Re: Elecraft Digest, Vol 193, Issue 39
Locked
 
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Finally got it on screen. Were you on bicycle?
fd -----Original Message----- From: [hidden email] <[hidden email]> On Behalf Of [hidden email] Sent: Saturday, May 23, 2020 11:50 AM To: [hidden email] Subject: Elecraft Digest, Vol 193, Issue 39 Send Elecraft mailing list submissions to [hidden email] To subscribe or unsubscribe via the World Wide Web, visit http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft or, via email, send a message with subject or body 'help' to [hidden email] You can reach the person managing the list at [hidden email] When replying, please edit your Subject line so it is more specific than "Re: Contents of Elecraft digest..." Today's Topics: 1. Re: Keyer goes berserk ([hidden email]) 2. Re: Recommended Power for K3/100 for 100% Data Modes (Randy Lake) 3. K4 NR & NB (Drew AF2Z) 4. Re: Keyer goes berserk (Madison Jones) 5. Re: Keyer goes berserk (Nr4c) 6. Re: Reset Third-Hand KX3 (Lynn W. Taylor, WB6UUT) 7. Re: K4 NR & NB (Wayne Burdick) 8. Re: Reset Third-Hand KX3 (Walter Underwood) 9. Re: Recommended Power for K3/100 for 100% Data Modes (Brian Hunt) 10. Re: Keyer goes berserk (Madison Jones) 11. Re: KX3 SPL N/A Message (Jwahar Bammi) 12. Re: Keyer goes berserk (Nr4c) 13. FS: K3, K3s and P3 (benny aumala) 14. KPA-1500 power supply fan noise (Peter Dougherty) 15. Re: KPA-1500 power supply fan noise (NW0M) 16. Re: KPA-1500 power supply fan noise (Larry (K8UT)) 17. Re: KPA-1500 power supply fan noise (Eric Swartz WA6HHQ - Elecraft) 18. ferrites for subwoofer: before or after isolation transformers? (Nicklas Johnson) 19. Re: ferrites for subwoofer: before or after isolation transformers? (Dave Cole) 20. Re: ferrites for subwoofer: before or after isolation transformers? (Peter Dougherty) 21. Re: ferrites for subwoofer: before or after isolation transformers? (Nicklas Johnson) 22. Re: KPA-1500 power supply fan noise (Dr. William J. Schmidt) 23. Re: ferrites for subwoofer: before or after isolation transformers? (Walter Underwood) ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Message: 1 Date: Fri, 22 May 2020 20:29:45 -0400 From: <[hidden email]> To: <[hidden email]> Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Keyer goes berserk Message-ID: <000201d63099$4297c320$c7c74960$@com> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii" It is sounding like he plugged the key directly in and it still did not work. Maybe there is a K3 setting incorrect like the mode or it is set to TX split on the wrong mode. Does the K3 side tone make any sound? I am curious if RTTY sends with the key plugged in? KK9A Don Wilhelm W3FPR wrote: Madison, Eliminate everything except the K3 and your paddles. Plug the paddles into the paddle jack on the K3 - does the K3 make CW? Then plug the paddles (assuming you do not have a straight key) into the KEY jack. Do you have a 'straight key' on one side of the paddles?. If both those conditions are OK, then the K3 is OK. Look to a problem with MORTTY or your computer application. Once you have identified the source of the problem, then you can address it with the appropriate forum for that particular piece of the puzzle. If it is the K3 that is misbehaving, then email support at elecraft.com for assistance. 73, Don W3FPR On 5/22/2020 6:25 PM, Madison Jones wrote: > Thanks to everyone. The entire configuration which I described has worked > just fine ever since I acquired MORTTY last fall. I have used it in this > configuration for thousands of contacts - paddle [and usb from computer ] > into MORTTY and then into K3. The last time it all worked was for the 19z > CWT on Wednesday. However, when I was setting up for the 03z CWT without > making any changes from 19z except to change contests on N1MM+, when I set > and saved the configuration, it first acted as a straight key [which is to > say, either paddle simply gave a steady dah until I released it]. I then > rebooted N1MM+, hit F3 [tu], and at that point the K3 gave some dits and > dahs, and then would not do anything. > > When I took everything apart, I suspected the MORTTY, but putting the > paddle directly into either paddle or key port on K3 produced nothing at > all - would not key K3 no way no how. Tried the MORTTY on my K/W 480, and > it worked fine. Key into 480 works fine in either the paddle or key port. > can only conclude that since the MORTTY works fine, the cables work fine, > and the paddle works fine, that leaves only the K3 which does not work fine. > > Today I rebooted the K3 and computer several times in various > configurations - N1MM, paddle with MORTTY, paddle direct to key port and > then to paddle port. The first time I did it I noticed that both red and > green lights on MORTTY lit up the first time I hit Enter on N1MM after > configuring it, but no response that I remember from K3. I thought ESM must > have disconnect itself in N1MM but it was OK. After that first attempt, I > reconfigured ports in N1MM, still no ESM, no response from K3, and no > lights on MORTTY. Nothing happens. > > Has to be K3 problem, but what? Receiver works OK. > > Madison ------------------------------ Message: 2 Date: Fri, 22 May 2020 21:26:31 -0400 From: Randy Lake <[hidden email]> To: Eric KG6MZS <[hidden email]> Cc: Elecraft List <[hidden email]> Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Recommended Power for K3/100 for 100% Data Modes Message-ID: <CACnmA1MA24Hh=gwZjjidxVb5P1yd9j+x=[hidden email]> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="UTF-8" I have been running 100w on HF since FT8 started with no issues at all. Ser# 3990ish....I run mostly at 30w on 6m for 1200w out, day and night for years. Randy N1KWF On Fri, May 22, 2020 at 7:03 PM Eric KG6MZS <[hidden email]> wrote: > Hello All, > > I?ve searched the reflector's archives and haven?t found anything on this, > so here goes. > > I have an aging K3/1000 (sn 3045) and I wish to preserve its operating > life. Up until now I?ve mostly operated in SSB and BPSK. Recently I?ve > been exploring some 100% duty cycle modes and I am wondering what would be > a prudent power level for these modes. Or perhaps there is a temperature > limit that should be observed on the KPA3?s heat