Simple K2 Question
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Reading about K2 Power Cords...is there anyone out there making them that look "commercially" made. I have made two sets of power cords (K2 and the KAT100) and after I am done they look like "crap." They look bad. I guess it is the way I am trying to put in fuses in the line and don't have a good way of doing that. Anyone out there making them for the K2 Community? Lee - K0WA "Power Cord Impaired" In our day and age it seems that Common Sense is in short supply. If you don't have any Common Sense - get some Common Sense and use it. If you can't find any Common Sense, ask for help from somebody who has some Common Sense. Is Common Sense divine? _______________________________________________ Elecraft mailing list Post to: [hidden email] You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com |
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Lee,
What I have done in the past sometimes is to purchase a 'factory' cable of your choice and then put the ends you want on it. This way, you get more or less what you want. I do this all the time with keyer paddles. Ppurchase a cheap 3 conductor stereo cable, hack it in half and now you have two 'factory' looking ends. Solder on a few lugs and it looks and like it was 'meant to be'. I've done it with power cables as well. Once in a while I'll come across and a power cable I don't need in one application that would work very nicely in another. I put the ends I need on it and the fuses I need in it and now you have a nice cable setup. 73, James KB2FCV ________________________________________________________________________ AOL now offers free email to everyone. Find out more about what's free from AOL at AOL.com. _______________________________________________ Elecraft mailing list Post to: [hidden email] You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com |
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Isn't this what old wall-warts are for ... the cords?
Is there anyone out there who has -NOT- had satisfactory results with Anderson Powerpoles? 73! Ken Kopp - K0PP [hidden email] _______________________________________________ Elecraft mailing list Post to: [hidden email] You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com |
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Ken:
I have found with power poles that it is important to use the right crimper. I have never ever been able to get a good connection with the "plier" style crimper that West Mountain Radio sells. Also, I have found the West Mountain ratchet style crimper to be good only for smaller wire sizes. For the higher current connectors into No 12 or 10 wire, I find that only the genuine (and not inexpensive) Anderson crimper produces good connections. That said, if you use the right crimper, power poles are a breeze. 73, Steve AA4AK At 02:59 PM 7/17/2007, Ken Kopp wrote: >Isn't this what old wall-warts are for ... the cords? > >Is there anyone out there who has -NOT- had satisfactory >results with Anderson Powerpoles? > >73! Ken Kopp - K0PP >[hidden email] > >_______________________________________________ >Elecraft mailing list >Post to: [hidden email] >You must be a subscriber to post to the list. >Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): >http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft > >Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm >Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com _______________________________________________ Elecraft mailing list Post to: [hidden email] You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com |
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In reply to this post by k0wa@swbell.net
On 7/17/07, Lee Buller <[hidden email]> wrote:
> > Reading about K2 Power Cords...is there anyone out there making them that > look "commercially" made. I have made two sets of power cords (K2 and the > KAT100) and after I am done they look like "crap." They look bad. I guess it > is the way I am trying to put in fuses in the line and don't have a good way of > doing that. I have a Powerpole connector based power bar that has the fuses in the power bar, so I don't have to worry about that inline fuse connector myself. What I would suggest is using black (or red/black) lamp ('zip') cord, and covering the inline fuse connector's wire leads with heat shrink tubing. Also using a short amount of heat shrink tubing as strain relief at the end connectors, rather than electrical tape. Of course neatness is easier said then done. -Michael, VE3TIX _______________________________________________ Elecraft mailing list Post to: [hidden email] You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com |
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michael taylor wrote:
> I have a Powerpole connector based power bar that has the fuses in the > power bar, so I don't have to worry about that inline fuse connector > myself. I disagree with that statement. The inline fuse is to protect the lead as much as anything. I use the same sort of setup as you Michael but I would not dream of fitting leads without inline fuses. Ian -- Ian J Maude G0VGS SysOp GB7MBC DX Cluster Member of RSGB, ARRL, GQRP K2 #4044 | K3 #? _______________________________________________ Elecraft mailing list Post to: [hidden email] You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com |
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In reply to this post by Stephen W. Kercel
At 14:30 07/17/2007, Stephen W. Kercel wrote: >I have found with power poles that it is important to use the right >crimper. I have never ever been able to get a good connection with >the "plier" style crimper that West Mountain Radio sells. Also, I >have found the West Mountain ratchet style crimper to be good only >for smaller wire sizes. For the higher current connectors into No 12 >or 10 wire, I find that only the genuine (and not inexpensive) >Anderson crimper produces good connections. > >That said, if you use the right crimper, power poles are a breeze. So far, I've had quite good results using the West Mountain ratchet-type crimper on wire gauges up thru #10. In fact, I used it within the past couple days on a cable for a local, using #10. Success at larger gauges may depend somewhat upon the gauge of the stranding. The stuff I used was quite flexible and utilized MANY strands of probably #26 or finer gauge wire. A local who also has the West Mountain ratchet-type crimper has one of the dies in the crimp head fracture when he was trying to crimp (I think) some #10 wire which was made from much larger gauge wires. I've had no problems with smaller gauges of wire either. I've had LITTLE(!!!) success using the 'plier' style of crimpers at ANY gauge! 73, Tom Hammond N0SS _______________________________________________ Elecraft mailing list Post to: [hidden email] You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com |
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In reply to this post by Stephen W. Kercel
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In reply to this post by Tom Hammond-2
Tom:
Interesting insight about No 10 wire made up of very fine strands. The failure more that your local friend has run into with No 10 is exactly the failure mode that I've run into as well. Caution to all list members, as Tom also points out: DO NOT WASTE YOUR MONEY ON THE WEST MOUNTAIN PLIER CRIMPER. 73, Steve AA4AK >Success at larger gauges may depend somewhat upon the gauge of the >stranding. The >stuff I used was quite flexible and utilized MANY strands of >probably #26 or finer >gauge wire. > >A local who also has the West Mountain ratchet-type crimper has one >of the dies >in the crimp head fracture when he was trying to crimp (I think) some #10 wire >which was made from much larger gauge wires. > >I've had no problems with smaller gauges of wire either. > >I've had LITTLE(!!!) success using the 'plier' style of crimpers at ANY gauge! > >73, > >Tom Hammond N0SS > _______________________________________________ Elecraft mailing list Post to: [hidden email] You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com |
Re: Attaching Anderson PowerPole connetors (WAS: K2 power cables source)
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In reply to this post by AC7AC
I maintain my own fleet of radios as well as those of the fire
department in which I am the Safety and Comm Officer. The wildland fire fighting vehicles probably subject the equipment and connections to the worst case scenario for vibration. I've learned to use a small butane torch to solder the PowerPole connectors. This has put an end to power connector problems and is really easy to do once you get the hang of how much heat to apply. Doug -- K0DXV Ron D'Eau Claire wrote: > And that's why we recommend *soldering* the wires into the PowerPole > connectors in the Elecraft manuals. Soldering works FB, it is what most > builders are well equipped to do, and doesn't require the expense of the > crimper. > > In my experience, crimp connections can be very, very good if the right > crimper is used and if it is used correctly. Otherwise, crimp connections > are about on a level with twisting two bare wires together. > > Ron AC7AC > > -----Original Message----- > Ken: > > I have found with power poles that it is important to use the right > crimper. I have never ever been able to get a good connection with > the "plier" style crimper that West Mountain Radio sells. Also, I > have found the West Mountain ratchet style crimper to be good only > for smaller wire sizes. For the higher current connectors into No 12 > or 10 wire, I find that only the genuine (and not inexpensive) > Anderson crimper produces good connections. > > That said, if you use the right crimper, power poles are a breeze. > > 73, > > Steve > AA4AK > > _______________________________________________ > Elecraft mailing list > Post to: [hidden email] > You must be a subscriber to post to the list. > Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): > http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft > > Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm > Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com > > > _______________________________________________ Elecraft mailing list Post to: [hidden email] You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com |
