
>> Elecraft mailing list
>> Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft
>> Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm
>> Post: mailto:[hidden email]
>>
>> This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net
>> Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
>>
> ______________________________________________________________
> Elecraft mailing list
> Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft
> Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm
> Post: mailto:[hidden email]
>
> This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net
> Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
>

Don Wilhelm-4

Re: Anderson Powerpoll connector

In reply to this post by AC7AC

Ron,

The same here. The APP offers a large contact area and low resistance
when properly assembled.
I think the key here is "properly assembled". For those who think that
"almost like the manual diagrams" is good enough, I have a revelation
for you - the APP connector must be "just like" the manual - if it is
not, you will experience "flakey (a technical term)" connections,
excessive voltage drops, and loose APP connector fittings.

Solder those connectors for lowest resistance, and do not get excessive
solder on the outside of the blade - that should allow you to assemble
the APP as indicated in the manual - if the blade does not click over
the locking tongue, it is not properly assembled.

BTW - all the radios I have with Molex connectors have a short DC cable
attached, and that short cable is terminated in an APP connector. No
problems with acquiring the "right" Molex connector and wiring it
correctly - just do it once and the APP genderless connectors take care
of the other potential problems.

73,
Don W3FPR

73,
Don W3FPR

On 3/24/2011 5:55 PM, Ron D'Eau Claire wrote:

> At the risk of re-energizing an old debate, I have *never* crimped a
> PowerPole connector and have *never* had a problem. All of mine are soldered
> just as Elecraft recommends if you don't have the correct crimp tool.
>
> In the APP Power Supply Cable Kit instruction sheet is a detailed cut-away
> drawing of how the APP connector contacts insert into the shell and lock for
> solid, reliable contact.
>
> Ron AC7AC
>
>
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
>
> I guess my problem is: after reaching a certain age I have developed a bag
> full of skills, which have served me very well for over a half century.
> Installing small connectors is a piece of cake, that is until I came against
> the APP. Didn't think needed to read the instruction sheet. After all, I
> should be able to correctly install this with my bag of knowledge, right?
> Now that I have achieved a higher level of connector expertise, I still
> prefer the Molex, but that's me.
> Also, something about having to buy a $30 crimper to do the right job tends
> to rub me in the wrong direction as well.
> Thanks for the bandwidth.
> BillHarris-w7kxb/7
> (long live the KISS principal)
>
>> From: [hidden email]
>> Date: Thu, 24 Mar 2011 12:31:14 -0700
>> To: [hidden email]
>> Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Power Shut Down Resolved!
>>
>> When making up APP connectors, you have to be VERY sure that the little
> lip on the connecting pin (the part that's soldered onto the wire) extends
> completely into the plastic housing so that it locks itself over the metal
> part inside the plastic housing. Viewed from the side it looks something
> like this:
>> =============\
>> ------------- \
>>
>> where the double line (string of = signs) represents the connector that's
> soldered onto the wire, the diagonal slashes represent the lip at the end of
> that connector, and the single line of dashes represents the metal part of
> the plastic housing. If you can pull the wire out, it ain't locked in
> place.
>> Once I realized this, I have never had a problem with APPs.
>>
>>
>> Lew K6LMP
>>
>
>
> ______________________________________________________________
> Elecraft mailing list
> Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft
> Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm
> Post: mailto:[hidden email]
>
> This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net
> Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
>
> ______________________________________________________________
> Elecraft mailing list
> Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft
> Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm
> Post: mailto:[hidden email]
>
> This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net
> Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
>

Gary Gregory

Re: Anderson Powerpoll connector

In reply to this post by Don Wilhelm-4

*Hi All,*
*
*
*I am not reading the same voltage drop as Jeff so maybe he is not getting a
correct reading.*
*
*
*Voltage drop on #679 is minimal..)....0.01*
*
*
*The display shows 0.3v from memory @ 100W*
*
*
*73's*
*Gary
*
On 25 March 2011 08:26, Don Wilhelm <[hidden email]> wrote:

> Jeff,
>
> Something is wrong - the specification on the contact resistance of the
> APP connectors is 600 microohms.
> At a 20 amp current load, that should only result in a 0.012 volt drop
> across the connector. Are you certain you are measuring correctly
> (directly across the connector)? Or are you relying on the K2/K3
> display voltage to determine the drop. Both have a series diode
> in-line, and the displayed voltage will be less than the power supply
> voltage - not due to the APP connector, but to the series diode.
>
> 73,
> Don W3FPR
>
> On 3/24/2011 6:08 PM, Jeff Cochrane - VK4BOF wrote:
> > I have to admit that I am not a fan of APP's either.
> > I just cannot relate to the voltage drop across the connectors when
> drawing 20+A.
> > On my rig (with its factory built cable) it approaches 1.2 Volt. (And
> yes, the connectors do get warm!)
> > Even with decent cables that I have made using 4mm wire and 45Amp PP
> connectors I still see .6 to .8V drop.
> > That to my mind is not acceptable.
> > So, once the warranty expires on my K3 (in May) I am going to ditch the
> APP's and solder a fly lead of 4mm twin lead wire directly to where the
> APP's were or look at some (better) alternatives.
> >
> >
> > Jeff Cochrane - VK4BOF
> > Elecraft K3 # 4257
> > ----- Original Message -----
> > From: Ron D'Eau Claire
> > To: [hidden email]
> > Sent: Friday, March 25, 2011 7:55 AM
> > Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Anderson Powerpoll connector
> >
> >
> > At the risk of re-energizing an old debate, I have *never* crimped a
> > PowerPole connector and have *never* had a problem. All of mine are
> soldered
> > just as Elecraft recommends if you don't have the correct crimp tool.
> >
> > In the APP Power Supply Cable Kit instruction sheet is a detailed
> cut-away
> > drawing of how the APP connector contacts insert into the shell and
> lock for
> > solid, reliable contact.
> >
> > Ron AC7AC
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > -----Original Message-----
> >
> > I guess my problem is: after reaching a certain age I have developed a
> bag
> > full of skills, which have served me very well for over a half
> century.
> > Installing small connectors is a piece of cake, that is until I came
> against
> > the APP. Didn't think needed to read the instruction sheet. After
> all, I
> > should be able to correctly install this with my bag of knowledge,
> right?
> > Now that I have achieved a higher level of connector expertise, I
> still
> > prefer the Molex, but that's me.
> > Also, something about having to buy a $30 crimper to do the right job
> tends
> > to rub me in the wrong direction as well.
> > Thanks for the bandwidth.
> > BillHarris-w7kxb/7
> > (long live the KISS principal)
> >
> > > From: [hidden email]
> > > Date: Thu, 24 Mar 2011 12:31:14 -0700
> > > To: [hidden email]
> > > Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Power Shut Down Resolved!
> > >
> > > When making up APP connectors, you have to be VERY sure that the
> little
> > lip on the connecting pin (the part that's soldered onto the wire)
> extends
> > completely into the plastic housing so that it locks itself over the
> metal
> > part inside the plastic housing. Viewed from the side it looks
> something
> > like this:
> > >
> > > =============\
> > > ------------- \
> > >
> > > where the double line (string of = signs) represents the connector
> that's
> > soldered onto the wire, the diagonal slashes represent the lip at the
> end of
> > that connector, and the single line of dashes represents the metal
> part of
> > the plastic housing. If you can pull the wire out, it ain't locked in
> > place.
> > >
> > > Once I realized this, I have never had a problem with APPs.
> > >
> > >
> > > Lew K6LMP
> > >
> >
> >
> >
> > ______________________________________________________________
> > Elecraft mailing list
> > Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft
> > Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm
> > Post: mailto:[hidden email]
> >
> > This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net
> > Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
> >
> > ______________________________________________________________
> > Elecraft mailing list
> > Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft
> > Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm
> > Post: mailto:[hidden email]
> >
> > This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net
> > Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
> > ______________________________________________________________
> > Elecraft mailing list
> > Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft
> > Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm
> > Post: mailto:[hidden email]
> >
> > This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net
> > Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
> >
> ______________________________________________________________
> Elecraft mailing list
> Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft
> Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm
> Post: mailto:[hidden email]
>
> This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net
> Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
>

--

*VK4FD - Motorhome Mobile
Elecraft Equipment
K3 #679, KPA-500 #018
Living the dream!!!*
______________________________________________________________
Elecraft mailing list
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Post: mailto:[hidden email]

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Jeff Cochrane - VK4XA

Re: Anderson Powerpoll connector

In reply to this post by Don Wilhelm-4

CONTENTS DELETED

The author has deleted this message.

Vic K2VCO

Re: Anderson Powerpoll connector

In reply to this post by AC7AC

I solder them too. What I do is push the wire up to the top of the contact, heat the
little tube, and apply solder to the very top, the part closest to the contact surface.