sink? > > Suggestions? > > TIA, > Eric Fitzgerald > KG6MZS > > ______________________________________________________________ > Elecraft mailing list > Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft > Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm > Post: mailto:[hidden email] > > This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net > Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html > Message delivered to [hidden email] -- Randy Lake N1KWF 73 Gunn Rd. Keene,NH ------------------------------ Message: 3 Date: Fri, 22 May 2020 22:09:15 -0400 From: Drew AF2Z <[hidden email]> To: [hidden email] Subject: [Elecraft] K4 NR & NB Message-ID: <[hidden email]> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=utf-8; format=flowed Has there been any news about the K4 NR & NB? If so, I've missed it. I'm particularly interested in the user interface compared to the K3. On the K3 the NB has 21 DSP settings and 21 IF settings which have to be scrolled through sequentially to find the best ones. The NR has 32 settings to scroll through, with a noticeable delay to build each one after selected. Also a delay to rebuild every time the width filter is changed. I expect the annoying delays will not be present on the K4 with the faster processor, but what of the filter selection: will we still need to scroll sequentially through long strings of NR & NB presets? Despite the limitations of the K3 filters I have found them to be very useful for my local noise problems. Still, I hope there is something better on the K4... 73, Drew AF2Z ------------------------------ Message: 4 Date: Fri, 22 May 2020 21:19:30 -0500 From: Madison Jones <[hidden email]> To: [hidden email] Cc: [hidden email] Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Keyer goes berserk Message-ID: <CAGf0DjuYrYfAHTLNY=wAG=[hidden email]> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="UTF-8" Hi Don I checked VOX, and it is on and has been on. I tried the paddles in the key jack of the K3. Nothing happens. I tried in the paddle jack of the K3. Nothing happens. However, the paddles, with or without MORTTY, and with and without N1MM, work fine in the Kenwood TS480 in both the key jack and the paddle jack. I conclude, therefore, that the paddles are functional, that MORTTY is functional, and that N1MM is functional. The K3 is NOT functional. Since this is the Elecraft forum, I am asking that perhaps someone on the reflector has a new idea since I am out of old ideas. Anyone else? Madison W5MJ On Fri, May 22, 2020 at 6:43 PM Don Wilhelm <[hidden email]> wrote: > Madison, > > Eliminate everything except the K3 and your paddles. > > Plug the paddles into the paddle jack on the K3 - does the K3 make CW? > Then plug the paddles (assuming you do not have a straight key) into the > KEY jack. Do you have a 'straight key' on one side of the paddles?. > If both those conditions are OK, then the K3 is OK. > Look to a problem with MORTTY or your computer application. > > Once you have identified the source of the problem, then you can address > it with the appropriate forum for that particular piece of the puzzle. > If it is the K3 that is misbehaving, then email [hidden email] for > assistance. > > 73, > Don W3FPR > > On 5/22/2020 6:25 PM, Madison Jones wrote: > > Thanks to everyone. The entire configuration which I described has > > just fine ever since I acquired MORTTY last fall. I have used it in this > > configuration for thousands of contacts - paddle [and usb from computer ] > > into MORTTY and then into K3. The last time it all worked was for the 19z > > CWT on Wednesday. However, when I was setting up for the 03z CWT without > > making any changes from 19z except to change contests on N1MM+, when I > set > > and saved the configuration, it first acted as a straight key [which is > to > > say, either paddle simply gave a steady dah until I released it]. I then > > rebooted N1MM+, hit F3 [tu], and at that point the K3 gave some dits and > > dahs, and then would not do anything. > > > > When I took everything apart, I suspected the MORTTY, but putting the > > paddle directly into either paddle or key port on K3 produced nothing at > > all - would not key K3 no way no how. Tried the MORTTY on my K/W 480, > > it worked fine. Key into 480 works fine in either the paddle or key > port. I > > can only conclude that since the MORTTY works fine, the cables work fine, > > and the paddle works fine, that leaves only the K3 which does not work > fine. > > > > Today I rebooted the K3 and computer several times in various > > configurations - N1MM, paddle with MORTTY, paddle direct to key port and > > then to paddle port. The first time I did it I noticed that both red and > > green lights on MORTTY lit up the first time I hit Enter on N1MM after > > configuring it, but no response that I remember from K3. I thought ESM > must > > have disconnect itself in N1MM but it was OK. After that first attempt, > > reconfigured ports in N1MM, still no ESM, no response from K3, and no > > lights on MORTTY. Nothing happens. > > > > Has to be K3 problem, but what? Receiver works OK. > > > > Madison > > > ------------------------------ Message: 5 Date: Fri, 22 May 2020 22:42:54 -0400 From: Nr4c <[hidden email]> To: Madison Jones <[hidden email]> Cc: [hidden email] Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Keyer goes berserk Message-ID: <[hidden email]> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=utf-8 ?MODE?? Sent from my iPhone ...nr4c. bill > On May 22, 2020, at 10:23 PM, Madison Jones <[hidden email]> wrote: > > ?Hi Don > > I checked VOX, and it is on and has been on. I tried the paddles in the key > jack of the K3. Nothing happens. I tried in the paddle jack of the K3. > Nothing happens. However, the paddles, with or without MORTTY, and with and > without N1MM, work fine in the Kenwood TS480 in both the key jack and the > paddle jack. > > I conclude, therefore, that the paddles are functional, that MORTTY is > functional, and that N1MM is functional. The K3 is NOT functional. Since > this is the Elecraft forum, I am asking that perhaps someone on the > reflector has a new idea since I am out of old ideas. > > Anyone else? > > Madison > W5MJ > >> On Fri, May 22, 2020 at 6:43 PM Don Wilhelm <[hidden email]> >> >> Madison, >> >> Eliminate everything except the K3 and your paddles. >> >> Plug the paddles into the paddle jack on the K3 - does the K3 make CW? >> Then plug the paddles (assuming you do not have a straight key) into the >> KEY jack. Do you have a 'straight key' on one side of the paddles?. >> If both those conditions are OK, then the K3 is OK. >> Look to a problem with MORTTY or your computer application. >> >> Once you have identified the source of the problem, then you can address >> it with the appropriate forum for that particular piece of the puzzle. >> If it is the K3 that is misbehaving, then email [hidden email] for >> assistance. >> >> 73, >> Don W3FPR >> >>> On 5/22/2020 6:25 PM, Madison Jones wrote: >>> Thanks to everyone. The entire configuration which I described has ------------------------------ Message: 6 Date: Fri, 22 May 2020 20:04:10 -0700 From: "Lynn W. Taylor, WB6UUT" <[hidden email]> To: [hidden email] Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Reset Third-Hand KX3 Message-ID: <[hidden email]> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=utf-8; format=flowed I wrote to [hidden email] asking for the configuration file for my 2013 vintage KX3. They sent me the specific file for my radio's serial number, with the factory calibration info. 73 -- Lynn On 5/22/20 11:25 AM, Walter Underwood wrote: > There is no way to reset just the preferences to factory default settings. It would be nice and people have asked for it, but it doesn?t exist. Saving and restoring preference sets would be a handy thing. > > wunder > K6WRU > Walter Underwood > CM87wj > http://observer.wunderwood.org/ (my blog) > ------------------------------ Message: 7 Date: Fri, 22 May 2020 20:08:03 -0700 From: Wayne Burdick <[hidden email]> To: [hidden email] Cc: elecraft <[hidden email]> Subject: Re: [Elecraft] K4 NR & NB Message-ID: <[hidden email]> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="UTF-8" Hi Drew, The K4 has one linear control range of 0-15 for both NR and NB, making adjustment far simpler. There's virtually no delay in setting up NR. 73, Wayne N6KR On Fri, May 22, 2020 at 7:11 PM Drew AF2Z <[hidden email]> wrote: > Has there been any news about the K4 NR & NB? If so, I've missed it. I'm > particularly interested in the user interface compared to the K3. > > On the K3 the NB has 21 DSP settings and 21 IF settings which have to be > scrolled through sequentially to find the best ones. The NR has 32 > settings to scroll through, with a noticeable delay to build each one > after selected. Also a delay to rebuild every time the width filter is > changed. > > I expect the annoying delays will not be present on the K4 with the > faster processor, but what of the filter selection: will we still need > to scroll sequentially through long strings of NR & NB presets? > > Despite the limitations of the K3 filters I have found them to be very > useful for my local noise problems. Still, I hope there is something > better on the K4... > > > 73, > Drew > AF2Z > > ______________________________________________________________ > Elecraft mailing list > Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft > Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm > Post: mailto:[hidden email] > > This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net > Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html > Message delivered to [hidden email] > ------------------------------ Message: 8 Date: Fri, 22 May 2020 20:22:09 -0700 From: Walter Underwood <[hidden email]> To: Phil Hystad via Elecraft <[hidden email]> Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Reset Third-Hand KX3 Message-ID: <[hidden email]> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=utf-8 I?ve done that for my 2012 vintage KX3, but that resets all the calibration and alignment values, too. It does not just set the preferences to defaults. If I loaded that on my KX3, it would overwrite the custom temperature compensation values that I set with the extended temp. comp. procedure. wunder K6WRU Walter Underwood CM87wj http://observer.wunderwood.org/ (my blog) > On May 22, 2020, at 8:04 PM, Lynn W. Taylor, WB6UUT <[hidden email]> wrote: > > I wrote to [hidden email] asking for the configuration file for my 2013 vintage KX3. > > They sent me the specific file for my radio's serial number, with the factory calibration info. > > 73 -- Lynn > > On 5/22/20 11:25 AM, Walter Underwood wrote: >> There is no way to reset just the preferences to factory default settings. It would be nice and people have asked for it, but it doesn?t exist. Saving and restoring preference sets would be a handy thing. >> wunder >> K6WRU >> Walter Underwood >> CM87wj >> http://observer.wunderwood.org/ (my blog) > ______________________________________________________________ > Elecraft mailing list > Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft > Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm > Post: mailto:[hidden email] > > This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net > Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html > Message delivered to [hidden email] ------------------------------ Message: 9 Date: Fri, 22 May 2020 20:44:44 -0700 From: Brian Hunt <[hidden email]> To: Eric KG6MZS <[hidden email]> Cc: [hidden email] Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Recommended Power for K3/100 for 100% Data Modes Message-ID: <[hidden email]> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=utf-8 One thing you might check is whether or not your K3 has thermal pads between the LPA transistors and where they bolt to the bottom cover. I ran across this when doing some mods and the instructions said to reinstall them but my early 4xxx K3/100F didn't have them. When I asked the Elecraft tech he said they were added because of the higher duty cycle digital modes. As a minimum make sure those screws are tight. 