Re: Elecraft Digest, Vol 161, Issue 23

[Pentti A J Pajunen]

YAW!
About the "Windom" -antenna. I have used this type of an antenna fed
with many kinds of twin-lead and A tuner. At sixties it was known as
W0WO -antenna. Working pretty well, I recommend.

73 & CU
Penna OH2G


[hidden email] kirjoitti 19.09.2017 klo 02:19:

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> Today's Topics:
>
>     1. R: K2 menu issue (IZ0DIO)
>     2. Re: R: K2 menu issue (Don Wilhelm)
>     3. R:  R: K2 menu issue (IZ0DIO)
>     4. Re: R:  R: K2 menu issue (Don Wilhelm)
>     5. R: R:  R: K2 menu issue (IZ0DIO)
>     6. Re: 630 MHz transmit and receive using the K3s or modified K3
>        (Edward R Cole)
>     7. OT:  Rohn 25G Tower on tilt base. (Terry Brown)
>     8. OT?   K3s - WSJTX - MMTTY conundrum (Gary Smith)
>     9. Re: OT: Rohn 25G Tower on tilt base. (Jim Brown)
>    10. Re: P3: Vertical Lines for display question (Al Lorona)
>    11. Re: K2 KSB2 low output ([hidden email])
>    12. Re: 630 MHz transmit and receive using the K3s or modified K3
>        (Wayne Burdick)
>    13. Re: OT? K3s - WSJTX - MMTTY conundrum (Don Wilhelm)
>    14. Re: OT? K3s - WSJTX - MMTTY conundrum (Don Wilhelm)
>    15. Re: OT? K3s - WSJTX - MMTTY conundrum (Wes Stewart)
>    16. Re: OT? K3s - WSJTX - MMTTY conundrum (Gary Smith)
>    17. OT: Street lights - for US hams only (Al Lorona)
>    18. K3 and KX3 on 630m/2200m (Roger Crofts)
>    19. Re: OT: Street lights - for US hams only (Matthew Cook)
>    20. Re: OT: Street lights - for US hams only (Jim Brown)
>    21. Re: OT?   K3s - WSJTX - MMTTY conundrum (Joe DeVincentis)
>    22. KPA500, KAT500 for sale (John Perlick)
>    23. WTB Elecraft K3S (K3) ([hidden email])
>    24. Question for Wayne about your OCF Dipole ([hidden email])
>    25. Re: Question for Wayne about your OCF Dipole (Wayne Burdick)
>    26. Re: Question for Wayne about your OCF Dipole (Don Sanders)
>
>
> ----------------------------------------------------------------------
>
> Message: 1
> Date: Sun, 17 Sep 2017 12:42:58 +0200
> From: "IZ0DIO" <[hidden email]>
> To: <[hidden email]>
> Subject: [Elecraft] R: K2 menu issue
> Message-ID: <000001d32fa1$bad1d430$30757c90$@yahoo.it>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
>
> Yes, Don. Consider also that this behavior is only for the ATU menu as all
> the others menu setting are correctly stored.
>
> Ciao
>
> Giorgio
>
>  
>
>  
>
> Da: IZ0DIO [mailto:[hidden email]]
> Inviato: domenica 17 settembre 2017 07:43
> A: '[hidden email]' <[hidden email]>
> Oggetto: K2 menu issue
>
>  
>
> I've a problem using my K2/100 with KAT100: every time I switch off K2 the
> ATU menu selection is not stored and switching on again the ATU selection is
> always on CAL, so I've to change it to AUTO in order to use KAT100.
>
> This is a very annoying situation: any suggestion?
>
> Thank you in advance
>
> IZ0DIO - Giorgio
>
>
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Message: 2
> Date: Sun, 17 Sep 2017 07:33:03 -0400
> From: Don Wilhelm <[hidden email]>
> To: IZ0DIO <[hidden email]>, [hidden email]
> Subject: Re: [Elecraft] R: K2 menu issue
> Message-ID: <[hidden email]>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=utf-8; format=flowed
>
> If you are exiting the menu correctly, then the problem is likely with a
> memory location in the EEPROM IC U7 on the control board.
> If you replace U7, you will have to do a Master Reset followed by CAL
> PLL and CAL FIL as well as re-entering all the other menu items.
> Download the K2 A to B instructions because that contains a chart to
> guide you in recording the menu entries.
>
> 73,
> Don W3FPR
>
> On 9/17/2017 6:42 AM, IZ0DIO via Elecraft wrote:
>> Yes, Don. Consider also that this behavior is only for the ATU menu as all
>> the others menu setting are correctly stored.
>>
>> Ciao
>>
>> Giorgio
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Message: 3
> Date: Sun, 17 Sep 2017 18:16:28 +0200
> From: "IZ0DIO" <[hidden email]>
> To: <[hidden email]>, <[hidden email]>
> Subject: [Elecraft] R:  R: K2 menu issue
> Message-ID: <000201d32fd0$520ca5e0$f625f1a0$@yahoo.it>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="UTF-8"
>
> Hello Don,
> thank you for your suggestion, but before desoldering U7 (not easy) and changing it I'd like to be sure that the problem is the EEPROM. It seem a little odd to me that this problem come only with the ATU setting and it's not so usual that a single EEPROM address is damaged. Another strange behavior is that pressing MENU after switching on the radio I have on the display always the first menu element  (ST L) and not the last one I accessed before to switch off the radio.
> Thank you for your help.
> Ciao
> Giorgio - IZ0DIO (also KW4NE)
>
> -----Messaggio originale-----
> Da: Don Wilhelm [mailto:[hidden email]]
> Inviato: domenica 17 settembre 2017 13:33
> A: IZ0DIO <[hidden email]>; [hidden email]
> Oggetto: Re: [Elecraft] R: K2 menu issue
>
> If you are exiting the menu correctly, then the problem is likely with a memory location in the EEPROM IC U7 on the control board.
> If you replace U7, you will have to do a Master Reset followed by CAL PLL and CAL FIL as well as re-entering all the other menu items.
> Download the K2 A to B instructions because that contains a chart to guide you in recording the menu entries.
