SKN rigs
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Fellow Elecrafters:
I'll be using my newly resurrected/rehabbed/revitalized HT37 along with my Drake 2B on SKN night. Believe I participated in SKN a year or two ago and quickly realized why I went to a bug in my Novice days (grin). I'll be using a U.S. Navy flameproof hand key...for a couple of QSO's before my wrist breaks down (grin)....hope the CW is intelligible. See you there. 73, Joe W2KJ I QRP, therefore, I am _______________________________________________ Elecraft mailing list Post to: [hidden email] You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com |
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On STRAIGHT KEY Night, I'll be using the Drake 2-B, 2-C and 2-NT, not
surprisingly with a Speed-X STRAIGHT KEY. The VFO for my 50 dollar Drake transmitter is an Elecraft K2 into a DL-1 for about 2 vrms into the FT-243 crystal socket. My apologies to boatanchor enthusiasts everywhere. I'm still looking for a real VFO. Pictures at: http://www.ke6us.com/boatanchors.htm Included is a picture of a STRAIGHT KEY for those who seem confused about the concept of STRAIGHT KEY Night. Eric KE6US www.ke6us.com _______________________________________________ Elecraft mailing list Post to: [hidden email] You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com |
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Hi Eric:
Your web site is excellent. It brought a lot of memories. My first rig was the Drake R4-B and the 2-NT. Later when I passed the General, I replaced the 2-NT with the T4X-B. I still have them all, but the 2-NT is in a box in my storage room. I, too, never found a suitable VFO for it, but God if we only new about VXO's in that day !! HI I was a high school sophomore in 1971 with my Novice ticket - WN4YDL - living in Memphis. I now also have built the Elecraft line - K2/100, K1, and KX1. I just may have to try this 'VFO' out ! I certainly need to get the Tarn-X out and start cleaning up these great old rigs. I saw where an outfit called Misty Hollow is developing DDS gear for the transceivers of the day, but I don't know if they have anything going back to the separates. 73 and Merry Christmas, Jamie WB4YDL -----Original Message----- From: [hidden email] [mailto:[hidden email]] On Behalf Of EricJ Sent: Friday, December 23, 2005 12:17 PM To: 'Elecraft' Subject: RE: [Elecraft] SKN rigs On STRAIGHT KEY Night, I'll be using the Drake 2-B, 2-C and 2-NT, not surprisingly with a Speed-X STRAIGHT KEY. The VFO for my 50 dollar Drake transmitter is an Elecraft K2 into a DL-1 for about 2 vrms into the FT-243 crystal socket. My apologies to boatanchor enthusiasts everywhere. I'm still looking for a real VFO. Pictures at: http://www.ke6us.com/boatanchors.htm Included is a picture of a STRAIGHT KEY for those who seem confused about the concept of STRAIGHT KEY Night. Eric KE6US www.ke6us.com _______________________________________________ Elecraft mailing list Post to: [hidden email] You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com _______________________________________________ Elecraft mailing list Post to: [hidden email] You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com |
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In reply to this post by Joseph Trombino, Jr
On Dec 23, 2005, at 12:48 PM, Joseph Trombino Jr wrote: > > I'll be using a U.S. Navy flameproof hand key...for a couple of > QSO's before my wrist breaks down (grin)....hope the CW is > intelligible. Now, if you have that key adjusted correctly, and are using it correctly, you should be able to send CW all day on a straight key without any problems or pain. About 30 years ago, 73 magazine had an excellent article about "glass arm" -- how telegraph operators would get it and it would put them out of a job. It also spoke of how to avoid it -- to use a rather wide spacing, loose trunnions, pivot on your elbow and have your whole arm move when you key. If you key just with the muscles of your wrist, you'll tire out in no time. Bill Coleman, AA4LR, PP-ASEL Mail: [hidden email] Quote: "Not within a thousand years will man ever fly!" -- Wilbur Wright, 1901 _______________________________________________ Elecraft mailing list Post to: [hidden email] You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com |
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In reply to this post by Joseph Trombino, Jr
In a message dated 12/23/05 1:20:02 PM Eastern Standard Time,
[hidden email] writes: > I'm still looking for a > real VFO. > Build one! 73 de Jim, N2EY _______________________________________________ Elecraft mailing list Post to: [hidden email] You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com |
proper use of straight keys
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In reply to this post by Bill Coleman-2
