Standalone K2 Amp?

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Standalone K2 Amp?

Fred (FL)
I'm sure this topic has come up in various ways in
the past - but here goes again:

What are the easy ways of keeping one's K2 a base
QRP driver rig - and having a standalone amplifier
next to it on the table?  Nothing power drastic -
but maybe 50 or 100 watts, when needed?

Fred
N3CSY


       
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Re: Standalone K2 Amp?

SABorns
If you are looking for a small external amp for your K2 check out the  
HFProjects site. I'm using Virgil's little HF-Packer amp and am very satisfied  with
it.
73, Steve K8IDN



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Re: Standalone K2 Amp?

Don Wilhelm-3
In reply to this post by Fred (FL)
Fred,

There are many ways to accomplish that feat.  Most any linear amplifier
will have 10 to 15 dB gain and will provide 100 watts plus with 10 watts
input.  You can add Tom Hammond's amp keying kit to your QRP K2 to
activate the amplifier.

If you do not already have a linear amplifier -
The very easiest way is to build the KPA100 and put it into an EC2
enclosure.  The KIO2 (or a substitute) must be installed in the QRP K2
to provide the control signals to the KPA100.

If you need a tuner for your antennas, the KPA100 and the KAT100-2 mate
together in an EC2 enclosure and make a nice package - even the KAT100
is powered from the DC cable on the KPA100.

73,
Don W3FPR

Fred (FL) wrote:

> I'm sure this topic has come up in various ways in
> the past - but here goes again:
>
> What are the easy ways of keeping one's K2 a base
> QRP driver rig - and having a standalone amplifier
> next to it on the table?  Nothing power drastic -
> but maybe 50 or 100 watts, when needed?
>
> Fred
> N3CSY
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Re: Standalone K2 Amp?

Tom Zeltwanger
Don,

I now have all the pieces to do this (remote the KPA100 and KAT100-2). I have
seen many discussions on this subject, and I know there are directions out
there for doing this. Is there any one set of directions that is best in terms
of describing all the steps? I don't necessarily need photos, but I need
something that covers everything that needs to be done.

73,

Tom KG3V



Quoting Don Wilhelm <[hidden email]>:

> Fred,
>
> There are many ways to accomplish that feat.  Most any linear amplifier
> will have 10 to 15 dB gain and will provide 100 watts plus with 10 watts
> input.  You can add Tom Hammond's amp keying kit to your QRP K2 to
> activate the amplifier.
>
> If you do not already have a linear amplifier -
> The very easiest way is to build the KPA100 and put it into an EC2
> enclosure.  The KIO2 (or a substitute) must be installed in the QRP K2
> to provide the control signals to the KPA100.
>
> If you need a tuner for your antennas, the KPA100 and the KAT100-2 mate
> together in an EC2 enclosure and make a nice package - even the KAT100
> is powered from the DC cable on the KPA100.
>
> 73,
> Don W3FPR
>
> Fred (FL) wrote:
> > I'm sure this topic has come up in various ways in
> > the past - but here goes again:
> >
> > What are the easy ways of keeping one's K2 a base
> > QRP driver rig - and having a standalone amplifier
> > next to it on the table?  Nothing power drastic -
> > but maybe 50 or 100 watts, when needed?
> >
> > Fred
> > N3CSY
> _______________________________________________
> Elecraft mailing list
> Post to: [hidden email]
> You must be a subscriber to post to the list.
> Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.):
>  http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft   
>
> Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm
> Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
>





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Re: Standalone K2 Amp?

Jim AB3CV
In reply to this post by Fred (FL)
Fred

The KPA100 can be placed in a separate EC2 enclosure. Search this list for
details.

73

jim ab3cv

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Re: Standalone K2 Amp?

Don Wilhelm-3
In reply to this post by Tom Zeltwanger
Tom,

I don't believe there are any explicit instructions - BUT -
If you assemble the KAT100-2 and put it into an EC2 enclosure, the
mating of the KPA100 should be fairly obvious.  There is a header on the
KAT100-2 board to accept the ribbon cable from the KPA100, a 2 pin
header for the RF input connector and another 2 pin header for the DC
power. (BTW, Elecraft offers a kit to change the KAT100-1 to a KAT100-2
which includes the required headers).

