Repositioning Components soldered too far from PCB

[Rodney Macpherson]

I have tried the following:-
1. push with finger [too painful]
2. Use a glove [too bulky]
3. Use pliers [risk of damaging component]
Possible solutions
Push with Cork, with groove cut in end to reposition component
Push with small Alligator clip.

Praticasl solutions would be welcomed,

Rod

--
Rodney E. Macpherson,
Ebro 2869, Dto. 1302,
Las Condes,
Santiago. Chile
T:56 [2] 231-2992
Mobile [phone]
Correo: [hidden email]
VE7BCC/CE3

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[Mark Bayern]

Any 'pushing' on the components risks damage to the board. I'd
consider it the same as rework.You either need a good desoldering
system and some skill to clear the hole, or you destroy the component
and replace it.

A practical solution is to simply live with elevated component.

Mark  AD5SSS

On 4/3/07, Rodney Macpherson <[hidden email]> wrote:

> I have tried the following:-
> 1. push with finger [too painful]
> 2. Use a glove [too bulky]
> 3. Use pliers [risk of damaging component]
> Possible solutions
> Push with Cork, with groove cut in end to reposition component
> Push with small Alligator clip.
>
> Praticasl solutions would be welcomed,
>
> Rod
>

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[Brett gazdzinski-2]

 I had no problem pushing some components down
after the initial soldering using my finger while
heating the pads below. I do not use much force at all
and alternate the heat on the pads.

I used a temp controlled soldering station set at
a low temp to build the entire rig, and even removed some
parts and turned them around without any damage.
For removal I used a cheap solder sucker, then gently
wiggle the pins till loose.

I cant see damaging any parts or the board unless you use way to much heat.

No way I would build the kit without the temp controlled station
and a magnifying light.

Brett
N2DTS

> -----Original Message-----
> From: [hidden email]
> [mailto:[hidden email]] On Behalf Of Mark Bayern
> Sent: Tuesday, April 03, 2007 10:29 AM
> To: Rodney Macpherson
> Cc: [hidden email]
> Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Repositioning Components soldered too
> far from PCB
>
> Any 'pushing' on the components risks damage to the board. I'd
> consider it the same as rework.You either need a good desoldering
> system and some skill to clear the hole, or you destroy the component
> and replace it.
>
> A practical solution is to simply live with elevated component.
>
> Mark  AD5SSS
>
> On 4/3/07, Rodney Macpherson <[hidden email]> wrote:
> > I have tried the following:-
> > 1. push with finger [too painful]
> > 2. Use a glove [too bulky]
> > 3. Use pliers [risk of damaging component]
> > Possible solutions
> > Push with Cork, with groove cut in end to reposition component
> > Push with small Alligator clip.
> >
> > Praticasl solutions would be welcomed,
> >
> > Rod
> >
> _______________________________________________
> Elecraft mailing list
> Post to: [hidden email]
> You must be a subscriber to post to the list.
> Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.):
>  http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft   
>
> Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm
> Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
>

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[n6wg]

Buenos dias, amigo Rod

Try pushing with the eraser of a wooden pencil.
This gives you a non-skid pusher with a wood handle.
Also keeps finger tips from getting burned while
melting the solder to allow the part to move.
73, Bob N6WG

----- Original Message -----
From: "Rodney Macpherson" <[hidden email]>
To: <[hidden email]>
Sent: Tuesday, April 03, 2007 7:11 AM
Subject: [Elecraft] Repositioning Components soldered too far from PCB

> I have tried the following:-
> 1. push with finger [too painful]
> 2. Use a glove [too bulky]
> 3. Use pliers [risk of damaging component]
> Possible solutions
> Push with Cork, with groove cut in end to reposition component
> Push with small Alligator clip.
>
> Praticasl solutions would be welcomed,
>
> Rod
>
> --
> Rodney E. Macpherson,
> Ebro 2869, Dto. 1302,
> Las Condes,
> Santiago. Chile
> T:56 [2] 231-2992
> Mobile [phone]
> Correo: [hidden email]
> VE7BCC/CE3
>
> _______________________________________________
> Elecraft mailing list
> Post to: [hidden email]
> You must be a subscriber to post to the list.
> Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.):
>  http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft   
>
> Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm
> Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com

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[Ron D'Eau Claire-2]

In my experience, Brett's right.