73, Brian, K0DTJ > On May 22, 2020, at 16:03, Eric KG6MZS <[hidden email]> wrote: > > Hello All, > > I?ve searched the reflector's archives and haven?t found anything on this, so here goes. > > I have an aging K3/1000 (sn 3045) and I wish to preserve its operating life. Up until now I?ve mostly operated in SSB and BPSK. Recently I?ve been exploring some 100% duty cycle modes and I am wondering what would be a prudent power level for these modes. Or perhaps there is a temperature limit that should be observed on the KPA3?s heat sink? > > Suggestions? > > TIA, > Eric Fitzgerald > KG6MZS > > ______________________________________________________________ > Elecraft mailing list > Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft > Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm > Post: mailto:[hidden email] > > This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net > Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html > Message delivered to [hidden email] ------------------------------ Message: 10 Date: Fri, 22 May 2020 23:07:11 -0500 From: Madison Jones <[hidden email]> To: Nr4c <[hidden email]> Cc: [hidden email] Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Keyer goes berserk Message-ID: <CAGf0DjujiJ0gHuHw_q8cDVh2XgdoyGbTK8ZFJTV33XHdfX=[hidden email]> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="UTF-8" Thanks, Mike W?VTT, the problem is resolved! Mike asked if I had checked the firmware, which I had previously and had determined earlier that I had the latest version [05.67]. Thinking it couldn't hurt to reinstall it anyway, I did, and that solved all issues! Now everything works as it should. Thanks to all who spent time and effort trying to get to the solution. Dunno what the problem was, but since it is all electronic stuff, anything could have gone wrong. 73 Madison W5MJ On Fri, May 22, 2020 at 9:42 PM Nr4c <[hidden email]> wrote: > ?MODE?? > > Sent from my iPhone > ...nr4c. bill > > > > On May 22, 2020, at 10:23 PM, Madison Jones <[hidden email]> > wrote: > > > > ?Hi Don > > > > I checked VOX, and it is on and has been on. I tried the paddles in the > key > > jack of the K3. Nothing happens. I tried in the paddle jack of the K3. > > Nothing happens. However, the paddles, with or without MORTTY, and with > and > > without N1MM, work fine in the Kenwood TS480 in both the key jack and > > paddle jack. > > > > I conclude, therefore, that the paddles are functional, that MORTTY is > > functional, and that N1MM is functional. The K3 is NOT functional. Since > > this is the Elecraft forum, I am asking that perhaps someone on the > > reflector has a new idea since I am out of old ideas. > > > > Anyone else? > > > > Madison > > W5MJ > > > >> On Fri, May 22, 2020 at 6:43 PM Don Wilhelm <[hidden email]> > wrote: > >> > >> Madison, > >> > >> Eliminate everything except the K3 and your paddles. > >> > >> Plug the paddles into the paddle jack on the K3 - does the K3 make CW? > >> Then plug the paddles (assuming you do not have a straight key) into > >> KEY jack. Do you have a 'straight key' on one side of the paddles?. > >> If both those conditions are OK, then the K3 is OK. > >> Look to a problem with MORTTY or your computer application. > >> > >> Once you have identified the source of the problem, then you can address > >> it with the appropriate forum for that particular piece of the puzzle. > >> If it is the K3 that is misbehaving, then email [hidden email] > for > >> assistance. > >> > >> 73, > >> Don W3FPR > >> > >>> On 5/22/2020 6:25 PM, Madison Jones wrote: > >>> Thanks to everyone. The entire configuration which I described has > worked > ------------------------------ Message: 11 Date: Sat, 23 May 2020 00:24:23 -0400 From: "Jwahar Bammi" <[hidden email]> To: <[hidden email]> Subject: Re: [Elecraft] KX3 SPL N/A Message Message-ID: <014d01d630ba$0a1ab0e0$1e5012a0$@mac.com> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii" Thank You Will @ K4MI That ( hitting "A=B") solved the problem. I am guessing that this may be a KX3 specific quirk. Not exactly sure what CAT message WSJT sends the rig, or may also be likely that my CAT is via OMNIRIG which may not be passing enough detail through to the rig. 73 de k1jbd Bammi * In order to operate split with data modes, both VFO A and B must be in 'Data' mode. The quickest way to make this happen is to hit the 'A=B' button which would set both to the same frequency and mode. Then WSJT should work in split mode. * Not sure why WSJT doesn't automatically do this, but it may be a difference from the K3 to the KX3. * Will Hrachovina ------------------------------ Message: 12 Date: Sat, 23 May 2020 00:27:43 -0400 From: Nr4c <[hidden email]> To: Madison Jones <[hidden email]> Cc: [hidden email] Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Keyer goes berserk Message-ID: <[hidden email]> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=utf-8 Thanks for the update and glad you got it resolved. Sent from my iPhone ...nr4c. bill > On May 23, 2020, at 12:07 AM, Madison Jones <[hidden email]> wrote: > > ? > Thanks, Mike W?VTT, the problem is resolved! Mike asked if I had checked the firmware, which I had previously and had determined earlier that I had the latest version [05.67]. Thinking it couldn't hurt to reinstall it anyway, I did, and that solved all issues! Now everything works as it should. > > Thanks to all who spent time and effort trying to get to the solution. Dunno what the problem was, but since it is all electronic stuff, anything could have gone wrong. > > 73 > > Madison > W5MJ > >> On Fri, May 22, 2020 at 9:42 PM Nr4c <[hidden email]> wrote: >> ?MODE?? >> >> Sent from my iPhone >> ...nr4c. bill >> >> >> > On May 22, 2020, at 10:23 PM, Madison Jones <[hidden email]> >> > >> > ?Hi Don >> > >> > I checked VOX, and it is on and has been on. I tried the paddles in the key >> > jack of the K3. Nothing happens. I tried in the paddle jack of the K3. >> > Nothing happens. However, the paddles, with or without MORTTY, and with and >> > without N1MM, work fine in the Kenwood TS480 in both the key jack and the >> > paddle jack. >> > >> > I conclude, therefore, that the paddles are functional, that MORTTY is >> > functional, and that N1MM is functional. The K3 is NOT functional. Since >> > this is the Elecraft forum, I am asking that perhaps someone on the >> > reflector has a new idea since I am out of old ideas. >> > >> > Anyone else? >> > >> > Madison >> > W5MJ >> > >> >> On Fri, May 22, 2020 at 6:43 PM Don Wilhelm <[hidden email]> wrote: >> >> >> >> Madison, >> >> >> >> Eliminate everything except the K3 