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Damon,
From your description of the 'pin counting', I wonder if you counted correctly - an integrated circuit is numbered counterclockwise around the chip starting with pin 1 which is identified with a dot or a bar or a tapered edge or some distinguishing characteristic. Pin 8 is on the same side of the IC as pin 1, but at the opposite end. The voltage at U1 pin 8 should be the same as the voltage on the anode of D1. If these are both positive voltages, about the only thing that could cause a problem like that is if D2 and D3 are installed backwards - check the orientation. 73, Don W3FPR W4HDM wrote: > > Hi All, > > I just finished building and installing the KIO2 and AUX2 Mods and > while dong the testing on page 11 (second from the bottom) “… Connect > the (-) lead ….. positive to pin 8 of U1 on the KIO2 board. You should > see a negative reading of between -6 and – 12 VDC” I show positive > 5.02v and I am not sure how to proceed. I counted the pins from pin > one left to right top to bottom. Firmware ver. 2.04 & 1.09 > > FYI this K2 was a K2/100 and the KIO2 was installed with the amp. So > the control board mod on page 10 was done when I received the rig. I > removed the amp and now use the K2 as QRP. I am installing a new KIO2 > kit so that I can eventually install the amp in the EC2 or 100w Tuner > as well as have pc control capabilities. > > Any help is appreciated … Thanks! > > Damon-W4HDM-K2-#473 > > * * > > ------------------------------------------------------------------------ > > ______________________________________________________________ > Elecraft mailing list > Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft > Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm > Post: mailto:[hidden email] > > This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net > Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html > ------------------------------------------------------------------------ > > > No virus found in this incoming message. > Checked by AVG - www.avg.com > Version: 8.0.237 / Virus Database: 270.10.23/1951 - Release Date: 02/13/09 06:51:00 > > Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:[hidden email] This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html |
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Damon,
Here is where things get hard and complicated -- 2 wide header pins ar numbered differently than ICs. Start at pin 1, then pin 2 is on the other side of the two rows, pin 3 is next to pin 1, etc. Net result is that the odd numbered pins are on one side and the even numbered are on the other. I hesitate to mention that the DBxx series of connectors is numbered differently than either ICs or header pins - sory, but it is a confusing world. The one thing that helps is that the Elecraft schematics show the proper numbering of the pins. Other schematics are not so kind and simply mark the pin number, but show the connector or IC as a block with the pins numbered in some random order. The pin that is cut off on the header is pin 4 which is unused (pin 1 is at the top of the control board toward the edge). Your K2 must have had the KPA100 installed at one time, and for that installation, pin 4 is cut off and the connecting ribbon cable is keyed. Since the KIO2 AUX board cannot be successfully installed upside down and allow the top cover to still be installed, keying of the mating connector is not necessary. BTW - if you have the KAT2 as well as the KIO2 installed in that K2, the green wire on the KAT2 connector must be at the top. 73, Don W3FPR W4HDM wrote: > Don, > > Thanks for your help, yes that was the problem ...my lack of > experience! After counting the pins the correct way the voltage is now > within specs with a -9.6. > > My electronics building started just 2 days ago. I went to the local > electronics store (Fry's) and purchased a Hakko 936 soldering station and a > cheap sounds to lights kit to see if I was capable enough to continue. It > worked after assembly so I moved on to my K2 and built the 160m mod ... hey > it worked as well and looked pretty good! SO .. this KIO2 is my 3rd attempt > at building. Now that I have the pin counting down I'll proceed with crossed > fingers! > > BTW ... at P4 on the control board where the AUX board will plug in, pin 9 > (using your method) has been cut out and there is no wire going to it from > the tuner. Is this a normal mod and should I cut any of the pins from the > new AUX board? I assume it was cut to prevent some sort of short if it was > plugged into wrong? > > Thanks again! > > Damon > > Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:[hidden email] This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html |
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Damon,