Be sure the solder is molten before pressing on the component. If the iron's
hot enough the component body itself (resistor, cap, etc.) shouldn't be so
hot it burns your finger, but if your finger's really tender, put a band-aid
on your fingertip or get a finger cot (used by people counting money,
papers, etc. to make their finger tip grip better and often used in
electronics to avoid contaminating parts with finger oils). Be cautious if
you use a finger cot and touch only the component body. You don't want to
melt it!

Your iron should be at 700F or 750F. The solder in the pad should be molten
within 2 or 3 seconds after applying heat. Use a wet iron. Since you already
have one hand tied up holding the board and pressing down on the component,
touching the solder with the iron to pick up a drop on the tip just before
touching the solder pad is usually the easiest way to ensure quick,
efficient heat transfer to the pad.

If your iron doesn't seem to melt the solder in the pad within 3 seconds of
applying it and your have the temperature set to 700F minimum, make sure the
tip is clean *inside* the iron assembly where it contacts the heating
element. Carbonization there can cause the heat transfer to be very poor,
although the temperature sensor may think it's fine and shut off the heater.


And, after these components are in place, it's a good reminder to *spread
the leads* as described in the manual when installing each part, then check
to see that the parts stay in position against the board when turning the
board over and *before* soldering.

I prefer to solder each part as I go, rather than install a gang of them to
solder all at once. It takes a little longer to do them one-at-a-time, but I
get to check the position of each part immediately and, in doing so, do a
final check that it's the right part in the right place. Actually, I double
check the value and position of the part after I've placed it and spread the
leads and while I'm checking to be sure it's flat against the board *before*
soldering. It's amazing how easily a part can sometimes change value or
"jump" to another position on the board when I'm not looking, especially
after several hours of building. If I find one that has done that I fix it
*before* soldering, then go take a nice long break.

Ron AC7AC



-----Original Message-----

 I had no problem pushing some components down
after the initial soldering using my finger while
heating the pads below. I do not use much force at all
and alternate the heat on the pads.

I used a temp controlled soldering station set at
a low temp to build the entire rig, and even removed some
parts and turned them around without any damage.
For removal I used a cheap solder sucker, then gently
wiggle the pins till loose.

I cant see damaging any parts or the board unless you use way to much heat.

No way I would build the kit without the temp controlled station and a
magnifying light.

Brett
N2DTS

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[Hank Kryger]

Ron is right in his comments.

I'll add a few.  When I solder parts I solder one end and check if the
part is seated correctly, if not,  it is easy to correct.  With a small
pliers I apply  a light pressure to the lead and heat the connection.
After it is cooled somewhat the other lead is soldered and the first
lead is reheated  again to assure proper heating has taken place.  All
this is done under a light with magnifier incorporated in the light
fixture.  A magnifier light is a must when working on a K2 or other mod
kits.

Have fun Hank WA9QJH

On 03, Apr 2007, at 11:01, Ron D'Eau Claire wrote:

