Remote KAT500
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Thanks for all the input on my plan to remote my KAT500 to the base of a
flag pole. Plans are taking shape. I still have a couple of specific questions: 1. It appears that the "AUX cable" can be dispensed with using instead the KEY OUT line from the amplifier. Before I give up on the "AUX cable," does anyone know how long a cable I could have? My run will be about 120' [~37 m]. I think the signals in that cable are TTL levels but I don't know how CAT5/CAT6 twisted pair cables might work over that distance. 2. With the KAT500 in its box at the antenna base, I'm trying to figure out how I would "train" the autotuner. Before our move, I set my K3 to the center of each "bin" on each band, and tapped TUNE. I did this for each of the three antennas I had on the appropriate bands. It took awhile. Thereafter, I ran the KAT500 in MAN mode and it recalled the right settings as I tuned in receive. The "AUX cable" was connected. That method isn't going to work well with a remote KAT500. 3. How do I get the cables into the weatherproof box? Should I mount connectors [doesn't seem very good to me ... PL-259 exposed to the weather], or are there weatherproof entrance fittings. One of the cables will be 120 VAC, probably a heavy extension cord [for 12V supply and the fixture to light the flag at night. As has been pointed out, the not-so-expensive-box will be housing a fairly-expensive-KAT500. 73, Fred K6DGW - Northern California Contest Club - CU in the Cal QSO Party 1-2 Oct 2016 - www.cqp.org ______________________________________________________________ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:[hidden email] This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html Message delivered to [hidden email] |
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Hi Fred,
Best to avoid connectors mounted -on- the box if possible, as it is another possible point of water entry through screw holes and connector holes. Mil spec waterproof connectors are expensive. Of course it goes without saying that connectors for 120 V AC need to be suitable items for outdoor use. Use suitable panel mounted cable glands and pass the cables through them. You can then fit connectors on the ends of short cables from the enclosure for disconnecting them when you require, as it is much easier to wrap suitable self amalgamating tape and top covering of PVC tape for UV protection around an inline socket and plug than around a panel mounted socket on the enclosure. Good luck with your project. 73 from David GM4JJJ > On 21 Jan 2016, at 19:17, Fred Jensen <[hidden email]> wrote: > > Thanks for all the input on my plan to remote my KAT500 to the base of a flag pole. Plans are taking shape. I still have a couple of specific questions: > 3. How do I get the cables into the weatherproof box? Should I mount connectors [doesn't seem very good to me ... PL-259 exposed to the weather], or are there weatherproof entrance fittings. One of the cables will be 120 VAC, probably a heavy extension cord [for 12V supply and the fixture to light the flag at night. > ______________________________________________________________ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:[hidden email] This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html Message delivered to [hidden email] |
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My 2 cents on remote mounting and dealing with non-salted air.
I have long given up on keeping the water 100% out of the box. I am 100% in favour of keeping electronics dry (and there is a difference) and bug free. As an example, we had a linksys router 80ft up a tower in a tupperware container with no bottom in it for 8 years in Northern Ontario (very HOT and very very cold). It never got wet and worked flawlessly. Outside air was allowed to flow all around it. Everytime I tried to keep something dry in a box, all it did was trap the water and high humidity inside. :) I know a WISP operator that now does exactly the same thing. It is easier to keep it dry and water resistant that waterproof. Mike va3mw On Thu, Jan 21, 2016 at 3:05 PM, David Anderson <[hidden email]> wrote: > Hi Fred, > > Best to avoid connectors mounted -on- the box if possible, as it is > another possible point of water entry through screw holes and connector > holes. Mil spec waterproof connectors are expensive. > > Of course it goes without saying that connectors for 120 V AC need to be > suitable items for outdoor use. > > Use suitable panel mounted cable glands and pass the cables through them. > > You can then fit connectors on the ends of short cables from the enclosure > for disconnecting them when you require, as it is much easier to wrap > suitable self amalgamating tape and top covering of PVC tape for UV > protection around an inline socket and plug than around a panel mounted > socket on the enclosure. > > Good luck with your project. > > 73 from David GM4JJJ > > > On 21 Jan 2016, at 19:17, Fred Jensen <[hidden email]> wrote: > > > > Thanks for all the input on my plan to remote my KAT500 to the base of a > flag pole. Plans are taking shape. I still have a couple of specific > questions: > > > > 3. How do I get the cables into the weatherproof box? Should I mount > connectors [doesn't seem very good to me ... PL-259 exposed to the > weather], or are there weatherproof entrance fittings. One of the cables > will be 120 VAC, probably a heavy extension cord [for 12V supply and the > fixture to light the flag at night. > > > > ______________________________________________________________ > Elecraft mailing list > Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft > Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm > Post: mailto:[hidden email] > > This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net > Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html > Message delivered to [hidden email] > Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:[hidden email] This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html Message delivered to [hidden email] |
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In reply to this post by k6dgw
1. The AUX cable... twisted pair cable or better, shielded twisted
pair cable, would be nice to use, but typically only has 4-pair (8 conductors), and the KAT-500 DB-15 pinout shows straight through wiring of TEN (10) conductors (or 9 if you don't use have to have the ALC). You COULD get it down to 8 IF you only used one ground conductor and then di-plexed it on each end. I would NOT do this without a CLEAR understanding why there are 2 grounds there to begin with. CAT-5 when used with Ethernet has a max run spec of 100 meters (I've run them longer) and CAT-6 is the same EXCEPT it derates to 55 meters for 10 gig data rate. So, the cable isn't an issue... probably. It has to do with what signal types and levels are put on the interface, and what the receiving end (both the ATU and the PA) need to SEE. Definitely doable, IMHO. But I'd need more info as to the interface specifications to offer you a "will work" solution vs. a "should work" solution. Without ANY additional info, I would TRY it this way: Use TWO (2) runs of CAT-6 to replace the AUX cable. I'd ONLY put 4 signal wires on each cable. I'd pair EACH signal with a ground... IAW, use one conductor for the signal and its pair-mate as a ground. YMMV, and I am not responsible if you let the smoke out of something. ;-) 3. Cable entry to box: Personally, I would NOT put cable junctions external to the box... especially a 259 pair (I don't use 259 connectors EVER outside). There are cable "glands" made for various sizes of cable. Use the appropriate size for each cable. ONE cable per gland. They are water-proof (resistant actually) based on their rating. Put the glands on the bottom preferably, side NOT facing prevailing storm direction next, but never on top. When you install the gland housing on the box, seal it properly as extra insurance. Using glands will ALSO avoid the additional insertion loss and potential point of failure of adding an additional connector, jumper wire, and moisture ingress on the feedline(s), etc. Feel free to email me direct... 73, ______________________ Clay Autery On 1/21/2016 1:17 PM, Fred Jensen wrote: > > 1. It appears that the "AUX cable" can be dispensed with using > instead the KEY OUT line from the amplifier. Before I give up on the > "AUX cable," does anyone know how long a cable I could have? My run > will be about 120' [~37 m]. I think the signals in that cable are TTL > levels but I don't know how CAT5/CAT6 twisted pair cables might work > over that distance. > > 2. With the KAT500 in its box at the antenna base, I'm trying to > figure out how I would "train" the autotuner. Before our move, I set > my K3 to the center of each "bin" on each band, and tapped TUNE. I > did this for each of the three antennas I had on the appropriate > bands. It took awhile. Thereafter, I ran the KAT500 in MAN mode and > it recalled the right settings as I tuned in receive. The "AUX cable" > was connected. That method isn't going to work well with a remote KAT500. > > 3. How do I get the cables into the weatherproof box? Should I mount > connectors [doesn't seem very good to me ... PL-259 exposed to the > weather], or are there weatherproof entrance fittings. One of the > cables will be 120 VAC, probably a heavy extension cord [for 12V > supply and the fixture to light the flag at night. > > As has been pointed out, the not-so-expensive-box will be housing a > fairly-expensive-KAT500. ______________________________________________________________ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:[hidden email] This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html Message delivered to [hidden email] |
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In reply to this post by k6dgw
Fred,