For the external connections, you need only 3 - 1) DC power to the
KPA100 (the KAT100 receives its power from the internal cable from the
KPA100.  2) The control cable is just like that one shown in the manual
for the KAT100, and plugs in just like the normal KAT100 cable (that is
where the KIO2 is required in the QRP K2).  3) Use a short piece of coax
with BNC connectors between the QRP K2 (either the ANT OUT jack or with
the KAT2 installed, the ANT1 jack from the KAT2).  The other end of the
coax connects to the AUX RF input jack on the KAT100 rear panel.

That is all there is to it - set the menus just the same as if the
KPA100 was installed internally.

If the KPA100 is installed in the EC2 enclosure without the KAT100, the
situation is only a little different - one must install a BNC input jack
on the EC2 back panel and connect the KPA100 input coax to it (order the
mating header from Elecraft and solder it to the back of the BNC
connector for the easiest installation).  The control cable (just like
the one used with the KAT100) plugs between the KIO2 and the KPA100 AUX
I/O, and of course DC to the KPA100 rear panel power jack.  That is it,
  not really difficult at all.

73,
Don W3FPR

Tom Zeltwanger wrote:

> Don,
>
> I now have all the pieces to do this (remote the KPA100 and KAT100-2). I have
> seen many discussions on this subject, and I know there are directions out
> there for doing this. Is there any one set of directions that is best in terms
> of describing all the steps? I don't necessarily need photos, but I need
> something that covers everything that needs to be done.
>
> 73,
>
> Tom KG3V
>
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RE: Standalone K2 Amp?

Brett gazdzinski-2
In reply to this post by Tom Zeltwanger
I ordered the KPA100, and once built and tested,
will likely order the antenna tuner and remote them
together.

That seems like a slick way to have your qrp cake
and eat QRO also.

The link below has nice pictures!
Its just ins and outs, and the control cable..


http://www.kk7p.com/k2kpa100.html



Brett
N2DTS



> -----Original Message-----
> From: [hidden email]
> [mailto:[hidden email]] On Behalf Of Tom Zeltwanger
> Sent: Thursday, April 12, 2007 8:15 AM
> To: [hidden email]; Don Wilhelm
> Cc: [hidden email]; Fred (FL)
> Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Standalone K2 Amp?
>
> Don,
>
> I now have all the pieces to do this (remote the KPA100 and
> KAT100-2). I have
> seen many discussions on this subject, and I know there are
> directions out
> there for doing this. Is there any one set of directions that
> is best in terms
> of describing all the steps? I don't necessarily need photos,
> but I need
> something that covers everything that needs to be done.
>
> 73,
>
> Tom KG3V
>
>
>
> Quoting Don Wilhelm <[hidden email]>:
>
> > Fred,
> >
> > There are many ways to accomplish that feat.  Most any
> linear amplifier
> > will have 10 to 15 dB gain and will provide 100 watts plus
> with 10 watts
> > input.  You can add Tom Hammond's amp keying kit to your QRP K2 to
> > activate the amplifier.
> >
> > If you do not already have a linear amplifier -
> > The very easiest way is to build the KPA100 and put it into an EC2
> > enclosure.  The KIO2 (or a substitute) must be installed in
> the QRP K2
> > to provide the control signals to the KPA100.
> >
> > If you need a tuner for your antennas, the KPA100 and the
> KAT100-2 mate
> > together in an EC2 enclosure and make a nice package - even
> the KAT100
> > is powered from the DC cable on the KPA100.
> >
> > 73,
> > Don W3FPR
> >
> > Fred (FL) wrote:
> > > I'm sure this topic has come up in various ways in
> > > the past - but here goes again:
> > >
> > > What are the easy ways of keeping one's K2 a base
> > > QRP driver rig - and having a standalone amplifier
> > > next to it on the table?  Nothing power drastic -
> > > but maybe 50 or 100 watts, when needed?
> > >
> > > Fred
> > > N3CSY
> > _______________________________________________
> > Elecraft mailing list
> > Post to: [hidden email]
> > You must be a subscriber to post to the list.
> > Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.):
> >  http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft   
> >
> > Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm
> > Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
> >
>
>
>
>
>
> _______________________________________________
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> You must be a subscriber to post to the list.
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>
> Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm
> Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
>

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Re: Standalone K2 Amp?

w6jd
In reply to this post by Fred (FL)
Fred...just build the KPA100 into an EC-2 enclosure. Neat and easy.