>
> 73,
> Don W3FPR
>
> On 9/17/2017 6:42 AM, IZ0DIO via Elecraft wrote:
>> Yes, Don. Consider also that this behavior is only for the ATU menu as
>> all the others menu setting are correctly stored.
>>
>> Ciao
>>
>> Giorgio
>
> .
>
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Message: 4
> Date: Sun, 17 Sep 2017 12:36:28 -0400
> From: Don Wilhelm <[hidden email]>
> To: IZ0DIO <[hidden email]>, [hidden email]
> Subject: Re: [Elecraft] R:  R: K2 menu issue
> Message-ID: <[hidden email]>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=utf-8; format=flowed
>
> Georgio,
>
> The last menu selection does not survive a power cycle.? It is "sticky"
> until power off/on.
> ST L is the default selection upon initially entering the menu.
>
> Yes, you might have a bad address in the EEPROM.? Since you have to copy
> the menu settings anyway, try doing a Master Reset (hold the 3, 4, and 5
> buttons while powering on.
> If that does not fix it, replace CB U7.
>
> Once you have a replacement IC, cut the leads close to the IC body and
> remove the pins one at a time.
> Clean up with solder wick and if solder remains in the holes, heat the
> solder pad and push it out with a wooden toothpick or a stainless steel
> needle.
>
> 73,
> Don W3FPR
>
> On 9/17/2017 12:16 PM, IZ0DIO wrote:
>> Hello Don,
>> thank you for your suggestion, but before desoldering U7 (not easy) and changing it I'd like to be sure that the problem is the EEPROM. It seem a little odd to me that this problem come only with the ATU setting and it's not so usual that a single EEPROM address is damaged. Another strange behavior is that pressing MENU after switching on the radio I have on the display always the first menu element  (ST L) and not the last one I accessed before to switch off the radio.
>> Thank you for your help.
>>
>
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Message: 5
> Date: Sun, 17 Sep 2017 18:44:07 +0200
> From: "IZ0DIO" <[hidden email]>
> To: <[hidden email]>, <[hidden email]>
> Subject: [Elecraft] R: R:  R: K2 menu issue
> Message-ID: <000001d32fd4$2ecdfc60$8c69f520$@yahoo.it>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"
>
> Don,
> again thank you for your suggestions and information.
> I'll look for a new EEPROM and then I'll follow your recommendations (I know the procedure to unsolder an IC, but to be honest I'm not enthusiastic to use it).
> Ciao
> Giorgio - IZ0DIO & KW4NE
>
> -----Messaggio originale-----
> Da: Don Wilhelm [mailto:[hidden email]]
> Inviato: domenica 17 settembre 2017 18:36
> A: IZ0DIO <[hidden email]>; [hidden email]
> Oggetto: Re: R: [Elecraft] R: K2 menu issue
>
> Georgio,
>
> The last menu selection does not survive a power cycle.  It is "sticky"
> until power off/on.
> ST L is the default selection upon initially entering the menu.
>
> Yes, you might have a bad address in the EEPROM.  Since you have to copy the menu settings anyway, try doing a Master Reset (hold the 3, 4, and 5 buttons while powering on.
> If that does not fix it, replace CB U7.
>
> Once you have a replacement IC, cut the leads close to the IC body and remove the pins one at a time.
> Clean up with solder wick and if solder remains in the holes, heat the solder pad and push it out with a wooden toothpick or a stainless steel needle.
>
> 73,
> Don W3FPR
>
> On 9/17/2017 12:16 PM, IZ0DIO wrote:
>> Hello Don,
>> thank you for your suggestion, but before desoldering U7 (not easy) and changing it I'd like to be sure that the problem is the EEPROM. It seem a little odd to me that this problem come only with the ATU setting and it's not so usual that a single EEPROM address is damaged. Another strange behavior is that pressing MENU after switching on the radio I have on the display always the first menu element  (ST L) and not the last one I accessed before to switch off the radio.
>> Thank you for your help.
>>
>
> .
>
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Message: 6
> Date: Sun, 17 Sep 2017 11:01:05 -0800
> From: Edward R Cole <[hidden email]>
> To: Elecraft Reflector <[hidden email]>
> Subject: Re: [Elecraft] 630 MHz transmit and receive using the K3s or
> modified K3
> Message-ID: <[hidden email]>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"; format=flowed
>
> Thanks Wayne.
>
> I have been using my K3 (SN 4043) purchased in 2010 on 495 to 502 KHz
> from 2012 as part of the ARRL Experimental 500-KHz Group using
> experimental license WD2XSH/45.  Primarily using std CW or WSPR at
> about 4w ERP.  Our experimental license specified using power up to
> 20w ERP so one had to calculate from EIRP.
>
> New ham regs now use EIRP which is typically shown if modeling an
> antenna using EZNEC.  I modeled my 43-foot high by 122-foot long
> inverted-L which results in impedance at 503-KHz of Z = 0.83 -
> j886.5.  I measured the antenna using my modified MFJ-269B at 18 - j0
> after adjusting the base loading coil for resonance.
>
> Then get total radiated power from TPR = 0.83/18 * 100 = 4.6w  (note
> my amplifier is running 100w into 50-ohm load).
>   From EZNEC-5 antenna gain = 1.48 , EIRP = 4.6 * 1.48 = 6.8w
> ERP = 6.8/1.64 = 4.15w.  Thus my antenna efficiency is only 4%.
>
> My unmodified K3 will only operate down to 490-KHz but I have the new
> synth board and mod kit for the KBPF3 to install which will extend
> operation to the new 630m band (472-479 KHz).  I was able to get 1mw
> output with my unmodified K3 in TEST which I drove a modified NDB
> transmitter to 100w.  The NDB is an aircraft CW beacon with dual xtal
> LO separated by 400-Hz.  By CW keying that shift it produced a mcw
> signal.  I removed he LO and simply capacitively couple about 0.1 mw
> to fully drive the three stage amplifier.  I was able to pick up the
> NDB surplus for $40 which is self-contained with 55v PS.  I expect
> them to quickly be snatched up by 630 ops.
>
> I home made a 10-inch by 11-inch base coil wound 1/4 inch spacing on
> a plastic form to provide loading.  I have two taps which are moved
> between winter and summer soil conditions which shift the ground
> resistance enough to shift resonant frequency.  I got about 5-Hz SWR bandwidth.
