Still blank display
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Thanks for all the help on my blank display problem. I've followed everybody's suggestions. I even resoldered every point. Checked r15&r16. And other things. But when I turn it on I still get the lighted display with no words or anything. And I hear a click a second or two after I turn it on. . .like a relay. I've priced the three biggest chips but it's to much for me to invest for now. The only suggestion I didn't do was to lift the display up to resolder the chip holder that's under it. I'm afraid of breaking the display. Nice looking rig. Sure would like to use it someday. If some of you will recall, I picked this up with the front board and control board complete. I carefully (or so I thought) retraced every step in the manual and am up to phase 1 of the testing and calibration. I made sure every piece was installed correctly (as best as I could being a rookie). I found a couple of things but it was usually just pieces not seated in good, which I fixed.
Roland Whitsitt Stockton, Ca. PS.. At this point I wouldn't mind someone coming over here and helping me get past this wall. thanks _______________________________________________ Elecraft mailing list Post to: [hidden email] You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com |
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In a message dated 18/03/05 17:35:05 GMT Standard Time, [hidden email] writes: Thanks for all the help on my blank display problem. I've followed everybody's suggestions. I even resoldered every point. Roland, Check that you have soldered pin 1 on U1, the display driver on the front panel board. A common mistake is missing this soldered joint. I made the same mistake and it can be seen without removing the display. Fixed mine without removing the display, though does need a steady hand. Bob, G3VVT _______________________________________________ Elecraft mailing list Post to: [hidden email] You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com |
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In reply to this post by Roland Whitsitt
Roland & Elvie Whitsitt wrote:
> Thanks for all the help on my blank display problem. I've followed everybody's suggestions. I even resoldered every point. Checked r15&r16. And other things. But when I turn it on I still get the lighted display with no words or anything. And I hear a click a second or two after I turn it on. . .like a relay. I've priced the three biggest chips but it's to much for me to invest for now. The only suggestion I didn't do was to lift the display up to resolder the chip holder that's under it. I'm afraid of breaking the display. Nice looking rig. Sure would like to use it someday. If some of you will recall, I picked this up with the front board and control board complete. I carefully (or so I thought) retraced every step in the manual and am up to phase 1 of the testing and calibration. I made sure every piece was installed correctly (as best as I could being a rookie). I found a couple of things but it was usually just pieces not seated in good, which I fixed. > Roland Whitsitt > Stockton, Ca. > PS.. At this point I wouldn't mind someone coming over here and helping me get past this wall. thanks > _______________________________________________ > Elecraft mailing list > Post to: [hidden email] > You must be a subscriber to post to the list. > Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): > http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft > > Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm > Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com > As Bob it's probably pin #1 on U1. I had the same problem because I had a cold solder joint on pin#1 of the socket. I fixed mine by using a needle point soldering tip that I purchased with my Hakko 936. I made sure there was NO solder on the tip, boosted the temp to about 800F, and stuck the needle point in the corresponding socket for a 2 count, no longer. This only works if your sure you got some solder on it the first time. -- R. Kevin Stover ACØH K2/100 #4684 Reclaim Your Inbox! http://www.mozilla.org/products/thunderbird _______________________________________________ Elecraft mailing list Post to: [hidden email] You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com |
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In reply to this post by G3VVT
[hidden email] wrote:
> > In a message dated 18/03/05 17:35:05 GMT Standard Time, [hidden email] > writes: > > Thanks for all the help on my blank display problem. I've followed > everybody's suggestions. I even resoldered every point. > > > Roland, > > Check that you have soldered pin 1 on U1, the display driver on the front > panel board. A common mistake is missing this soldered joint. I made the same > mistake and it can be seen without removing the display. Fixed mine without > removing the display, though does need a steady hand. > > Bob, G3VVT > _______________________________________________ > Elecraft mailing list > Post to: [hidden email] > You must be a subscriber to post to the list. > Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): > http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft > > Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm > Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com > I should have added if it wasn't clear that you need to remove U1 before trying the heated socket procedure. -- R. Kevin Stover ACØH K2/100 #4684 Reclaim Your Inbox! http://www.mozilla.org/products/thunderbird _______________________________________________ Elecraft mailing list Post to: [hidden email] You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com |
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In reply to this post by ac0h
R Kevin Stover wrote:
...If some of you will recall, I picked this up with the front board and control board complete. I carefully (or so I thought) retraced every step in the manual and am up to phase 1 of the testing and calibration... --------------------- Was the MCU (U6) installed in that control board when you received it? If so, the entire board needs to be treated as an "ESD Sensitive" device since a number of the pins on U6 are hanging open at the connectors when it's out of the K2. And ESD damaged chip will produce all manner of weird results. Indeed, U6 might not be the only IC exposed to that sort of failure with the board unplugged. A treat the boards just like I would any sensitive chip when they are unplugged. Don't forget, you have Elecraft service to lean on if you choose. Gary has all the resources to check and debug the board. Ron AC7AC _______________________________________________ Elecraft mailing list Post to: [hidden email] You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com |
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In reply to this post by Roland Whitsitt
In a message dated 18/03/05 19:27:35 GMT Standard Time, [hidden email] writes: I should have added if it wasn't clear that you need to remove U1 before trying the heated socket procedure. ------------------------------------------------------- Think I must have removed the chip before soldering the joint, but cannot be sure a year later. Being on the bottom side of the board it is accessible in any case, though could be difficult to refit as the LCD display prevents you supporting the board at the opposite side to apply pressure. As you cannot get at U1 pin 1 on the top side of the board due to the LCD display, without removing this the method is to shave a "V" off the edge of the plastic corner of the socket at pin1 with an Exacto knife or similar to expose a small area of the tinned print of the through hole in the PCB. Take off enough to insert a very small pointed soldering iron on the socket side of the front panel board and solder it quickly. Speed is the secret and small diameter solder/soldering iron bit. I have both so no problem doing the work. Bob, G3VVT _______________________________________________ Elecraft mailing list Post to: [hidden email] You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com |
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