73,
Doug
W6JD

-------------- Original message --------------
From: "Fred (FL)" <[hidden email]>

> I'm sure this topic has come up in various ways in
> the past - but here goes again:
>
> What are the easy ways of keeping one's K2 a base
> QRP driver rig - and having a standalone amplifier
> next to it on the table? Nothing power drastic -
> but maybe 50 or 100 watts, when needed?
>
> Fred
> N3CSY
>
>
>
> ________________________________________________________________________________
> ____
> Looking for earth-friendly autos?
> Browse Top Cars by "Green Rating" at Yahoo! Autos' Green Center.
> http://autos.yahoo.com/green_center/ 
> _______________________________________________
> Elecraft mailing list
> Post to: [hidden email]
> You must be a subscriber to post to the list.
> Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.):
> http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft 
>
> Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm 
> Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com 
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Re: Standalone K2 Amp?

Ken Kopp
And add the KAT-100 tuner into the EC-2, too.

Think of the additional building fun ... priceless. (:-))

73! Ken Kopp - K0PP
[hidden email]




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Re: Standalone K2 Amp?

Tom McCulloch
In reply to this post by Fred (FL)
Me too.

I takes only 2 watts to drive and puts out about 35 watts -- good for psk31 work.
Tom
WB2QDG
k2 1103

-------------- Original message ----------------------
From: [hidden email]

>
> If you are looking for a small external amp for your K2 check out the  
> HFProjects site. I'm using Virgil's little HF-Packer amp and am very satisfied  
> with
> it.
> 73, Steve K8IDN
>
>
>
> ************************************** See what's free at http://www.aol.com.
> _______________________________________________
> Elecraft mailing list
> Post to: [hidden email]
> You must be a subscriber to post to the list.
> Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.):
>  http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft   
>
> Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm
> Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com


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Re: Standalone K2 Amp?

Val-12
In reply to this post by Fred (FL)
Great entry project for homebrewers. 100W one tube amp:
http://www.xs4all.nl/~pa0fri/Lineairs/Frinear150/fri150eng.htm

73, Val LZ1VB

> What are the easy ways of keeping one's K2 a base
> QRP driver rig - and having a standalone amplifier
> next to it on the table?  Nothing power drastic -
> but maybe 50 or 100 watts, when needed?
>
> Fred
> N3CSY

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Re: Standalone K2 Amp?

Tom Zeltwanger
In reply to this post by Don Wilhelm-3
Don,

Thanks for the info - sounds easy. I did buy the KAT100-2, planning on doing
this after hearing all the discussion on the reflector. This will make a nice
pair in the shack, and provide the portability/mobility I want. Hey, I may even
try mobile operation for the first time ever with the QRP rig.

73,

Tom KG3V


Quoting Don Wilhelm <[hidden email]>:

> Tom,
>
> I don't believe there are any explicit instructions - BUT -
> If you assemble the KAT100-2 and put it into an EC2 enclosure, the
> mating of the KPA100 should be fairly obvious.  There is a header on the
> KAT100-2 board to accept the ribbon cable from the KPA100, a 2 pin
> header for the RF input connector and another 2 pin header for the DC
> power. (BTW, Elecraft offers a kit to change the KAT100-1 to a KAT100-2
> which includes the required headers).
>
> For the external connections, you need only 3 - 1) DC power to the
> KPA100 (the KAT100 receives its power from the internal cable from the
> KPA100.  2) The control cable is just like that one shown in the manual
> for the KAT100, and plugs in just like the normal KAT100 cable (that is
> where the KIO2 is required in the QRP K2).  3) Use a short piece of coax
> with BNC connectors between the QRP K2 (either the ANT OUT jack or with
> the KAT2 installed, the ANT1 jack from the KAT2).  The other end of the
> coax connects to the AUX RF input jack on the KAT100 rear panel.
>
> That is all there is to it - set the menus just the same as if the
> KPA100 was installed internally.
>
> If the KPA100 is installed in the EC2 enclosure without the KAT100, the
> situation is only a little different - one must install a BNC input jack
> on the EC2 back panel and connect the KPA100 input coax to it (order the
> mating header from Elecraft and solder it to the back of the BNC
> connector for the easiest installation).  The control cable (just like
> the one used with the KAT100) plugs between the KIO2 and the KPA100 AUX
> I/O, and of course DC to the KPA100 rear panel power jack.  That is it,
>   not really difficult at all.
>
> 73,
> Don W3FPR
>
> Tom Zeltwanger wrote:
> > Don,
> >
> > I now have all the pieces to do this (remote the KPA100 and KAT100-2). I
> have
> > seen many discussions on this subject, and I know there are directions out
>
> > there for doing this. Is there any one set of directions that is best in
> terms
> > of describing all the steps? I don't necessarily need photos, but I need
> > something that covers everything that needs to be done.
> >
> > 73,
> >
> > Tom KG3V
> >
> _______________________________________________
> Elecraft mailing list
> Post to: [hidden email]
> You must be a subscriber to post to the list.
> Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.):
>  http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft   
>
> Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm
> Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
>





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RE: Standalone K2 Amp?

n0so
In reply to this post by Fred (FL)
Fred,

I built a KPA100 amp and a KAT100 tuner in a separate EC2 enclosure. It sits right beside my K2, works great, and can easily be
disconnected to use the K2 without the amp when desired. It's very easy to do, both the amp and tuner were designed with that specific configuration in mind. Here is a website that describes how to do this:
http://www.kk7p.com/k2kpa100.html

73 de Mike , N0SO


-----Original Message-----
    From: "Fred (FL)"<[hidden email]>
    Sent: 4/12/07 6:39:29 AM
    To: "[hidden email]"<[hidden email]>
    Subject: [Elecraft] Standalone K2 Amp?
   
    I'm sure this topic has come up in various ways in
    the past - but here goes again:
   
    What are the easy ways of keeping one's K2 a base
    QRP driver rig - and having a standalone amplifier
    next to it on the table?  Nothing power drastic -
    but maybe 50 or 100 watts, when needed?
   
    Fred
    N3CSY
   
   
           
    ____________________________________________________________________________________
    Looking for earth-friendly autos?
    Browse Top Cars by "Green Rating" at Yahoo! Autos' Green Center.
    http://autos.yahoo.com/green_center/
    _______________________________________________
    Elecraft mailing list
    Post to: [hidden email]
    You must be a subscriber to post to the list.
    Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.):
     http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft   
   
    Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm
   

[Message truncated. Tap Edit->Mark for Download to get remaining portion.]

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Re: Standalone K2 Amp?

Jozef Hand-Boniakowski
With all the talk about Elecraft amps, I have a question.  I have a K1
which I am very happy with.  I plan to take the rig fixed mobile as I
find myself often in situations where I often find myself waiting for
long periods in my car.  I have a 40 and 20 meter mobile antenna coming
and plan to try my luck at a homebrew portable all band antenna.  But, I
would like to be able to run more than 5 watts with the K1.  So then, do
the Elecraft amps lend themselves to such a possibility, or, am I better
of either homebrewing a 30 - 50 or so watt amp, or kit like the HF
Project amp kit.  I must not be the only K1 user looking for higher
output power options.  Thanks.

Jozef WB2MIC

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Re: Standalone K2 Amp?

Don Wilhelm-3
In reply to this post by Don Wilhelm-3
Tom and all,

If you remote both the KPA100 and the KAT100 --

In addition to the 'instructions' below, you may have to change L1 on
the KIO2 AUX2 board (the one that plugs onto the control board) with a
higher current choke.

With both the KPA100 and the KAT100 drawing current from the 12CTRL
line, the sub-miniature choke does not have enough current capacity.
Either the KPA100 or the KAT100 alone will be OK with the stock choke,
but both together may cause the smoke to be released from the choke.