>
> Previous to the new mods, I ran a SDR-IQ receiver and only
> transmitted with the K3.  I have picked up the CW signal from an
> Oregon station and my signal has been detected as far as Buffalo, NY.
>
> AFAIK only two commercial radio will operate on our new ham
> band:  K3s (and mod K3) or theTS590.  This opens a market for
> entrepreneurs to provide preamps, amplifiers and transverters.  Puts
> Elecraft ahead of the "crowd", again!
>
> NOTE:  FCC requires pre-registering with UTC before operating on
> 630m.  Its a 30-day process.  I'm waiting for my approval.
>
>
>
> 73, Ed - KL7UW
>     http://www.kl7uw.com
> Dubus-NA Business mail:
>     [hidden email]
>
>
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Message: 7
> Date: Sun, 17 Sep 2017 12:28:46 -0700
> From: Terry Brown <[hidden email]>
> To: [hidden email]
> Subject: [Elecraft] OT:  Rohn 25G Tower on tilt base.
> Message-ID: <[hidden email]>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
>
> Hello All,
>
> Please reply to me directly if you would please.  We have far too many OT threads that take on a life of their own.
>
> I own a KX2, KX3, PX3, KXPA100, and K2. I love my Elecraft rigs. I have learned much from this list so thought I would ask a question.
>
> Background:  I took down my 50 ft. Rohn 25G tower and Cushcraft ATB-34 beam (old) when I sold my house.  I am building a new home and I am considering two setups for my tower.  I don't want to climb a tower anymore and I am trying to keep my XYL happy by not putting up so tall a tower. I know it won't perform as well as before.
>
> Four horizontal ft. of my roof will be 23 ft. above the ground. The peak to the east is about 12 ft. from the tower.  The rest of the roof is 20 ft. from the ground.  The yard slopes downward to the east.   The house is high on a hill looking east.  To the west the ground is gently sloping up.
>
> I know my proposed free height (8-11 ft.) above the roof isn't ideal.  Since I already have 5 sections of tower, I want to try to use them. Here are my two ideas.
>
> 1.  Putting up two 10 ft. sections and a top 9 ft. section of Rohn 25G. I will mount a new Mosley TA 33-JR. on it with a mast putting the beam 2 ft. above the top section.  This would put the beam about 31 ft. above the ground.  My rotator is my reconditioned Alliance HD-73.  I estimate the total weight of tower and beam at just under 200 lbs.
>
> I would like to put it on a tilt over base, either custom built or the Rohn if it can take the load.
>
> The tower would be attached to the house at the 13 ft. level, leaving 16 ft. unguyed.  I would have a pulley system at the 12 ft level of the house to lower the tower.
>
> Is this setup something that will work?  I am concerned about the load on the hinge on the base as the tower tilts over.
>
> 2.  Put up one section of 10 ft. tower and a top section. Put an aluminum mast in place that sticks up 12 ft. above the top section.   Everything else is the same. This reduces the weight a bit and has only 6 ft of unguyed tower.   I just don't know how well 12 ft of mast above the top section will work.
>
> I would appreciate any advice anyone could give me.
>
> Thanks!
>
> Terry
> N7TB
>
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Message: 8
> Date: Sun, 17 Sep 2017 15:37:04 -0400
> From: "Gary Smith" <[hidden email]>
> To: [hidden email]
> Subject: [Elecraft] OT?   K3s - WSJTX - MMTTY conundrum
> Message-ID: <[hidden email]>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=US-ASCII
>
> Hard to enter a short subject that is
> complete...
>
> Have a K3s using USB to the computer & the
> internal card for digital modes.
>
> I wanted to work a few Q's in the RTTY
> contest and have been using WSJT-X for FT8
> contacts.
>
> In the K3s WSJTX requires Data A for FT8
> and in MMTTY it requires AFSK A (45BPS is
> normal).
>
> I went to use MMTTY after using WSJTX and
> with an excellent scope copy of the RTTY
> signals, gibberish is on the screen. I
> tried Reverse; REV in MMTTY and tried ALT
> in the K3 and no benefit. I tried so many
> things to decode in MMTTY but nothing
> worked until some random change in a K3s
> setting worked and then perfect copy as
> usual.
>
> I later clicked on WSJT to make a Q, the
> radio complied and switched to the
> settings for WSJT and when I went back to
> MMTTY, the copy was again gibberish. I
> don't recall what it was I did to set the
> K3s back so MMTTY can decode RTTY I did
> return it to AFSK A 45 but nothing
> decodes.
>
> It was a K3 setting that made the
> difference but I have no idea what it was
> I chanced on. anyone work out this issue
> yet when switching from WSJTX to MMTTY &
> the change in settings then required in
> the K3s?
>
> Thanks & 73,
>
> Gary
> KA1J
>
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Message: 9
> Date: Sun, 17 Sep 2017 12:41:25 -0700
> From: Jim Brown <[hidden email]>
> To: [hidden email]
> Subject: Re: [Elecraft] OT: Rohn 25G Tower on tilt base.
> Message-ID:
> <[hidden email]>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=utf-8; format=flowed
>
> On 9/17/2017 12:28 PM, Terry Brown wrote:
>> Please reply to me directly if you would please.  We have far too many OT threads that take on a life of their own.
> The Tower Talk reflector would be a great place to get this sort of advice.
>
> TowerTalk mailing list
> [hidden email]
> http://lists.contesting.com/mailman/listinfo/towertalk
>
> 73, Jim K9YC
>
>
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Message: 10
> Date: Sun, 17 Sep 2017 21:16:47 +0000 (UTC)
> From: Al Lorona <[hidden email]>
> To: Dave Cole <[hidden email]>, "[hidden email]"
> <[hidden email]>
> Subject: Re: [Elecraft] P3: Vertical Lines for display question
> Message-ID: <[hidden email]>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=UTF-8
>
> You guys may already know this, but there exists software that can read a graph and generate data from it. For instance, it can turn a plot on a device's PDF datasheet into real data. Just Google it. The one I've seen electronics people using is called "engauge".