I'm careful to only use a minimum amount of solder. Because I've heated the tube, the
solder flows into it, not onto the contact surface.

This helps avoid the problem of the solder wicking back into the strands of the wire,
making a stiff section right at the connector which can break. I too have never had any
problems with these connectors.

I solder all kinds of things. It makes me feel secure. Crimps make me nervous.

On 3/24/2011 2:55 PM, Ron D'Eau Claire wrote:
> At the risk of re-energizing an old debate, I have *never* crimped a
> PowerPole connector and have *never* had a problem. All of mine are soldered
> just as Elecraft recommends if you don't have the correct crimp tool.
>
> In the APP Power Supply Cable Kit instruction sheet is a detailed cut-away
> drawing of how the APP connector contacts insert into the shell and lock for
> solid, reliable contact.
>
> Ron AC7AC

--
Vic, K2VCO
Fresno CA
http://www.qsl.net/k2vco/
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wayne burdick

Re: Anderson Powerpoll connector

Administrator

In reply to this post by Jeff Cochrane - VK4XA

Jeff,

I've never seen a drop anywhere near this size across an APP
connector. The contacts themselves are rated at something like 6
microohms resistance.

How are you measuring the drop? The K3's supply voltage display is not
a good way to measure the drop across just the connector, because the
voltage shown reflects several other components' voltage drops. These
include the reverse-polarity protection diode, the self-resetting fuse
for the low-power circuitry, and the current-sense resistor. On
keydown, even circuit traces will show a drop, as will the cable
between the rig and the power supply.

73,
Wayne
N6KR

On Mar 24, 2011, at 3:08 PM, Jeff Cochrane - VK4BOF wrote:

> I just cannot relate to the voltage drop across the connectors when
> drawing 20+A.
> On my rig (with its factory built cable) it approaches 1.2 Volt.
> (And yes, the connectors do get warm!)
> Even with decent cables that I have made using 4mm wire and 45Amp PP
> connectors I still see .6 to .8V drop.

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Tim McDonough N9PUZ

Re: Anderson Powerpoll connector

In reply to this post by Don Wilhelm-4

For what it's worth Anderson Power Products does not recommend that
PowerPoles be soldered. They are designed as a crimp connector. I have
both a West Mountain crimper which does a good job and a genuine
Anderson Power Products ratchet crimper that does a really excellent
job. I have never experienced a voltage drop like was described here on
properly installed connectors either in amateur radio equipment or in
high performance electric RC airplanes where the currents were in the
40A range.

Tim N9PUZ

On 3/24/2011 5:39 PM, Don Wilhelm wrote:

> Ron,
>
> The same here. The APP offers a large contact area and low resistance
> when properly assembled.
> I think the key here is "properly assembled". For those who think that
> "almost like the manual diagrams" is good enough, I have a revelation
> for you - the APP connector must be "just like" the manual - if it is
> not, you will experience "flakey (a technical term)" connections,
> excessive voltage drops, and loose APP connector fittings.
>
> Solder those connectors for lowest resistance, and do not get excessive
> solder on the outside of the blade - that should allow you to assemble
> the APP as indicated in the manual - if the blade does not click over
> the locking tongue, it is not properly assembled.
>
> BTW - all the radios I have with Molex connectors have a short DC cable
> attached, and that short cable is terminated in an APP connector. No
> problems with acquiring the "right" Molex connector and wiring it
> correctly - just do it once and the APP genderless connectors take care
> of the other potential problems.
>
> 73,
> Don W3FPR
>
> 73,
> Don W3FPR
>
> On 3/24/2011 5:55 PM, Ron D'Eau Claire wrote:
>> At the risk of re-energizing an old debate, I have *never* crimped a
>> PowerPole connector and have *never* had a problem. All of mine are soldered
>> just as Elecraft recommends if you don't have the correct crimp tool.
>>
>> In the APP Power Supply Cable Kit instruction sheet is a detailed cut-away
>> drawing of how the APP connector contacts insert into the shell and lock for
>> solid, reliable contact.
>>
>> Ron AC7AC
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> -----Original Message-----
>>
>> I guess my problem is: after reaching a certain age I have developed a bag
>> full of skills, which have served me very well for over a half century.
>> Installing small connectors is a piece of cake, that is until I came against
>> the APP. Didn't think needed to read the instruction sheet. After all, I
>> should be able to correctly install this with my bag of knowledge, right?
>> Now that I have achieved a higher level of connector expertise, I still
>> prefer the Molex, but that's me.
>> Also, something about having to buy a $30 crimper to do the right job tends
>> to rub me in the wrong direction as well.
>> Thanks for the bandwidth.
>> BillHarris-w7kxb/7
>> (long live the KISS principal)
>>
>>> From: [hidden email]
>>> Date: Thu, 24 Mar 2011 12:31:14 -0700
>>> To: [hidden email]
>>> Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Power Shut Down Resolved!
>>>
>>> When making up APP connectors, you have to be VERY sure that the little
>> lip on the connecting pin (the part that's soldered onto the wire) extends
>> completely into the plastic housing so that it locks itself over the metal
>> part inside the plastic housing. Viewed from the side it looks something
>> like this:
>>> =============\
>>> ------------- \
>>>
>>> where the double line (string of = signs) represents the connector that's
>> soldered onto the wire, the diagonal slashes represent the lip at the end of
>> that connector, and the single line of dashes represents the metal part of
>> the plastic housing. If you can pull the wire out, it ain't locked in
>> place.
>>> Once I realized this, I have never had a problem with APPs.
>>>
>>>
>>> Lew K6LMP
>>>
>>
>>
>> ______________________________________________________________
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Nate Bargmann