A small ferrite toroid core with 10 to 12 turns on it is a good solution
- the inductance is not critical.  An FT23-43 like that used for the RF
Chokes on the KSB2 board with 12 turns fits nicely.

73,
Don w3FPR

Don Wilhelm wrote:

> Tom,
>
> I don't believe there are any explicit instructions - BUT -
> If you assemble the KAT100-2 and put it into an EC2 enclosure, the
> mating of the KPA100 should be fairly obvious.  There is a header on the
> KAT100-2 board to accept the ribbon cable from the KPA100, a 2 pin
> header for the RF input connector and another 2 pin header for the DC
> power. (BTW, Elecraft offers a kit to change the KAT100-1 to a KAT100-2
> which includes the required headers).
>
> For the external connections, you need only 3 - 1) DC power to the
> KPA100 (the KAT100 receives its power from the internal cable from the
> KPA100.  2) The control cable is just like that one shown in the manual
> for the KAT100, and plugs in just like the normal KAT100 cable (that is
> where the KIO2 is required in the QRP K2).  3) Use a short piece of coax
> with BNC connectors between the QRP K2 (either the ANT OUT jack or with
> the KAT2 installed, the ANT1 jack from the KAT2).  The other end of the
> coax connects to the AUX RF input jack on the KAT100 rear panel.
>
> That is all there is to it - set the menus just the same as if the
> KPA100 was installed internally.
>
> If the KPA100 is installed in the EC2 enclosure without the KAT100, the
> situation is only a little different - one must install a BNC input jack
> on the EC2 back panel and connect the KPA100 input coax to it (order the
> mating header from Elecraft and solder it to the back of the BNC
> connector for the easiest installation).  The control cable (just like
> the one used with the KAT100) plugs between the KIO2 and the KPA100 AUX
> I/O, and of course DC to the KPA100 rear panel power jack.  That is it,
>  not really difficult at all.
>
> 73,
> Don W3FPR
>
> Tom Zeltwanger wrote:
>> Don,
>>
>> I now have all the pieces to do this (remote the KPA100 and KAT100-2).
>> I have seen many discussions on this subject, and I know there are
>> directions out there for doing this. Is there any one set of
>> directions that is best in terms of describing all the steps? I don't
>> necessarily need photos, but I need something that covers everything
>> that needs to be done.
>>
>> 73,
>>
>> Tom KG3V
>>
>
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Re: Standalone K2 Amp?

Mike Harris-9
G'day,

| In addition to the 'instructions' below, you may have to change L1 on
| the KIO2 AUX2 board (the one that plugs onto the control board) with a
| higher current choke.
|
| With both the KPA100 and the KAT100 drawing current from the 12CTRL
| line, the sub-miniature choke does not have enough current capacity.
| Either the KPA100 or the KAT100 alone will be OK with the stock choke,
| but both together may cause the smoke to be released from the choke.

I didn't and its been running for years sans smoke.

Regards,

Mike VP8NO
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Re: Standalone K2 Amp?

Tom Zeltwanger
In reply to this post by Don Wilhelm-3
Don,

Thanks for the heads-up. I am just now building the KIO2 and getting ready to
start the KAT100-2 next. Maybe I will try the tuner with the QRP rig first to
make sure everything is working, then remote the KPA100 with the tuner.

I have an old RF choke core assortment somewhere. I will see if I can't find
something in there that I can use.



73,

Tom KG3V



Quoting Don Wilhelm <[hidden email]>:

> Tom and all,
>
> If you remote both the KPA100 and the KAT100 --
>
> In addition to the 'instructions' below, you may have to change L1 on
> the KIO2 AUX2 board (the one that plugs onto the control board) with a
> higher current choke.
>
> With both the KPA100 and the KAT100 drawing current from the 12CTRL
> line, the sub-miniature choke does not have enough current capacity.
> Either the KPA100 or the KAT100 alone will be OK with the stock choke,
> but both together may cause the smoke to be released from the choke.
>
> A small ferrite toroid core with 10 to 12 turns on it is a good solution
> - the inductance is not critical.  An FT23-43 like that used for the RF
> Chokes on the KSB2 board with 12 turns fits nicely.
>
> 73,
> Don w3FPR
>
> Don Wilhelm wrote:
> > Tom,
> >
> > I don't believe there are any explicit instructions - BUT -
> > If you assemble the KAT100-2 and put it into an EC2 enclosure, the
> > mating of the KPA100 should be fairly obvious.  There is a header on the
> > KAT100-2 board to accept the ribbon cable from the KPA100, a 2 pin
> > header for the RF input connector and another 2 pin header for the DC
> > power. (BTW, Elecraft offers a kit to change the KAT100-1 to a KAT100-2
> > which includes the required headers).
> >
> > For the external connections, you need only 3 - 1) DC power to the
> > KPA100 (the KAT100 receives its power from the internal cable from the
> > KPA100.  2) The control cable is just like that one shown in the manual
> > for the KAT100, and plugs in just like the normal KAT100 cable (that is
> > where the KIO2 is required in the QRP K2).  3) Use a short piece of coax
> > with BNC connectors between the QRP K2 (either the ANT OUT jack or with
> > the KAT2 installed, the ANT1 jack from the KAT2).  The other end of the
> > coax connects to the AUX RF input jack on the KAT100 rear panel.
> >
> > That is all there is to it - set the menus just the same as if the
> > KPA100 was installed internally.
> >
> > If the KPA100 is installed in the EC2 enclosure without the KAT100, the
> > situation is only a little different - one must install a BNC input jack
> > on the EC2 back panel and connect the KPA100 input coax to it (order the
> > mating header from Elecraft and solder it to the back of the BNC
> > connector for the easiest installation).  The control cable (just like
> > the one used with the KAT100) plugs between the KIO2 and the KPA100 AUX
> > I/O, and of course DC to the KPA100 rear panel power jack.  That is it,
> >  not really difficult at all.
> >
> > 73,
> > Don W3FPR
> >
> > Tom Zeltwanger wrote:
> >> Don,
> >>
> >> I now have all the pieces to do this (remote the KPA100 and KAT100-2).
> >> I have seen many discussions on this subject, and I know there are
> >> directions out there for doing this. Is there any one set of
> >> directions that is best in terms of describing all the steps? I don't
> >> necessarily need photos, but I need something that covers everything
> >> that needs to be done.
> >>
> >> 73,
> >>
> >> Tom KG3V
> >>
> >
> _______________________________________________
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Re: Standalone K2 Amp?

Darrell Bellerive-2
In reply to this post by Don Wilhelm-3
On April 12, 2007 06:02 am, Don Wilhelm wrote:

> Tom,
>
> I don't believe there are any explicit instructions - BUT -
> If you assemble the KAT100-2 and put it into an EC2 enclosure, the
> mating of the KPA100 should be fairly obvious.  There is a header on the
> KAT100-2 board to accept the ribbon cable from the KPA100, a 2 pin
> header for the RF input connector and another 2 pin header for the DC
> power. (BTW, Elecraft offers a kit to change the KAT100-1 to a KAT100-2
> which includes the required headers).
>
> For the external connections, you need only 3 - 1) DC power to the
> KPA100 (the KAT100 receives its power from the internal cable from the
> KPA100.  2) The control cable is just like that one shown in the manual
> for the KAT100, and plugs in just like the normal KAT100 cable (that is
> where the KIO2 is required in the QRP K2).  3) Use a short piece of coax
> with BNC connectors between the QRP K2 (either the ANT OUT jack or with
> the KAT2 installed, the ANT1 jack from the KAT2).  The other end of the
> coax connects to the AUX RF input jack on the KAT100 rear panel.
>
> That is all there is to it - set the menus just the same as if the
> KPA100 was installed internally.

With the KPA100 and KAT100 mounted in an EC2, can the cooling fan be turned
off? Is there enough room inside to provide adequate cooling without the
fan? I hate fan noise and the only fan that I have found to be quiet enough
is one with the motor and blades removed and destroyed.


--
Darrell Bellerive
Amateur Radio Stations VA7TO and VE7CLA
Grand Forks, British Columbia, Canada
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