>
> Al  W6LX
>
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Message: 11
> Date: Sun, 17 Sep 2017 23:34:35 +0200
> From: [hidden email]
> To: [hidden email]
> Subject: Re: [Elecraft] K2 KSB2 low output
> Message-ID: <[hidden email]>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=utf-8; format=flowed
>
> Solved: PIC16C72A was defective.
> I had the chance to get a second K2 for reference testing. The KSB2 of
> that K2 works perfectly in my K2, but not vice versa. The error is
> isolated to my KSB2, but now I'd need to seek for the culprit.
> I noticed a strange behavior at U1.16, which drives the DAC-Converter
> for PWR-Level and ALC-THR. Yes, thats the PIC. I pulled out my old
> PICStart programmer, cloned the PIC of the working K2 and programmed a
> PIC16F876A which I had in the box. And here we go, full output power again!
>
> 73/72 Gernot DF5RF
>
>
>
> Am 12.09.2017 um 22:59 schrieb [hidden email]:
>> Hello again,
>>
>> Thanks to Volker, DL4ZBG, he replied directly with the following link:
>> http://www.qrpproject.de/Media/pdf/ZusammenfassungMods.pdf
>> It is a nice description of many improvements that can be made for the
>> KSB2.
>> However, I believe that I do have a fault in the KSB2 (Rev. D) or K2,
>> since I know it behaved differently years ago. For example, the ALC
>> shows 7 steady bars, no matter what power level I set nor how much SSB
>> amplitude is produced. Regardless of the power level set, the RF
>> signal is never stronger than 1 bar.
>> I will try to experiment further, and I'm open to get any hints.
>> Thanks!
>>
>> Gernot, DF5RF
>>
>>
>> Am 12.09.2017 um 01:53 schrieb [hidden email]:
>>> Hello list,
>>> I recently tried to use my K2 on SSB. To my suprise, there was very
>>> little output. Even with full power it only showed the first bar. I
>>> did some SSB QSOs during the first years...
>>> Digging deeper, I found the DSB signal showed a Vpp of ~1V, but after
>>> the filter the SSB signal was only 20mV or so. Is this kind of loss
>>> normal for a 7-pole filter? If not, any hints how to repair the filter?
>>> tnx es 73
>>> Gernot DF5RF
>>>
>>> ______________________________________________________________
>>> Elecraft mailing list
>>> Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft
>>> Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm
>>> Post: mailto:[hidden email]
>>>
>>> This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net
>>> Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
>>> Message delivered to [hidden email]
>>>
>> ______________________________________________________________
>> Elecraft mailing list
>> Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft
>> Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm
>> Post: mailto:[hidden email]
>>
>> This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net
>> Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
>> Message delivered to [hidden email]
>>
>
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Message: 12
> Date: Sun, 17 Sep 2017 15:02:59 -0700
> From: Wayne Burdick <[hidden email]>
> To: Edward R Cole <[hidden email]>
> Cc: Elecraft Reflector <[hidden email]>
> Subject: Re: [Elecraft] 630 MHz transmit and receive using the K3s or
> modified K3
> Message-ID: <[hidden email]>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
>
> Thanks for the info, Ed. I'm going to have to figure out my own antenna for this band.
>
> Wayne
> N6KR
>
> ----
> http://www.elecraft.com
>
>> On Sep 17, 2017, at 12:01 PM, Edward R Cole <[hidden email]> wrote:
>>
>> Thanks Wayne.
>>
>> I have been using my K3 (SN 4043) purchased in 2010 on 495 to 502 KHz from 2012 as part of the ARRL Experimental 500-KHz Group using experimental license WD2XSH/45.  Primarily using std CW or WSPR at about 4w ERP.  Our experimental license specified using power up to 20w ERP so one had to calculate from EIRP.
>>
>> New ham regs now use EIRP which is typically shown if modeling an antenna using EZNEC.  I modeled my 43-foot high by 122-foot long inverted-L which results in impedance at 503-KHz of Z = 0.83 - j886.5.  I measured the antenna using my modified MFJ-269B at 18 - j0 after adjusting the base loading coil for resonance.
>>
>> Then get total radiated power from TPR = 0.83/18 * 100 = 4.6w  (note my amplifier is running 100w into 50-ohm load).
>>  From EZNEC-5 antenna gain = 1.48 , EIRP = 4.6 * 1.48 = 6.8w
>> ERP = 6.8/1.64 = 4.15w.  Thus my antenna efficiency is only 4%.
>>
>> My unmodified K3 will only operate down to 490-KHz but I have the new synth board and mod kit for the KBPF3 to install which will extend operation to the new 630m band (472-479 KHz).  I was able to get 1mw output with my unmodified K3 in TEST which I drove a modified NDB transmitter to 100w.  The NDB is an aircraft CW beacon with dual xtal LO separated by 400-Hz.  By CW keying that shift it produced a mcw signal.  I removed he LO and simply capacitively couple about 0.1 mw to fully drive the three stage amplifier.  I was able to pick up the NDB surplus for $40 which is self-contained with 55v PS.  I expect them to quickly be snatched up by 630 ops.
>>
>> I home made a 10-inch by 11-inch base coil wound 1/4 inch spacing on a plastic form to provide loading.  I have two taps which are moved between winter and summer soil conditions which shift the ground resistance enough to shift resonant frequency.  I got about 5-Hz SWR bandwidth.
>>
>> Previous to the new mods, I ran a SDR-IQ receiver and only transmitted with the K3.  I have picked up the CW signal from an Oregon station and my signal has been detected as far as Buffalo, NY.
>>
>> AFAIK only two commercial radio will operate on our new ham band:  K3s (and mod K3) or theTS590.  This opens a market for entrepreneurs to provide preamps, amplifiers and transverters.  Puts Elecraft ahead of the "crowd", again!
>>
>> NOTE:  FCC requires pre-registering with UTC before operating on 630m.  Its a 30-day process.  I'm waiting for my approval.