> In my experience, Brett's right.
>
> Be sure the solder is molten before pressing on the component. If the
> iron's
> hot enough the component body itself (resistor, cap, etc.) shouldn't
> be so
> hot it burns your finger, but if your finger's really tender, put a
> band-aid
> on your fingertip or get a finger cot (used by people counting money,
> papers, etc. to make their finger tip grip better and often used in
> electronics to avoid contaminating parts with finger oils). Be
> cautious if
> you use a finger cot and touch only the component body. You don't want
> to
> melt it!
>
> Your iron should be at 700F or 750F. The solder in the pad should be
> molten
> within 2 or 3 seconds after applying heat. Use a wet iron. Since you
> already
> have one hand tied up holding the board and pressing down on the
> component,
> touching the solder with the iron to pick up a drop on the tip just
> before
> touching the solder pad is usually the easiest way to ensure quick,
> efficient heat transfer to the pad.
>
> If your iron doesn't seem to melt the solder in the pad within 3
> seconds of
> applying it and your have the temperature set to 700F minimum, make
> sure the
> tip is clean *inside* the iron assembly where it contacts the heating
> element. Carbonization there can cause the heat transfer to be very
> poor,
> although the temperature sensor may think it's fine and shut off the
> heater.
>
>
> And, after these components are in place, it's a good reminder to
> *spread
> the leads* as described in the manual when installing each part, then
> check
> to see that the parts stay in position against the board when turning
> the
> board over and *before* soldering.
>
> I prefer to solder each part as I go, rather than install a gang of
> them to
> solder all at once. It takes a little longer to do them one-at-a-time,
> but I
> get to check the position of each part immediately and, in doing so,
> do a
> final check that it's the right part in the right place. Actually, I
> double
> check the value and position of the part after I've placed it and
> spread the
> leads and while I'm checking to be sure it's flat against the board
> *before*
> soldering. It's amazing how easily a part can sometimes change value or
> "jump" to another position on the board when I'm not looking,
> especially
> after several hours of building. If I find one that has done that I
> fix it
> *before* soldering, then go take a nice long break.
>
> Ron AC7AC
>
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
>
>  I had no problem pushing some components down
> after the initial soldering using my finger while
> heating the pads below. I do not use much force at all
> and alternate the heat on the pads.
>
> I used a temp controlled soldering station set at
> a low temp to build the entire rig, and even removed some
> parts and turned them around without any damage.
> For removal I used a cheap solder sucker, then gently
> wiggle the pins till loose.
>
> I cant see damaging any parts or the board unless you use way to much
> heat.
>
> No way I would build the kit without the temp controlled station and a
> magnifying light.
>
> Brett
> N2DTS
>
> _______________________________________________
> Elecraft mailing list
> Post to: [hidden email]
> You must be a subscriber to post to the list.
> Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.):
>  http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft
>
> Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm
> Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
>
>

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[Brian Mury-3]

On Tue, 2007-04-03 at 09:01 -0700, Ron D'Eau Claire wrote:
> And, after these components are in place, it's a good reminder to *spread
> the leads* as described in the manual when installing each part, then check
> to see that the parts stay in position against the board when turning the
> board over and *before* soldering.

I don't spread the leads at all. I use the little black bits of
antistatic foam that some of the components come in as shims to hold the
components in place when I turn the board over. This gives the component
something to sit on so it doesn't fall out of position. For short
components that are being installed between taller components, I stack
up pieces that are small enough to fit between the taller components.
This works better than spreading the leads, at least for me.


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[Tom Zeltwanger]

Burning your fingers is a required part of building PC boards. And look at all
that new skin you get as a result.

Seriously - I have used needlenose pliers to push or pull leads while applying
some heat to the pad. Never had a problem.

73,

Tom KG3V



Quoting Bob Tellefsen <[hidden email]>:

> Buenos dias, amigo Rod
>
> Try pushing with the eraser of a wooden pencil.
> This gives you a non-skid pusher with a wood handle.
> Also keeps finger tips from getting burned while
> melting the solder to allow the part to move.
> 73, Bob N6WG
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Rodney Macpherson" <[hidden email]>
> To: <[hidden email]>
> Sent: Tuesday, April 03, 2007 7:11 AM
> Subject: [Elecraft] Repositioning Components soldered too far from PCB
>
>
> > I have tried the following:-
> > 1. push with finger [too painful]
> > 2. Use a glove [too bulky]
> > 3. Use pliers [risk of damaging component]
> > Possible solutions
> > Push with Cork, with groove cut in end to reposition component
> > Push with small Alligator clip.
> >
> > Praticasl solutions would be welcomed,
> >
> > Rod
> >
> > --
> > Rodney E. Macpherson,
> > Ebro 2869, Dto. 1302,
> > Las Condes,
> > Santiago. Chile
> > T:56 [2] 231-2992
> > Mobile [phone]
> > Correo: [hidden email]
> > VE7BCC/CE3
> >
> > _______________________________________________
> > Elecraft mailing list
> > Post to: [hidden email]
> > You must be a subscriber to post to the list.
> > Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.):
> >  http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft   
> >
> > Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm
> > Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
>
> _______________________________________________
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>

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