and your paddles. >> >> >> >> Plug the paddles into the paddle jack on the K3 - does the K3 make CW? >> >> Then plug the paddles (assuming you do not have a straight key) into the >> >> KEY jack. Do you have a 'straight key' on one side of the paddles?. >> >> If both those conditions are OK, then the K3 is OK. >> >> Look to a problem with MORTTY or your computer application. >> >> >> >> Once you have identified the source of the problem, then you can address >> >> it with the appropriate forum for that particular piece of the puzzle. >> >> If it is the K3 that is misbehaving, then email [hidden email] for >> >> assistance. >> >> >> >> 73, >> >> Don W3FPR >> >> >> >>> On 5/22/2020 6:25 PM, Madison Jones wrote: >> >>> Thanks to everyone. The entire configuration which I described has worked ------------------------------ Message: 13 Date: Sat, 23 May 2020 14:08:18 +0300 From: benny aumala <[hidden email]> To: [hidden email] Subject: [Elecraft] FS: K3, K3s and P3 Message-ID: <[hidden email]> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=utf-8; format=flowed Will sell following: K3 100W??? +KAT3 +KSYN3 +K144XV +500Hz filter 1450 Euro K3s 100W ??? +2xKSYN3 +KRX3 +200 / 500 / 1800 Hz filter 2450 Euro P3K 550 Euro Benny Aumala?? OH9NB?? +358 400 696 070 ------------------------------ Message: 14 Date: Sat, 23 May 2020 10:33:19 -0400 From: "Peter Dougherty" <[hidden email]> To: <[hidden email]> Subject: [Elecraft] KPA-1500 power supply fan noise Message-ID: <06e601d6310f$1aaa7ee0$4fff7ca0$@w2irt.net> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii" Is there any way to power off the fans (or lower their RPM) on the PSU if the amp is in standby mode? I would like to keep my rig on 6m throughout the day during the Es season. The problem is my 6m antenna is on antenna port 2 on the KPA, which requires the amp to be powered up. I only need to TX when a new grid pops up, but I do like to monitor the band during the day while I'm working. My XYL is working from home, and is in the same room for about 9 or 10 hours a day, and the noise after 10 minutes was too much for her. Any suggestions? Please-n-thanks. --------------------------------------------- 73 and Good DX Peter, W2IRT President, North Jersey DX Association DXCC Card Checker Letter O Manager, ARRL Incoming 2nd District QSL bureau ------------------------------ Message: 15 Date: Sat, 23 May 2020 08:06:53 -0700 (MST) From: NW0M <[hidden email]> To: [hidden email] Subject: Re: [Elecraft] KPA-1500 power supply fan noise Message-ID: <[hidden email]> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=UTF-8 HI Peter, Put the 6M antenna on Antenna Port 1 for now. 73, Mitch NW?M -- Sent from: http://elecraft.365791.n2.nabble.com/ ------------------------------ Message: 16 Date: Sat, 23 May 2020 15:09:48 +0000 From: "Larry (K8UT)" <[hidden email]> To: [hidden email] Subject: Re: [Elecraft] KPA-1500 power supply fan noise Message-ID: <em8345bf08-a443-4050-8e06-ff2030213e4c@k8ut-pc> Content-Type: text/plain; format=flowed; charset=utf-8 Peter I built a slightly longer cable to match the length of the control cable that came with the amplifier (about 3 feet longer if I recall correctly). This allows the PS to operate "remote" in a closet with the door closed. -larry (K8UT) ------ Original Message ------ From: "Peter Dougherty" <[hidden email]> To: [hidden email] Sent: 2020-05-23 10:33:19 AM Subject: [Elecraft] KPA-1500 power supply fan noise >Is there any way to power off the fans (or lower their RPM) on the PSU if >the amp is in standby mode? > >I would like to keep my rig on 6m throughout the day during the Es season. >The problem is my 6m antenna is on antenna port 2 on the KPA, which requires >the amp to be powered up. I only need to TX when a new grid pops up, but I >do like to monitor the band during the day while I'm working. My XYL is >working from home, and is in the same room for about 9 or 10 hours a day, >and the noise after 10 minutes was too much for her. Any suggestions? > >Please-n-thanks. > >--------------------------------------------- >73 and Good DX >Peter, W2IRT > > > >President, North Jersey DX Association > >DXCC Card Checker >Letter O Manager, ARRL Incoming 2nd District QSL bureau > > > >______________________________________________________________ >Elecraft mailing list >Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft >Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm >Post: mailto:[hidden email] > >This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net >Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html >Message delivered to [hidden email] ------------------------------ Message: 17 Date: Sat, 23 May 2020 08:53:09 -0700 From: Eric Swartz WA6HHQ - Elecraft <[hidden email]> To: "Larry (K8UT)" <[hidden email]> Cc: [hidden email] Subject: Re: [Elecraft] KPA-1500 power supply fan noise Message-ID: <[hidden email]> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=utf-8 Hi Peter, If the amp is on, there needs to be at least some PS fan activity at a low speed to cool the PS in idle. What s/n is your 1500? On later s/ns we changed a resistor in the ps fan circuit to slow them down a bit more. An alternative is to swap your ant 1 and 2 connections, putting the 6m ant on ANT 1. Then you can listen to 6m with the amp off. 73, Eric elecraft.com --- Sent from my iPhone 6S > On May 23, 2020, at 8:10 AM, Larry (K8UT) <[hidden email]> wrote: > > ?Peter > > I built a slightly longer cable to match the length of the control cable that came with the amplifier (about 3 feet longer if I recall correctly). > > This allows the PS to operate "remote" in a closet with the door closed. > > -larry (K8UT) > > ------ Original Message ------ > From: "Peter Dougherty" <[hidden email]> > To: [hidden email] > Sent: 2020-05-23 10:33:19 AM > Subject: [Elecraft] KPA-1500 power supply fan noise > >> Is there any way to power off the fans (or lower their RPM) on the PSU if >> the amp is in standby mode? >> >> I would like to keep my rig on 6m throughout the day during the Es >> The problem is my 6m antenna is on antenna port 2 on the KPA, which requires >> the amp to be powered up. I only need to TX when a new grid pops up, but I >> do like to monitor the band during the day while I'm working. My