>>
>>
>>
>> 73, Ed - KL7UW
>>   http://www.kl7uw.com
>> Dubus-NA Business mail:
>>   [hidden email]
>> ______________________________________________________________
>> Elecraft mailing list
>> Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft
>> Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm
>> Post: mailto:[hidden email]
>>
>> This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net
>> Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
>> Message delivered to [hidden email]
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Message: 13
> Date: Sun, 17 Sep 2017 18:13:03 -0400
> From: Don Wilhelm <[hidden email]>
> To: [hidden email], [hidden email]
> Subject: Re: [Elecraft] OT? K3s - WSJTX - MMTTY conundrum
> Message-ID: <[hidden email]>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=utf-8; format=flowed
>
> Gary,
>
> What bandwidth are you using in AFSK A.  Normally it defaults to 400 to
> 500 Hz, but your switch from DATA A to AFSK A may be confusing it.
> I cannot speak to interaction between WSJTX and MMTTY, but you may find
> something there in the switchover.
>
> Normally in MMTTY, you tune to a specific signal where in WSJTX you are
> setting to a wide bandwidth to view the waterfall of all signals in the
> passband.
>
> This is only a guess.  Some control programs send commands to the K3 in
> the wrong order - changing modes before making a band change is one
> instance - that does not work with the K3/K3S.
>
> 73,
> Don W3FPR
>
> On 9/17/2017 3:37 PM, Gary Smith wrote:
>> Hard to enter a short subject that is
>> complete...
>>
>> Have a K3s using USB to the computer & the
>> internal card for digital modes.
>>
>> I wanted to work a few Q's in the RTTY
>> contest and have been using WSJT-X for FT8
>> contacts.
>>
>> In the K3s WSJTX requires Data A for FT8
>> and in MMTTY it requires AFSK A (45BPS is
>> normal).
>>
>> I went to use MMTTY after using WSJTX and
>> with an excellent scope copy of the RTTY
>> signals, gibberish is on the screen. I
>> tried Reverse; REV in MMTTY and tried ALT
>> in the K3 and no benefit. I tried so many
>> things to decode in MMTTY but nothing
>> worked until some random change in a K3s
>> setting worked and then perfect copy as
>> usual.
>>
>> I later clicked on WSJT to make a Q, the
>> radio complied and switched to the
>> settings for WSJT and when I went back to
>> MMTTY, the copy was again gibberish. I
>> don't recall what it was I did to set the
>> K3s back so MMTTY can decode RTTY I did
>> return it to AFSK A 45 but nothing
>> decodes.
>>
>> It was a K3 setting that made the
>> difference but I have no idea what it was
>> I chanced on. anyone work out this issue
>> yet when switching from WSJTX to MMTTY &
>> the change in settings then required in
>> the K3s?
>>
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Message: 14
> Date: Sun, 17 Sep 2017 19:28:50 -0400
> From: Don Wilhelm <[hidden email]>
> To: [hidden email], [hidden email]
> Subject: Re: [Elecraft] OT? K3s - WSJTX - MMTTY conundrum
> Message-ID: <[hidden email]>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=utf-8; format=flowed
>
> Gary,
>
> One thing to check is when you change from WSJTX to MMTTY, does the K3
> data mode change to AFSK A in LSB mode?  If not, the software is to
> blame.  The sequence of commands (or lack of commands) sent to the K3
> may be part of the problem.
>
> You certainly can use DATA A for RTTY if you shift to the ALT sideband,
> but the bandwidth will likely be set wide.
>
> Where are you trying o decode? on the K3 or on MMTTY?
>
> 73,
> Don W3FPR
>
> On 9/17/2017 3:37 PM, Gary Smith wrote:
>> Hard to enter a short subject that is
>> complete...
>>
>> Have a K3s using USB to the computer & the
>> internal card for digital modes.
>>
>> I wanted to work a few Q's in the RTTY
>> contest and have been using WSJT-X for FT8
>> contacts.
>>
>> In the K3s WSJTX requires Data A for FT8
>> and in MMTTY it requires AFSK A (45BPS is
>> normal).
>>
>> I went to use MMTTY after using WSJTX and
>> with an excellent scope copy of the RTTY
>> signals, gibberish is on the screen. I
>> tried Reverse; REV in MMTTY and tried ALT
>> in the K3 and no benefit. I tried so many
>> things to decode in MMTTY but nothing
>> worked until some random change in a K3s
>> setting worked and then perfect copy as
>> usual.
>>
>> I later clicked on WSJT to make a Q, the
>> radio complied and switched to the
>> settings for WSJT and when I went back to
>> MMTTY, the copy was again gibberish. I
>> don't recall what it was I did to set the
>> K3s back so MMTTY can decode RTTY I did
>> return it to AFSK A 45 but nothing
>> decodes.
>>
>> It was a K3 setting that made the
>> difference but I have no idea what it was
>> I chanced on. anyone work out this issue
>> yet when switching from WSJTX to MMTTY &
>> the change in settings then required in
>> the K3s?
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Message: 15
> Date: Sun, 17 Sep 2017 16:40:48 -0700
> From: Wes Stewart <[hidden email]>
> To: [hidden email]
> Subject: Re: [Elecraft] OT? K3s - WSJTX - MMTTY conundrum
> Message-ID: <[hidden email]>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=utf-8; format=flowed
>
> Make sure the pitch in the K3 matches MMTTY.
>
> On 9/17/2017 12:37 PM, Gary Smith wrote:
>> Hard to enter a short subject that is
>> complete...
>>
>
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Message: 16
> Date: Sun, 17 Sep 2017 21:14:55 -0400
> From: "Gary Smith" <[hidden email]>
> To: [hidden email]
> Subject: Re: [Elecraft] OT? K3s - WSJTX - MMTTY conundrum
> Message-ID: <[hidden email]>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=US-ASCII
>
> Don & Wes,
>
> I'm stymied by what caused the problem.
> Sometimes using N1MM with MMTTY there is a
> bit of software change and PTT-KEY change
> but never just running MMTTY alone with
> the K3s. When I went to N1MM it was with
> AFSK A and it was already in the data mode
> as my last 20M Q was with WSJTX.
> Everything seemed normal in every way
> except garbage was what was being sent to
> the screen.
>
> Finally I tried to have the K3s decipher
> by changing the DATA MD to FSK D. Now the
> K3 was not deciphering either. Based on a
> suggestion that mentioned on-off... I shut
> down WSJT and MMTTY and retried and it
> worked for decode on MMTTY. Why that would
> have an effect on the K3s decoding I have
> no idea.
