Re: Rubber knobs

[Dave G.]

I use the rubber ring from the Yaesu FT-100 fitted over
the K2's knob. It's a tight fit.....

I like it ! :-)

Dave KK7SS

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[K7MAS]

Hello All:

A little levity for weekend.  I have been inundated with pornographic spam and e-mails lately.  So, when I saw e-mails regarding Rubber Knobs and Tight Skirts, I thought the worse.  I'm glad it was all some nice clean Amateur Radio & Elecraft traffic.

73, Mark, K7MAS
K2 874
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[Brian Mury-3]

On Fri, 2005-04-03 at 12:55 -0800, Mark Sandler wrote:
> A little levity for weekend.  I have been inundated with pornographic
> spam and e-mails lately.  So, when I saw e-mails regarding Rubber
> Knobs and Tight Skirts, I thought the worse.  I'm glad it was all some
> nice clean Amateur Radio & Elecraft traffic.

At least it wasn't tight knobs and rubber skirts... :-/

For those who get lots of spam, there are some good spam filtering
solutions, some of which are free. I recommend a Bayesian filter. It's a
statistical technique that works by first learning what the contents of
your typical ham and spam are, then applying that knowledge to filter
incoming mail. Once it has been trained it is incredibly accurate - a
well trained Bayesian filter can approach 100% accuracy. If it does make
a mistake, you can retrain it with the email that it got wrong; it just
keeps getting more accurate.

I use SpamAssassin on Linux (which uses other filtering techniques as
well as Bayesian filtering). I'm not sure if it's available for Windows
or not. I have very few false negatives, and *no* false positives (i.e.
once in a while it misses a spam, but *never* identifies a good email as
spam - not bad for over 500 emails per day).

A good place to start for more information on Bayesian filtering is Paul
Graham's site:

http://www.paulgraham.com/antispam.html

If you don't care how it works and just want links to download software,
there's some links in the FAQ:

http://www.paulgraham.com/spamfaq.html

As always, Google is your friend. Try searching on "bayesian", or
something like "free windows bayesian", and you'll find lots of
information, and quite a few good free software packages. If you're
using Linux, just get SpamAssassin...

Sorry for the off-topic post - as punishment I'll buy some more Elecraft
kits. :-)

--
73, Brian
VE7NGR

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[Tom Skinner]

Hello Group,

I've been kinda lurking for a while and haven't seen much about power
supplies.  

Is there a 'supply of choice' for the K2?  It's needs are modest, and
present no difficulty, but for the 100 watt overshoes - well, that might be
a different story.

While I'm on the subject of power...

Is it possible to purchase the power amp and tuner, build 'em both in a
single enclosure and operate them from the K2 while leaving the K2 in a pure
QRP state?

73,

Tom


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[KK7P]

> Is it possible to purchase the power amp and tuner, build 'em both in a
> single enclosure and operate them from the K2 while leaving the K2 in a pure
> QRP state?

See <http://home.pacbell.net/johngreb/k2_100_in_ec2.pdf> and
<http://www.kk7p.com/k2kpa100.html>.

73,

Lyle, KK7P

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[Don Wilhelm-3]

Tom,

There is no 'power supply of choice' that I am aware of except for MY
choice!  I don't like the noise potential of switching supplies (but I admit
many are reported as no noise problem).  I use a linear supply and keep it
on the floor under the operating table.  Transformers can couple into the K2
and cause a bit of hum on the transmitted signal if positioned close (keep
them 2 feet or more away from the K2).

If you are considering battery power for your QRP K2 (either the internal
KBT2 or an external gel cell), you might want to take some hints from the
'SmartCharger' article on my website www.qsl.net/w3fpr.

I use the K2 internal battery and the SmartCharger on my QRP K2 and use an
Astron RS-35A to power my separately mounted KPA100.  Battery Powered K2 to
go and 100 watts from the home QTH - just pick it up, disconnect 4 cables
(KIO2, Antenna, Key, and SmartCharger lines) and it is ready to go portable.

73,
Don W3FPR

> -----Original Message-----
>
> I've been kinda lurking for a while and haven't seen much about power
> supplies.
>
> Is there a 'supply of choice' for the K2?  It's needs are modest, and
> present no difficulty, but for the 100 watt overshoes - well,
> that might be
> a different story.
>
> While I'm on the subject of power...
>
> Is it possible to purchase the power amp and tuner, build 'em both in a
> single enclosure and operate them from the K2 while leaving the
> K2 in a pure
> QRP state?
>
>

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[Steve & Anne Ray]

Tom Skinner wrote:

I've been kinda lurking for a while and haven't seen much about power
supplies. 

Is there a 'supply of choice' for the K2?  It's needs are modest, and
present no difficulty, but for the 100 watt overshoes - well, that might be
a different story.

The following is my experience with power supplies.

I was using an Astron 12A (9 A continuous, 12 A ICS) power supply for my K2
and KTA100, and an Astron 20A (16 A continuous and 20 A ICS) for my KPA
100.  The KPA100 and KAT100 are in a separate EC2 case.  Both power supplies
are under my desk, so the transformers’ magnetic field will not mess up the
K2.  I had them set up so I could go QRP by only turning on the Astron 12A
for the K2 and KAT100 from the top of my desk and then if I wanted QRO I
would turn on the Astron 20A.

The above worked great till I started to work 80 CW and got complaints of a
rough CW signal whether or not I had the KPA 100 on or off.   In other
words, if I was running the K2 with the Astron 12A I got rf into the power
line to the K2, (note this was also with the K2 into a good 50 ohm dummy
load and with power down as low as 5 watts) I tried another power supply for
the K2 and found the problem was in the Astron 12A.   The solution was to
use a Tripp Lite PR10B (7.5 A continuous, 10 A ICS) for the K2 and KAT100.
This cured the rf problem on 80 meters.   

For general interest, I do not have an amp meter to measure the power supply
current for the KPA100, but I did measure the voltage drop at the Astron 20A
output terminals when it is driving the KPA100 at 100 watts.  The volt drop
was 50 mV, from 13.78 volts to 13.73 volts, in other words insignificant.  
This was on all bands 160 to 10 meters (except 60 meters, do not have that
mod) and verifying my rf output power at 100 W using a scope.  The power
drop at the terminals of the Tripp Lite which is used for the K2 and KAT100
was less then 20 mV with the K2 putting out 10 W, again verifying my output
power using a scope.

I am not into portable operation, so it is setup permanently with switches
(Computer AC power distribution panel that fits under my monitor) and power
supplies under my desk. I just turn on the main switch and the K2 switch and
I am QRP with the K2 and KAT100, by powering up the Tripp Lite power
supply,and if I go QRO with the KPA100 turn on the switch for the Astron
20A. 


72,
Steve Ray K4JPN ex K1VKW
EM82ep Warner Robins GA
Elecraft K2 1422 & KPA-100
Heath Fan HW-101, HW-8
http://www.thewinstonator.com/k4jpn.htm







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[k4tmc]

Ditto here!

73,
Henry - K4TMC
K2 #3137
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