On Fri, 23 Dec 2005, Bill Coleman wrote: > About 30 years ago, 73 magazine had an excellent article about "glass arm" -- > how telegraph operators would get it and it would put them out of a job. It > also spoke of how to avoid it -- to use a rather wide spacing, loose > trunnions, pivot on your elbow and have your whole arm move when you key. If > you key just with the muscles of your wrist, you'll tire out in no time. I've never understood either of these approaches. I set the spacing just wide enough to get good acoustic and kinesthetic feedback on contact, and set the weight just enough to provide clean keying at about 18wpm. Then I rest my middle and index fingers on the key and do everything through the finger muscles (which may be seen operating under the skin). My arm and wrist are static and rest flat on the table, and the only confession I have to make is that I have a bad habit of putting tension in the shoulder. I'm a software engineer by trade and liken this to the way I type -- wrists in contact with desk or laptop. No trouble after nearly 20 years of typing for 8 hours a day, but I'm also a light touch, and VERY picky when it comes to keyboards. The above, however, may also solve a mystery for me. I've cut down or replaced the springs on every single key I've ever owned (a dozen plus) b/c I found the stock tention too high. I've never understood why the stock tension on all of these keys was so high and figured that either every serious operator was doing something similar, or that I was in the minority on strength, dexterity, or preference. It may, however, simply be a matter of technique, and just as I can't understand why anyone would wantonly type with their wrists in the air, I can't understand why anyone would want to use their wrist or arm muscles to operate a key. I can, however, appreciate the fact that if you are keying with your whole arm, you're going to need the kind of tension most keys ship with. _______________________________________________ Elecraft mailing list Post to: [hidden email] You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com |
RE: proper use of straight keys
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I've wondered about the same things that Jessie has. I was taught to send
using my whole forearm. That is, with my elbow is resting on the table and all of the muscles in my arm are involved in operating the straight key. Looking back, I see this advice in the 1920's at least. Probably earlier. Ever look at the keys from that period? They were for breaking the very dangerous high-voltage circuits in spark transmitters. Wide gaps to avoid arcing, long handles for safety, meaning lots of movement at the end. In the Army, it was impossible to send in a moving vehicle without a lot of spring tension. Even in a parked AN/GRC-26 communications van, people moving about would cause it to bounce and rock enough to disturb sending unless the key was "tight". Indeed, I got used to lifting up on the key when opening the contacts and still do that when sending. Aircraft telegraph keys had tight springs for the same reason. Perhaps those are reasons for strong keys and the technique. I won't pretend I can send all day, but I can certainly sit at the key for an hour without any fatigue at all, pumping away at 10 to 15 wpm. Did that a lot with Army CW nets (back when there WERE Army CW nets <G>). And that action puts zero strain on wrist and fingers. No carpel tunnel syndrome for me. Above about 15 wpm on a straight key I'm working hard, no matter what. I switch to my bug at anything over about 15 wpm. I did take my commercial radio operator's test using a straight key at 20 wpm. Thought I was going to rip that key off of the table <G>. Passed on first go, though... I've never had a "light touch". The keys on my computer are usually heavily worn. There's a visible indent on my space bar (where the edge of my thumbnail hits it). I like movement in my keys, computer or telegraph. Maybe that's the difference that makes the tighter springs feel "right" to me. And also why I can't feel any desirable difference between my old WWII J-38 and the most expensive key out there... Ron AC7AC _______________________________________________ Elecraft mailing list Post to: [hidden email] You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com |
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In reply to this post by Bill Coleman-2
Yep, I agree, Bill. I would say use your whole forearm, but no real muscle
effort should be required, of course. Keep your elbow and your wrist LOOSE. Even rubbery. Your forearm basically just gently bounces enough to flex your wrist. Your fingers do nothing but perch on the knob. If you don't tense any muscles, the keying is very fluid and it is easy to get into a rhythm which, it appears, you already know. I really miss all the interesting fists you could hear on the ham bands in the years before electronic keyers. I remember an episode of MASH where a concert pianist lost his right arm. Winchester tried to get him interested in playing, by getting him some music written for the left-hand, but the young soldier was adamant that any career in music was over. I remember Winchester telling him, "I can play the notes...but I can't play the MUSIC." That's how I remember the old fists. They were individual and as recognizable as a musical style. The electronic keyers allow one to play the notes, but it isn't really music