I have used wx-proof fittings designed for small electrical conduit and/or cables to bring both ext cords, heavy power cable and RG-8 sized coax into outdoor compartments. Found them at local building and electrical supply. Typically are plastic with rubber stopper and compression nut for fitting/sealing. Stopper come with a range of hole sizes for cable. I use bulkhead coax adapters on a 1/4-inch aluminum plate in a large rectangular wall opening to the house. I would not do that if doing it over and instead bring cables in thru large PVC nipples. Do the lightning abatement outside the house. If you do not change cables often you could seal with spray in foam insulation. Commercial installations do a similar thing with plastic entrance pipes that can accommodate three hardlines. They have a rubber membranes with split openings for the cable. Usually the entrance has a cable box. But that stuff is real expensive so I make my own for ham radio. 73, Ed ------------- 3. How do I get the cables into the weatherproof box? Should I mount connectors [doesn't seem very good to me ... PL-259 exposed to the weather], or are there weatherproof entrance fittings. One of the cables will be 120 VAC, probably a heavy extension cord [for 12V supply and the fixture to light the flag at night. As has been pointed out, the not-so-expensive-box will be housing a fairly-expensive-KAT500. 73, Fred K6DGW - Northern California Contest Club - CU in the Cal QSO Party 1-2 Oct 2016 - www.cqp.org 73, Ed - KL7UW http://www.kl7uw.com "Kits made by KL7UW" Dubus Mag business: [hidden email] ______________________________________________________________ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:[hidden email] This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html Message delivered to [hidden email] |
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In reply to this post by k6dgw
Hi,
Interesting thread. We have seen everything from using a bottomless Tupperware container with a single computer interface in it to a complete house entry system. My remote CAT500 box is somewhere in between, but closer to an oversize Tupperware box than anything else. I don't have an amplifier so I don't think I can help you with question 1. On the cable entry question, in my case just having the bottom of the box wide open with cables coming in with drip loops have worked very well and at least I have seen some support for this approach (the Tupperware container). Here in CNY we don't have a huge critter problem, just some spider webs to wipe down once in a while. Wasps seem to prefer it elsewhere as others have noted. AB2TC - Knut
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In reply to this post by GM4JJJ
One popular brand of panel mount (and other types) liquid tight bushings
is Heyco: http://www.heyco.com/ <http://www.heyco.com/> KF7P Metalwerks sells cable glands that fit coax cables. See below, about 2/3 of the way down the page: http://www.kf7p.com/KF7P/EntrancePanels.html On 1/21/2016 2:05 PM, David Anderson wrote: > Hi Fred, > > Best to avoid connectors mounted -on- the box if possible, as it is another possible point of water entry through screw holes and connector holes. Mil spec waterproof connectors are expensive. > > Of course it goes without saying that connectors for 120 V AC need to be suitable items for outdoor use. > > Use suitable panel mounted cable glands and pass the cables through them. > > You can then fit connectors on the ends of short cables from the enclosure for disconnecting them when you require, as it is much easier to wrap suitable self amalgamating tape and top covering of PVC tape for UV protection around an inline socket and plug than around a panel mounted socket on the enclosure. > > Good luck with your project. > > 73 from David GM4JJJ > >> On 21 Jan 2016, at 19:17, Fred Jensen <[hidden email]> wrote: >> >> Thanks for all the input on my plan to remote my KAT500 to the base of a flag pole. Plans are taking shape. I still have a couple of specific questions: > >> 3. How do I get the cables into the weatherproof box? Should I mount connectors [doesn't seem very good to me ... PL-259 exposed to the weather], or are there weatherproof entrance fittings. One of the cables will be 120 VAC, probably a heavy extension cord [for 12V supply and the fixture to light the flag at night. >> > ______________________________________________________________ > Elecraft mailing list > Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft > Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm > Post: mailto:[hidden email] > > This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net > Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html > Message delivered to [hidden email] > > > -- > 73, > > Gary K9GS > > Greater Milwaukee DX Association: http://www.gmdxa.org > Society of Midwest Contesters: http://www.w9smc.com > CW Ops #1032 http://www.cwops.org > > ************************************************ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:[hidden email] This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html Message delivered to [hidden email] |
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