Re: Anderson Powerpoll connector

I concur, Crimp connectors should never be soldered under any
circumstances. Get the proper tool or use a solder type connector.

This valuable advice comes from both my professional and amateur
experience.

73, de Nate >>

--

"The optimist proclaims that we live in the best of all
possible worlds. The pessimist fears this is true."

Ham radio, Linux, bikes, and more: http://www.n0nb.us
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Julian, G4ILO

Re: Anderson Powerpoll connector

Nate Bargmann wrote

I concur, Crimp connectors should never be soldered under any
circumstances. Get the proper tool or use a solder type connector.

This valuable advice comes from both my professional and amateur
experience.

If that's the case, Elecraft should crimp the connectors on to the cable that comes with the kit K3. Expecting assemblers to buy a special tool just to fit two connectors is unreasonable.

Having said that, I soldered my connectors as advised like no doubt hundreds of other K3 assemblers and have not experienced any problems. If Elecraft think it's OK to solder the connectors I'm not going to disagree with them.

Julian, G4ILO. K2 #392 K3 #222 KX3 #110
* G4ILO's Shack - http://www.g4ilo.com
* KComm - http://www.g4ilo.com/kcomm.html
* KTune - http://www.g4ilo.com/ktune.html

Don Wilhelm-4

Re: Anderson Powerpoll connector

The most common reason for crimping instead of soldering is that the
solder will wick up the wire a little ways, and if the wire is subject
to being flexed, it will break right where the solder flow has ended.

I don't believe the typical K3 power cord is going to be constantly
flexed, so in this case soldering is just as good as crimping. For
situations where vibration or movement of the cable is likely (mobile
installation for example), then crimping would be the method of choice.

73,
Don W3FPR

On 3/25/2011 9:35 AM, Julian, G4ILO wrote:

> Nate Bargmann wrote:
>> I concur, Crimp connectors should never be soldered under any
>> circumstances. Get the proper tool or use a solder type connector.
>>
>> This valuable advice comes from both my professional and amateur
>> experience.
> If that's the case, Elecraft should crimp the connectors on to the cable
> that comes with the kit K3. Expecting assemblers to buy a special tool just
> to fit two connectors is unreasonable.
>
> Having said that, I soldered my connectors as advised like no doubt hundreds
> of other K3 assemblers and have not experienced any problems. If Elecraft
> think it's OK to solder the connectors I'm not going to disagree with them.
>
>

Jack Brabham KZ5A

Re: Anderson Powerpoll connector

In reply to this post by Nate Bargmann

I've never soldered an APP and have very few problems with them that
weren't a function of "operator error" on my part.

I use a set of Klein crimpers. It is important, at least with this
particular tool, to carefully "re-round" the shank and re-align the
tongue after crimping.

This whole issue is probably more a function of people assuming that the
voltage reported by the K3 is actually the supply voltage rather than an
internal voltage, than it is to do with APPs.

