Resistor and capacitor installation techniques: trim before or after soldering?

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Resistor and capacitor installation techniques: trim before or after soldering?

Elecraft mailing list
Tony,

Thanks for the very detailed explanation.  I know we are stressing the
moderators with these somewhat OT postings, but I have learned something
today.

Your note about lead in solder is very apropos.  I know that NASA is not
wanting to have solder "whiskers" in any of their critical space equipment:

https://nepp.nasa.gov/Whisker/background/index.htm 

I usually hunt down tin/lead solder at Hamfests.  When I'm asked why I'm
risking lead exposure when soldering, I quote a line from one of our former
Presidents:  "I don't inhale"!

Thanks for the great discussion!

'73 de JIM N2ZZ

-----Original Message-----
From: N2TK, Tony [mailto:[hidden email]]
Sent: Sunday, March 25, 2018 12:58 PM
To: 'Doug Renwick'; 'James F. Boehner MD'; 'JEROME SODUS';
[hidden email]
Subject: RE: [Elecraft] Resistor and capacitor installation techniques: trim
before or after soldering?

Hi Jim,
Doug is correct about military and space work. All parts are precut or have
spacers installed prior to board mounting. Between flux, solder/flux and
mechanical means the parts are held in place until the reflow oven. For some
programs, boards are not allowed to be reworked. Some programs allow rework.
There is a very detailed procedure for reworking a board - MIL-PRF-38535 and
MIL-STD-883.

But, our applications and most commercial applications do not see the
stress, temperature range or vibration that some of these mil and space
boards see. So, for most of us bending the leads to hold the part, solder
and cut is fine. You can re-solder after cutting to be sure.  

Years ago at a NASA meeting, they were told you do not need a tool meeting
MIL-STD and MIL-PRF to make a board that meets those specs. So, have the
right solder and right temp on the soldering tool and the right tip and make
a nice flowing shiny solder connection.
By the way, military space solder is not RoHS compliant. There will be lead
in the solder.

73,
N2TK, Tony

-----Original Message-----
From: [hidden email]
[mailto:[hidden email]] On Behalf Of Doug Renwick
Sent: Sunday, March 25, 2018 12:05 PM
To: 'James F. Boehner MD' <[hidden email]>; 'JEROME SODUS'
<[hidden email]>; [hidden email]
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Resistor and capacitor installation techniques: trim
before or after soldering?

Heathkit recommended the "bad practice" saying "solder the leads to the foil
and cut off the excess lead lengths". Reprimanding a technician for doing
this is insane.
Doug

"Political correctness is a weapon used to silence people who tell the
truth" - Ayaan Hirsi Ali

-----Original Message-----
From: [hidden email]
[mailto:[hidden email]] On Behalf Of James F. Boehner MD
via Elecraft
Sent: March-25-18 9:33 AM
To: 'JEROME SODUS'; [hidden email]
Subject: [Elecraft] Resistor and capacitor installation techniques:
trimbefore or after soldering?

Jerome,

Now this is interesting.  This is totally opposite of the way most of us
were taught to solder.  Among the kits I used to put together were Heathkit
and Ramsey, both of whom recommended securing the parts in place by
spreading the leads, soldering, and then cutting the wires close to the
solder blob, checking for shorts.  I assume that goes for Elecraft also, but
I have not built any of their radios as kits, so not sure.

So how did NASA handle the potential difficulties?  Did they have precut
parts?  Did the tech have to place the part in the board and cut the leads
first?  If the part was loose, how was it held close to the board, owing to
the fact that holding the solder and the iron took two hands?  What if the
lead length was overestimated and potentially could cause a short?  Could
the wire be cut and the joint reheated, or did the part have to be removed,
recut and reinserted?

Just trying to picture the operation.

'73 de JIM N2ZZ

-----Original Message-----
From: [hidden email]
[mailto:[hidden email]] On Behalf Of JEROME SODUS
Sent: Saturday, March 24, 2018 11:40 PM
To: [hidden email]
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Resistor and capacitor installation techniques: trim
before or after soldering?

About Message#15 copied below....

Sorry but cutting wires after soldering is "bad practice"; NASA wanted the
soldered connection left undisturbed.