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In reply to this post by Stephen W. Kercel
On Tue, 17 Jul 2007, Stephen W. Kercel wrote:
> Caution to all list members, as Tom also points out: DO NOT WASTE YOUR MONEY > ON THE WEST MOUNTAIN PLIER CRIMPER. Steve, Just curious, are you talking about the PWRcrimp tool? http://www.westmountainradio.com/PWRcrimp.htm I've had nothing but great results with it so long as I have always used the proper die-set for the job at hand. -- 73 de Jeff _______________________________________________ Elecraft mailing list Post to: [hidden email] You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com |
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Jeff:
No. The one that both Tom and I are complaining about is a device that looks like a pair of pliers with crooked jaws. I notice that it is sold by PowerWerx and not West Mountain. As we've been discussing, the West Mountain PWRcrimp is ok for anything smaller than No 10, but you might want to practice making a few throw-away connections before you try doing it for keeps. If you're trying to crimp number 10 wire, unless you are very experienced (and lucky) with the PWRcrimp, you need the genuine Anderson crimper to get number 10 done right. 73, Steve Kercel AA4AK At 04:44 PM 7/17/2007, Jeff Davis wrote: >On Tue, 17 Jul 2007, Stephen W. Kercel wrote: > >>Caution to all list members, as Tom also points out: DO NOT WASTE >>YOUR MONEY ON THE WEST MOUNTAIN PLIER CRIMPER. > >Steve, > >Just curious, are you talking about the PWRcrimp tool? > >http://www.westmountainradio.com/PWRcrimp.htm > >I've had nothing but great results with it so long as I have always >used the proper die-set for the job at hand. > >-- >73 de Jeff _______________________________________________ Elecraft mailing list Post to: [hidden email] You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com |
Re: Attaching Anderson PowerPole connetors (WAS: K2 power cables source)
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In reply to this post by Doug Person
On Tue, 17 Jul 2007 14:42:32 -0600, Doug Person wrote:
>I've learned to use a small butane torch to solder the PowerPole >connectors. This has put an end to power connector problems and >is really easy to do once you get the hang of how much heat to >apply. I have limited eyesight in that my close-up eyesight is monocular, not binocular - no close-up depth perception - so a soldering iron or torch is a deadly weapon in my hands. That's why I had my K2 built by a local builder. I do crimps very well, partially by feel. That takes skill but I do it. "Different strokes for different folks." -- 73 de K2ASP - Phil Kane Elecraft K2/100 s/n 5402 From a Clearing in the Silicon Forest Beaverton (Washington County) Oregon _______________________________________________ Elecraft mailing list Post to: [hidden email] You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com |
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In reply to this post by Stephen W. Kercel
On 7/17/07, Stephen W. Kercel <[hidden email]> wrote:
> No. The one that both Tom and I are complaining about is a device > that looks like a pair of pliers with crooked jaws. I notice that it > is sold by PowerWerx and not West Mountain. <http://www.powerwerx.com/product.asp?ProdID=28193&CtgID=1682> _______________________________________________ Elecraft mailing list Post to: [hidden email] You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com |
RE: K2 power cables source
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In reply to this post by Stephen W. Kercel
At work, we replaced all the welding cable (lots of fine strands) with very stiff wire made up of fewer thicker wires. I was told the welding cable would not give a reliable crimp.... 48 volt hundreds of amp stuff... You need the correct size die that crimps on all sides, along with enough force to crush the wire. I just soldered my connectors, I never liked crimps, especially unprofessional ones.... Brett N2DTS > -----Original Message----- > From: [hidden email] > [mailto:[hidden email]] On Behalf Of > Stephen W. Kercel > Sent: Tuesday, July 17, 2007 4:40 PM > To: Tom Hammond; Ken Kopp; [hidden email]; > [hidden email]; [hidden email] > Subject: Re: [Elecraft] K2 power cables source > > Tom: > > Interesting insight about No 10 wire made up of very fine strands. > The failure more that your local friend has run into with No 10 is > exactly the failure mode that I've run into as well. > > Caution to all list members, as Tom also points out: DO NOT WASTE > YOUR MONEY ON THE WEST MOUNTAIN PLIER CRIMPER. > > 73, > > St _______________________________________________ Elecraft mailing list Post to: [hidden email] You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com |
RE: K2 power cables source
