Removing the 160 board

[Gary Hvizdak]

On Friday 19 JAN 2007 Gregg (WB8LZG) wrote ...

"... what components need to be removed to remove the 160 board from the K2
for troubleshooting?"


Gregg,

    Referring to the lower right portion of this diagram ...
http://www.unpcbs.com/common/diagram.png ... I suggest you install the
jumper between J14-1 and J14-8 rather than J14-7.  This is because J14-7,8
and 9 are all tied together so if you are accidentally off-by-one it won't
matter.  (NOTE!  Pin J14-1 isn't marked on the RF board's silkscreen, it's
on the left when looking at the RF board from the front.)

    WHATEVER YOU DO, PLEASE DON'T BE MISLEAD BY THE SILKSCREEN ON THE RF
BOARD WHICH MAKES IT "SEEM" LIKE THE JUMPER WIRE GOES BETWEEN PINS 1 AND 6,
BUT IT DOESN'T.  INSTALLING IT THERE WOULD GROUND YOUR ANTENNA AND LIKELY
BLOW YOUR FINALS IF YOU WERE TO TRANSMIT!

    FYI, all PCB mounted options can be replaced with suitable un-module
option bypass headers.  For $10.50 plus $5.00 shipping and handling, you can
have a complete set which are suitable for permanent installation as shown
in this image ... http://www.unpcbs.com/photos/4a/full/1.jpg

73,
Gary, KI4GGX, K2 #4067
http://www.unpcbs.com/

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[Ron D'Eau Claire-2]

Gary, KI4GGX wrote:
IT "SEEM" LIKE THE JUMPER WIRE GOES BETWEEN PINS 1 AND 6, BUT IT DOESN'T.
INSTALLING IT THERE WOULD GROUND YOUR ANTENNA AND LIKELY BLOW YOUR FINALS IF
YOU WERE TO TRANSMIT!

-------------------------

I doubt that would damage the finals. The K2 and K2/100 are very rugged
designs. I know that I've transmitted into an open load (infinite SWR)
accidentally with no adverse effects at both 15 and 100+ watts. .

In any case, when changing setups, it's smart to *always* check the SWR at
low power first to ensure things are as they should be.

Of course, not hearing any signals when the antenna was connected might be a
good "first clue" <G>.

Ron AC7AC

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