Wayne,
It looks like somehow the plated thru-hole was damaged somehow - that is
unusual, but you proved it can happen. From your photo location, It
looks to be R12 instead of R18. R12 is an 820 ohm resistor, R18 is just
a jumper wire.
Looking at Tom Hammond's board images (available for download at
www.n0ss.net), that you are OK - solder it on the bottom side (same side
the resistor is located).
Just to make sure the entire network is intact, after soldering it (on
the bottom side), use your ohmmeter and check for continuity from that
lead to P2 pin 10, P4 pin 10, and the non-grounded side of C11 - put one
lead on R12 and the other lead on the points mentioned.
Just for completeness, check the other side of the resistor too - it
should show continuity to U6 pin 2.
If all those checks are OK, then you are "good to go" - if any of them
fail, you can use wire to connect the points that have no continuity -
all is not lost, it can be repaired.
If that solder pad lifted by just inserting the resistor lead, then the
thru-plated hole may have been defective (very unusual), but if the pad
lifted when you attempted to solder it, take note and turn your
soldering iron temperature down, it was too hot.
73,
Don W3FPR
On 4/16/2011 2:46 PM, Tom & Martha wrote:
> Hello Don,
> Recently I've decided to purchase a K2 in lieu of the K3. I'm pretty
> much just a cw and weak signal buff tending
> to work dx and participating in a few contests, I'm an active member
> of the SKCC (Straight Key Century Club).
> I mostly do my logging manually but would like to learn about logging
> via rig/computer control and the K2 should fit the bill.
> For many years my rig has been a TS830S but recently acquired a TS180S
> to play with and REALLY like it's solid state
> (very little) tuning....guess I'm getting lazy in my old age (70)!
> Anyway, my question is....how much do you charge to assemble a bare
> bones K2? Later, I will add the amp
> filters, etc. myself.
> 73
> W4TMW
> Tom Warren
> Hartwell, GA
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