any longer. Eric KE6US www.ke6us.com -----Original Message----- From: [hidden email] [mailto:[hidden email]] On Behalf Of Bill Coleman Sent: Friday, December 23, 2005 12:20 PM To: Joseph Trombino Jr Cc: Elecraft Subject: Re: [Elecraft] SKN rigs On Dec 23, 2005, at 12:48 PM, Joseph Trombino Jr wrote: > > I'll be using a U.S. Navy flameproof hand key...for a couple of QSO's > before my wrist breaks down (grin)....hope the CW is intelligible. Now, if you have that key adjusted correctly, and are using it correctly, you should be able to send CW all day on a straight key without any problems or pain. About 30 years ago, 73 magazine had an excellent article about "glass arm" -- how telegraph operators would get it and it would put them out of a job. It also spoke of how to avoid it -- to use a rather wide spacing, loose trunnions, pivot on your elbow and have your whole arm move when you key. If you key just with the muscles of your wrist, you'll tire out in no time. Bill Coleman, AA4LR, PP-ASEL Mail: [hidden email] Quote: "Not within a thousand years will man ever fly!" -- Wilbur Wright, 1901 _______________________________________________ Elecraft mailing list Post to: [hidden email] You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com _______________________________________________ Elecraft mailing list Post to: [hidden email] You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com |
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In reply to this post by Jessie Oberreuter
The weight of your forearm actuates the key. You are not bearing down with
arm muscles with this technique. I keep my spacing fairly close with light tension and free bearings. It's not as smooth now at 63 as it was when my joints were very limber at 15. But it still takes very little effort. I'm no expert on this, but I believe this technique is called the American style. The knob tends to be higher on keys for this style. I believe there is another style called the British style or maybe the European style which I'm pretty sure is closer to what you describe doing and the key knob is much lower to allow you to rest your forearm. Maybe Ron AC7AC remembers something about this. Eric KE6US www.ke6us.com -----Original Message----- From: [hidden email] [mailto:[hidden email]] On Behalf Of Jessie Oberreuter Sent: Friday, December 23, 2005 3:41 PM To: Bill Coleman Cc: Elecraft Subject: [Elecraft] proper use of straight keys On Fri, 23 Dec 2005, Bill Coleman wrote: > About 30 years ago, 73 magazine had an excellent article about "glass > arm" -- how telegraph operators would get it and it would put them out > of a job. It also spoke of how to avoid it -- to use a rather wide > spacing, loose trunnions, pivot on your elbow and have your whole arm > move when you key. If you key just with the muscles of your wrist, you'll tire out in no time. I've never understood either of these approaches. I set the spacing just wide enough to get good acoustic and kinesthetic feedback on contact, and set the weight just enough to provide clean keying at about 18wpm. Then I rest my middle and index fingers on the key and do everything through the finger muscles (which may be seen operating under the skin). My arm and wrist are static and rest flat on the table, and the only confession I have to make is that I have a bad habit of putting tension in the shoulder. I'm a software engineer by trade and liken this to the way I type -- wrists in contact with desk or laptop. No trouble after nearly 20 years of typing for 8 hours a day, but I'm also a light touch, and VERY picky when it comes to keyboards. The above, however, may also solve a mystery for me. I've cut down or replaced the springs on every single key I've ever owned (a dozen plus) b/c I found the stock tention too high. I've never understood why the stock tension on all of these keys was so high and figured that either every serious operator was doing something similar, or that I was in the minority on strength, dexterity, or preference. It may, however, simply be a matter of technique, and just as I can't understand why anyone would wantonly type with their wrists in the air, I can't understand why anyone would want to use their wrist or arm muscles to operate a key. I can, however, appreciate the fact that if you are keying with your whole arm, you're going to need the kind of tension most keys ship with. _______________________________________________ Elecraft mailing list Post to: [hidden email] You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com _______________________________________________ Elecraft mailing list Post to: [hidden email] You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com |
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In reply to this post by N2EY
I spent my first 20 years as a ham building tube gear. All that sawing and