XYL is >> working from home, and is in the same room for about 9 or 10 hours a day, >> and the noise after 10 minutes was too much for her. Any suggestions? >> >> Please-n-thanks. >> >> --------------------------------------------- >> 73 and Good DX >> Peter, W2IRT >> >> >> >> President, North Jersey DX Association >> >> DXCC Card Checker >> Letter O Manager, ARRL Incoming 2nd District QSL bureau >> >> >> >> ______________________________________________________________ >> Elecraft mailing list >> Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft >> Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm >> Post: mailto:[hidden email] >> >> This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net >> Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html >> Message delivered to [hidden email] > > ______________________________________________________________ > Elecraft mailing list > Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft > Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm > Post: mailto:[hidden email] > > This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net > Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html > Message delivered to [hidden email] ------------------------------ Message: 18 Date: Sat, 23 May 2020 09:37:32 -0700 From: Nicklas Johnson <[hidden email]> To: elecraft <[hidden email]> Subject: [Elecraft] ferrites for subwoofer: before or after isolation transformers? Message-ID: <CA+ZptL=[hidden email]> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="UTF-8" The backstory as briefly as I can make it: I wanted to place my home theater subwoofer in the corner of our living room; doing so required running two speaker wires and a coaxial cable under the house and plugging the subwoofer into a different outlet than the AV receiver; this in turn resulted in ground-loop hum (because of a tiny difference in potential between the two outlets) which I worked around with a set of 1:1 low-frequency audio isolation transformers. The subwoofer is of a type that produces a signal based not only on the LFE channel, but also on the left and right speaker channels, thus the two speaker wires along with the coaxial cable. Now the subwoofer is picking up common mode noise on 20m, which isn't terribly surprising, as this happens a good bit with consumer-grade electronics. I'm hoping to mitigate this with some substantial ferrite clamps for all three connections and as many turns as I can get through them. My hunch is that the best place in the path to clamp them on will be immediately before the connection to the speaker itself, on the speaker side of the isolation transformer, but I wanted to get the opinions of folks who have solved this problem in the past to see if there's any reason the ferrites should come before the isolation transformers. Thoughts? Nick -- *N6OL* Saying something doesn't make it true. Belief in something doesn't make it real. And if you have to lie to support a position, that position is not worth supporting. ------------------------------ Message: 19 Date: Sat, 23 May 2020 10:08:23 -0700 From: Dave Cole <[hidden email]> To: [hidden email] Subject: Re: [Elecraft] ferrites for subwoofer: before or after isolation transformers? Message-ID: <[hidden email]> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=utf-8; format=flowed Grab some FT-240/31 ferrites from Fair-Rite, (these are the large rings), and put seven or eight turns of speaker cable through each, tight wound. Add one at the speaker, and one at the amp. 73, and thanks, Dave (NK7Z) https://www.nk7z.net ARRL Volunteer Examiner ARRL Technical Specialist ARRL Asst. Director, NW Division, Technical Resources On 5/23/20 9:37 AM, Nicklas Johnson wrote: > The backstory as briefly as I can make it: I wanted to place my home > theater subwoofer in the corner of our living room; doing so required > running two speaker wires and a coaxial cable under the house and plugging > the subwoofer into a different outlet than the AV receiver; this in turn > resulted in ground-loop hum (because of a tiny difference in potential > between the two outlets) which I worked around with a set of 1:1 > low-frequency audio isolation transformers. The subwoofer is of a type > that produces a signal based not only on the LFE channel, but also on the > left and right speaker channels, thus the two speaker wires along with the > coaxial cable. > > Now the subwoofer is picking up common mode noise on 20m, which isn't > terribly surprising, as this happens a good bit with consumer-grade > electronics. I'm hoping to mitigate this with some substantial ferrite > clamps for all three connections and as many turns as I can get through > them. > > My hunch is that the best place in the path to clamp them on will be > immediately before the connection to the speaker itself, on the speaker > side of the isolation transformer, but I wanted to get the opinions of > folks who have solved this problem in the past to see if there's any > the ferrites should come before the isolation transformers. > > Thoughts? > > Nick > ------------------------------ Message: 20 Date: Sat, 23 May 2020 13:17:43 -0400 From: "Peter Dougherty" <[hidden email]> To: "'Nicklas Johnson'" <[hidden email]>, "'elecraft'" <[hidden email]> Subject: Re: [Elecraft] ferrites for subwoofer: before or after isolation transformers? Message-ID: <077301d63126$12ad16a0$380743e0$@w2irt.net> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii" I'm experiencing something similar. I have my sub-2 output connected to bass shakers on my sofa, and the wiring picks up an incredible amount of RF on 20. As my wife found out when she was taking a nap in the room while I was contesting. As soon as I switched to 20 she was getting rumbled to the pattern of CQ TEST. That was an interesting conversation, and something I will look at this summer. As for your low frequencies getting into your left and right main, why not switch them to "small" in the AVR menu, and let the sub do all the work below 80 Hz? I have had some luck putting ferrites just before the speaker terminals in the past. I sadly cut all my speaker cable to length so there's no room to wind around a core, so these will need to be clamp-ons for me. I get into my center