>
> I'll revisit the issue later this week,
> there's a RTTY contest coming up but for
> now while things are working, I'll enjoy
> the air a bit & make a few more Qs. If I
> find out anything helpful, I'll post that
> here for anyone with the same issues,
> later.
>
> 73 and thanks,
>
> Gary
> KA1J
>
>
>
>
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Message: 17
> Date: Mon, 18 Sep 2017 05:16:13 +0000 (UTC)
> From: Al Lorona <[hidden email]>
> To: Elecraft Reflector <[hidden email]>
> Subject: [Elecraft] OT: Street lights - for US hams only
> Message-ID: <[hidden email]>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=UTF-8
>
> Yellow sodium vapor street lights can be a significant source of nighttime RFI on the lower bands. They are ignited at dusk by an RF arc that typically lasts between 5 and 10 seconds, the lamp lights, and the arc is extinguished. This arc noise sounds like a constant, dense static and is easily seen as a higher noise floor of up to 10 dB on the screen of a P3 panadapter or equivalent, depending on how far the street light is from your antenna.
>
> The problem occurs when the lamp reaches end-of-life. After turning on for the first time in the evening it will go off again after a period of seconds or minutes and must be ignited again.  Therefore, every so often the noise floor suddenly rises, stays there for some time, and then returns to normal after the lamp re-lights. This cycle can repeat several dozen or hundred times per evening until it turns off for good at sunrise. 160, 80 and 60 meters are the bands most affected by these lights.
>
> I have been able to lower my ambient noise floor by several dB by going out on 'street light patrol' at night, armed with a flashlight, MP3 recorder and roll of bright orange tape. I drive around out to about a mile from my house looking for street lights that are cycling on and off. An efficient way to do this is to look for street lights that are off and watch them for a few minutes to see if they come on again, while listening on the car's AM radio for the characteristic interference. When I find an offending light, I use the flashlight and record the location, pole number, and any other important information on the audio recorder. Then I mark the pole with the bright orange marker tape and continue to search for other lights. On a good night, I can find 5 or more lights within a radius that I know can cause RFI at home. I have found that lights a half mile away will raise the noise floor only a couple of dB, while those within a block or two can add 10 dB to the noise f

 lo

>   or.
>
> My local electric utility has a web site to report street light outages. I simply log in and transfer the information from the MP3 recordings to the form on the web site and submit the report. I'm extremely fortunate that my utility, Southern California Edison, faithfully replaces lamps within a business week of my report. They like several reports at once which makes it worth their while to spend a day replacing lights in one area, and they also appreciate the orange markers which helps them sight the poles easily.
>
> A few poles in my city are owned by the city, not the electric utility. In that case, I have made friends with the city worker in charge of taking outage reports and so I have someone to e-mail my reports to. Interestingly, the city can take several weeks to replace a bad lamp. [Government always seems to be less efficient than business.]
>
>
> I encourage you to be vigilant for sodium vapor street lights that could be a large source of HF nighttime interference for you.
>
>
> Al  W6LX
>
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Message: 18
> Date: Mon, 18 Sep 2017 16:02:49 +1000
> From: "Roger Crofts" <[hidden email]>
> To: <[hidden email]>
> Subject: [Elecraft] K3 and KX3 on 630m/2200m
> Message-ID: <51C4EFBAD9374C38BC5B709F67A18F34@RogerOLD>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1"
>
> I have been running both my K3 and KX3 on 630m and 2200m for the last 18 months using commercially available Transverters. The transverters require 5 watts of drive and it is easy to adjust to this output on both of the Elecraft rigs. Just search for 630m band transverter, or 2200m band transverter. OK, I confess, I own Monitor Sensors! 73 Roger, VK4YB.
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Message: 19
> Date: Mon, 18 Sep 2017 15:57:42 +0930
> From: Matthew Cook <[hidden email]>
> To: Al Lorona <[hidden email]>
> Cc: Elecraft Reflector <[hidden email]>
> Subject: Re: [Elecraft] OT: Street lights - for US hams only
> Message-ID:
> <CAE+2d_3RJNV+M3QL14Ljx3f=[hidden email]>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="UTF-8"
>
> Be thankful that you're not seeing your sodium lamps replaced with LED
> solutions, the number of streetlights in the average suburb are quite
> simply staggering.
>
> Don't think for a second that these LED lamps were designed for low noise
> or that compliance with EMC standards will prevent unwanted interactions.
>
> A single LED luminaire is permitted to conduct and or radiate RF across HF
> up to and including 50dBuV, which equates to S9+15dB  (S9 ~ 34dBuV into
> 50ohms).
>
> I'm now resigned to moving my HF station out and into a remote location
> that doesn't have these nasties with a bulls roar of my receiver..
>
> Sad but true.
>
> 73
>
> Matthew
> VK5ZM
>
> On 18 September 2017 at 14:46, Al Lorona <[hidden email]> wrote:
>
>> Yellow sodium vapor street lights can be a significant source of nighttime
>> RFI on the lower bands. They are ignited at dusk by an RF arc that
>> typically lasts between 5 and 10 seconds, the lamp lights, and the arc is
>> extinguished. This arc noise sounds like a constant, dense static and is
>> easily seen as a higher noise floor of up to 10 dB on the screen of a P3
>> panadapter or equivalent, depending on how far the street light is from
>> your antenna.
>>
>> The problem occurs when the lamp reaches end-of-life. After turning on for
>> the first time in the evening it will go off again after a period of
>> seconds or minutes and must be ignited again.  Therefore, every so often
>> the noise floor suddenly rises, stays there for some time, and then returns
>> to normal after the lamp re-lights. This cycle can repeat several dozen or
>> hundred times per evening until it turns off for good at sunrise. 160, 80
>> and 60 meters are the bands most affected by these lights.
>>
>> I have been able to lower my ambient noise floor by several dB by going
>> out on 'street light patrol' at night, armed with a flashlight, MP3
>> recorder and roll of bright orange tape. I drive around out to about a mile
>> from my house looking for street lights that are cycling on and off. An
>> efficient way to do this is to look for street lights that are off and
>> watch them for a few minutes to see if they come on again, while listening
>> on the car's AM radio for the characteristic interference. When I find an
>> offending light, I use the flashlight and record the location, pole number,
>> and any other important information on the audio recorder. Then I mark the
>> pole with the bright orange marker tape and continue to search for other
>> lights. On a good night, I can find 5 or more lights within a radius that I
>> know can cause RFI at home. I have found that lights a half mile away will
>> raise the noise floor only a couple of dB, while those within a block or
>> two can add 10 dB to the noise flo
>>   or.