If I ever saw an assembler or tech doing that "bad practice", they'd get a
verbal warning that first time and a written warning if it ever happened
again; but I had good, conscientious people and never had to do that.

So, tin the wires if needed; position the part and then trim wires before
doing the final soldering.

73 Jerry KM3K



Message: 15
Date: Sat, 24 Mar 2018 19:39:47 +0000
From: Bill Johnson <[hidden email]>
To: "[hidden email]" <[hidden email]>, 'Mark Petrovic'
<[hidden email]>, "[hidden email]"
<[hidden email]>
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Resistor and capacitor installation
techniques: trim before or after soldering?
Message-ID:
<[hidden email]
OM>

Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"

Follow the instructions and solder as directed. There are components on both
sides as I recall with the majority on the top. The leads need be spread to
hold the components in place on the board. Once done soldering use a flush
cut wirecutter to remove the excess. Not a good idea to trim them before
soldering.

72 & 73,
Bill
K9YEQ
FT'er for K2, KX1, KX3, KXPA100, KAT500, W2, etc.
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Re: Resistor and capacitor installation techniques: trim before or after soldering?

N2TK
Jim,
There is actually a way to have your cake and eat it too. Supply the surface
mount parts or parts with leads with gold solder pads or leads. Most space
parts come this way anyways. These meet RoHS. Prior to mounting on the
boards use hot solder pot with SnPb solder to displace the gold (usually a
two pot process). But this causes its own set of problems.
Many space parts suppliers now offer a hot solder dip service with SnPb
(Tin/Lead) solder.    
Usually the only place RoHS is mentioned is with Europe. But the space
community gets a dispensation in regards to using lead solder (SnPb). No one
wants to take a chance with whiskers in space. And it is amazing how fast
they can grow without an atmosphere. SnPb also now applies to most things
that fly real high, not just satellites.

It is common practice to use a clear conformal coating over the board. That
slows down the whisker process somewhat, especially if you play with
topology. Try repairing that board.

Most satellites are designed for a 15 year lifetime. So whiskers are a big
issue. There are exceptions to that with some of the latest commercial
constellations.
Microsats (10cm cube (1U) to several "U's") have a very short lifetime
(hours to a couple months) usually don't worry about whiskers or radiation
issues, so far.

It is amazing how long a pound of good SnPb solder will last. It is a good
investment.

Sorry for all the bandwidth and straying.
N2TK, Tony


-----Original Message-----
From: James F. Boehner MD [mailto:[hidden email]]
Sent: Sunday, March 25, 2018 2:10 PM
To: 'N2TK, Tony' <[hidden email]>; 'Doug Renwick' <[hidden email]>;
'JEROME SODUS' <[hidden email]>; [hidden email]
Subject: Resistor and capacitor installation techniques: trim before or
after soldering?

Tony,

Thanks for the very detailed explanation.  I know we are stressing the
moderators with these somewhat OT postings, but I have learned something
today.

Your note about lead in solder is very apropos.  I know that NASA is not
wanting to have solder "whiskers" in any of their critical space equipment:

https://nepp.nasa.gov/Whisker/background/index.htm 

I usually hunt down tin/lead solder at Hamfests.  When I'm asked why I'm
risking lead exposure when soldering, I quote a line from one of our former
Presidents:  "I don't inhale"!

Thanks for the great discussion!

'73 de JIM N2ZZ

-----Original Message-----
From: N2TK, Tony [mailto:[hidden email]]
Sent: Sunday, March 25, 2018 12:58 PM
To: 'Doug Renwick'; 'James F. Boehner MD'; 'JEROME SODUS';
[hidden email]
Subject: RE: [Elecraft] Resistor and capacitor installation techniques: trim
before or after soldering?

Hi Jim,
Doug is correct about military and space work. All parts are precut or have
spacers installed prior to board mounting. Between flux, solder/flux and
mechanical means the parts are held in place until the reflow oven. For some
programs, boards are not allowed to be reworked. Some programs allow rework.
There is a very detailed procedure for reworking a board - MIL-PRF-38535 and
MIL-STD-883.