and surrounds on 40 and 20. Or I can tell my XYL to nap in the living room, since there's just the two of us in the house. - pjd -----Original Message----- From: [hidden email] <[hidden email]> On Behalf Of Nicklas Johnson Sent: Saturday, May 23, 2020 12:38 PM To: elecraft <[hidden email]> Subject: [Elecraft] ferrites for subwoofer: before or after isolation transformers? The backstory as briefly as I can make it: I wanted to place my home theater subwoofer in the corner of our living room; doing so required running two speaker wires and a coaxial cable under the house and plugging the subwoofer into a different outlet than the AV receiver; this in turn resulted in ground-loop hum (because of a tiny difference in potential between the two outlets) which I worked around with a set of 1:1 low-frequency audio isolation transformers. The subwoofer is of a type that produces a signal based not only on the LFE channel, but also on the left and right speaker channels, thus the two speaker wires along with the coaxial cable. Now the subwoofer is picking up common mode noise on 20m, which isn't terribly surprising, as this happens a good bit with consumer-grade electronics. I'm hoping to mitigate this with some substantial ferrite clamps for all three connections and as many turns as I can get through them. My hunch is that the best place in the path to clamp them on will be immediately before the connection to the speaker itself, on the speaker side of the isolation transformer, but I wanted to get the opinions of folks who have solved this problem in the past to see if there's any reason the ferrites should come before the isolation transformers. Thoughts? Nick -- *N6OL* Saying something doesn't make it true. Belief in something doesn't make it real. And if you have to lie to support a position, that position is not worth supporting. ______________________________________________________________ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:[hidden email] This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html Message delivered to [hidden email] ------------------------------ Message: 21 Date: Sat, 23 May 2020 10:19:40 -0700 From: Nicklas Johnson <[hidden email]> To: elecraft <[hidden email]> Subject: Re: [Elecraft] ferrites for subwoofer: before or after isolation transformers? Message-ID: <[hidden email]> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="UTF-8" I've got a set of these on the way, as well as a handful of their next two smaller siblings, just because I like to have a variety in my desk for various applications: https://www.fair-rite.com/product/round-cable-snap-its-2631181381/ Given the arrangement at the subwoofer of wall-connection-->isolation transformers-->subwoofer, would you put the ferrite right before the subwoofer then? I didn't think about adding one at the amp; though I haven't had problems with any common mode noise getting into the amp from the other speakers in the room, I can't be sure about the LFE coaxial cable, so that wouldn't hurt. Nick On Sat, 23 May 2020 at 10:08, Dave Cole <[hidden email]> wrote: > Grab some FT-240/31 ferrites from Fair-Rite, (these are the large > rings), and put seven or eight turns of speaker cable through each, > tight wound. Add one at the speaker, and one at the amp. > > 73, and thanks, > Dave (NK7Z) > https://www.nk7z.net > ARRL Volunteer Examiner > ARRL Technical Specialist > ARRL Asst. Director, NW Division, Technical Resources > > On 5/23/20 9:37 AM, Nicklas Johnson wrote: > > The backstory as briefly as I can make it: I wanted to place my home > > theater subwoofer in the corner of our living room; doing so required > > running two speaker wires and a coaxial cable under the house and > plugging > > the subwoofer into a different outlet than the AV receiver; this in turn > > resulted in ground-loop hum (because of a tiny difference in potential > > between the two outlets) which I worked around with a set of 1:1 > > low-frequency audio isolation transformers. The subwoofer is of a type > > that produces a signal based not only on the LFE channel, but also on > > left and right speaker channels, thus the two speaker wires along with > the > > coaxial cable. > > > > Now the subwoofer is picking up common mode noise on 20m, which isn't > > terribly surprising, as this happens a good bit with consumer-grade > > electronics. I'm hoping to mitigate this with some substantial ferrite > > clamps for all three connections and as many turns as I can get through > > them. > > > > My hunch is that the best place in the path to clamp them on will be > > immediately before the connection to the speaker itself, on the speaker > > side of the isolation transformer, but I wanted to get the opinions of > > folks who have solved this problem in the past to see if there's any > reason > > the ferrites should come before the isolation transformers. > > > > Thoughts? > > > > Nick > > > ______________________________________________________________ > Elecraft mailing list > Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft > Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm > Post: mailto:[hidden email] > > This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net > Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html > Message delivered to [hidden email] > -- *N6OL* Saying something doesn't make it true. Belief in something doesn't make it real. And if you have to lie to support a position, that position is not worth supporting. ------------------------------ Message: 22 Date: Sat, 23 May 2020 12:26:37 -0500 From: "Dr. William J. Schmidt" <[hidden email]> To: <[hidden email]> Cc: [hidden email] Subject: Re: [Elecraft] KPA-1500 power supply fan noise Message-ID: <057201d63127$51439f00$f3cadd00$@wjschmidt.com> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8" I have a little bit different question. I've been stuck on J6 since Feb 20 and not much to do here but play radio. The K3 and KPA1500 are on 24/7 in a dusty humid atmosphere (but made over 86,000 QSOs so far since Feb 20). I can imagine a time in the NEAR FUTURE where the fans will need to be replaced due to use. Is there any recognition of this with a "replacement fan kit" when it's time...? Dr. William J. Schmidt - K9HZ J68HZ 8P6HK