>>
>> My local electric utility has a web site to report street light outages. I
>> simply log in and transfer the information from the MP3 recordings to the
>> form on the web site and submit the report. I'm extremely fortunate that my
>> utility, Southern California Edison, faithfully replaces lamps within a
>> business week of my report. They like several reports at once which makes
>> it worth their while to spend a day replacing lights in one area, and they
>> also appreciate the orange markers which helps them sight the poles easily.
>>
>> A few poles in my city are owned by the city, not the electric utility. In
>> that case, I have made friends with the city worker in charge of taking
>> outage reports and so I have someone to e-mail my reports to.
>> Interestingly, the city can take several weeks to replace a bad lamp.
>> [Government always seems to be less efficient than business.]
>>
>>
>> I encourage you to be vigilant for sodium vapor street lights that could
>> be a large source of HF nighttime interference for you.
>>
>>
>> Al  W6LX
>> ______________________________________________________________
>> Elecraft mailing list
>> Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft
>> Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm
>> Post: mailto:[hidden email]
>>
>> This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net
>> Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
>> Message delivered to [hidden email]
>>
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Message: 20
> Date: Mon, 18 Sep 2017 00:25:49 -0700
> From: Jim Brown <[hidden email]>
> To: [hidden email]
> Subject: Re: [Elecraft] OT: Street lights - for US hams only
> Message-ID:
> <[hidden email]>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=utf-8; format=flowed
>
> On 9/17/2017 11:27 PM, Matthew Cook wrote:
>> A single LED luminaire is permitted to conduct and or radiate RF across HF
>> up to and including 50dBuV, which equates to S9+15dB  (S9 ~ 34dBuV into
>> 50ohms).
> LEDs are low voltage devices, and the culprit is NOT the LEDs, but
> rather the SMPS (switch-mode power supply) used to convert the AC line
> voltage to the low DC voltage needed by the LEDs. OR, to be really
> cheap, only a step-down transformer driving the LEDs with no rectifier
> other than the LED itself.
>
> BTW -- the ideal destination for posts like this and the one from W6LX
> is to the RFI reflector.
>
> [hidden email]
> http://lists.contesting.com/mailman/listinfo/rfi
>
> 73, Jim K9YC
>
>
>
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Message: 21
> Date: Mon, 18 Sep 2017 07:18:21 -0500
> From: Joe DeVincentis <[hidden email]>
> To: Elecraft Mailing List <[hidden email]>
> Subject: Re: [Elecraft] OT?   K3s - WSJTX - MMTTY conundrum
> Message-ID: <[hidden email]>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=utf-8
>
> I was doing the exact same thing.  I was done with my FT8 and wanted to check things out for this weekend?s contest.  I could see lots of RTTY on the P3.  So I tuned some of the stations with MTTY and no decode.  I did eventually find one station that was decoding.  It was a W7 station.
>
> That meant something was working. Then, I changed baud rate - set it to 75 and now I could decode most of the RTTY traffic I was seeing (some of the weak ones or the 45 stations - not so much).  The source of most of the RTTY I was seeing at the time was the BARTG Sprint 75 contest.
>
> Maybe you ran into the same issue.
>
> 73.
> Joe, KO8V
>
>> On Sep 17, 2017, at 2:37 PM, Gary Smith <[hidden email]> wrote:
>>
>> Hard to enter a short subject that is
>> complete...
>>
>> Have a K3s using USB to the computer & the
>> internal card for digital modes.
>>
>> I wanted to work a few Q's in the RTTY
>> contest and have been using WSJT-X for FT8
>> contacts.
>>
>> In the K3s WSJTX requires Data A for FT8
>> and in MMTTY it requires AFSK A (45BPS is
>> normal).
>>
>> I went to use MMTTY after using WSJTX and
>> with an excellent scope copy of the RTTY
>> signals, gibberish is on the screen. I
>> tried Reverse; REV in MMTTY and tried ALT
>> in the K3 and no benefit. I tried so many
>> things to decode in MMTTY but nothing
>> worked until some random change in a K3s
>> setting worked and then perfect copy as
>> usual.
>>
>> I later clicked on WSJT to make a Q, the
>> radio complied and switched to the
>> settings for WSJT and when I went back to
>> MMTTY, the copy was again gibberish. I
>> don't recall what it was I did to set the
>> K3s back so MMTTY can decode RTTY I did
>> return it to AFSK A 45 but nothing
>> decodes.
>>
>> It was a K3 setting that made the
>> difference but I have no idea what it was
>> I chanced on. anyone work out this issue
>> yet when switching from WSJTX to MMTTY &
>> the change in settings then required in
>> the K3s?
>>
>> Thanks & 73,
>>
>> Gary
>> KA1J
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Message: 22
> Date: Mon, 18 Sep 2017 14:05:10 +0000
> From: John Perlick <[hidden email]>
> To: "[hidden email]" <[hidden email]>
> Subject: [Elecraft] KPA500, KAT500 for sale
> Message-ID:
> <[hidden email]>
>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
>
> Price reduced to $2000 for super clean KPA500+KAT500, with interconnecting cable.  Contact me for pics.  John K0UM [hidden email]
>
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Message: 23
> Date: Mon, 18 Sep 2017 18:12:08 +0200 (CEST)
> From: <[hidden email]>
> To: <[hidden email]>
> Subject: [Elecraft] WTB Elecraft K3S (K3)
> Message-ID: <4G9.16Yri.1B3wSSN4EDw.1Pl}[hidden email]>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=utf-8
>
> I'm looking for loaded 100w Elecraft K3S with ATU and Sub RX with as many as
> possible CW and SSB filters in both main and sub RX Consider equally options
> loaded and already upgraded K3 with S/N 8801 or laterI accept radio from
> smoker shack but must be clean and 100% electricallyShipping to EU or US
> address, as you prefer
> Payment thru PayPal or Bank transferContact me off-list with feature list
> and asking price, please:
> [hidden email](mailto:[hidden email])Thanks a lot
> 73?s
> David
> OK1RK
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Message: 24
> Date: Mon, 18 Sep 2017 14:31:24 -0700
> From: <[hidden email]>
> To: <[hidden email]>
> Subject: [Elecraft] Question for Wayne about your OCF Dipole
> Message-ID: <000001d330c5$7af08530$70d18f90$@nwlink.com>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
>
> Wayne:
>
>  
>
> In a previous post you mentioned your 90 feet long OCF dipole. Would you
> please elaborate on your antenna? Balun, leg lengths, how fed?