But, our applications and most commercial applications do not see the
stress, temperature range or vibration that some of these mil and space
boards see. So, for most of us bending the leads to hold the part, solder
and cut is fine. You can re-solder after cutting to be sure.  

Years ago at a NASA meeting, they were told you do not need a tool meeting
MIL-STD and MIL-PRF to make a board that meets those specs. So, have the
right solder and right temp on the soldering tool and the right tip and make
a nice flowing shiny solder connection.
By the way, military space solder is not RoHS compliant. There will be lead
in the solder.

73,
N2TK, Tony

-----Original Message-----
From: [hidden email]
[mailto:[hidden email]] On Behalf Of Doug Renwick
Sent: Sunday, March 25, 2018 12:05 PM
To: 'James F. Boehner MD' <[hidden email]>; 'JEROME SODUS'
<[hidden email]>; [hidden email]
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Resistor and capacitor installation techniques: trim
before or after soldering?

Heathkit recommended the "bad practice" saying "solder the leads to the foil
and cut off the excess lead lengths". Reprimanding a technician for doing
this is insane.
Doug

"Political correctness is a weapon used to silence people who tell the
truth" - Ayaan Hirsi Ali

-----Original Message-----
From: [hidden email]
[mailto:[hidden email]] On Behalf Of James F. Boehner MD
via Elecraft
Sent: March-25-18 9:33 AM
To: 'JEROME SODUS'; [hidden email]
Subject: [Elecraft] Resistor and capacitor installation techniques:
trimbefore or after soldering?

Jerome,

Now this is interesting.  This is totally opposite of the way most of us
were taught to solder.  Among the kits I used to put together were Heathkit
and Ramsey, both of whom recommended securing the parts in place by
spreading the leads, soldering, and then cutting the wires close to the
solder blob, checking for shorts.  I assume that goes for Elecraft also, but
I have not built any of their radios as kits, so not sure.

So how did NASA handle the potential difficulties?  Did they have precut
parts?  Did the tech have to place the part in the board and cut the leads
first?  If the part was loose, how was it held close to the board, owing to
the fact that holding the solder and the iron took two hands?  What if the
lead length was overestimated and potentially could cause a short?  Could
the wire be cut and the joint reheated, or did the part have to be removed,
recut and reinserted?

Just trying to picture the operation.

'73 de JIM N2ZZ

-----Original Message-----
From: [hidden email]
[mailto:[hidden email]] On Behalf Of JEROME SODUS
Sent: Saturday, March 24, 2018 11:40 PM
To: [hidden email]
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Resistor and capacitor installation techniques: trim
before or after soldering?

About Message#15 copied below....

Sorry but cutting wires after soldering is "bad practice"; NASA wanted the
soldered connection left undisturbed.

If I ever saw an assembler or tech doing that "bad practice", they'd get a
verbal warning that first time and a written warning if it ever happened
again; but I had good, conscientious people and never had to do that.

So, tin the wires if needed; position the part and then trim wires before
doing the final soldering.

73 Jerry KM3K



Message: 15
Date: Sat, 24 Mar 2018 19:39:47 +0000
From: Bill Johnson <[hidden email]>
To: "[hidden email]" <[hidden email]>, 'Mark Petrovic'
<[hidden email]>, "[hidden email]"
<[hidden email]>
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Resistor and capacitor installation
techniques: trim before or after soldering?
Message-ID:
<[hidden email]
OM>

Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"

Follow the instructions and solder as directed. There are components on both
sides as I recall with the majority on the top. The leads need be spread to
hold the components in place on the board. Once done soldering use a flush
cut wirecutter to remove the excess. Not a good idea to trim them before
soldering.

72 & 73,
Bill
K9YEQ
FT'er for K2, KX1, KX3, KXPA100, KAT500, W2, etc.
______________________________________________________________
Elecraft mailing list
Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft
Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm
Post: mailto:[hidden email]

This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net
Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html Message
delivered to [hidden email]

______________________________________________________________
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Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft
Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm
Post: mailto:[hidden email]

This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net
Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html Message
delivered to [hidden email]


---
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Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm
Post: mailto:[hidden email]

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Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html Message
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Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm
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