I am not certain which level of the K2 manual you have, but I checked page 100 of the latest manual available for download at the Elecraft website and did not find anything like you mention. If you check page 95 of the latest download version, the DISPLAY button function is very well described. Yes, the real time clock is displayed if the KDSP2 or the KAF2 options are installed, if boht are absent, the DISPLAY button alternates between frequency and Voltage/Current draw. 73, Don W3FPR W4HDM wrote: > Thanks Don! > > After your last email I read through the remainder of the manual for the > install and found that yes the pins are labeled on the schematic on the > back! Duh. I now understand how these pins are labeled. > > Yes, my K2 had the KAP100 and I removed it with the intention of mounting it > in the KAT100-2 as a separate unit. For now I have the other top installed > with the KAT2 and battery option. I still have a ways to go to get this rig > up to date but I'm working on it! > > After connecting the K2 to my PC and turning on the port it was recognized > by HamRadioDeluxe and seemed to function as it should. > > One last question for the reflector on this install and I should be done. > > My K2's Owner's Manual .. page 100 states "Once the host adapter is > installed you will have three display modes freq/mode, real time clock, and > voltage/current displays" Mine only has the original 2 ...no clock. Does > this option only show up if you have the KDSP2 installed? > > "73" > Damon > > > > -----Original Message----- > From: Don Wilhelm [mailto:[hidden email]] > Sent: Friday, February 13, 2009 7:52 PM > To: W4HDM > Cc: [hidden email] > Subject: Re: [Elecraft] K2 - KIO2 AUX I/O Install > > Damon, > > Here is where things get hard and complicated -- > 2 wide header pins ar numbered differently than ICs. Start at pin 1, > then pin 2 is on the other side of the two rows, pin 3 is next to pin 1, > etc. Net result is that the odd numbered pins are on one side and the > even numbered are on the other. I hesitate to mention that the DBxx > series of connectors is numbered differently than either ICs or header > pins - sory, but it is a confusing world. > The one thing that helps is that the Elecraft schematics show the proper > numbering of the pins. Other schematics are not so kind and simply mark > the pin number, but show the connector or IC as a block with the pins > numbered in some random order. > > The pin that is cut off on the header is pin 4 which is unused (pin 1 is > at the top of the control board toward the edge). Your K2 must have had > the KPA100 installed at one time, and for that installation, pin 4 is > cut off and the connecting ribbon cable is keyed. Since the KIO2 AUX > board cannot be successfully installed upside down and allow the top > cover to still be installed, keying of the mating connector is not > necessary. > > BTW - if you have the KAT2 as well as the KIO2 installed in that K2, the > green wire on the KAT2 connector must be at the top. > > 73, > Don W3FPR > > > W4HDM wrote: > >> Don, >> >> Thanks for your help, yes that was the problem ...my lack of >> experience! After counting the pins the correct way the voltage is now >> within specs with a -9.6. >> >> My electronics building started just 2 days ago. I went to the local >> electronics store (Fry's) and purchased a Hakko 936 soldering station and >> > a > >> cheap sounds to lights kit to see if I was capable enough to continue. It >> worked after assembly so I moved on to my K2 and built the 160m mod ... >> > hey > >> it worked as well and looked pretty good! SO .. this KIO2 is my 3rd >> > attempt > >> at building. Now that I have the pin counting down I'll proceed with >> > crossed > >> fingers! >> >> BTW ... at P4 on the control board where the AUX board will plug in, pin 9 >> (using your method) has been cut out and there is no wire going to it from >> the tuner. Is this a normal mod and should I cut any of the pins from the >> new AUX board? I assume it was cut to prevent some sort of short if it was >> plugged into wrong? >> >> Thanks again! >> >> Damon >> >> >> > > ______________________________________________________________ > Elecraft mailing list > Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft > Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm > Post: mailto:[hidden email] > > This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net > Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html > ------------------------------------------------------------------------ > > > No virus found in this incoming message. > Checked by AVG - www.avg.com > Version: 8.0.237 / Virus Database: 270.10.23/1951 - Release Date: 02/13/09 06:51:00 > > Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:[hidden email] This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html |
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