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I have always been told by the ex Air Force people that crimps were the
only method for any high vibration cabling. Something along the line of changing the temper and also creating a stiff spot in the wire that could not allow the wire to flex and this would be where the wire would break. Of course, sitting on the bench this would not apply, but may apply in mobile use or some portable applications? Anyway, if you were in an airplane, you may want to check for proper methods. My two cents for what it's worth. Werner N8BB _______________________________________________ Elecraft mailing list Post to: [hidden email] You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com |
RE: K2 power cables source... vibrating
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At 08:38 PM 7/17/2007, Werner & Denise Haschke wrote:
> I have always been told by the ex Air Force people that crimps were the >only method for any high vibration cabling. The day before the BS8 ( scarborough expedition) went on the air... my rotor stopped turning... The motor inside the M2 2800 had become loose from its mounting, and had shaken the solder connection enough to snap it. I agree that #10 is a challenge with the West Mountain rachet tool; however overall I like crimp. But without the 50$ tool I agree solder will probably is the best overall way to go. That plier (GB) crimper , even after a ton of crimps ( practice) does not reliably yield good crimps. bill _______________________________________________ Elecraft mailing list Post to: [hidden email] You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com |
Re: Simple K2 Question
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In reply to this post by k0wa@swbell.net
I just dropped a line to PowerWerx to ask if they'd add a K2-suitable
cord to their line of pre-made cables. http://www.powerwerx.com/category.asp?CtgID=1389 73 de chris K6DBG _______________________________________________ Elecraft mailing list Post to: [hidden email] You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com |
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In reply to this post by Ken Kopp
The tool you are referring to was a design originally made by T&B (Thomas
and Betts) and for many years it has been an industrial standard. It works bets with T&B crimp terminals and it provides crimping by embossing a deep impression on the back side of the terminal port. It is important to know which side of the terminal to emboss. On terminals made by T&B they use a zig-zag pattern to form the joint along the barrel. That seam is along the top side of the terminal, and you don't want to breach it by crimping on that side. So the dimple on the tool is placed along the back side which is smooth. There are definite advantages to this method. I still have my T&B crimper that was given to me by a company that made traffic signals and controls. I still use it frequently being that T&B used hardened steel that hasn't dulled or lost its shape after 40 years. The best thing was that I never had one of those crimps pull loose. The cheap kinds that cross crimp the wires can all be pulled loose before the wire breaks, and this is because they actually weaken the wire where they squeeze it cross-wise along a narrow gap. Using a tool that crimps longitudinally will give a superior crimp because it applies pressure to the wire over a large area and distributes that force along the entire inner surface of the barrel. T&Bs zig-zag seam is welded to maintain the integrity of the terminal. The West Mountain tool works in reverse, applying a uniform (Hex) force from the outside inward. These are both superior methods to squeezing a couple "nicks" in a thin folded barrel. Al WA6VNN ************************************** Get a sneak peek of the all-new AOL at http://discover.aol.com/memed/aolcom30tour _______________________________________________ Elecraft mailing list Post to: [hidden email] You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com |
Re: Simple K2 Question
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In reply to this post by k0wa@swbell.net
I contacted Powerwerx about pre-made cables, and got this reply:
> Sorry, we do not have any plans to manufacture and cables with coaxial > connectors. There are so many different sizes the it would be impossible > to have "just" the right size for everyone. > > This is apparent in my vast wall wort collection. I have about 30 of > them all diffrernet. And some even with positive ground! Understandable, though with 6000 K2s in the field... I also asked Joel at The RF Connection (http://www.therfc.com); he's made a number of custom cables for me in the past. I asked about the 16g PP cables we've discussed for a K2, w/ or w/o fuse holders: > All your cables in your email are do able. We have the most of the parts . So ... your path is clear :-) 73 de chris K6DBG _______________________________________________ Elecraft mailing list Post to: [hidden email] You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com |
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