ZF2HZ PJ4/K9HZ VP5/K9HZ PJ2/K9HZ Moderator ? North American QRO Group at Groups.IO. email: [hidden email] -----Original Message----- From: [hidden email] [mailto:[hidden email]] On Behalf Of Eric Swartz WA6HHQ - Elecraft Sent: Saturday, May 23, 2020 10:53 AM To: Larry (K8UT) <[hidden email]> Cc: [hidden email] Subject: Re: [Elecraft] KPA-1500 power supply fan noise Hi Peter, If the amp is on, there needs to be at least some PS fan activity at a low speed to cool the PS in idle. What s/n is your 1500? On later s/ns we changed a resistor in the ps fan circuit to slow them down a bit more. An alternative is to swap your ant 1 and 2 connections, putting the 6m ant on ANT 1. Then you can listen to 6m with the amp off. 73, Eric elecraft.com --- Sent from my iPhone 6S > On May 23, 2020, at 8:10 AM, Larry (K8UT) <[hidden email]> wrote: > > ?Peter > > I built a slightly longer cable to match the length of the control cable that came with the amplifier (about 3 feet longer if I recall correctly). > > This allows the PS to operate "remote" in a closet with the door closed. > > -larry (K8UT) > > ------ Original Message ------ > From: "Peter Dougherty" <[hidden email]> > To: [hidden email] > Sent: 2020-05-23 10:33:19 AM > Subject: [Elecraft] KPA-1500 power supply fan noise > >> Is there any way to power off the fans (or lower their RPM) on the >> PSU if the amp is in standby mode? >> >> I would like to keep my rig on 6m throughout the day during the Es >> The problem is my 6m antenna is on antenna port 2 on the KPA, which >> requires the amp to be powered up. I only need to TX when a new grid >> pops up, but I do like to monitor the band during the day while I'm >> working. My XYL is working from home, and is in the same room for >> about 9 or 10 hours a day, and the noise after 10 minutes was too much for her. Any suggestions? >> >> Please-n-thanks. >> >> --------------------------------------------- >> 73 and Good DX >> Peter, W2IRT >> >> >> >> President, North Jersey DX Association >> >> DXCC Card Checker >> Letter O Manager, ARRL Incoming 2nd District QSL bureau >> >> >> >> ______________________________________________________________ >> Elecraft mailing list >> Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft >> Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm >> Post: mailto:[hidden email] >> >> This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this >> email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html Message delivered to >> [hidden email] > > ______________________________________________________________ > Elecraft mailing list > Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft > Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm > Post: mailto:[hidden email] > > This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email > list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html Message delivered to > [hidden email] Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:[hidden email] This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html Message delivered to [hidden email] -- This email has been checked for viruses by AVG. https://www.avg.com ------------------------------ Message: 23 Date: Sat, 23 May 2020 10:49:40 -0700 From: Walter Underwood <[hidden email]> To: elecraft <[hidden email]> Subject: Re: [Elecraft] ferrites for subwoofer: before or after isolation transformers? Message-ID: <[hidden email]> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii I know you already ran the cables, but twisted pair would probably help. wunder K6WRU Walter Underwood CM87wj http://observer.wunderwood.org/ (my blog) > On May 23, 2020, at 9:37 AM, Nicklas Johnson <[hidden email]> wrote: > > The backstory as briefly as I can make it: I wanted to place my home > theater subwoofer in the corner of our living room; doing so required > running two speaker wires and a coaxial cable under the house and plugging > the subwoofer into a different outlet than the AV receiver; this in turn > resulted in ground-loop hum (because of a tiny difference in potential > between the two outlets) which I worked around with a set of 1:1 > low-frequency audio isolation transformers. The subwoofer is of a type > that produces a signal based not only on the LFE channel, but also on the > left and right speaker channels, thus the two speaker wires along with the > coaxial cable. > > Now the subwoofer is picking up common mode noise on 20m, which isn't > terribly surprising, as this happens a good bit with consumer-grade > electronics. I'm hoping to mitigate this with some substantial ferrite > clamps for all three connections and as many turns as I can get through > them. > > My hunch is that the best place in the path to clamp them on will be > immediately before the connection to the speaker itself, on the speaker > side of the isolation transformer, but I wanted to get the opinions of > folks who have solved this problem in the past to see if there's any > the ferrites should come before the isolation transformers. > > Thoughts? > > Nick > > -- > *N6OL* > Saying something doesn't make it true. Belief in something doesn't make it > real. And if you have to lie to support a position, that position is not > worth supporting. > ______________________________________________________________ > Elecraft mailing list > Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft > Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm > Post: mailto:[hidden email] > > This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net > Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html > Message delivered to [hidden email] ------------------------------ _______________________________________________ Elecraft mailing list Post to: [hidden email] http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft You must be a subscriber to post. Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com End of Elecraft Digest, Vol 193, Issue 39 ***************************************** ______________________________________________________________ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:[hidden email] This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html Message delivered to [hidden email] |
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