73 Jack KZ5A
K3 #4165

On 3/25/2011 7:28 AM, Nate Bargmann wrote:
> I concur, Crimp connectors should never be soldered under any
> circumstances. Get the proper tool or use a solder type connector.
>
> This valuable advice comes from both my professional and amateur
> experience.
>
> 73, de Nate>>
>

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Rick Stealey

Re: Anderson Powerpole connector

It's Powerpole not Powerpoll

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Bill K9YEQ

Re: Anderson Powerpoll connector

In reply to this post by Nate Bargmann

Nate,

I think it is ok to solder, but use some thick walled heat shrinking out a
distance from the connector to provide some strain relief. This would also
hold the poles together.

Bill
K9YEQ

-----Original Message-----
From: [hidden email]
[mailto:[hidden email]] On Behalf Of Nate Bargmann
Sent: Friday, March 25, 2011 7:29 AM
To: [hidden email]
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Anderson Powerpoll connector

I concur, Crimp connectors should never be soldered under any
circumstances. Get the proper tool or use a solder type connector.

This valuable advice comes from both my professional and amateur experience.

73, de Nate >>

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Jeff Herr

Re: Anderson Powerpole connector

In reply to this post by Rick Stealey

If those connectors were no good I would have to ask why every electric fork
lift on the planet uses that connector design?

How long would a connector last at your voltage drops while operating at 48
volts @ 200 amps? Can you imagine the heat dissipation?

Crimp the connector as specified!

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Kurt Cramer-2

Re: Anderson Powerpoll connector

In reply to this post by Jeff Cochrane - VK4XA

20 A with 1.2 volt drop? 24 watts, the connector would melt!
Kurt

> From: [hidden email]
> To: [hidden email]; [hidden email]
> Date: Fri, 25 Mar 2011 08:08:28 +1000
> Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Anderson Powerpoll connector
>
> I have to admit that I am not a fan of APP's either.
> I just cannot relate to the voltage drop across the connectors when drawing 20+A.
> On my rig (with its factory built cable) it approaches 1.2 Volt. (And yes, the connectors do get warm!)
> Even with decent cables that I have made using 4mm wire and 45Amp PP connectors I still see .6 to .8V drop.
> That to my mind is not acceptable.
> So, once the warranty expires on my K3 (in May) I am going to ditch the APP's and solder a fly lead of 4mm twin lead wire directly to where the APP's were or look at some (better) alternatives.
>
>
> Jeff Cochrane - VK4BOF
> Elecraft K3 # 4257
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: Ron D'Eau Claire
> To: [hidden email]
> Sent: Friday, March 25, 2011 7:55 AM
> Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Anderson Powerpoll connector
>
>
> At the risk of re-energizing an old debate, I have *never* crimped a
> PowerPole connector and have *never* had a problem. All of mine are soldered
> just as Elecraft recommends if you don't have the correct crimp tool.
>
> In the APP Power Supply Cable Kit instruction sheet is a detailed cut-away
> drawing of how the APP connector contacts insert into the shell and lock for
> solid, reliable contact.
>
> Ron AC7AC
>
>
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
>
> I guess my problem is: after reaching a certain age I have developed a bag
> full of skills, which have served me very well for over a half century.
> Installing small connectors is a piece of cake, that is until I came against
> the APP. Didn't think needed to read the instruction sheet. After all, I
> should be able to correctly install this with my bag of knowledge, right?
> Now that I have achieved a higher level of connector expertise, I still
> prefer the Molex, but that's me.
> Also, something about having to buy a $30 crimper to do the right job tends
> to rub me in the wrong direction as well.
> Thanks for the bandwidth.
> BillHarris-w7kxb/7
> (long live the KISS principal)
>
> > From: [hidden email]
> > Date: Thu, 24 Mar 2011 12:31:14 -0700
> > To: [hidden email]
> > Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Power Shut Down Resolved!
> >
> > When making up APP connectors, you have to be VERY sure that the little
> lip on the connecting pin (the part that's soldered onto the wire) extends
> completely into the plastic housing so that it locks itself over the metal
> part inside the plastic housing. Viewed from the side it looks something
> like this:
> >
> > =============\
> > ------------- \
> >
> > where the double line (string of = signs) represents the connector that's
> soldered onto the wire, the diagonal slashes represent the lip at the end of
> that connector, and the single line of dashes represents the metal part of
> the plastic housing. If you can pull the wire out, it ain't locked in
> place.
> >
> > Once I realized this, I have never had a problem with APPs.
> >
> >
> > Lew K6LMP
> >
>
>
>
> ______________________________________________________________
> Elecraft mailing list
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