filing and drilling no longer holds my interest. I'm toying with building one based on a DDS card and controller. In fact, I mocked up a Drake-style front panel for it which I posted on my website, but there is just something...unnatural...about the idea. hi. Eric KE6US www.ke6us.com _____ From: [hidden email] [mailto:[hidden email]] Sent: Friday, December 23, 2005 3:31 PM To: [hidden email]; [hidden email] Subject: Re: [Elecraft] SKN rigs In a message dated 12/23/05 1:20:02 PM Eastern Standard Time, [hidden email] writes: I'm still looking for a real VFO. Build one! 73 de Jim, N2EY _______________________________________________ Elecraft mailing list Post to: [hidden email] You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com |
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In reply to this post by Joseph Trombino, Jr
In a message dated 12/23/05 10:23:38 PM Eastern Standard Time,
[hidden email] writes: > I spent my first 20 years as a ham building tube gear. All that sawing and > filing and drilling no longer holds my interest. > > I'm toying with building one based on a DDS card and controller. In fact, I > mocked up a Drake-style front panel for it which I posted on my website, but > there is just something...unnatural...about the idea. hi. > You don't need to do all that metalwork if you have a little imagination. Just get a Command set transmitter and use it for the VFO chassis and mechanicals. One that has been heavily modified and is beyond restoration is best, and cheapest. All you want is the chassis, variable caps and coil, and maybe a tube socket or two. Solid state, tube or hybrid, the hard work is all done for you. 73 de Jim, N2EY _______________________________________________ Elecraft mailing list Post to: [hidden email] You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com |
RE: proper use of straight keys
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In reply to this post by EricJ-2
I never knew names attached to the various techniques, but your description
of the weight of the arm doing the work is what I learned too. That's why, in very difficult situations such as a bounding vehicle, I didn't want the spring so tight that I'd have to bear down hard. So when I had to I compromised by slipping my thumb under the knob and "lifting" up with it to make sure the contacts broke cleanly at the right time in spite of the jostling or for brief bursts of extra-high-speed CW. I wonder if those various techniques came from the military training in the different countries? I already had a commercial radiotelegraph license so the U.S. Army didn't send me to their school. Ron AC7AC _______________________________________________ Elecraft mailing list Post to: [hidden email] You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com |
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In reply to this post by Joseph Trombino, Jr
In a message dated 12/24/05 12:08:09 AM Eastern Standard Time,
[hidden email] writes: > I actually had a generous offer of a command set by a list member for just > that purpose. Well, there you are! "Restorable" ARC-5s are expensive but junkers aren't. > > I'm holding out for an HG-10B or HA-5 for cosmetic reasons, though the > HG-10B is sort of a beast. Good heavens! When I was a novice with a station like this, I would use anything that would work. > Now I'm more superficial and also want the whole thing to "look good". > You can make a Command set look really good by the following method (it does take a bit of metalwork, though): First you need an extension for the tuning knob. The shaft of the variable cap is an odd size (3/16"?) and so it helps to have access to a lathe to make a custom adapter. But it can be done a number of ways. Next you make a front panel and mount the Command set chassis behind it with spacers - about 3/4 inch. New dial is a disk of metal. plastic or even cardboard. A window with a bit of Plexiglas lets you see the dial, and a few dial lamps to light it up are a nice touch. A Spot switch and other controls can be put on the panel as well. 73 de Jim, N2EY _______________________________________________ Elecraft mailing list Post to: [hidden email] You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com |
Re: proper use of straight keys
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In reply to this post by Ron D'Eau Claire-2
On Saturday 24 December 2005 01:45, Ron D'Eau Claire wrote:
> I've wondered about the same things that Jessie has. I was taught to send > using my whole forearm. That is, with my elbow is resting on the table and > all of the muscles in my arm are involved in operating the straight key. I hold the key with two fingers on top and the thumb underneath and have no contact anywhere else. Someone in a club station commented on my sending with a straight key for hours with no support and not tiring. This was just a week after I received my first licence, G4ICV in 1979. I had played the piano for hours a day, sometimes eight at weekends, during the previous twelve years - excellent and incidental training for using a Morse Key. I had to laugh earlier. Someone (I won't give the callsign, but it was a 2x1) was calling CQ FISB on 20m. Ian, G4ICV, AB2GR, K2 #4962 -- _______________________________________________ Elecraft mailing list Post to: [hidden email] You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com |
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