>
>  
>
> Thanks,
>
> Marv
>
> KG7V
>
>
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Message: 25
> Date: Mon, 18 Sep 2017 15:02:28 -0700
> From: Wayne Burdick <[hidden email]>
> To: [hidden email]
> Cc: Elecraft Reflector <[hidden email]>
> Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Question for Wayne about your OCF Dipole
> Message-ID: <[hidden email]>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=utf-8
>
> Hi Marv,
>
> I didn?t measure the legs. My best guess, standing here by the shack window using an antique brass monocular, is 55? on one side, 35? on the other. This is the most satisfying thing about off-center-fed dipoles: length generally isn?t critical. Close your eyes and clip, knowing that, most likely, the ATU will do the rest.
>
> The installation was opportunistic, taking advantage of a back yard gazebo, a Home Depot telescoping pool-cleaning pole, and a huge white oak. Height at each end was determined by how high my son was able to climb without the neighbors noticing.
>
> The experimental feedline, running under the house for half its length, was more deliberate if not justified in the literature. At first I was using 300 ohm mystery twin-lead scavenged from an installation of yore. But given all the RFI sources I decided to try two lengths of LMR-400, taped together every few feet, forming a sortof-balanced-shielded feed. Purists I consulted ahead of time continue to be shocked at how well this works. At the mast, the grounds are left unterminated. In the shack, the two center conductors go to an Elecraft BL2 balun. The shields are soldered together and connected to the BL2?s ground lug.
>
> There you have it: Wide tuning range, low noise, low-loss, and theory-free. How it works is left as an exercise for the reader.
>
> Wayne
> N6KR
>
>
>
>> On Sep 18, 2017, at 2:31 PM, <[hidden email]> <[hidden email]> wrote:
>>
>> Wayne:
>>
>>
>>
>> In a previous post you mentioned your 90 feet long OCF dipole. Would you
>> please elaborate on your antenna? Balun, leg lengths, how fed?
>>
>>
>>
>> Thanks,
>>
>> Marv
>>
>> KG7V
>
>
>
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Message: 26
> Date: Mon, 18 Sep 2017 19:19:29 -0400
> From: Don Sanders <[hidden email]>
> To: Wayne Burdick <[hidden email]>, [hidden email]
> Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Question for Wayne about your OCF Dipole
> Message-ID:
> <[hidden email]>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="UTF-8"
>
> So not much different than the G5RV with parallel feed line all the way to
> the tuner, no coax.
> Just fed off center at the 39% or 61% point instead of center fed.
> I wonder about losses in the tuner due to the imbalance but not having
> tested it I hold any judgement.
> Several articles in the literature of similar OCF antennas fed with
> parallel line.
> Basically all are non-resonant, so no worries about resonance on higher
> bands as with OCF , balun,coax fed antennas.
>
> I used a 88 foot center fed with 2 lengths of RG 6 coax similar to what you
> are using.
> >From Ecuador I worked the world with QRP 40 to 10 meters and with 50 to 100
> watts on 80.
> Yes, a good antenna. I center fed it due to worries about loss in baluns
> with OCF antennas and the lack of commercial balanced line. Just a little
> loss from the RG6.
>
> Dr. Don W4BWS
> ?SKCC 81C
> K2 SN 163?
>
>
> On Mon, Sep 18, 2017 at 6:02 PM, Wayne Burdick <[hidden email]> wrote:
>
>> Hi Marv,
>>
>> I didn?t measure the legs. My best guess, standing here by the shack
>> window using an antique brass monocular, is 55? on one side, 35? on the
>> other. This is the most satisfying thing about off-center-fed dipoles:
>> length generally isn?t critical. Close your eyes and clip, knowing that,
>> most likely, the ATU will do the rest.
>>
>> The installation was opportunistic, taking advantage of a back yard
>> gazebo, a Home Depot telescoping pool-cleaning pole, and a huge white oak.
>> Height at each end was determined by how high my son was able to climb
>> without the neighbors noticing.
>>
>> The experimental feedline, running under the house for half its length,
>> was more deliberate if not justified in the literature. At first I was
>> using 300 ohm mystery twin-lead scavenged from an installation of yore. But
>> given all the RFI sources I decided to try two lengths of LMR-400, taped
>> together every few feet, forming a sortof-balanced-shielded feed. Purists I
>> consulted ahead of time continue to be shocked at how well this works. At
>> the mast, the grounds are left unterminated. In the shack, the two center
>> conductors go to an Elecraft BL2 balun. The shields are soldered together
>> and connected to the BL2?s ground lug.
>>
>> There you have it: Wide tuning range, low noise, low-loss, and
>> theory-free. How it works is left as an exercise for the reader.
>>
>> Wayne
>> N6KR
>>
>>
>>
>>> On Sep 18, 2017, at 2:31 PM, <[hidden email]> <
>> [hidden email]> wrote:
>>> Wayne:
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> In a previous post you mentioned your 90 feet long OCF dipole. Would you
>>> please elaborate on your antenna? Balun, leg lengths, how fed?
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> Thanks,
>>>
>>> Marv
>>>
>>> KG7V
>>
>>
>> ______________________________________________________________
>> Elecraft mailing list
>> Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft
>> Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm
>> Post: mailto:[hidden email]
>>
>> This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net
>> Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
>> Message delivered to [hidden email]
>>
>
> ------------------------------
>
> _______________________________________________
> Elecraft mailing list
> Post to: [hidden email]
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> End of Elecraft Digest, Vol 161, Issue 23
> *****************************************

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73&CU Penna, OH2G, OF2CG

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